Bon Appétit: European Cuisine and the Politics of Meat

Purpose/Question

The project focused on European cuisine and the sourcing of food to produce it, with a focus on the impact of policy in dictating standard practices in the meat industry. Given the industrialization of food in the United States and the prevalence of concerns for healthful food and the elimination of GMOs and the use of antibiotics, this topic is extremely relevant in modern culture. With the European Union’s Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), its commitment to sustainable food industries and its “Food 2030” project, as well as anti-food waste laws enacted by Italy and France, the meat industries of Nice, France; Rome, Italy; and Athens, Greece offered intriguing foodscapes in which to conduct our research. We chose these cities because the CAP, which emphasizes the importance of safety, quality, and traceability with meat production, has been enacted in each one of them and is the only common policy of the European Union. Additionally, these cities are commonly viewed as producing staples of European cuisine and thus possess significant “culinary capital.” We aimed to produce a final project that examines the extent of food systems’ accountability in these cities to the enacted policies regarding the meat industry. The central question we examined is:

To what extent are the central tenets (safety, quality, and traceability) of the EU’s Common Agricultural Policy reflected in menus, food markets, and advertisements in Nice, France; Rome, Italy; and Athens, Greece?

Methodology

The research for our grant consisted of a policy review, data gathering in each city investigating how food policy was reflected in menus, food markets, and advertisements, and an analysis that synthesized our findings. If part of the goal of the EU’s Common Agricultural Policy is to ensure that certain standards in meat production are being met so that consumers know that what they’re eating is safe and high quality, we hypothesized that such information should be readily available to those consumers. The average consumer, unless they are deeply involved in the processes of meat production, likely is only informed about the meat they are eating through these avenues, so it was essential, in our opinion, that such avenues contain all relevant information.

• Policy Review: We researched and chose three different areas that we looked for in menus, food markets, and advertisements in each city. These areas were chosen based not only on recent policy changes, but also because of their relevance to each city and the viability of being able to determine their trends based on the primary sources we had access to. Specifically in the food markets we visited, we investigated different meat products within the markets, not the markets as a whole. European beef and pork production is regulated by the Common Agricultural Policy - all members of the European Union must comply with these regulations. They are based on three pillars which are the areas we investigated in our research: safety, quality, and traceability. 
  • In terms of safety, the EU specifically aims to protect public health by ensuring: the safety and nutritional value of food and animal feed, high standards for the protection of animal health and welfare, and full transparency in origin, composition, labeling, and use of food.
  • In terms of quality, the EU specifically aims to shape the safety, desirability, and nutritional value of meat products with experience in breeding, production, and processing as well as high awareness of all participants within this food system. Responsibility is a key component of ensuring high quality food products.
  • In terms of traceability, the EU has a basic requirement that the raw material within meat production can be tracked in all stages, from origin through processing and distribution. Manufacturers must keep full lists of suppliers and provide information about which entities it has served as a supplier.

• Reflection of Policy in Menus, Food Markets, and Advertisements
  • While in each city, we chose five menus, two food markets (examining five products within each market), and five advertisements to utilize in our research, based on local recommendations, access, and prevalence in the city. We took photos of every source we found and used translating software (Google Translate and DeepL) to translate each source to English. In analyzing these sources, we utilized the three areas to guide our analysis. We specifically looked for, in determining if the above policy is reflected in such sources, the following information.
• Safety:
  • Does the source disclose what the animal was fed?
  • Does the source disclose in what conditions the animal was raised?
  • Does the source contain animal welfare labeling?
  • Does the source contain GMO labeling?
  • Does the source contain antibiotic or hormone labeling?
• Quality:
  • Does the source present the meat as safe?
  • Does the source present the meat as desirable? 
  • Does the source present the meat as nutritious? 
  • Does the source disclose breeding, production, and processing information?
  • Does the source present the meat as high quality and responsibly curated? 
• Traceability:
  • Does the source disclose the origin of the meat?
  • Does the source disclose the age of the animal when it was slaughtered?
  • Does the source disclose when the animal was slaughtered?
  • Does the source disclose where the animal was slaughtered?
  • Does the source disclose where the meat was processed and prepared?
• We additionally anticipated that, in our research process, we would not have access to all of this information for each source we chose to utilize. Thus, we, for each city, printed versions of these questions in the local languages and asked relevant people such as waiters, butchers, etc. if they were willing to answer the questions in that local language. We prepared a consent form that we printed and asked such people to sign. However, some of this information was difficult to access, and many relevant people did not know the answers (or were unwilling to provide them) to the above questions, which we will elaborate upon in our results.

