Exploring Puget Sound's Kelp Forests

AN EXPEDITION TO SPOTLIGHT KELP FORESTS AS A VITAL PART OF OUR MARINE WATERS

“I can only compare these great aquatic forests with the terrestrial ones in the inter-tropical regions. Yet, if... a forest was destroyed, I do not believe nearly so many species of animals would perish as would here, from the destruction of kelp.” Charles Darwin, 1845

Our Forest Below

Beneath the water’s surface, a world of kelp pumps life into Puget Sound. Over 20 native kelp species occupy the intertidal and subtidal depths (1), helping to foster the rich marine biodiversity and ecosystem health that supports our Pacific Northwest way of life, and our coveted seafood cuisine. Similar to a terrestrial forest, this diverse assemblage of understory and canopy kelp species creates a living, 3-dimensional space and complex ecosystem - or an “underwater forest.”

Bull kelp (Nereocystis luetkeana) is an iconic species that helps form these extensive underwater forests in nearshore, rocky habitats. As an annual macroalgae and one of the primary species of canopy-forming kelp, bull kelp emerges each spring and grows to create forest-like structures that can stretch up to 40 meters (2). The bulb and blades reach toward the water’s surface and a holdfast remains anchored to the sea floor. Just like the forests above, our kelp forests below are vital -- not just as one of the most ecologically productive habitats on the planet (1) -- but as lifelines for crab, salmon, killer whales, and us.

Bull kelp (Nereocystis luetkeana) illustration by Andrea Dingeldein

Collective Loss

Very little is known about changes in distribution and abundance of many understory kelp species(2), but significant declines of bull kelp have been documented in parts of Puget Sound through ongoing surveys, anecdotal evidence and observations. For example, historical kelp beds along the shores of Bainbridge Island have been lost entirely (1), and upwards of 80% of this key habitat has been lost in South Puget Sound (3). To build support for kelp conservation and recovery, we need to connect the dots between kelp and us. Communities and cultures of the Pacific Northwest have been nurtured by healthy marine systems for a long time; when a foundational piece of our social and ecological systems begins to unravel, we need to join hands and take a leap toward collective action.

Our story begins with the forest below...

with small critters that feast...

and feast...

...and seek refuge in the fronds.

Some end up as an appetizer for a black rockfish…

or a chinook salmon hunting along the fringe…

destined to land on our grill...

and into our bellies.

Other times, kelp is the main dish.

So, you might not realize, that kelp is part of us;

It is in us.

Kelp Lifeways

Teeming with abundance, these living, food-generating marine structures have nurtured indigenous cultures and coastal communities. Kelp forests, and the abundance of food they help generate, are part of the lifeways for Salish Sea Tribes and First Nations to this day.

Follow the Feast

The foods found in and around kelp forest habitat -- such as urchins, crab, and fish -- have been key cultural resources, informing a wealth of ecological knowledge and hunting and harvesting practices (4). Foods such as pacific herring roe, which is harvested from floating kelp fronds, and salmon, which hunt for smaller prey in kelp forests, still support Pacific Northwest Tribal communities today. Following the retreat of the last glacier, kelp that once grew densely along the west coast of the Americas may have supported the migration of early humans. According to the “kelp highway hypothesis”, the first peoples likely hunted, fished and sheltered in the floating kelp forests, following the abundance of marine life and food sources west across the Bering Strait and south along the coast of the Americas (4;5).

The shaded area represents the Kelp Highway, or areas along the Pacific Rim where kelp forest ecosystems are presently found. (a) Derivative drawing from “The kelp highway hypothesis: Marine ecology, the coastal migration theory, and the peopling of the Americas” by Jon M. Erlandson, Michael H. Graham, Bruce J. Bourque, Debra Corbett, James A. Estes & Robert S. Steneck, published in the Journal of Island and Coastal Archaeology.

Bull Kelp Put to Good Use

Bull kelp has played a particularly prominent role in traditional ecological knowledge and technology. The versatile structural material of bull kelp - including the holdfast, stipe, float, and fronds - has been used by Pacific Northwest Tribes to create hunting and fishing tools, food storage containers and other household items, and toys and games for both children and adults (4).

Bull kelp stipes were used as water conduits, or hoses (6). Bulbs were cut to make a convenient funnel (7). Together, kelp bulbs (or floats) and stipes were utilized for long-term storage and long-distance trade of eulachon, seal, dogfish and whale oils (8), and later molasses and spirits (9).

Held Fast in Living Traditions

The close relationship between kelp-based coastal ecosystems and Pacific Northwest Tribes continues to be conveyed through important teachings and traditions that elders pass along to younger generations. Various Coast Salish groups tell a story about a woman who marries a man of the sea to ensure that her people have continued access to the sea’s bounty (3;10;11;12).

In a Samish version, Ko-kwahl-alwoot's gradual transformation into a sea-being prevents her from visiting her family, but when the Samish see her hair – blades of bull kelp – moving with the tides near Rosario Beach, they know she still provides for them (12).

Maiden of Deception Pass.  Image  courtesy of Maureen Murphy via ( CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 ).

Learn more about The Maiden of Deception Pass and Samish tradition  here .

Additional resources about  “The Cultural Importance of Bull Kelp for Pacific Northwest Tribes” can be found in Appendix B of the Puget Sound Conservation and Recovery Plan - accessed  here 

Cultural significance and uses are always best understood through contact and communication with the tribe(s).

Making the Kelp Connection

Kelp is a part of us; it is in us. From the food we eat as part of our rich Pacific Northwest cuisine, to the shores and waters we occupy and navigate, these iconic species floating just below the surface are a vital connection to our Puget Sound foodways.

