Galette des Rois

Galette des Rois, or ‘king cake’, is a dessert cake that is traditionally eaten every year on January 6th. Similar to a birthday cake, the Galette des Rois is an “invitation to gather and celebrate” (Greenspan 2017). This dish is eaten to celebrate Epiphany which is the day that the newborn baby Jesus was believed to have been visited by the three kings or Wise Men or Magi. Although Epiphany is celebrated by Christians all around the world, Galette des Rois originated in France. It is made up of layers of puff pastry which encase a sweet layer of frangipane or almond-crème filling.

Inside the cake, a fève or a miniscule trinket is usually hidden. Fève translates into ‘fava bean’ which was originally believed to be hidden in these cakes. Nowadays, a porcelain or plastic figurine representing baby Jesus is often put inside the Galette des Rois instead, a shift believed to have occurred towards the end of the 19th century. The person who gets the slice containing the fève gets a crown as well as the right to be treated as king or queen and choose their queen or king for the entire day. But more importantly, the finding of the fève, whether it be a bean or a figurine, is a representation of “the manifestation of Jesus as the Christ” and symbolizes the beginning of new life (Gaudet and McDonald 49). 

Galette des Rois is believed to have originated sometime in the Middle Ages in the 13th or 14th century. In France, it was “customary to bake [this] cake” which was initially known as Gateau des Rois (Cruz 1). Given the celebratory nature of this food, a slice was often saved for any passing guests or the poor. While the cake may have originated during this period, the tradition of fève actually has roots stretching as far as the Roman Empire. During this time, the Romans celebrated a holiday known as Saturnalia which was a festival in honor of Saturn who was the Roman god of agriculture. A major tradition during Saturnalia was role reversal between a master and slave where a king for the day was decided through a cake with a bean in it which symbolized prosperity and fertility (Villeminot 2021). France would be one country in which the aspects of this tradition would be preserved. For example, Besancon or Eastern France monks would put a gold coin in a loaf of bread and elect the chief of their chapter depending on who got the gold in the 14th century. During this period, the royal court also had a similar custom in which whoever got the bean in a cake would have to purchase drinks for the entire assembly. 

Although the classic Galette des Rois is filled with frangipane, there are many variations and regional specialties which exist throughout France. For example, some French pastries sell Galette des Rois with apple, caramel, chestnut, and pistachio fillings. As for regional specialties, one notable one is the Galette des Rois of the southern region of Provence. This cake, still named Gateau des Rois, is an orange-blossom flavored brioche crown which is often seen in Spain and other Spanish-speaking countries. Other versions of the Galette des Rois are also seen in European countries like Portugal, Germany, Switzerland, and Belgium.

In the U.S., the Galette des Rois is known as King Cake and it most notably appears in New Orleans and southwest Louisiana during Mardi Gras season. Mardi Gras is an age old tradition believed to have originated in Medieval Europe, and it spread to the U.S. when French-Canadian explorer Jean Baptiste Le Moyne Sieur de Bienville travelled to New Orleans and celebrated the nation’s first Mardi Gras in 1703. This variation of the Galette des Rois is shaped as a crown, much like the version in France’s southern province, but what makes this particular variation unique is the green, purple, and gold sugar that coats it. These three colors are the traditional colors of Mari Gras, each with their own symbolic meaning. Green signifies faith; purple represents justice and gold symbolizes power. The King Cake’s popularity is considerably attributed to its commercialization by bakeries as well as the influence of transplanted New Orleanians (Gaudet and McDonald 56). Moreover, the food is relatively easy to make and the traditions associated with it are also simple and enjoyable for people of all cultures to enjoy.

The Galette des Rois is also popular further south in Mexico. Known as Rosca de Reyes, the king cake of Mexico is a bread that is shaped like a wreath and is topped with candied fruits. It also often paired with hot chocolate. The people of Mexico also have a tradition of fève; however, it is somewhat different from many other countries’ in that whoever finds the fève has to host a party on Día de la Candelaria or Candlemas on the second of February in which tamales are most notably served. 

Here is a recipe for a traditional Galette des Rois written by Dorie Greenspan who is a columnist for The New York Times Magazine. 