• Analysis
  • After we gathered this data and were back in the United States, we synthesized the data that we collected to determine an answer to our research question: to what extent is food policy reflected in menus, food markets, and advertisements in Nice, France; Rome, Italy; and Athens, Greece? We aimed to draw conclusions for each city, but also the three combined as they are all under the jurisdiction of the EU and are thus a preliminary reflection on how closely the CAP is being adhered to. Furthermore, we drew basic comparisons to our own experiences in the United States and how food policies and general transparency surrounding meat production were similar or different to that of the European Union, tying what we learned abroad back into our own personal and academic lives.

Results

Nice, France

Our findings unveiled a complex landscape of food labeling practices in Nice, France, which, while not entirely deficient in disclosure, fell short of meeting the rigorous criteria established by the CAP. Furthermore, we found it difficult to verbally acquire information as some local vendors did know the origins of their products, but most did not want to disclose the more intimate details of the processes behind acquiring their meat. 

In examining the five menus from various local restaurants, we noted that they generally disclosed the origin of meat products, albeit often in a cursory manner. For instance, menus would typically indicate whether a dish contained beef, pork, or poultry, sometimes even specifying the region or country of origin. However, this information rarely extended beyond the meat category and other information such as quality was severely lacking. Vital details such as the rearing methods and production practices remained conspicuously absent. This lack of comprehensive information not only leaves consumers in the dark about the quality and ethical aspects of their meals, but also hinders informed choices in line with dietary preferences or sustainability practices.

In the two food markets we investigated, the situation was somewhat different. While the products displayed labels indicating their origin and sometimes even providing a glimpse into their production methods, there was a noticeable lack of uniformity in the way this information was presented. Some vendors were more transparent than others, offering detailed labels that encompassed not only the place of origin, but also information about the farmers and production practices. Others, however, relied on vague terms such as "local" or "traditional," which lacked the specificity needed to make informed decisions about the products' sustainability or authenticity. Additionally, greenwashing was a common practice in these markets, with many meats being advertised as “sustainable” or “pour la biodiversité” with no justification. Furthermore, there was a clear delineation in the packaging between “local” products and those that were more heavily processed and/or industrialized. However, upon looking more closely at these products, we noted that they were often quite similar in their origin and the information provided to consumers. Additionally, many of the meat products in France were given a “nutri-score”, being ranked on a scale from A-E, but upon further research, we discovered that this correlates not to the quality or sustainability of the product, but rather how “healthy” it is deemed. This lack of consistency and clarity in labeling within the same markets underscores the challenges consumers face when attempting to navigate the food landscape.

Our analysis of five food-related advertisements in Nice demonstrated a focus on enticing imagery and enticing descriptions, often drawing upon the region's culinary heritage and the allure of fresh, local ingredients. While these advertisements contributed to the vibrant food culture of Nice, they offered minimal concrete information regarding the actual sourcing, production, or authenticity of the products being promoted. Instead, they relied on the power of suggestion, appealing to consumers' emotions and aspirations rather than providing concrete facts. We noted that this approach can potentially mislead consumers who seek transparency and accuracy in their food choices.

Rome, Italy Our findings in Rome, Italy additionally did not meet the standards that the CAP requires, but also did not entirely lack information disclosing the sourcing and production of the meat. Furthermore, we found it more difficult here to verbally acquire information as most vendors and professionals we talked to in the food industry did not want to disclose information about their products, especially related to their quality and traceability. 

Upon examining the five menus from a diverse array of local restaurants, we observed a consistent pattern of limited information disclosure. These menus typically did not disclose the origin or quality of meat products, but did provide rudimentary information such as whether a dish contained beef, pork, or poultry. Vital details related to the requirements of the CAP, such as butchering and distribution practices, remained absent, as well as the origin of the meat. This deficiency in comprehensive information restricts consumers' ability to make informed choices, hindering their capacity to consider the ethical, environmental, and health implications of their dietary selections.

Our investigation of two prominent food markets in Rome unveiled a notable variability in labeling practices within these settings. While products on display featured labels indicating their origin, and in some cases, partial details about production methods, there was a significant lack of information disclosed, with some products lacking any kind of labeling. However, there were also certain brands found in both of these markets that offered “tracciabilita totale” and did provide the origin, quality, and other relevant information. Unfortunately, such products did not actually provide full transparency in their production methods and generally, products in the markets in Italy lacked information regarding the sustainability of such practices. Certain vendors embraced transparency, offering comprehensive labels that encompassed not only the place of origin, but also information about the farmers and production practices. Conversely, others resorted to vague terminology such as "local" or "traditional," similarly to Nice, which lacked the specificity needed for consumers to assess product sustainability or authenticity. This inconsistency within the same markets underscores the challenges consumers face when attempting to navigate the food landscape effectively.