The Food Factory

Kelp forests play a fundamental role in fueling marine and even terrestrial ecosystems. Starting at a molecular level, kelp absorbs carbon dioxide from the water during photosynthesis (13), converting it into carbohydrates. This converted carbon - i.e. kelp tissue - goes on to fuel food webs near and far. Kelp can be traced all the way to our plates through the fish, crab, and shellfish we rely on for food (1;14).

As kelp matures and grows, kelp blades release dissolved organic matter (DOM) that is consumed by bacteria and plankton, which in turn feed our favorite filter feeders - such as oysters, clams and mussels (13;14;15;16).

A bed of native olympia oysters. Image courtesy of Betsy Peabody.

The tips of the kelp blades also naturally erode - leaving small particles, called kelp detritus, to float away (13;17).

Kelp detritus. (Left) photo courtesy of Jenn Burt; (Right) photo courtesy of Puget Sound Restoration Fund.

Kelp detritus is a primary food source for a large community of marine invertebrates including shrimp, copepods, amphipods, and isopods, many of which are important prey for pacific herring, other forage fish, juvenile salmonid, and young-of-year rockfish (1;13;14;16).

When kelp naturally breaks away and begins to decompose, the material drifts to the bottom and serves as a seafloor buffet for a variety of benthic invertebrates and scavengers, such as crabs, sea urchins and abalone (13;18).

(Left) A northern kelp crab feeds on kelp.  Image  courtesy of J. Maughn ( CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 ); (Right) A pinto abalone grazes along the seafloor. Photo courtesy of Josh Bouma.

Many of these smaller kelp connoisseurs are food sources for highly-coveted recreational and commercial fish species, such as salmon and lingcod (19;20).

Lingcod caught in Puget Sound. Photo courtesy of Craig Williams.

Kelp detritus that drifts further away provides food to adjacent marine food webs and deep-water habitats far from the nearshore (1;17).

Detached kelp material also washes ashore to create what are called “kelp wracks” along the high-tide mark, where insects and other terrestrial invertebrates, along with scavengers such as birds and raccoons, enjoy a shoreline feast before carrying the kelp carbon onward into upland food webs and beyond (1;21).

Kelp Wrack. Image courtesy of Timothy Vollimer.

The Ecosystem Engineer

Anchored to the seafloor and reaching to the water’s surface, kelp forests form a three-dimensional, structured habitat. This living habitat is critical marine infrastructure supporting the extraordinary biodiversity that defines the Puget Sound waters we know, love and depend on.

Pacific herring, a forage fish that many larger species seek for food, spawn directly on the floating and submerged kelp fronds (1). The tiny eggs are a delicacy for birds and other prey; after hatching, the larvae remain in nearshore waters close to their spawning grounds to feed and grow in the protective cover of shallow water and kelp structure (13;22).

Herring eggs deposited on seaweed.  Image  courtesy of Washington DNR ( CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 ).

Out-migrating juvenile salmon seek shelter in the kelp canopy and shallows, while adult salmon - including coho and chinook - patrol the fringe in search of prey (1;13)

A Chinook salmon swims past kelp fronds. Image courtesy of NOAA.

Endangered rockfish - like the bocaccio - rely on this critical nursery habitat that allows them to feed in relative safety from predators (1;13).

Juvenile Bocaccio rockfish. Image courtesy of Adam Obaza,  Paua Marine Research Group .

Birds and marine mammals look to these food-filled kelp forests for their next meal, or sometimes even for a nap.

Newborn harbor seal napping on a bed of kelp.  Image  courtesy of NOAA Fisheries ( CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 ).

Even Puget Sound’s iconic Southern Resident killer whales know to hunt for prey in and along floating kelp beds.

A Killer whale swims alongside bull kelp. Image courtesy of Melisa Pinnow.

The "Placemaker"

From the kelp carbon in the fish and shellfish we eat, to kids playing on the beach with bull kelp stipes, these marine forests are vital to our food chain, and central to our local culture and identity. In other words, kelp is integral to our sense of place.

Many fisheries we depend on are tied to the health of kelp forests. And anyone who fishes knows that kelp forests are where the salmon and rockfish can be found.

“I picked a slot between rafts of kelp and cast out...when I was just about to lift it out of the water to try another cast, the water exploded...my Rotator headed for Port Townsend in the mouth of yet another magnificent coho.” - A Puget Sound Angler

The dense beds of floating kelp fronds can help to protect our beaches and shorelines by absorbing wave energy that can cause coastal erosion and subsequent beach loss (1).

Kelp beds can absorb wave energy, subsequently reducing damaging waves that cause beach erosion. Base  image  courtesy of Caitriana Nicholson ( CC BY-SA 2.0 ).

Through photosynthesis, kelp forests fix or store more excess carbon than tropical rainforests, seagrasses, and even coral reefs. In Washington state alone kelp forests uptake 27 to 136 metric tons of carbon per day, which is equivalent to the emissions of approximately 2,000 to 10,500 vehicles per year (1).

KelpKelp forests "fix" - or store - excess carbon, helping to improve ocean health. Base image courtesy of Neil Banas.

The Kelp-less

Kelp forests are an essential part of our shore-scape and foodways. Imagine Puget Sound without kelp. Kelp loss could mean food web shifts, habitat loss, and a decline in fisheries (23). Further declines in salmon could presage additional orca declines. Other qualitative shifts could mean never again having the opportunity to kayak through undulating bull kelp fronds. Never again seeing this iconic ribbon of forest skirting the contours of the nearshore. What would Puget Sound without kelp mean for you?

Loss & Uncertainty

There is growing concern that we are losing bull kelp as an iconic habitat and ecological lifeline in parts of Puget Sound. Diverse groups have raised alarms about major bull kelp declines in the San Juan Islands and in Central and South Puget Sound (1). 

Memories of Historic Abundance

Traditional and local ecological knowledge from Tribes, historical charts and surveys, and observations from local residents tell a story of past abundance of bull kelp along our shores and subsequent loss (1). These "snapshots in time" provide helpful insight into kelp trends, establish historical benchmarks for current declines and help guide restoration efforts.

