Waterville to Caherdaniel

Sea Synergy

Locally owned and operated  Sea Synergy  is a marine awareness centre. Using a combination of education and activities, their aim is to promote the marine habitats that can be found around the Iveragh coastlines. While many of us stick to terra firma, there is a whole blue world waiting to be discovered in Ballinskelligs Bay and beyond. Whether it’s on or below the water, their staff include marine biologists who reveal some of the secret lives of the aquatic plants and animals of the region. There are activities for all ages, and they also provide educational options for schools and teachers. Contact Sea Synergy via their  website  for more information.

Heritage Trail

On arrival in Waterville, the exceptional views across Ballinskelligs Bay are usually the first thing you notice. The second thing that might catch your eye could be a statue or monument, as many are found dotted around the town. Charlie Chaplin and his family are synonymous with Waterville. They fell for the region on a holiday, leading them to becoming regular visitors over the years. A statue of the cinema icon can be found on the waterfront and it is a popular photo stop for many. An icon in his own right, a statue to the GAA great and Waterville native Mick O’Dwyer can be found nearby. Combining these statues with monuments and landmarks, the  Waterville Heritage Trail  is a perfect way to delve into the history of Waterville, including the  transatlantic cable , coastguard and local figures. 

Amergin

Amergin Glúingel (a bard, a druid and a judge) was among 150 Milesian warriors who sailed to Ireland from Galicia in Spain ca.1286/7 BC to avenge the killing of their kinsman, Ith. They were met upon their arrival at Ballinskelligs Bay/Inber Scéine by the Tuatha Dé Danann who conjured up the violent storm that led to many drownings. Amergin is said to have parted the waves of the bay by reciting the ‘Song of Amergin’. This was regarded as the first poem ever spoken as Gaeilge, therefore bestowing the title of the birthplace of Irish poetry upon Iveragh. 

These stories still resonate in modern day Waterville. You will find the  Eightercua Stone Row  just south of Waterville – an impressive alignment of standing stones - which is said to be the burial site of  Scéine , the wife of Amergin who died at sea before their arrival in the bay.  Ballybrack Dolmen  is a megalithic structure believed to be the burial site of Fial, another of the Mileasians. The  Amergin Poetry Festival  has become a popular annual event in the town and make sure to look for the  Árthach Dána  on the waterfront. The sculpture is dedicated to all the seafaring people that navigated the seas since the Mesolithic. It evokes the tail of Amergin, resembles both a gannet and a prow of a sailing ship, while also functioning as a sun dial. 

What's in a name?

The origin for many townlands and placenames in Ireland can be found when looking at their Irish names. They can reference the historic landscape, the natural features or perhaps the human activities in years gone by. A few examples you will encounter on your walk: Waterville or An Coireán means ‘little cauldron’ in reference to the shape of Ballinskelligs Bay; Derrynane or Doire Fhíonán means ‘Finian’s oak wood’; and Caherdaniel or Caher Dónall refers to the nearby ‘Donal’s stone fort’.

Two others have more interesting backgrounds. Leaving Waterville, you pass through  Baslicon . The origin of this placename is Baisleacán, meaning ‘little church/basilica’, and is linked to the ecclesiastical settlement that was in the area - including a church and children’s burial ground. The high pass of the walk crosses near Coomakista or Com an Chiste which translates as ‘coombe of the cash’. Legend says that French smugglers would hide money in these mountains, the spoils of their illicit trade.  Logainm  is a wonderful resource to discover the origins of other placenames on your travels.

Geology

The cliffs that line Ballinskelligs Bay around Waterville are among the best evidence we have of the huge ice sheets that once dominated Iveragh. During the last Ice Age, glaciers would have flowed down from the mountains, carving and hollowing before them and creating what is now Ballinskelligs Bay. A detour off the trail to Loher Beach gives you a better view of these cliffs which on closer inspection can be seen to be made up of distinct units. In some areas, the deposits appear as an unsorted jumble of pebbles, boulders, and clays. While in other places it is clearly layered and distinctly size sorted. The finer layered material was deposited by meltwater that flowed out from the glacier, while the coarser chaotic material would have been deposited directly by glacial ice. The variation between these two groups suggests that the retreat of the ice sheet was not simple but occurred in several cycles of melting, advancing, and stagnation.

