Italian Americans in Bensonhurst and Surrounding Areas
How this eclectic Italian American neighborhood got its start with Italian Immigrants
How this eclectic Italian American neighborhood got its start with Italian Immigrants
Bensonhurst derives its name from Arthur W. Benson, the former president of Brooklyn Gas, who starting buying farmland formerly owned by the Polhemus family in 1835. Between then and 1850, he divided the farming into lots, that he then sold, thus creating the suburb of Bensonhurst by the Sea, now Bath Beach. In 1890, it was annexed to the 30th Ward of Brooklyn. ( Urbanareas.net ) For more information on Arthur Benson, read this .
86th Street has been a famous street in Bensonhurst for the greater part of this century for its pizza. However, it was once used as a main road in the 1890s and was once a popular place for Jewish foods in the 50s. Nowadays you can find anything from Chinese grocery stores to a 24 Hour Fitness. This street has changed drastically over the centuries but one thing that won't change is its importance to Bensonhurst.
86th Street 1890 (BHJI)
86th Street 1950 (Pinterest) During this time, 86th Street was home to multiple Jewish delis and stores as well. This can help draw the connection between the Jews and Italians in Bensonhurst at the time.
86th Street Current Day, more modernized. (Pinterest)
Only the most iconic pizza scene ever! Courtesy of Youtube
According to the United Chinese Association of Brooklyn, Bensonhurst was primarily an Italian and Jewish community prior to World War II. In the 1950s, a considerable number of immigrants from southern Italy arrived and the Jewish population began to move out. The GI Bill was also a large reason why Italian Americans came to Bensonhurst. In a story written by Paula Katinas about Ray Guarini, an Italian American cultural enthusiast, he notes, “With the GI Bill, people were able to afford to buy homes,” he said. Italians flocked to the neighborhood in the years after World War II" (Katinas 2019) In addition to that, there was not a specific time of Italian immigrant who moved to Bensonhurst, although it is believed that a majority came from Southern Italy. They came from various regions at various times, were various ages and had various purposes. What is known, is at this time, Italian immigrants were flooding Benshorust and by the 1920s, there were more than 100,000 persons of Italian anscerty in Brooklyn, which was comparable to the pre-1924 immigrations in Little Italy and East Harlem (Tricarico 2019)
Bensonhurst’s greatest immigrant group were the Italians in 1940, with nearly 10/11 of all immigrants identifying as Italian. (ACS Data NYC 2012)
After World War II, the Italian population grew increasingly, specifically in the south part of Bensonhurst. At this point, Italians made up the greatest percentage of both immigrant groups and the total population. (ACS Data NYC 2012)
As you will read from the history of many of Bensonhurst's finest establishments, most of the food that was popularized in this area began with recipes from back home. This could be that these foods were cheap and easy for immigrants to produce, but what is known, is that these foods have had a lasting impact on the food culture in Bensonhurst. Immigrants that came to Bensonhurst made what they knew from back home (as many immigrants do) and flourished. The impact of Italians culture being brought to Brooklyn, and the dense Italian immigrant population specifically within Bensonhurst, Bay Ridge and Coney Island created not only immigrant driven establishments that thrived in the 20th century, but still survive today. To laugh at just how far Italian Americans in Bensonhurst will go for their delicacies, read this New York Times reader submission.
A focal point of Italians who came to Benshonhurst in the 20th century was St. Rosalia Church, a small Catholic church at 14th Avenue and 63rd Street. St. Athanasius Church on Bay Parkway and St. Finbar Church on Bay 20th St. were also notable churches for Italian Americans in Bensonhurst (Katinas, 2019)
My brother and dad at St. Finbar's for my brothers communion. My mom, her siblings and my siblings all received their communion here!
"When my grandparents came here, they were told not to speak Italian, thats why none of us speak any Italian" - Christine Siano Carellini, a Bensonhurst Native, granddaughter of Joe Catania, who came to Bensonhurst in 1916 from Italy and last but not least, my mom
Although some Italian American customs differ from classic European Italian customs, the core values of both groups remain the same; a focus on family, food and faith. While most Italian Americans present in Bensonhurst today do not speak Italian and do not have European Italian customs, they do long to be connected to their heritage and ancestry in any way possible. This has caused a great passion for Italian Americans to seek information and history in their lives. Guariani's passion is so large, he has created a network of Italian Americans focused on connecting Brooklyn Italians and any Italian to their heritage.