For example, a 1868 chart (to the right) shows thick bull kelp beds off Point Jefferson, named Doe-Kag-Wats (“place of deer”) by the Suquamish (24). Today, it is a site of a pilot bull kelp restoration project by Puget Sound Restoration Fund.

Comprehensive Decline

While kelp forest presence is highly dynamic over time, Sound-wide surveys - like those to the right - highlight dramatic downward shifts in bull kelp presence between 1978 and 2000.

Understanding Our Loss

Though some floating canopy kelp forests (Nereocystis and Macrocystis) appear to be doing well along the western Strait of Juan de Fuca and parts of the San Juan Islands, the Samish Indian Nation estimates a 36% decline - a loss of 305 acres - in bull kelp forests around the San Juan Islands between 2006 and 2016 (25). Dive deeper into bull kelp loss in the San Juan Islands  here .

While the total floating kelp canopy area along the eastern Strait of Juan de Fuca has been stable over the last 30 years overall, canopies [are highly variable from year to year and] appear to be contracting in some areas. (26;27).

A 1912 survey identifies floating kelp near Port Townsend. Chart courtesy of: Cameron FK, 1915. Potash from Kelp. U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 122 p., [20] leaves of plates; atlas (54 maps (some folding); 73 x 57 cm).

In the Central Sound, bull kelp beds around Bainbridge Island have disappeared entirely, with the last forest off Wing Point blinking out in 2015 (1).

A 1901 nautical chart illustrates floating kelp off Wing Point on Bainbridge Island. Chart courtesy of NOAA's Historical Map & Chart Collection.

In the South Sound, the linear extent of bull kelp between 2017 and 2018 was 80% less than the cumulative total of all observations from the last 145 years (3). Squaxin Island is home to one of the last remaining persistent bull kelp forests in the South Sound; but a recent study shows that it, too, is in decline. Following an increase in water temperature caused by a marine heatwave in 2014, the study outlines the visible loss of the bull kelp forest in both total extent and depth distribution. Some areas that experienced similar levels of decline rebounded quickly, while others (like Squaxin Island) have yet to recover. Other bull kelp forests disappeared entirely and have not returned.

Squaxin Island is home to one of the last remaining beds in South Puget Sound. A study by Washington’s DNR Nearshore Habitat Program between 2013 and 2020 shows the kelp forest contracted in both total extent and depth distribution, and has yet to rebound. Graphic courtesy of DNR Nearshore Habitat Program.

Explore further data and trends of South Sound bull kelp decline  here .

Uncertainty Ahead

Though definitive causes for such unprecedented declines are uncertain and vary by geographic location, researchers and scientists are making active strides to understand the kelp loss in Puget Sound. Fortunately, bull kelp has not disappeared entirely from any of Puget Sound’s basins. It still remains common in areas with intense currents and water mixing, such as the Admiralty Inlet and Tacoma Narrows, shown in the image below. Areas with similar conditions may serve as refuges for bull kelp from some of the stressors that are leading to losses in other areas of Puget Sound (3;28).

Historical and recent bull kelp distribution in South Puget Sound. Blue lines delineate shorelines where bull kelp occurred historically but has not been observed recently (all records since 1870s). Pink lines delineate shorelines where bull kelp occurred historically and persisted in most recent surveys (2017-2018). Graphic courtesy of DNR Nearshore Habitat Program.

Research indicates bull kelp forest decline is likely due to the following stressors and their interactions:

  • Deteriorating water quality, which can mean excessive pollutants and nutrients from runoff (1)
  • Increasing seawater temperatures (1)
  • Increased grazing of kelp by invertebrates due to shifts in the marine food web. For example, urchins can “clearcut” entire kelp forests if left unchecked by predators (1).
  • Competition from invasive seaweeds, such as Sargassum (Sargassum muticum)  (1)
  • Increasing water turbidity and sedimentation, which can inhibit photosynthesis (1)
  • Compounding effects of multiple stressors (1)

A kelp crab on the tattered remains of bull kelp near Squaxin Island in South Puget Sound. Blade loss may be due to high temperatures or grazing kelp crabs. Image courtesy of Helen Berry, Washington Department of Natural Resources Nearshore Habitat Program.

Climate change further exacerbates these significant challenges and uncertainties. Circling back to the heatwave of 2014, evidence suggests that the combination of rising water temperatures and seastar wasting disease resulted in the decimation of bull kelp forests along the Northern California Coast (1;29). Free from predation by sunflower seastars, sea urchin populations exploded, and their unchecked grazing has created "urchin barrens” almost devoid of bull kelp and other kelp species. These cascading effects not only impact the marine ecosystem, but also the associated fisheries that communities depend on (29).

Leading the Charge

Despite the uncertainty, Tribes, agencies, NGOs and researchers dedicated to the health and resilience of Puget Sound came together to promote change and lead in taking steps towards kelp recovery. In 2020 this partnership completed Puget Sound Kelp Conservation and Recovery Plan.

The Kelp Plan

 The Puget Sound Kelp Conservation and Recovery Plan  was released, with over 15 tribes, agencies, NGOs, and other entities signing onto a shared vision for thriving kelp forests in Puget Sound.

The Plan envisions “revitalized Puget Sound kelp forests stretching from Olympia to Vancouver, B.C. providing economic, recreational, and ecological benefits to all living things that call these shores and waters home (1).”

The six strategic goals are highlighted below:

  1. Understand and reduce kelp stressors
  2. Deepen understanding of the value of kelp to Puget Sound ecosystems and integrate those insights into management
  3. Describe kelp distribution and abundance trends
  4. Designate kelp protected areas
  5. Restore kelp forests
  6. Promote awareness, engagement, and action from user groups, Tribes, the public, and decision-makers.

To fully immerse yourself in the Kelp Plan, please click  here .