As the Ice Age came to an end and the glaciers began to melt and retreat, the debris that had been picked up and transported by the ice was dumped to the ground forming mounds of glacial deposits. These deposits trapped and dammed glacial meltwater as it drained across the landscape forming a series of lakes in the Cummeragh Valley of which Lough Currane is the largest. Find out more about the geology of Iveragh in our Discover Series  here .

Whales & Dolphins

Some of Ireland’s cetaceans –  whales, dolphins and porpoises  - can be seen from dry land, good news for those of us that lack sea legs! A high vantage point with unobstructed views is always a good start, so this trail ticks that box at several spots. It’s a good idea to bring a pair of binoculars, something on which to take notes, a camera, and off you go! If possible, you should try to take note of: the location you are at, direction and distance you have seen the animal(s), number of animals, duration of the sighting, any obvious behaviours, and environmental factors such as cloud cover, sun glare,  sea state , precipitation and visibility. All this data will help us to keep a record of sightings on the peninsula and to share that information with the local communities and visitors alike. You can submit your sightings through our  online form  and become a citizen scientist. More information on common species of whales and dolphins seen around Iveragh and how to identify them can be found on our  cetacean blogs . 

Ballinskelligs Bay SAC

Leaving Waterville, you will have superb views across Ballinskelligs Bay and Inny Estuary which has protected status as a  Special Area of Conservation . This special status is given due to the unique Atlantic Salt Meadows, Mediterranean Salt Meadows and a species of rare  Petalwort  which are found there. In addition, large numbers of wetland birds over-winter here including  Curlew  (Crotach),  Ringed Plover  (Feadóg chladaigh) and  Oystercatchers  (Roilleach). Look out for large rafts of the black sea-duck  Common Scoter  (Scótar) from October to April – they number 1,000+ and their flocks stretch like oil slicks as they surf the waves rolling into the bay. Read more about our winter wading birds in  Winter on Iveragh  from our  discover series .

Loher Stone Fort

Loher Fort/Cathair an Lóthair is a substantial  ringfort . Excavations in the 1980s revealed the remains of two drystone-built houses and several earlier timber or stone structures. Seven inset arrangements of opposing steps occur on the internal face of the fort’s wall. Faintly visible  rock art  is found on the boulder closest to the entrance.

In 1864, Bishop Charles Graves and his son, Alfred, excavated under a ‘huge cupmarked block’ believed to be the capstone of a tomb. Their report included a drawing of the rock and a description of a narrow passage 7.3m long leading to a subterranean chamber. Fragments of charcoal and charred bone were recovered. The location of this site was unknown until archaeologist Aoibheann Lambe recognised the rock in the drawing as the same cupmarked boulder located 100m downslope from Loher Fort on the summit of a low hillock. According to local lore, tunnels run between the Fort and this hillock.

The above is partly derived from the descriptive data on the  Archaeological Survey of Ireland .

Waxcaps

In autumn and early winter, keep a good look out along the grasslands of the farm sections for  Waxcap  fungi. Coming in bright colours such as golden yellow or a rusty crimson, their glistening or waxy finish gives them their name. Waxcaps are generally found in older grasslands such as those that are not disturbed by ploughing and those that are not fertilized with artificial nutrients. The traditional sheep grazed pastures of Iveragh offer the right conditions for these fungi to grow. They are not considered edible, so they are best left to grow where you find them. Instead, perhaps try to catch their jewel-like beauty or the sun through their gills in a photo to remember your journey on this trail. 

View from the Top

It’s not a bad complaint when you have trouble deciding which way to look on a trail! At the highest points it gets even more difficult as both Ballinskelligs and Derrynane bays reveal their seascapes. Looking to the north, Bolus Head curves away from Waterville, via Reenroe and Ballinskelligs beaches, and leads your eye to the Skellig Islands on the horizon (you can take a closer look at this area by walking the  Skellig Way ). The headland reaching around the southern shore of Ballinskelligs Bay is Hog’s Head – with its Napoleonic lookout tower perched on top.

