The History of Lake of Bays
Rich landscape, Richer History.
This is the story of Lake of Bays, home to many resorts and cottages over the years. I have had the pleasure of growing up on the lake and have grown a fond appreciation and interest in the history of how the lake came to be. This interactive story map will highlight many of the historic places that have contributed to its rich history.
I could not have completed this map without the contribution of my community members here in Lake of Bays. Each of them have contributed so many wonderful stories, photos, and helped connect the puzzling history. There is truly no place like Lake of Bays.
Arriving to Lake of Bays in the 1800s was mainly done through portaging and canoes, and further development led to carriage trails. In the 1900s the first Portage Train and Steamers chartered summers guests to these communities and hotels.
The history of the communities and hotels which made up Lake of Bays through the 1800s-1900s.
Lake of Bays
This beautiful land is Indigenous land and is well known for the various Indigenous Bands that traded furs, fished, and hunted for survival.
Before the long explorers, surveyors, lumberman, and developers Lake of Bays was their home and their heritage on the lake contributes heavily to the identity.
Lake of Bays was home to the Bigwin Family and Chief John Big wind and James (his son) was recognized as a local celebrity and is celebrated for his friendliness and boat journeys through Lake of Bays.
His settlements were located on Bigwin Island and Cedar Narrows (which is now Dorset). They grew many potatoes, took many canoe trips, and frequently visited their ancestors burial grounds on Bigwin Island.
Cedar Narrows (Dorset) - 1880
This was the first established settlement on the lake. With origins tracing back to the 1700s. Livelihood was based around trading fur posts and Indigenous bands.
In the 1880s was connected with Bobcaygeon Road which ran from Bracebridge, to Baysville, to Dorset. By this point more settlers began to arrive, and by 1871 a wagon track from Baysville made it extremely accessible.
Sea Breeze - 1890s
Seabreeze was home to pioneer families such as the Burks, Chevaliers, Dales, Dillions, and Irwins who settled and attempted to farm. The photo on the top right is an original pioneer home. Since farming did not workout they turned to lumber and hunting as they established their community.
Cottages were later built in the 1900s about 30 to 40 summer residences.
The Seabreeze “association” dates back to 1921, where members kept busy with many structure innovations in the 1920s and later in the 1930s the noise and busyness off the new highway. Additionally, they were the first to fight the new reinstated annual fee for cottages, which was $3.00 at the time!
The community often hosted “Seabreeze Socials” which ranged from regatta to picnics. Today this tradition is still recognized in the Sea Breeze community.
Langmaids Grocer - 1872
Built by W.H Brown in 1872 however it sat empty until 1876 when Captain Marsh opened a dry food store. Later, the store was sold to William Langmaid in the early 1920s. He operated it for many years with the hired help of Nelle Connelly. Together they ran the store and a boat service which would deliver goods to cottagers throughout the lake.
Rumour has it he was quite smitten with Nelle, however nothing came of it. When he passed away he left everything including the store to Nelle. Today the building still stands and is now known as Miss Nelles Cafe.
The Dam - 1873
The dam was first constructed by who other than, W.H Brown in 1873. In order to get water to run his saw mill.
The first dam was nothing elaborate only consisting of three logs and the rest of the water would just run over it.
The second dam was built in 1918 in order to raise the water levels in the lake to accommodate for steamer traffic. However the steamers never made it all the way past the Baysville Narrows.
The current dam opened in 1960 as a project of the Provincial government. It still operates today to controlling flooding and the water levels of the lake.
Port Cunnington - 1890
Established in 1890 by Boyce Henry Cunnington, who originally came to the area to farm. However, he was quite disappointed to learn that the soil was mainly bedrock and sand. So to make his living he turned to the booming tourism and hospitality industry in the area. Port Cunnington is the oldest standing and operating resort in Muskoka.
Port Cunnington is now owned and operated by the Wadsworth family. Specifically, Jack Wadsworth took much interest in the small resort. He approached the Cunnington family with a plan to carry on the family hotel's legacy in the 1970s.
It has since undergone rejuvenating renovations and expansions. The most notorious spot at the Lodge is the boathouse and originating lodge where all the meals are held.
The "Humpback Bridge" - 1895
The name Cedar Narrows was changed to Dorset in 1883. The iconic bridge was first built in 1895 and collapsed in 1905. The current bridge was built in 1914 and the “humpback” has remained visually unchanged.
There were many establishments that came to the south side of town once the bridge was built. These included a local jail, post office, and the Clayton store general store. There was even a marina that docked the steamers overnight. The first LCBO came to Dorset in 1960!