In 2021, the Washington State Legislature authorized $1,493,000 in new funding to implement Plan priorities and jumpstart coordinated kelp ACTION.

The Expedition

A July 2021 expedition to explore the kelp forests in Puget Sound gives us a chance to see kelp forests up close, breathe life into the Kelp Plan and get to work. The expedition is designed to catalyze a broader effort to protect and restore our local kelp forests.

Beginning July 15th, 2021, the expedition will:

  • Spotlight the importance of kelp forests.
  • Showcase coordinated actions across Tribes, agencies, NGOs and researchers.
  • Facilitate collaborative science and research to fill information gaps.
  • Share knowledge about kelp forests.
  • Celebrate the role of kelp forests with communities throughout Puget Sound.

During the expedition, partners and work groups are visiting key kelp forests and other significant locations throughout Puget Sound to conduct research and mapping activities, and participate in two gatherings to build community, awareness, and support for kelp forests.

See below for expedition details, key collaborators and partners involved.

Connect via  Instagram  and  Facebook  for live updates along the way.

Freshwater Bay

Day 1 of the expedition begins in the traditional waters of the S’Klallam people, particularly those of the  Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe , at Freshwater Bay in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Freshwater Bay is home to one of the largest kelp forests in the area, which will serve as a fabulous convergence point as we launch the expedition and its many activities:

    • Volunteers from the  Clallam County Marine Resource Committee  (MRC) will be aboard their kayaks, monitoring the kelp bed from the surface, as part of an  impressive community science effort  led by the  Northwest Straits Commission  that plays an important role in our regional understanding of bull kelp. 
    • As the MRC kayakers survey the kelp bed, they will likely come across members of Washington Department of Natural Resources’ (DNR)  Aquatic Assessment and Monitoring Team (AAMT) . On kayaks and on their DNR research vessel (the R/V Neap), the AAMT will be measuring water quality parameters inside and outside of the kelp forest, assessing kelp photosynthetic performance, and collecting video at drop camera stations throughout the bed. 
    • DNR’s AAMT is also collaborating with  Dr. Jacqueline Padilla-Gamiño , professor at the University of Washington’s (UW) School of Aquatic and Fishery Sciences. Jackie is a treasured collaborator of PSRF’s on  pinto abalone recovery , so the chance to have our kelp universes align through the expedition has been serendipitous! Jackie will be aboard the R/V Neap, working with AAMT to collect samples to understand the extent to which micro plastics adhere to kelp blades, where they may be consumed by aquatic organisms. 
    • From micro to even more micro, we are thrilled that  Dr. Cathy Pfister , professor at the University of Chicago and powerhouse kelp scientist, and her team have woven the expedition into their plans. Cathy and her team of undergraduates will be sampling kelp to understand carbon fixation and dissolved organic release, quantify carbon and nitrogen content, assay microbial function on the blades (to test if microbes on the surface help kelp access ammonium), and preserve samples for future microbe metagenomics and gene expression analyses. The work on the expedition will complement the work Cathy and company do in kelp beds off of Tatoosh Island, allowing for comparisons across sites. 
    • Working alongside Cathy at the surface and on shore, and also underwater will be our very own  PSRF Habitat Team , busy with a host of activities. We will begin comparison of kelp in each bed along the expedition route through morphometric measurements and photo documentation. At the surface, we also will be collecting bull kelp reproductive material (i.e., sori) to add to a library of kelp gametophytes - a seed bank of sorts - for cultivation, genetic analysis, and restoration projects. This seed bank is one we have been developing with invaluable support from  Dr. Filipe Alberto , professor at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee. We’ll also be collecting kelp blade samples for Dr. Paul Chittaro, of  NOAA’s Northwest Fisheries Science Center , to support his research using carbon and nitrogen isotopes to track kelp through the food web (see “Relative Importance of Pelagic, Kelp Forest and Eelgrass Habitats to Rockfish” section  here ). Underwater, our divers will be scoping sites for a reciprocal transplant experiment that we hope to conduct in partnership with Filipe, to better understand the underpinnings of bull kelp population genetic structure. The team will also most certainly be collecting kelp to incorporate into gatherings along the route and for kelp pressings to memorialize the event.
    • The PSRF team will also be conducting a biodiversity survey to characterize the fishes, invertebrates, and algae associated with the kelp forests, as this information is critical for crafting targets for conservation and restoration. Freshwater Bay is just one of 10 index sites that PSRF and partners, including the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, USGS, Samish Indian Nation, Smithsonian/Marine Global Earth Observatory, Squaxin Island Tribe, and DNR are establishing in the region as a way to kickstart coordinated, systematic underwater monitoring of kelp forests, which has not yet been done here. We are fortunate to be able to draw on expertise in broad-scale kelp forest monitoring from our kelp-centric colleagues at  Reef Check’s Kelp Forest program  in California and Oregon, and count ourselves lucky to have Dan Abbott of Reef Check joining the team as a guest diver for several days on the expedition. 

    Finally, turning our eyes skyward, Dr. Micah Horwith and Dr. Christopher Krembs of Washington State Department of Ecology will be obtaining high-resolution aerial photo observations as part of the  Eyes Over Puget Sound program  – through which we can glean a monthly snapshot of the health of Puget Sound. From above, they will capture not only the expedition activities, but the many recreational fishers collected just to the west of Freshwater Bay. There, fishers will be congregating around kelp forests in search of an iconic, kelp-associated treasure - King salmon.

For the duration of the expedition, the incomparable team of Florian Graner and Gina Truesdell from  Sealife Productions , will be alongside the many teams on and underwater. Florian and Gina are bringing their deep knowledge and experience to the development of a short video about the expedition.