Italian Enclaves Facebook Page
From Italian Enclaves Facebook Page: "I have always been fascinated by the self-contained, Italian neighborhoods of America. While growing up in Brooklyn, I witnessed the retreat of these culturally rich enclaves. Some still thrive while others have all but vanished. I embarked upon a journey throughout America to photo document what still exists of these Italian enclaves today."
My family and extended family in Italy. Italian Americans and European Italians connect over a common denominator: food and family!
It wasn't until I was in Sicily, Italy this summer that I learned the real ways Italian Americans had adapted Italian cuisine. Regarding one of the most prized Italian delicacies, pizza, various adaptations have caused Sicilian pizza to look, taste and appear totally different in the United States and Brooklyn, then it does in Italy. Pizza is among many words, foods and habits that differ in Italy when compared to Brooklyn and the US in general. Find more info about the differences in pizza here !
In Sicily, this is what pizza looks like. From Al Giardino Cucina e Vini in Palermo. Courtesy of Serious Eats.
In Brooklyn and the US, this is what Sicilian Pizza looks like. Courtesy of the Huffington Post and Umberto's Pizzeria and Restaurant.
Map of Places
"A poor Italian immigrant named Pasquale Lorina arrived at the shores of NYC from Sicily. All Pasquale had was a satchel of clothes, and a book filled with his grandmother’s recipes, which she forced him to take. Pasquale found work in an Italian grocery store on Elizabeth Street, in New York’s “Little Italy” section. As he worked hard, he got married and saved his money.
One day he decided to read through his grandmother’s recipe book. THERE IT WAS “RAVIOLI”. He remembered how all his family and friends adored her ravioli. In 1943, Pasquale decided to take a chance and open a small pasta shop in Brooklyn. The ravioli caught on among the neighborhood and his business grew. Three generations later, the quality, perfection, and tradition continue. Now run by his family, every batch is checked for its consistency. The Lorina family didn’t stop at ravioli; they searched that book and began to produce other Italian favorites. Grandpa is long gone, but as his grandson states “I am sure he is looking down, and smiling every day!” Let us feed your family!!!!" (Papa Pasquale quoted from Bklyner.com )
"Anthony G. Ajello, enjoyed a prosperous career as a salesman for the Polly-O Italian Cheese Company. Anthony's passion and enthusiasm were unmatched because he believed in the superiority and worth of the ricotta and mozzarella products that he sold throughout the New York Metropolitan area. Anthony also respected his customers and was determined to provide them all with a consistent, first class brand of service.
In 1966, sensing a tremendous void in the marketplace and a unique opportunity to merge his sales experience with his enduring vision of creating a store where customers could purchase fresh ravioli filled with the highest quality ingredients, Anthony opened the first Pastosa Ravioli store located on Avenue N and East 53rd Street in Brooklyn, New York. Never compromising his commitment to superior products and customer satisfaction, his tiny store became a huge success. As his customers repeatedly lined up to purchase delicious ravioli and fresh mozzarella, Anthony quickly realized that he was going to need a bigger store.
Anthony settled on the Italian neighborhood of Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, where, in 1972, he found the perfect spot on the corner of New Utrecht Avenue and 75th street. Reinforced by the additions of his young and eager son, Michael, and his partner, Tony Postiglione, the three continued to produce unprecedented ravioli by using the finest ingredients possible. By the time Anthony retired in 1977, Pastosa Ravioli had become a landmark in Brooklyn. In the years that followed, our father, Michael, and his partner, Uncle Tony, were able to take the store to extraordinary new heights.
After twenty years of packing crowds into their corner store, Michael and Tony embarked on a major renovation in 1992. The project nearly tripled the size of their operation and allowed Pastosa Ravioli to expand its target market through a newly developed wholesale department. Restaurants, retail shops and food distributors now turned to Pastosa Ravioli as the source of New York's finest ravioli, fresh pasta and Italian specialties. Just as importantly, Michael and Tony were able to open additional Pastosa Ravioli locations and to supply them with fresh products manufactured at the flagship store in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn. Today all 11 stores are owned and operated by the Ajello family"(Taken from Pastosa website, find more on Pastosa's here !)
"For generations the Alaimo family has been creating the finest in Sicilian pastries, cakes, cookies and breads. It all started in the small town of Villabate in the northern region of the island of Sicily where Angelo Alaimo and his son Emanuele started their legacy by baking bread for the locals. After years of working hard in the country they call home, Angelo and Emanuele followed their dreams of bringing the best in Italian baking to the people and brought their talents to America.