6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature

¾ cup (85 grams) confectioners’ sugar

¾ cup (85 grams) almond flour

¼ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon rum (optional)

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Step 1

Working with a mixer or by hand, beat the butter and sugar together until creamy and light. Beat in the almond flour and the salt. Mix in 1 egg, then the white from the second egg (reserve the yolk). Mix in the rum, if using, and the extract. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Step 2

Mix the yolk with 1 teaspoon cold water; cover and refrigerate until needed.

Step 1

Place one circle of dough on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Spread the filling evenly over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border bare. Press the charm into the filling. Moisten the border with cold water, position the second circle of dough over the filling and press around the border with your fingertips to seal well. Using the back of a table knife, scallop the edges by pushing into the dough (about 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep) every 1/2 inch or so. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Step 2

Heat the oven to 425. Brush a thin layer of the reserved yolk glaze over the top of the galette, avoiding the border (if glaze drips down the rim, the galette won’t rise). With the point of a paring knife, etch a design into the top of the galette, taking care not to pierce the dough. Cut 6 small slits in the top as steam vents.

Step 3

Turn the heat down to 400, and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the galette is puffed and deeply golden. Check after 20 minutes, and tent loosely with foil if it’s browning too much or too fast. Transfer to a rack, and cool for at least 15 minutes (the galette may deflate — that’s puff pastry for you). Serve warm or at room temperature.

Galette des Rois has many variations, but for the sake of this ingredient breakdown, the focus will be on the traditional galette des rois of the northern region of France. This common version is most distinguished by its frangipane filling, a sweet almond cream made by mixing almond flour, butter, sugar, eggs, and salt. Another major component of this cake is the puff pastry which is made with flour, butter, salt, and water. This analysis will be concentrated on two of the main ingredients which compose the galette des rois: flour and sugar. 

According to archaeological evidence, wheat seeds were being crushed to make flour since 6000 B.C. From that time, many variations of flour have been developed such as corn flour, barley flour, and almond flour which is used in the galette des rois. Almond flour is believed to have been invented in the 13th century which is when the galette des rois was first created. This flour is made by blanching almonds in boiling water to separate the skins which are then grinded and sifted to produce a fine flour. In contemporary society, California produces nearly 80% of the world’s almonds and close to 100% of the U.S.’s commercial supply (Almond Board of California 2016). Of the almonds that California produces, 70% of them are exported (Ibarra 2018). The almond industry as a whole “generates more than $21 billion in economic revenue[,] directly creates more than $11 billion of added value [, and also] … generates about 104,000 jobs statewide”, most of which are located in the Central Valley of California, an area that has had a long period of high unemployment (Almond Board of California 2016). The USDA 2012 Agricultural Census also states that “91% of almond farms are family-owned and the majority of growers and handlers are multigenerational” which suggests that most of these farms will be passed down for years to come (Almond Board of California 2016). 

Some of the ethical controversies that have arisen in regard to almond production have to do with its environmental footprint. Many critics argue that almonds are deleterious to the environment as they require a huge amount of water to grow, citing the fact that almond production uses 8% of California’s agricultural water in a state that is notorious for its droughts (Farm Press Staff 1 2015). There are some truths to this argument; however, it is important to put almond’s water footprint in context. While almonds do make up a considerable portion of California’s agricultural water use, it is crucial to note that California does produce the majority of the world’s almonds. Moreover, compared to other Californian food crops, “almonds ranked among the most valuable foods grown in California for their dietary and economic benefits” (Robbins 2021). As mentioned earlier, almonds also contribute lots of revenue and jobs to the Californian economy and are thus a very valuable commodity. 

Much like other cakes, the galette des rois is heavily dependent on sugar. Sugar is one of the world’s oldest goods, first being domesticated in New Guinea during 8000 B.C. From then to today, sugar has undergone significant changes, much of which is documented in Sidney Mintz’s book Sweetness and Power. A major theme that Mintz delineates in this book is the concept of sugar as an exploitative oppressor. Sugar production was initially controlled by the Arabs; however, various European powers such as the French and the British would eventually come to control this industry, the latter certainly being the more dominant of the two. This commodity was initially enjoyed only by the nobility and the wealthy; however, it would eventually become not just a common food but a necessity in the diet of many Europeans during the 18th and 19th centuries. This major growth in the consumption of sugar was facilitated by the product’s cheap and addictive nature which industrial powers exploited to establish a consumptive hegemony. This factor in addition to the fact that sugar production was largely powered by slave labor are what compelled Mintz to label this commodity an exploitative oppressor.