Smith Island and North Beach

Day 2 brings us to the edge of Puget Sound, inasmuch as there is a line between the Sound and the Strait. On this day, we visit the largest persistent bull kelp bed in Washington State at DNR’s largest aquatic reserve -  Smith and Minor Islands Aquatic Reserve . We also spend time in the rich kelp bed at North Beach, adjacent to Fort Worden in Port Townsend.

  • At Smith Island, the team will include Birdie Davenport, DNR Aquatic Reserves Manager, and Helen Berry, DNR  Nearshore Habitat Program  Manager and regional kelp expert. Birdie will share the story of the aquatic reserves and their role in DNR’s stewardship of Washington’s aquatic lands. Helen, a mainstay of our region’s kelp research and monitoring efforts, will speak to the value of long-term mapping, such as that at Smith Island.
  • State Senator Christine Rolfes, who championed recent kelp funding from the Legislature, and Washington Fish & Wildlife Commissioner Lorna Smith will explore the kelp forest offshore of Smith Island either by kayak or snorkel.
  • Meanwhile, members of  DFW’s  Shellfish Dive Team and PSRF’s pinto abalone recovery team will be diving, in search of endangered pinto abalone. Abalone play a key role in facilitating kelp forest succession, as the abalone graze rocky reefs, creating openings for kelp to establish. The divers will be collecting genetic samples from remaining wild abalone. They will also be scouting for sites to place abalone produced by PSRF at the  Kenneth K. Chew Center for Shellfish Research and Restoration  (the conservation hatchery that PSRF operates at  NOAA’s Manchester Research Station ), and raised at the Chew Center, and at satellite nurseries at the  Port Townsend Marine Science Center  and the  Seattle Aquarium .

A survey by Rigg in 1911-1912 identifies floating kelp off Smith Island. Chart courtesy of: Cameron FK, 1915. Potash from Kelp. U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 122 p., [20] leaves of plates; atlas (54 maps (some folding); 73 x 57 cm).

  • At North Beach, DNR’s AAMT and Dr. Padilla-Gamiño will perform the same set of activities as at Freshwater Bay, which are described above. In addition, staff from PSRF’s pinto abalone recovery program and DFW will take a quick trip to collect bull kelp. The kelp are the favorite food of the pinto abalone broodstock that are central to abalone production at the Chew Center. They will also collect samples for Dr. Chittaro’s isotope research, described above.

Aerial view of bull kelp at North Beach, near Port Townsend. Image courtesy of Tyler Cowdrey.

July 17 - Chetzemoka Park and McCurdy Point

Day 3, the team will pause in an area steeped in all things marine as we turn from the Strait of Juan de Fuca into Puget Sound. We will convene at  Chetzemoka Park  - the first stop on the čičməhán Trail that weaves through Port Townsend, telling the story of the S’Klallam people and European settlers. Here, we will hear reflections on the importance of kelp from one of Chief Chetzemoka’s descendants, of the  Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe , celebrate and enjoy time at the water's edge. We are excited to feature foods made from kelp – either directly or indirectly – that we have collected and that has been contributed by  Seagrove Kelp  (thank you!), with a major lift from fishers from the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe. Under the water, the DFW and PSRF abalone dive teams will be at McCurdy Point on the lookout for abalone and collecting samples for the bull kelp seed bank.

Edmonds

Day 4, the team explores waters of Central Puget Sound. At Edmonds, in the kelp bed just north of the  Edmonds Underwater Park , in the  Brackett's Landing Shoreline Sanctuary Conservation Area , the team will be busy on and under the water.

  • Scientists from NOAA will be in the kelp bed, as part of their research on  ecological research on rockfishes in Puget Sound . There, they will be collecting young of year (YOY) rockfish for stable isotope analyses, testing out the viability of using a remotely-operated vehicle (ROV) for monitoring, and re-acclimating to dive work after a long hiatus from dive work due to Covid.
  • At Edmonds, we say goodbye to DNR’s AAMT crew after they complete their suite of activities, as described for Freshwater Bay. But before the R/V Neap returns to the dock, AAMT will travel to Doe-Kag-Wats/Jefferson Head – site of work on day 5 – to map the seafloor and kelp enhancement site with their multibeam sonar system. 
  • Edmonds is another of the 10 index sites that PSRF and partners are establishing as long-term monitoring sites (see day 1). PSRF divers (+ Reef Check guest diver Dan Abbott) will conduct another biodiversity survey at this site, and also be busy collecting samples for Dr. Padilla-Gamiño (see day 1 for descriptions). And a special thanks to our long-time go-to vessel guy – Jeff Waite, of the historic  Harbour Public House  on Bainbridge.
  • The PSRF team will also continue surface work – full of morphometric measurements and photo documentation – so that we can compare kelp in the beds we explore along the expedition.
  • Dan Lomax with  NOAA Fisheries  will be captaining a boat to support other expedition participants, including Liz Smith, a Producer with  PBS Changing Seas , and  Eric Wagner , a Seattle-based author and PhD biologist who writes books and articles about animals and the environment.
  • Dr. Pfister and her team will be out at Edmonds, too, diligently performing the same set of tasks as described for Freshwater Bay. 

Doe-Kag-Wats/Jefferson Head

Day 5 will focus on PSRF’s bull kelp restoration and enhancement site offshore from the  Suquamish Tribe’s  Doe-Kag-Wats estuary and Jefferson Head (DKW/JH). Kelp was historically abundant here, but has not been present via natural recruitment since the 1990s. DKW/JH is where PSRF has been developing restoration practices, with support from NOAA, that involve seed transfers and other manipulations to learn what works and what doesn’t to facilitate the recovery of bull kelp forests (see Program Component 1  here ). We are thankful that Joth Davis of  Blue Dot Sea Farms  will be hosting several expedition members on his boat that day!