In 1979, after years of hard work as simple breadmakers in bakeries all over Brooklyn., Angelo and Emanuele finally reached their goal and opened a place of their own, Villabate of 18th Ave. This legendary bakery brought only the finest in Italian bakery creations, from cookies, cakes, pastries and of course, breads. As a family owned and run business, the Alaimo family, Emanuele, Lina, Angela,Emanuele Jr. and Anthony dedicate themselves to delivering only the most authentic Italian goods to their loyal customers. After thirty three years, and three generations, Villabate continues its legacy, being a part of the Brooklyn family, and giving back to the great community that has made it the bakery it has become today." (Taken from Villa Bate Alba website, find more about Villa Bate here and here !
Established in 1966, DaVinci is family owned and operated. Brothers Angelo and Antonio Gnerre turn out pizza based on the recipes of their dad, Fedele, a self-taught pizza chef who hailed from Avellino, Italy." (Taken from Da Vinci website, find out more about Da Vinci here !)
"Ludovico Barbati came to the United States in 1917 from Torella Di Lombardi, Italy. He married his bride Paolina Maugeri in 1918. They had six children, Carmine, Rose, Anna, Mary, Salvatore & Ludovico, Jr. In 1938 Ludovico learned from a baker how to make pizza in a garage on West 8th Street, Brooklyn. To sell his products he decided to peddle them using a horse and wagon. So he purchased Babe the horse, and a wagon, and sold his products up and down the streets of Gravesend and Bensonhurst, Brooklyn.
In 1939, Ludovico, Sr. decided he needed a little, inexpensive place to make the Spumoni and Ices, so he purchased vacant property on 86th Street in Brooklyn. He asked his friends, who were carpenters, brick layers and cement workers from the old country, to build the first of now three buildings. As he manufactured his Spumoni in his new factory, neighborhood people would come in to buy his products, stopping him from making the goods to sell from his horse and wagon. As business grew he decided it couldn't go on that way. So he told his daughter Anna to stay in the factory and serve the people while he made the Spumoni. Well, it caught on, so once again he asked his friends to build a shanty in front of the factory where he could put out some tables and chairs, and plant some trees.
In the mid 1950s L&B Spumoni Gardens built the second of the now three buildings, which is now the Pizzeria, selling our famous thick Sicilian pies, as well as our regular round pies. Progressively, through the years, our third building was added which was a luncheonette. It has since been expanded to house our Dining Room. L&B Spumoni Gardens is now in its fourth generation. There will always be a family member to greet you at our doors. We are proud of our heritage and we know how proud our grandfather Ludovico would be of us. We are so very grateful for his insight."
(Taken from L&B Spumoni Gardens website, find out more about the rich history of L&B here !)
"Cuccio's Bakery in Gravesend has had generation-to-generation ownership for 80 years. Their most notable treats are rainbow cookies and pignoli cookies!"
" I practically grew up on Cuccio's Bakery! Every and any event /family gathering there was always a Cuccio's box (or 2) on the kitchen counter or table for us to enjoy. For the longest time I thought Cuccio's was the only bakery in Brooklyn. Haha!"
"Cuccio's was our family bakery for 3 generations. It is an intrinsic part of Sheepshead Bay. My Aunt lived in the same bldg and had a dry cleaning business with her husband . Very fond memories of Italian cookies and pastries. Even when we migrated to California, we never forgot Cuccio's and dad, having been born and raised on E. 12th St and Ave. X, always "encouraged" my Brooklyn relatives to bring a couple of boxes of goodies....or else! Still a good buy and delicious!"
"What can one simply say about cuccio's, greatest rainbow and lace cookies around and the chocolate covered cannoli, forget about it. Hands down the best bakery in BK".
Quoted from various reviewers on Yelp, to find out more about Cuccio's visit here !)
1903 - Anthony (Totonno) Pero comes to America and begins working at Lombardi’s in Little Italy.
1924 - Totonno’s opens in Coney Island. Totonno marries Antoinette Coppola, who become the parents of Pasquale (Freddy), Aida-- Totonno’s love for the Opera-- (Edith), Julia, and Gennaro (Jerry). Jerry was taught to make pies in the 1950’s, when Totonno became ill, and remained the sole pie maker until the 1990’s. Freddy worked the kitchen, and Julia, the front end of the restaurant. Edith was the only sibling to marry and have three children (Cookie, Frankie, and Annette), and she worked for some years on weekends.
1970's - In the early 70’s, Cookie worked as a waitress at Totonno’s, and Uncle Jerry trained her to make pizza. Louise married Joel Ciminieri and had a son, Lawrence, in 1968. Frank worked for Verizon, and Annette was a teacher.
