John Kempe, 1300s

Flemish weavers in England

King Edward III of England wanted English weavers to produce the quality of cloth that the Flemish weavers produced and to this end he encouraged those ‘Flemings’ who were fleeing French rule to come to England with ‘all their implements of their craft, their looms and their dyes’ and ‘teach the people of this land to work the cloth'. ¹  Letters of Protection were granted to those immigrants, like John, with specific skills.

Royal Protection

John Kempe received a Letter of Protection from the King in 1331, enabling him to trade freely in England. ²  He was granted English citizenship in 1356 which meant he could join the newly formed Weavers Guild, an association for skilled artisans, and this allowed him to retail in London. ³ 

Flemish cloth was much softer than the English cloth and the dyeing techniques more advanced. It was hoped that these skills would be shared with English weavers. However, tensions developed between immigrant and native weavers in London and it is possible it was at this time that John looked for somewhere more conducive to expanding the industry.

 _{Image description: King Edward III, who invited the Flemish weavers to England. William Bruges.}  

Relocation to the North

John is credited with establishing the cloth industry in Kendal in Westmorland (today Cumbria). His decision to move north could have been influenced by the fact that the area was perfect for sheep and therefore cut out the need to transport fleeces to London for weaving.

Development of the woollen industry

Kendal’s woollen trade developed rapidly during the 14th century while John is thought to have been there. The skills of the Flemish weavers in producing coloured or ‘rayed’ (striped) cloth was both envied and admired by British weavers. It is believed that the colour ‘Kendal Green’ originated from the town. There is a reference to the colour in William Shakespeare’s play, Henry IV. Part 1, ii, 4:

How couldst thou knowest these men in Kendal green, when it was so dark thou could not see thy hand.

It is probable that the cloth made in Kendal was transported and sold in London and beyond. We know for certain that in 1362, John, together with another man, were caught sending cloth to Flanders without paying custom tax at a time when cloth produced in England was officially banned from Flanders. ⁴ 

It appears that John traded for many years in England and was successful in establishing roots in Kendal and the surrounding area, leaving a legacy until the present day.

John’s legacy

Although some question if the story of John Kempe is a myth, ⁵  historical records do show there was a John Kempe in England and specifically Kendal at this time. John’s daughter, Marguerite, married Thomas, Baron of Roos of Kendal Castle, which suggests that John had gained local status. ⁶  

A reference to the Le Fleming family of Rydal Hall, and a letter to a Dr Kempe on 20 October 1671 in papers at Sizergh Castle in Westmorland hint at possible descendants of John or his compatriots who settled in the area. ⁸  At the end of the 18th century a John Kemp (the e had gone) was a landowner under Sizergh in the township of Helsington and on 1 June 1815 he got a share of an enclosure. ⁹ 

There is much to research further to find out about John and his legacy in the North West of England.

 _{Image description:   Kendal Castle, where John’s daughter lived.  Colin Park .}