  • DKW/JH is third index site that the teams will have visited, so a good opportunity for PSRF divers (+ Reef Check guest diver Dan Abbott) to conduct another biodiversity survey at this site, as well as a thorough survey of the enhancement itself, and also be busy collecting samples for Dr. Padilla-Gamiño and Dr. Chittaro (see day 1 for descriptions). 
  • Dr. Pfister and her team will be with us, too, so that her team can see how a restoration-grade kelp compares to naturally-occurring kelp. 
  • Other members of the PSRF team will be on the NOAA Fisheries boat captained by Dan Lomax.

An 1868 chart of Port Madison notes a kelp bed near Port Jefferson. Chart courtesy of NOAA's Historical Map & Collection.

Seattle Waterfront, Wing Point, and Lincoln Park

Day 6, we settle into waters adjacent to Puget Sound’s largest metropolitan area, where a look beneath reveals the stark contrast of thriving kelp beds and places where kelp has disappeared.

  • A stone’s throw from downtown Seattle, staff from the  Port of Seattle  and PSRF will be working their way along the whole Seattle waterfront, mapping surface kelp. This work is part of investments that the Port is making in research and restoration associated with  blue carbon . The teams will also be testing the use of an ROV for monitoring, as well as surveying an existing kelp bed off of Magnolia, and collecting samples for our colleagues at NOAA and the UW.
  • Dan Lomax with  NOAA Fisheries  will have a boat on-site to support filmmakers Florian Graner and Gina Truesdell and other members of the PSRF team. 
  • Just south of downtown Seattle, we find another  beautiful section of kelp  nestled into our urban waters. At Lincoln Park, retired DNR kelp master  Tom Mumford  will join the DNR team as they conduct a drone survey. Tom, who lives up to his Twitter moniker – @KaptnKelp – will share the story of kelp at Lincoln Park. 
  • A much longer stone’s throw from downtown Seattle is Wing Point, on Bainbridge Island, due west from downtown Seattle. Here, Helen Berry (DNR) will be on the water, describing a bull kelp bed that has blinked out. The bed that once was is exemplary of the loss of bull kelp beds around the entirety of Bainbridge Island. 

A 1901 nautical chart illustrates floating kelp off Wing Point on Bainbridge Island. Chart courtesy of NOAA's Historical Map & Chart Collection.

Squaxin Island

Day 7 of the expedition brings us to South Puget Sound, where  the majority of bull kelp forests have been lost . Here, in waters of the  Squaxin Island Tribe , the teams will turn attention to one of the last remaining bull kelp beds in the area, and one that is in distress. Our time in Squaxin waters will be celebratory, but also a humbling end to our time on the water, and an appropriate place for calls to action to reverberate. 

  • The Squaxin and  DNR dive teams  have adopted the bed as an additional index site. The teams will be present to conduct preliminary work to make sure the site is established and monitoring underway.Helen Berry and the DNR Nearshore Habitat Program will be surveying the bed from the surface, as part of their long term monitoring efforts that have been so essential for tracking bull kelp beds throughout Puget Sound. 
  • Helen Berry and the DNR Nearshore Habitat Program will be surveying the bed from the surface, as part of their long term monitoring efforts that have been so essential for tracking bull kelp beds throughout Puget Sound.
  • PSRF will be out of their dive gear, but on the surface documenting the morphometrics of kelp in this bed, and busy collecting samples for the seed bank, and for Dr. Padilla-Gamiño and Dr. Chittaro (see day 1 for descriptions).

Olympia

On the final day, we gather one last time to mark the culmination of the expedition and to launch ourselves forward towards continued collective action. PSRF is indebted to the Squaxin Island Tribe for co-hosting the event. We will learn from tribal leaders about the cultural importance of kelp forests, thank the Washington State Legislature and the Governor’s Office for recent funding to implement priority actions in the  Puget Sound Kelp Conservation and Recovery Plan , share food that embodies a healthy marine ecosystem, and strengthen partnerships for the important conservation and recovery work ahead. Thanks are owed to  Salish Seafoods ,  Chelsea Farms  and  Taylor Shellfish  for preparing the feast, and to  Port of Olympia  for providing the venue.

Collective Action

Collective and individual actions of all kinds are needed now. We need to tackle big structural challenges like reducing greenhouse gases; but there are also many individual actions we can take TODAY within our communities to support kelp forests.

Join us virtually on The Expedition and help spread the kelp story.

Pause to marvel at kelp forests, where, when and however you can. Observe kelp in real time on the shore, in the water, or on a boat. Engage with kelp virtually through movies and websites. Good resources include:

  • My Octopus Teacher
  • Blue Planet series with David Attenborough

Help reduce greenhouse gas emissions and nutrient pollution in whatever ways you can.

See below and find actions that work for YOU!


Acknowledgments

The Kelp Expedition wouldn't be possible without generous funding from The Pew Charitable Trusts and Raynier Institute and Foundation, or the dedication and commitment to science and research by our core collaborators:

Northwest Indian Fisheries • Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe • Port Gamble S’Klallam Tribe • Samish Indian Nation • Squaxin Island Tribe • NOAA • The Pew Charitable Trust • Washington Sea Grant • Port of Seattle • Washington Department of Natural Resources • Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife • Washington Department of Ecology • Northwest Straits Commission • Marine Agronomics

A huge thank you to our staff, partners and collaborators for their time and contributions in the creation of this StoryMap, and a special thank you to the following individuals:

  • Todd Woodard of the Samish Indian Nation and Jeff Dickison of the Squaxin Island Tribe for their invaluable input.
  • Nicole Naar of Washington Sea Grant, who researched and authored Appendix B - The Cultural Importance of Kelp for Pacific Northwest Tribes as a part of the Puget Sound Kelp and Conservation Plan referenced in this section. Read the full appendix  here .
  • Tom Mumford and Helen Berry for their all-things-kelp expertise.
  •  Jenn Burt  and  Jackie Hildering   (©Jackie Hildering,  www.TheMarineDetective.com ) for the use of their many featured images. Through their passion for and commitment to bull kelp habitat, we're able to better experience these underwater forests ourselves.
  • Artist and kelp enthusiast,  Andrea Dingeldein , for the use of her beautiful work, Kelps of Puget Sound.