Many of the original buildings on the south side still stand today and can be visited.
St. Ambrose Anglican Church - 1898
Constructed in 1898, from a grant from the Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. The site for the church was donated by our notorious W. H. Brown!
Fun fact - it is the only church in Canada dedicated to St. Ambrose. The first church was burnt in a fire in 1919. The newest church still stands today in the small town.
Idylwyld Farm -1902
Nellie and Robert Green operated the farm and raised cows at the farm and lumbered in 1902. When her husband Robert tragically drowned in the lake attempting to cross the ice in 1909.
Nellie then began to add more buildings to host tourists. It was quite the attraction! In 2012 the Idylwyld was closed and sold as a private residence.
Bondi Farm now Resort
Opened in 1905 as a farm by the Tapley family. The farm was successful and actually supplied many of the Inns on the lake with their local eggs and vegetables.
In the later years the farm operated as resorted as well as farm. The property still operates as a resort with fourteen cottages, a stable, and chicknes!
"The Beautiful Clovelly" - 1902
Prior to being called Clovelly Point it was known as “Blueberry Point”. The first lot was owned by Richard and his wife Phoebe Green dating back to 1899! However the lot was officially transferred to Richard Green in 1902 ranging about 100 acres in size.
The only way to access these summer homes was from the steamer, the Iqrouis.
The property was further divided and transferred to James William Tyrell. Mr. Tyrell was far ahead of his time and created a subdivision plan for those wanting to purchase a lakefront property.
However, the lots did not sell mainly because of the First World War and the fact that there were no roads. He then drew up a brochure and created three rental cottages. The cottages are now privately owned and still stand today!
Hotel Brittannia - 1905
In 1905 a Huntsville Hardware store businessman, Thomas J. White, built Hotel Britannia. When Thomas died in 1954, his son Paul Sarson White, left his position as vice-president and decided to turn the hotel into a year- round resort.
A new three storey fireproof lodge was built and opened in 1955. He even added a ski hill, artificial ice curling rink, and golf course with a new club house. The property was later sold to a Hamilton business group in 1973 and the hotel closed.
The property was opened as a Maharishi International Academy and was later closed. The future plans of the hotel remain unknown.
Quinns Saw Mill - 1905
Operated by Fred Quinn and his sons in 1905. It was the most effective way to make a living. The Quinns provided lumber for many future endeavours in the Dwight area.
They had an advantage with a property at the base of the river which helped them better float logs from up the property down and throughout the lake.
Bonna Vista - 1910
Bona Vista was established by a numerous ministers in 1910, who were generally Presbyterian. Lead by Rev. J. A. Brown, with rumours saying that Mr. Brown found the summer life at Norway Point becoming too “worldly” for his taste.
There were no roads to these summer homes and this was the most northern stop for Mr. Langmaid. The cottagers who spent their summer here were serviced by the Mohawk Belle.
The road did not come until the 1930's, however even then it was not great. The community was sold in the 1970s and is now home to numerous private cottagers!
The Twin Steamers - 1907
Iroquois Steamer & Mohawk Belle
The Iroquois was launched in 1907 the steamer made day trips around Lake of Bays stopping to pick up or drop off passengers, luggage, and the Royal Mail. It served the Clovelly Community dock and the White House Hotel Dock. Legend has it picked up illicit goods from Whiskey Bay, hence the name. To accommodate the demand the Mohawk Belle was launched as her "twin" in 1913. Both were operated by the Huntsville and Lake of Bays Navigation Company!
The Iroquois sank to the bottom of South Portage Bay, for some time you could see the bow peeking up from the shallow waters. The Mohawk also sank in a dry dock and was later towed and left on the backside of Bigwin Island.
The Wa Wa Hotel - 1908
Built in 1908 by John Wilson Robertson. The hotel was quite large and accommodated 300 guests, the hotel was considered luxurious. It had hot and cold running water, electric lighting throughout, and the majority of the rooms featured en suite bathrooms.
Tragedy struct on the night of August 12th, 1923. A fire broke out in the centre tower, taking the lives of eight staff who were women. Majority of the guests had to be saved using ropes from higher-leveled rooms.
Later it was discovered that the water valve for the fire sprinklers had been turned off, the hotel was not up to code, and lacked any fire escape plans.
Today the land is home to some of the original cottages on the South side of the lake. And the cribs from the original steamer docks still lay in the bottom of the lake.
Dwight Store - 1915
An early resident Frank Keown built a store from lumber from Quinn’s Mill which tragically burned. The store was the go-to for news on the War, goods, and mail although it burnt to a fire that consumed the post office in 1915.