Our analysis of five food-related advertisements in Rome revealed a strong emphasis on captivating imagery and persuasive descriptions, especially related to Italian culture and cuisine. These advertisements often drew upon the city's rich culinary heritage and the appeal of fresh, locally sourced ingredients, while we found that in many cases, these promises fell short. While undoubtedly contributing to Rome's vibrant food culture, they were lacking in providing concrete information regarding sourcing, production methods, or product authenticity. Instead, they relied heavily on the power of suggestion, appealing to consumers' conceptions of Italian cuisine and in many cases, following the imagery found in meat advertisements in the United States. This approach, while effective in marketing, can potentially mislead consumers who seek factual and transparent information to guide their food choices.

Athens, Greece  Our findings in Athens, Greece were, among these cities, the most lacking in terms of information disclosed to consumers. While there was still limited information provided on the packaging and imagery of certain products, it was far more inconsistent. Furthermore, we found it increasingly difficult to verbally acquire information as most local vendors and/or food industry workers did not know or did not want to disclose the information we inquired about. However, this could have also been due to the city and time that we visited, as we noted that more tourists began to show up during this time period in our research which led to increasingly busy restaurant and market experiences.

Our examination of five menus from various local restaurants revealed a consistent pattern of insufficient information disclosure. While these menus did mention the presence of certain ingredients, they provided minimal additional details related to traceability, sustainability, quality, or production methods. Specifics such as the origin of ingredients, animal husbandry practices, and the use of additives or preservatives were largely absent, more so than in the other two cities. This lack of comprehensive information limits consumers' ability to make informed choices aligned with their values, preferences, and dietary requirements. It also makes it difficult for consumers to support sustainable and ethical food practices.

The investigation of two prominent food markets in Athens also highlighted a deficiency in specificity within labeling practices. While products often displayed labels indicating their origin, these labels seldom offered meaningful insights into the production methods, farming practices, or the sustainability of the products. Furthermore, the traceability information on these labels was not incorporated into the packaging, as it was in the other two countries, but rather was added as a barely visible sticker onto the product. Additionally, ambiguous terms like "local" and "traditional" were frequently employed, consistent with the packaging found in the two other cities, without clarification, leaving consumers in a state of uncertainty about the true nature of the products they were purchasing. However, we did find some products which indicated how certain animals were raised and what they were fed; some packaging disclosed that animals were “grass fed” and/or “free range”. The absence of specific details makes it challenging for consumers to assess the environmental and ethical implications of their food choices.

The analysis of five food-related advertisements in Athens revealed a tendency toward superficial messaging and persuasive imagery, appealing strategically to tourists with signs such as “hot dogs - the best in town”. However, many of these advertisements also focused on appealing to the sensory and cultural aspects of dining, invoking feelings of nostalgia and authenticity related to Greek cuisine. However, they fell short in providing substantive information regarding the sourcing of ingredients, production methods, or the sustainability of the products. Instead, they relied heavily on over-edited images of the products, meat in this case, they attempted to sell, similar to those found pervasive throughout American culture. 

Overall The implications of our findings are multifaceted and underscore the need for improved food labeling practices in these cities and, by extension, across the European Union. First and foremost, the observed lack of comprehensive information disclosure hinders consumers' ability to make informed choices in line with their values, dietary preferences, and ethical considerations. While in some cases, there was limited information available about the traceability, quality, and safety of these products, such information was not complete in adhering to the CAP policies. This gap between consumer expectations and the actual information available necessitates regulatory intervention to ensure greater transparency in food labeling.

Additionally, the lack of consistency in labeling practices within food markets highlights the importance of standardizing information presentation. Uniform labeling standards can enhance consumer trust and facilitate comparisons between products, ultimately contributing to more informed purchasing decisions. The greenwashing and presentation of some meat products as “local” is similar to that present in the United States which misleads consumers and ultimately leads to a poor understanding of which meat products are actually produced in sustainable and ethical ways. Furthermore, while many of the labels disclosed some sourcing information, they were not nearly specific enough, with most of them solely disclosing country of origin or “EU” rather than a region or locality. 

Finally, our examination of advertisements underscores the need for a balance between persuasive marketing and factual information. While appealing advertisements can enhance the culinary experience, they should not compromise the accuracy of information conveyed to consumers. Furthermore, media and advertising present new opportunities to further educate consumers about the quality and origin of meat products. Thus, striking this balance can foster a more informed and empowered consumer base.

In conclusion, our research in these cities revealed that while some information disclosure practices were in place, they often fell short of meeting the stringent requirements of the EU's Common Agricultural Policy. Addressing these shortcomings through regulatory measures and promoting transparency in food labeling is essential to empower consumers and ensure the sustainability and authenticity of the EU’s rich culinary tradition.