Literature/Sources Referenced

  1. Calloway, M., D. Oster, H. Berry, T. Mumford, N. Naar, B. Peabody, L. Hart, D. Tonnes, S. Copps, J. Selleck, B. Allen, and J. Toft. 2020. Puget Sound kelp conservation and recovery plan. Prepared for NOAA-NMFS, Seattle, WA. 52 pages plus appendices.
  2. Mumford, T.F., 2007. Kelp and Eelgrass in Puget Sound. Puget Sound Nearshore Partnership Technical Report 2007-05. Published by Seattle District, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Seattle, Washington.  Kelp and Eelgrass in Puget Sound (wa.gov) 
  3. H Berry, T Mumford, B Christiaen, P Dowty, M Calloway, L Ferrier, E Grossman, N VanArendonk. 2021. Patterns of loss and persistence in kelp forests: South Puget Sound (1873-2018). ArcGIS online StoryMap.  https://storymaps.arcgis.com/stories/636b37a1b5f44105a485237e52adb651 
  4. Naar, Nicole. 2020. Puget Sound Kelp and Conservation Plan, Appendix B - The Cultural Importance of Kelp for Pacific Northwest Tribes. Prepared for NOAA-NMFS, Seattle, WA. Pages 2 - 9. 
  5. Jon M. Erlandson, Michael H. Graham, Bruce J. Bourque, Debra Corbett, James A. Estes & Robert S. Steneck (2007) The Kelp Highway Hypothesis: Marine Ecology, the Coastal Migration Theory, and the Peopling of the Americas, The Journal of Island and Coastal Archaeology, 2:2, 161-174, DOI:  10.1080/15564890701628612 
  6. Turner, N. J. 2001. Coastal peoples and marine plants on the northwest coast. Pages 69 to 76 in Proceedings of the 26th Annual Conference of the International Association of Aquatic and Marine Science Libraries and Information Centers; September 30 to October 5, 2000, Victoria, BC.
  7. Stewart H. (1977). Indian Fishing: Early Methods on the Northwest Coast. Seattle, WA: University of WashingtonPress
  8. Boas F & Hunt G. (1921) Ethnology of the Kwakiutl, based on data collected by George Hunt. Thirty-Fifth Annual Report of the Bureau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution (1913-1914). Washington D.C.: Government Printing Office.
  9. Gunther E. (1973). Ethnobotany of Western Washington. Seattle, WA: University of Washington Press.
  10. Elmendorf WW. (1961) Skokomish and other Coast Salish tales, Part III. Research Studies 24(3):119
  11. Gunther E. (1925) Klallam folk tales. University of Washington Publications in Anthropology, 1(4), 113–170.
  12. Rector T & Karsen L (directors). (2015) The Maiden of Deception Pass: Guardian of her Samish People. Longhouse Media.
  13. Northwest Straits.(2021, Feb 24). Clallam MRC Kelp Webinar [video]. Youtube. Clallam MRC Kelp Webinar - YouTube 
  14. Duggins, D. O., C. A. Simenstad, and J. A. Estes. 1989. Magnification of secondary production by kelp detritus in coastal marine ecosystems. Science 245:170–173.
  15. Branch, G.M., & Griffiths, C. (1988). The Benguela ecosystem. V: The coastal zone. Oceanography and Marine Biology, 26, 395-486.
  16. Duggins, D. O. and J. E. Eckman. 1994. The role of kelp detritus in the growth of benthic suspension feeders in an understory kelp forest. Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology 176: 53-68.
  17. Duggins, D. O., M. C. Gómez-Buckley, R. M. Buckley, A. T. Lowe, A. W. E. Galloway, and M. N. Dethier. 2016. Islands in the stream: kelp detritus as faunal magnets. Marine Biology Volume 163(17), 10 pages.
  18. Puget Sound Institute. Puget Sound Science Review, 2-Pinto Abalone. Encyclopedia of Puget Sound.  2. Pinto abalone | Encyclopedia of Puget Sound (eopugetsound.org) 
  19. NOAA Fisheries. Chinook Salmon. Species Directory.  https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/species/chinook-salmon 
  20. NOAA Fisheries. Lingcod. Species Directory.  Lingcod | NOAA Fisheries 
  21. Krumhansl, K., and R. Scheibling. 2012. Production and fate of kelp detritus. Marine Ecology Progress Series 467:281–302.
  22. NOAA Fisheries. Pacific Herring. Species Directory.  Pacific Herring | NOAA Fisheries 
  23. Bennett S, Wernberg T, Connell SD, Hobday AJ, Johnson CR, Poloczanska ES. 2016. The “Great Southern Reef ”: Social, ecological and economic value of Australia’s neglected kelp forests. Marine and Freshwater Research 67: 47–56.  https://www.publish.csiro.au/mf/Fulltext/MF15232 
  24. Royal, T. (2014, April 7). Suquamish Tribe’s Doe Kag Wats Healing a Decade Later. Northwest Indian Fisheries Commission. https://nwifc.org/doe-kag-wats-decade-later/
  25. Palmer-McGee, C. A Decade of Disappearance: Bull Kelp in the San Juan Islands. ArcGIS online StoryMap.  https://storymaps.arcgis.com/stories/b9f979a547004c32a616b5319a6410c0 
  26. Pfister, CA, Berry, HD, Mumford, T. The dynamics of Kelp Forests in the Northeast Pacific Ocean and the relationship with environmental drivers. J Ecol. 2018; 106: 1520– 1533.  https://doi.org/10.1111/1365-2745.12908 
  27. Nearshore Habitat Program. Washington State Department of Natural Resources.  Nearshore Habitat Program | WA - DNR 
  28. Starko S, Bailey LA, Creviston E, James KA, Warren A, Brophy MK, et al. (2019) Environmental heterogeneity mediates scale-dependent declines in kelp diversity on intertidal rocky shores. PLoS ONE 14(3): e0213191.  https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0213191 
  29. Rogers-Bennett, L., and C. A. Catton. 2019. Marine heat wave and multiple stressors tip bull kelp forest to sea urchin barrens. Scientific Reports 9:15050.