It is known that the famous Group of Seven Painter Tom Thomson used the service of the home when travelling to Algonquin Park and Huntsville.
Bigwin Inn - 1920
Opened by C.O Shaw in 1920, the resort accommodated 350 guests. It was known as "Pleasure Island" and was one of the biggest and most breathtaking resorts in Muskoka at the time, and still is.
Majority of the construction took place during the winter. Famous buildings were the Indian Head Dining Room, seating up to 750 guests at one time, the Dance Pavilion and the Rotunda.
It also had a 9-hole golf course designed by Stanley Thompson! The resorted hosted many sociallities and even some Dutch royals.
After C.O Shaw passed in 1954, there were many owners until Frank Leslie purchased the property in 1949. He operated on a non-profit basis and was successful in attracting entertainers to Bigwin, it was popular as a result, but due to illness he also had to sell the hotel in the 1960s.
The Bigwin Inn was closed in 1966. It sat abandoned for many years, and the main lodge was destroyed in a fire.
It was not until 1986 when Jack Wadsworth invested in the rejuvenation of the Island. It is now a prestigious private golf club and the nature & history of the island have been preserved.
It is not without mention that the island is home to the Bigwin Ban Ancestors burial grounds, on the East side of the island.
The Water Tower - 1920
The water tower is one of the iconic landmarks on the Island, it sits on top of an unexplainable natural spring. It was constructed from cement to provide running water to the inn and serve as a lookout point.
Today the tower provides LTE connection and weather webcams for the cottagers on the lake.
The SS Bigwin
Bigwin was originally named Ella Marie who was sold and relocated from Lake Muskoka to Lake of Bays. She lived her next 45 years on the lake shuttling guests to the infamous Bigwin Island.
When the resort fell into disrepair she was left to sit partially submerged on the bottom of her slip at Bigwin Inn. She then moved to a field nearby where she sat until a group of cottagers raised enough money to buy and restore.
Since her restoration she is back to her natural beauty and charters guests around Lake of Bays.
Still making annual runs to Bigwin Island and Port Cunnington Lodge.
The Chetolah Lodge - 1927
“Chetolah” translates to “haven of rest” from Cherokee to English. The lodge was owned by H.E Wadsworth, construction began in 1927 and was completed in 1929. Electricity had yet to come to Dorset so Mr. Wadsworth paid half the cost to run hydro lines from Bracebridge Ontario.
In the 1930s it operated as a Children’s Fresh Air Camp and it served local children. The lodge even had its own golf course!
It was then sold to Mr. Homer C. Selby who owns a shoe company in Ohio, he used as his private residence.
Lumina Resort
Lumina Resort has been owned and operated by the Hungerford family since 1898. When Thomas Henry Hungerford came to Lake of Bays in 1898 he attempted to farm, and later opened it as a camping ground in 1921.
The resort now has many small cottages and still operates as a resort, with many families coming for generations!
Nor’Loch Lodge - 1940
Built in 1900s by Dr. Pauline Morton to treat tuberculosis patients and allow them to take advantage of the fresh air and healthy waters. It burnt down the first time the fire place was used but was rebuilt a year later.
Many say the property is burdened by misfortune. It burned again in the 1940s and once again in 1959. In 1959 it took the lives of a bridesmaid and a wedding guest.
It is also rumoured that they buried cans all over the property and they are still being found today!
Langmaids Island - 1940
This is currently the largest undeveloped island in the Muskoka region. With an astonishing 147 untouched acres.
Once the summer island of the Adamson family, throughout the 1930s-1960s. The island was a prestigious summer property, hosting five buildings, and a massive boathouse (one burnt in 2012). The island was the first self-sufficient cottage on the lake, operating with its own generator shed and running water. The Adamson family, specifically Henry (the grandson) loved sharing its natural beautiful beaches with his community.
The family fought hard to keep it, however it did not stay within the family for unknown reasons. It sat abandoned for many years, it appeared as though the family would be back soon. Everything was left untouched including the beautiful mahogany antique boat in the boathouse.
It was not sold until 2017-18, to the Langmaids Island Corporation, who wishes to develop 32 lots. The Lake of Bays community has been fighting this proposal through an appeal which closed on March 21st 2021. A decision has not yet been made.
The Sailing Club - 1960
The Lake of Bays Sailing Club was founded in 1964. The club once operated out two rooms at the Bigwin Inn and had to relocate when the Inn shut down. By the 1970s they had moved to a Teahouse on Glenmount Road. In 1976 the LBSC members purchased the Catholic Church from across the road and turned the old teahouse into what is now known as the “sailing club docks”.