The History of Slavery in the Cultivation of Mac & Cheese
From Elitist Dish to Cultural Staple
Introduction
Undoubtedly, macaroni and cheese is one of the most popular convenience foods in the United States. Given its easy preparation style, simple ingredients, and amazing taste, mac and cheese has become a staple in the average family’s household, finding its way to the dinner table on typical days and special occasions.
Most notably, the dish is extremely popular in Southern states, and has evolved into a sacred and unifying meal among African-American communities. However, one story remains untold when discussing American cuisine: the roles enslaved Africans and their descendants played in shaping the way Americans eat.
Source: Thrillist
Though Thomas Jefferson is praised for “putting mac and cheese on the South’s radar” (Biro)—after bringing the recipe from Europe to Virginia in the late 1700s—the underlying, often discounted narrative lies in Jefferson’s enslaved chefs preparing the meal, often adding their own culinary influences from Africa.
In particular, Jefferson’s enslaved chef, James Hemings, remains “a ghost in America’s kitchen” (McElveen), overshadowed and “still enslaved to the narrative that gives Thomas Jefferson credit” (McElveen) for introducing such foods to the nation.
Overall, my research aims to do three things: 1) explore the history of mac and cheese in the Southern sphere, 2) debunk theories that only credit Jefferson with popularizing the dish, and 3) emphasize its newfound cultural and culinary importance in black culture today.
However, the history of mac and cheese is not that simple.
Source: 'Envisioning the American Dream'
In folklore, the description of Jefferson simply encountering mac and cheese on a trip to Europe is enough to credit him as the sole creator of mac and cheese, and the one who popularized it in the United States. Simplified versions of the history of mac and cheese are extremely popular, as shown in the Youtube video below.
The Secret History of Mac & Cheese in 109 Seconds
Source: UNC Press
Similarly, itching to credit the Jefferson family with all things related to mac and cheese, myths go as far as to credit Jefferson’s daughter, Martha Randolph, with “inventing the dish using Macaroni and Parmesan cheese” (Wright), after becoming the hostess of his palace when his wife died.
However, Jefferson nor his daughter actually did the cooking themselves. In fact, many sources fail to mention that they instructed their enslaved chefs to do it.
Source: Pinterest
In particular, Jefferson’s enslaved chef, James Hemings, is not only uncredited for encountering mac and cheese with Jefferson on his sojourn to Europe, but cooking it in preparation for his elite guests (Edgar).
Mac and Cheese in the Industrial Revolution
Source: Smithsonian Magazine
However, during the Industrial Revolution:
“factory production of macaroni and cheese made the dish much more affordable, accessible, and popular among lower classes” (Edgar).
Even further, the individual ingredients of mac and cheese declined in price, making it a much more feasible meal for impoverished communities. Perhaps, this could be seen as mac and cheese’s mass introduction into general black communities, who were impoverished at the time.
Mac and Cheese in Black Communities Post-Emancipation
Source: History.com
After the Emancipation Proclamation was initiated in the 1860s, macaroni and cheese had new meaning and multiple identities in the black community:
“it became a celebratory dish, a convenient comfort food, and a meal stretcher for impoverished families” (Miller).
For lower-class families, they relied on the government and relief organizations for food, which often provided families with macaroni and “processed cheese, the makings of a quick meal” (Miller).
However, once African-American families began to excel in social and economic class, they began to serve the macaroni and cheese previously exclusive to wealthier dinner tables: “macaroni made from scratch with a roux or supermarket convenience products” (Miller).
Works Cited
Biro, Liz. “Our Coast's Food: Mac and Cheese.” Coastal Review Online, 16 Nov. 2018, www.coastalreview.org/2018/11/our-coasts-food-mac-n-cheese/.
Did You Know: Food History - Origin of "Macaroni and Cheese". Clifford A. Wright, www.cliffordawright.com/caw/food/entries/display.php/topic_id/16/id/105/.
Edgar, Gordon. “A Brief History of America's Appetite for Macaroni and Cheese.” Smithsonian.com, Smithsonian Institution, 29 May 2018, www.smithsonianmag.com/history/brief-history-americas-appetite-for-macaroni-cheese-180969185/.
Fowler, Damon Lee. Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance. Thomas Jefferson Foundation, 2005.
Harris, Karen. “Mac N Cheese: The History Of America's Favorite Comfort Food.” History Daily, 13 Apr. 2019, historydaily.org/mac-n-cheese-the-history-of-americas-favorite-comfort-food.
Matterer, James L. “Makerouns.” Makerouns, 2000, www.godecookery.com/goderec/grec6.htm.
McElveen, Ashbell. “James Hemings, Slave and Chef for Thomas Jefferson.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 4 Feb. 2016, www.nytimes.com/2016/02/05/opinion/james-hemings-slave-and-chef-for-thomas-jefferson.html.
Miller, Adrian. “Cheese IQ: A Side of Soul.” Culture, 2 Aug. 2016, culturecheesemag.com/cheese-iq/side-of-soul.
Twitty, Michael. “The Roots of Black Thanksgiving: Why Mac and Cheese and Potato Salad Are so Popular.” The Washington Post, WP Company, 17 Nov. 2016, www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/mac-and-cheese-potato-salad-and-history-the-roots-of-black-thanksgiving/2016/11/17/f9eff0d8-a866-11e6-8fc0-7be8f848c492_story.html.