Data and Cartographic Information Referenced

(a) The Kelp Highway - Derivative drawing from The kelp highway hypothesis: Marine ecology, the coastal migration theory, and the peopling of the Americas by Jon M. Erlandson, Michael H. Graham, Bruce J. Bourque, Debra Corbett, James A. Estes & Robert S. Steneck, published in the Journal of Island and Coastal Archaeology.

(b) Making the Kelp Connection - Axonometric perspective drawings by Hannah Garfield. Material references information synthesized from the Puget Sound Kelp and Conservation Plan - Appendix A.

(c) Bull Kelp Survey Comparison - Data accessed through Department of Natural Resources Nearshore Habitat Program’s Vegetation Atlas:

  • Washington Department of Wildlife Kelp Observations (1978), courtesy of Washington State Department of Natural Resources Marine Vegetation Atlas.
  • Washington State ShoreZone Inventory (2000 - 2004), courtesy of Washington State Department of Natural Resources Marine Vegetation Atlas.

StoryMap Created By: Hannah Garfield at Puget Sound Restoration Fund with help from numerous staff, partners and collaborators.

This project has been funded in part by The Pew Charitable Trusts and the Raynier Institute and Foundation. The contents of this document do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of kelp expedition partners.

Bull kelp (Nereocystis luetkeana) illustration by Andrea Dingeldein

The shaded area represents the Kelp Highway, or areas along the Pacific Rim where kelp forest ecosystems are presently found. (a) Derivative drawing from “The kelp highway hypothesis: Marine ecology, the coastal migration theory, and the peopling of the Americas” by Jon M. Erlandson, Michael H. Graham, Bruce J. Bourque, Debra Corbett, James A. Estes & Robert S. Steneck, published in the Journal of Island and Coastal Archaeology.

Bull kelp stipes were used as water conduits, or hoses (6). Bulbs were cut to make a convenient funnel (7). Together, kelp bulbs (or floats) and stipes were utilized for long-term storage and long-distance trade of eulachon, seal, dogfish and whale oils (8), and later molasses and spirits (9).

Maiden of Deception Pass.  Image  courtesy of Maureen Murphy via ( CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 ).

A bed of native olympia oysters. Image courtesy of Betsy Peabody.

Kelp detritus. (Left) photo courtesy of Jenn Burt; (Right) photo courtesy of Puget Sound Restoration Fund.

(Left) A northern kelp crab feeds on kelp.  Image  courtesy of J. Maughn ( CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 ); (Right) A pinto abalone grazes along the seafloor. Photo courtesy of Josh Bouma.

Lingcod caught in Puget Sound. Photo courtesy of Craig Williams.

Kelp Wrack. Image courtesy of Timothy Vollimer.

Herring eggs deposited on seaweed.  Image  courtesy of Washington DNR ( CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 ).

A Chinook salmon swims past kelp fronds. Image courtesy of NOAA.

Juvenile Bocaccio rockfish. Image courtesy of Adam Obaza,  Paua Marine Research Group .

Newborn harbor seal napping on a bed of kelp.  Image  courtesy of NOAA Fisheries ( CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 ).

A Killer whale swims alongside bull kelp. Image courtesy of Melisa Pinnow.

Kelp beds can absorb wave energy, subsequently reducing damaging waves that cause beach erosion. Base  image  courtesy of Caitriana Nicholson ( CC BY-SA 2.0 ).

KelpKelp forests "fix" - or store - excess carbon, helping to improve ocean health. Base image courtesy of Neil Banas.

A 1912 survey identifies floating kelp near Port Townsend. Chart courtesy of: Cameron FK, 1915. Potash from Kelp. U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 122 p., [20] leaves of plates; atlas (54 maps (some folding); 73 x 57 cm).

A 1901 nautical chart illustrates floating kelp off Wing Point on Bainbridge Island. Chart courtesy of NOAA's Historical Map & Chart Collection.

Squaxin Island is home to one of the last remaining beds in South Puget Sound. A study by Washington’s DNR Nearshore Habitat Program between 2013 and 2020 shows the kelp forest contracted in both total extent and depth distribution, and has yet to rebound. Graphic courtesy of DNR Nearshore Habitat Program.

Historical and recent bull kelp distribution in South Puget Sound. Blue lines delineate shorelines where bull kelp occurred historically but has not been observed recently (all records since 1870s). Pink lines delineate shorelines where bull kelp occurred historically and persisted in most recent surveys (2017-2018). Graphic courtesy of DNR Nearshore Habitat Program.

A kelp crab on the tattered remains of bull kelp near Squaxin Island in South Puget Sound. Blade loss may be due to high temperatures or grazing kelp crabs. Image courtesy of Helen Berry, Washington Department of Natural Resources Nearshore Habitat Program.

A survey by Rigg in 1911-1912 identifies floating kelp off Smith Island. Chart courtesy of: Cameron FK, 1915. Potash from Kelp. U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 122 p., [20] leaves of plates; atlas (54 maps (some folding); 73 x 57 cm).

Aerial view of bull kelp at North Beach, near Port Townsend. Image courtesy of Tyler Cowdrey.

An 1868 chart of Port Madison notes a kelp bed near Port Jefferson. Chart courtesy of NOAA's Historical Map & Collection.

A 1901 nautical chart illustrates floating kelp off Wing Point on Bainbridge Island. Chart courtesy of NOAA's Historical Map & Chart Collection.