1994 - Jerry passes away, and the business is at the helm of Louise, with help from her husband, Joel, and son Lawrence -they both had also been taught to make pies from Uncle Jerry.
1997 - Totonno’s suffers a fire…to be reopened 3 months later.
2004 - Louise’s husband, Joel Ciminieri, passes away, and son, Lawrence, takes over for his dad.
2009 - Totonno’s suffers a major fire, closing the restaurant for 11 months. Frank and Annette become more involved in the operation of Totonno’s.
2012 - Sandy strikes, closing Totonno’s for 5 months.
2013 - Totonno's reopens and is back in business!
(Taken from Totonno's website. For more information on Totonno's and their rich history, visit here !)
"Gargiulo’s Restaurant began in Coney Island in 1907, as a small family owned business located on Mermaid Avenue. It was the beginning of something that no one could have imagined. As the business and the Gargiulo family expanded, the business relocated from its original location on Mermaid Avenue to its present location on West 15th Street.
The Russo Brothers began their foray into the hospitality industry in the early 1960’s, opening a 16 seat pizzeria on Nostrand Avenue. Da Luigi, an 80 seat venue, was their next location, which was very popular from its opening featuring their family recipes from Sorrento, Italy. “Classic Neapolitan Cuisine” based on traditional family recipes, were taught to the brothers by their Zia Dora Ercolano. The 1970’s brought more family to the United States to help with the growing business. A turning point in Gargiulo’s history is when the food critic, Mimi Sheraton, from the New York Times’ gave us 3 out of 4 stars. Family and tradition always being foremost, the original Russo brothers passed the reins on to the younger set of Russo brothers, Louis, Michael, Nino and Anthony and their cousins, Luigi D’Aniello, Lella De Angelis and Victor De Angelis in the early 1990’s."
(Taken from Gargulio's website, for more information visit here !)
While a majority of the Italians in Bensonhurst are Italian American, 18th Avenue is the place where ethnic Italian culture survives. Crowded with soccer stores, Italian cafes, Italian record stores and the birth place of the St. Rosalina Feast, this section of Bensonhurst has been home to Italian immigrants for generations. On 18th Avenue, businesses are located on the bottom levels of homes, Italian is the primary language spoken, and European culture is preserved. Growing up, my mother and many other Italian Americans of Bensonhurst often did not venture into this area, knowing they would have a harder time communicating. For them, it was essentially another world. However, it is not totally known why there is a difference in immigrant patterns of Italians within Bensonhurst. It is observed that it is most likely due to the time of immigration from Italy. Noted in a book about Italian American stereotypes and demographics, the Italian American demographic in Bensonhurst caused "ethnic cultural dysfunction" where Tricarico states that "older cohort transplanted ethnic family traditions interwoven with American cultural patterns that reflected upward social mobility. The new immigrants transplanted a more traditional cultural based on the domestic traditions of the southern Italian family. (Tricarico 2019) These later transplants were more likely to form voluntary asscoaiations with roots in southern Italian towns, noting that this "lived in Italian culture could be found at the heart of Bensonhurst on 18th Avenue. Read more about 18th Avenue and its delicacies here.
Italian Record Store on 18th Avenue in Bensonhurst still present today
Bari Pork Store located on 18th Avenue (Courtesy of the Brooklyn Eagle)
The World Cup in 2006 proved to be the uniting point between the Italian Americans and Italians of Bensonhurst. It was not only the day Italy won the World Cup, but it was the day that every Italian in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn and the world felt pride to just share in the culture. There was emotion, food, and lots of love. On that day it didn't matter where you were from, if you spoke the language or what kind of pizza you ate, it just matter that you were celebrating.
Italia world cup 2006 Brooklyn, NY (Courtesy of John Salvanti on Youtube)
With an influx of Chinese and Russian immigrants in the 1990s, the ethnic, cultural and racial diversity of Bensonhurst has increased dramatically. The New York City Department of City Planning determined that in 2000 just over half of the residents of Bensonhurst were born in another country. At this point, Bensonhurst had 77,700 foreign born immigrants in the which was the city's second-highest number of foreign-born people. For more information about the change in demographic of Bensonhurst read this or this or this .
Courtesy of NYC.gov, See more demographics here
While Bensonhurst has seen a lot of change in the past decades, the present restaurants, families and tight knight groups allow the Italian American community to continue to live on.
Courtesy of the Brooklyn Eagle