Personal Impact

Zoey: Being an avid food lover and environmentalist, I feel that this project allowed me to delve more deeply than ever before into how policy impacts the meat industry. This is a topic that I have been intrigued by and passionate about since I took Tyler Cornelius’s FYP which was all about the American meat industry and how industrialized it has become. I was particularly interested in the environmental impact of the meat industry and how different regulations, such as those regarding Organic produce and GMOs, can work against rather than for environmental goals. Furthermore, with the preliminary research we conducted, I had begun to feel more hopeful about how the United States' food system could change, utilizing the EU’s frameworks as examples. However, upon exploring these European systems more closely throughout this project, I found myself a bit disappointed to discover that while some policies are certainly enacting beneficial change for meat regulation, the majority of them have yet to take effect and/or be seriously enforced. Nonetheless, on a much broader level, this was an incredible experience. I learned so much about European culture, the research process, and how politics translate to our everyday lives. This project has inspired me to continue to research the domestic policy arena, especially as it relates to food, and to continue to explore the food politics of different nations. I am so grateful for this experience. It was educational and entertaining, and I hope to go back to these cities someday to see the sights as well as the progression of these policies!

Kylie: Taking Professor Cornelius’ Food for Thought and Food Fight classes for my FYP transformed the way I understand and select food. Learning about the extreme industrialization of food and the unhealthy crop and livestock maintenance in the U.S., I adjusted my eating habits to better care for myself and the environment. Because this topic was so influential for me, especially coming from a state that produces large amounts of corn and beef, with my hometown being featured in one of the books we read, I became interested in exploring the subject matter in other countries. As a Political Science major and French minor, I was particularly interested in the policy implications across the countries, as well as French culinary culture. In the media I have seen, European cuisine is typically celebrated as being delicious, healthy, well-sourced, and more free from preservatives and GMOs, especially in comparison to American counterparts. Because of this, I was excited to learn more about EU policies such as CAP and explore the foodscapes of Nice, Rome, and Athens, to see how accurate the cuisine and policy assumptions I held were. Although we ended up discovering that food policy was not as thoroughly implemented as we had assumed, the experience was incredibly enriching, helping to enhance my research skills and world knowledge. Since returning to the U.S., I have found myself still in the habit of studying menus and meat advertisements, and I am eager to continue to learn more about food policy here in the States. Given that I hope to go into policy making in some capacity, I look forward to investigating how we can implement more equitable and sustainable food policy moving forward. Overall, this experience was incredibly beneficial to my learning and the enrichment of my study abroad experience, and I am so grateful to Colorado College and the Keller family for this opportunity.

Further Implications

• Policy Reform: The findings of this research can have significant implications for food policy reform. As the study reveals that the EU's Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) is not adequately reflected in culinary practices, it highlights the need for stronger enforcement, clearer communication, or adjustments to existing policies.
• Consumer Awareness: Understanding the extent to which food policy is visible in menus, markets, and advertisements can empower consumers to make informed choices. If consumers are aware of the safety, quality, and traceability of the meat they consume, they can make more conscious decisions about their dietary preferences and support businesses that prioritize these values.
• Cultural Exchange and Learning: This research project also has the potential for cultural exchange and learning. By engaging with locals and exploring culinary practices in different countries, we were able to gain insights into the cultural significance of food and how it is influenced by policy. This cross-cultural understanding, if extended to a broader demographic, can foster greater appreciation for diversity and traditions in food preparation and consumption.
• Business and Market Insights: Businesses in the food industry, both within Europe and beyond, can benefit from the findings. The research reveals gaps where businesses need to improve their practices to meet policy standards and consumer expectations.
• Environmental and Sustainability Considerations: Given the growing concern about the environmental impact of meat production, this research can shed light on how policy influences sustainable practices. Even though the policies were not strictly adhered-to, the principles of  zero waste and environmentally friendly meat production and consumption could inspire other regions (like the U.S.) to adopt similar measures to address ecological challenges associated with the meat industry.
• Global Food Policy Discussions: The implications of this research extend beyond Europe. The findings can contribute to global discussions on food policy, safety, and sustainability. Comparing European practices to those in other parts of the world can provide insights into what works and what can be improved upon, fostering a global dialogue on food regulation and its impact.
• Educational Initiatives: The research can serve as a basis for educational initiatives, both within academic institutions and the broader community. Lessons learned from this project can be integrated into curriculum development, workshops, or public awareness campaigns to educate individuals about the importance of food policy and its role in shaping culinary practices.

In conclusion, this research has the potential to influence policy, consumer choices, cultural understanding, and business practices in the realm of food production and consumption. It can contribute to a more transparent and accountable food industry, promote sustainability, and facilitate meaningful discussions on food policy at local, national, and global levels.