Turning to Derrynane Bay you will be struck by the number of islands that can be found here. Starting to the north, closest to Hog’s Head, you will find the large Scarriff Island followed by Deenish. Lamb’s Island is close to shore and left of that is Abbey Island with the aptly named Two-Headed behind. Beyond Derrynane beach to the south you will see Lamb’s Head with the Beara Peninsula visible behind on a clear day. Why not take to the water and have a closer look at some of these islands with  Skellig Coast Discovery  or  Skellig Tours .

Dark Sky Reserve

Iveragh is home to some of the darkest night skies in Europe thanks to its remote location and largely rural landscapes. This fact was officially recognised in 2014 when it was awarded Gold Tier status by the International Dark-Sky Association. Stretching from  Kells Bay  to  Castlecove , locations outside of urban lighting reveal the wonders of astronomy in glorious details. Pack a flask of tea, find a cosy spot, lay back and gaze at our Milky Way or perhaps take in a celestial event such as the annual Geminids meteor shower in December.  Kerry Dark Sky Tourism  and  LIVE  teamed up to bring you a fascinating series of webinars which give expert advice on what to see in our night sky and when. There is also insight into some of Iveragh’s nocturnal animals (from bioluminescence to bats and birds) not to mention  archeo-astronomy  (where the worlds of archaeology and astronomy intertwine) and you can find them all  here .

Derrynane Mass Loop

We are very fortunate on Iveragh to have access to a wonderful web of interconnecting walkways taking us from the shores to the uplands and all the habitats in between. With the gracious permission of landowners, we can ramble to our hearts content all year round. The trail from Waterville to Caherdaniel, via the Coastal Route, joins the  Derrynane Mass Loop  for a section that includes a wander through native woodland. The Mass Loop takes in an ancient path that has been used by countless generations – from booleying to butter roads and a well-used route for the surrounding area to visit the mass rock near Derrynane House. We have gathered a wealth of information on the  Mass Loop  and you can find it on our  website  so you can plan your next Iveragh adventure.

Derrynane Woods

Native woodland is rare these days so when you get a chance to explore an area as beautiful as Derrynane Woods it is a real treat for the senses. The autumnal canopy of golden and russet hues, the crunch of leaves under foot, the smell of the soil after rain or the taste of a freshly fallen hazelnut are just some of the joys a woodland can bring. Whether it’s to stop and feel the bark of a tree, inhale the aroma of wild garlic, or immerse yourself in the sounds of the  dawn chorus , woodlands have a wonderful way of helping us slow down from the fast pace of life and recharge the mind. Embrace it.

The seasonal changes in the annual lives of our plants and animals is called phenology and monitoring of these events can help us understand how climate change might be affecting their timings. You can monitor these events too and you can read more about them in our  Watching the Seasons  blog.

Caherdaniel Ringforts

Two ringforts, separated by a stream, are located on the lower south slopes of Cahernageeha mountain, the larger more imposing  ringfort  on the left giving its name, Caherdaniel/Cathair Dónall to the nearest village which was originally located here and is now 0.5km to the east. Cathair Dónall is built on an area of rock outcrop which falls steeply away from the N sector of the site where the enclosing walls survives to a maximum height of 5m. A number of upright slabs and traces of drystone facing occur in the NW quadrant of the interior of the ringfort and may represent the foundations of a hut. Access to a 5m long-entrance passage, 2.5m wide and located at south-west, is blocked. The walls of the smaller ringfort are severely denuded, its interior rubble filled with loose stones and low irregularly shaped mounds. 

The above is partly derived from the descriptive data on the  Archaeological Survey of Ireland .

Caherdaniel Village

This section of the  Kerry Way  ends in  Caherdaniel  village. A small gathering of buildings and homes at a crossroads, it offers a peaceful spot to relax or enjoy a well-earned feed at the  Blind Piper . It is the gateway to Derrynane National Historic Park where you’ll find one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Iveragh. There is lots to do here, from  seaweed tours  to  watersports  or a range of activities with  Wild Derrynane . And of course there is  Derrynane House and Gardens  with the adjoining  Ahamore Tea Rooms . If starting in Caherdaniel perhaps consider leaving your car at Derrynane House as parking around the village is minimal.