France’s reputation as a leader in sugar production in some ways has remained intact. Of the top sugar producing countries in the world, France is ranked number nine, producing approximately 4,692,000 tons of sugar in the 2020-2021 season (World Population Review 2021). According to a USDA report, “France exports 2.5 million MT worth $1.1 billion of sugar per year on average” (USDA 2020). Although France’s history with sugar largely revolved around cane sugar, the country now primarily produces beet sugar and is the largest producer of this variation of sugar in Europe. This change was induced by Napoleon’s war against Great Britain in the early 19th century which resulted in a British blockade of France’s sugar cane suppliers in the West Indies. Fortunately, a French inventor by the name of Jean-Baptiste Quéruel discovered how to industrially extract sugar from sugar beet in a country with a climate and soil type well-suited for the crop’s growth (USDA 2020). 

With this change, France’s sugar production took a turn for the better, as it shifted from a past of corruption to a future of sustainability. Developments in technology have allowed French beet farmers to drastically reduce their carbon footprint and the sugar industry has now turned its attention to energy optimization. For example, “on the island of Réunion, sugar cane residue has been in use as a fuel to produce electrical and steam power” (Business France 2016). Hopefully, sugar production in France will continue to improve both ethically and sustainably. 

The galette des rois is amazing in the sense that is a food with an attached tradition which has persisted for thousands of years. During the Epiphany season, nearly every single bakery in France sells galette des rois, so only a small number of French people bake this cake at home. This widespread availability of the galette des rois in bakeries; however, is not universal. People living in other countries like the U.S. may have more difficulty finding them so baking the cake at home may be the only option for those wanting to indulge in this sweet dessert.

One major changed that has occurred in the last 50 years in the history of the galette des rois is the commercialization of this cake in stores. In France, there is a major discount store chain called Leader Price which is a subsidiary of the Groupe Casino. Leader Price carries a wide selection of cheap goods such as apparel, home goods, and food. One of their products is the famous galette des rois; however, unlike most of the cakes that are sold in the country, Leader Price’s come pre-packaged. The store offers several different flavors such as the classic frangipane version as well as an apple-flavored one. Another French brand which sells pre-packaged galettes des rois is Brioche Pasquier. These cakes are characterized not by their flavor but rather the fève that is hidden inside. For example, there are superhero-themed ones as well as Disney princess and Paddington bear themed-ones. While the majority of people choose to purchase their galettes des rois from bakeries, some prefer to buy these pre-packaged variations. 

In some ways, these pre-packaged cakes offered by these large French retailers are reminiscent of the prominent pastries sold by the major American food company: Hostess Brands. Hostess is most well-known for its notorious Twinkie, the abnormally yellow icon of American snacks; however, the company also sells a wide range of other pre-packed pastries such as Ding Dongs, Zingers, Ho Hos, and Donettes. The two distinguishing characteristics of these pre-packaged foods are their low prices as well as their low nutritional value. Homemade desserts are by no means healthy; however, these mass-produced pastries are “virtually just sugar, high-fructose corn syrup and white flour, all of which are basically free of any naturally occurring nutrients” in the words of Dr. Cate Shanahan (Lecklitner 2020). 

These nutritional traits on their own are unsettling; however, the more disturbing crux of the matter is whom these foods are most available to. Low-income households have been found to be more likely to “purchase foods of lower nutritional quality [such as pre-packaged foods] compared to higher income households (French et al. 6). Pre-packaged foods’ inexpensiveness and convenience makes for an affordable option for low-income families with scarce resources and choice. To make matters worse, this vulnerability is preyed upon by corporations that create environments in which unhealthy rather than nutritious foods are most readily available. This unfortunate phenomenon is known as a food desert or, more accurately, a food apartheid. 

While it may be extreme to claim that retailers such as Leader Price and Brioche Pasquier are establishing food apartheids in their country, their commercialization of the galette des rois is a reminder of the existence and injustice of food apartheids in this world. The galette des rois and the traditions associated with it may merely occur seasonally; however, the exploitation of low-income communities has been transpiring for many years. It is important that more awareness is spread regarding this issue and to take the necessary steps towards a more just society.