Cathy’s Trans Canada Trail, Part Two

Port Hastings: the adventure begins

With the Causeway in my rear-view mirror, I veered left at the roundabout in Port Hastings and under a highway sign denoting, “Inverness, Port Hood, Margaree Forks.”

The sign also indicated the road as Route 19 and the Ceilidh Trail. Earlier research revealed the drive would be about 100 kilometres long, wind its way along the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and, according to tourism ads, encompass a "string of beautiful communities and majestic coastline vistas bound together by musical traditions."  

To understand that last bit, it’s good to know that the Scottish Gaelic language and cultural traditions were brought to the region by Scottish immigrants who settled on the island in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, many hold tightly to their roots with the help of language programs, music and more. 

That history also helps to explain the bilingual (English / Gaelic) community boundary signs posted along the Ceilidh Trail. (Incidentally, “ceilidh” — pronounced “kay-lee” — is a Gaelic word meaning “gathering”. From an early age, I knew a  Cape Breton ceilidh  to be a place, whether a community hall, pub or festival, where folks come together to enjoy traditional music and dance.) 

Suffice it to say, when I turned onto the Ceilidh Trail, I felt in store for a good time. 

Of course, I hadn’t diverted from my normal course to Sydney to party. I chose the alternative so I could check out a new-to-me section of the Trans Canada Trail: the  Celtic Shores Coastal Trail . I’d read that the 92-kilometre, multi-use route follows a former railway corridor along Cape Breton’s western shores, from Canso Causeway to Inverness, with striking coastal views. It sounded like photography heaven so off I went on the Ceilidh Trail, with plans to make occasional stops to explore the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail, which is organized into  five sections with trailheads and parking  at each: 

• Ceilidh Coastal Trail, 22 kilometres   

• Judique Flyer Trail, 19 kilometres   

• Chestico Trail, 17 kilometres   

• Mabou River Trail, 20 kilometres   

• Inverness Shean Trail, 16 kilometres   

Troy Station Trailhead: a warm welcome

At the Troy Station Trailhead, birds of all kinds welcomed me warmly as the waters of St. George’s Bay sparkled in the midday sun. I gave my legs a stretch along the crushed gravel path, plenty wide to ensure easy passing by a friendly cyclist.  

(Hit the arrow buttons to see more photos of the Trail!)

Ceilidh Coastal Trail: a hot start

Not a kilometre into the rejuvenating stroll on the Ceilidh Coastal Trail section of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail, I realized it was quite hot and decided to return to my car for water. While rehydrating, I meandered to nearby interpretative panels about the Trail and the area’s history.  

Ceilidh Coastal Trail: history, stories and smiles

I learned that Hugh Skinner — one of the original Scots to receive a land grant in the 1800s — constructed a grist mill where grain was ground to flour. He and his wife, Catherine Beaton, raised 13 children, many of whom married and remained in the vicinity. It made me wonder if the Skinner and Beaton families I knew growing up could trace their lineage to the couple. 

Before leaving Troy, I spoke with Christiane Prud'homme and Claude Ponton of St-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Quebec, who were picnicking at the trailhead and thoroughly enjoying their East Coast stay. I attribute their broad smiles in this image to the humour I injected attempting to converse in French. 

Troy: wrapping up the first jaunt

I bid my adieu and retreated to a cool vehicle. “How ironic!” I chuckled to myself, passing trail entrance signs with various tips, including a reminder to keep hydrated. Obviously, I should have read that before hitting the trail! 

Thankfully, my first jaunt was a short one and my recovery from the heat speedy. 

Celtic Shores Coastal Trail: a beautiful homecoming

With each stop, I continued to be awed by the beauty of the place and how much I loved coming home to Cape Breton. Yes, the Cabot Trail — the scenic, 300-kilometre driving route that loops around a large section of the island — may always be the biggest tourism draw. But the multi-use trails I was sampling certainly seemed the perfect complement. 

Judique: touring the Judique Flyer Trail

When I arrived in the village of Judique, I spied a man who appeared to be waiting for someone, his T-shirt emblazoned with the Trail’s name. Perhaps someone who knew I was exploring the Trail had asked him to meet me there? 

As it turned out, longtime trail volunteer Jack Brideau of Judique just happened to be at the right spot at the right time, at least for me. Without any convincing, he offered a tour of a trail loop of the Judique Flyer Trail section of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail, one that included a slight tangent along a pretty beach and a meander by a pioneer cemetery.  

Judique Flyer Trail: a testament to volunteers

Jack beamed with pride during our excursion, acknowledging the volunteer groups that form an association that manages and maintains sections of the Judique Flyer Trail.  

Later, I phoned Blaise MacEachern, chair of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail team and the NS Trails Trans Canada Trail Committee, who also gave big kudos to local efforts.  

"The Celtic Shores Coastal Trail stands as a testament to the dedication of our incredible volunteers who tirelessly maintain this unique destination trail,” said MacEachern, also of Judique. “Their efforts, combined with the vibrant community collaboration, provide unparalleled recreational opportunities across western Cape Breton. We extend our heartfelt gratitude to all who contribute time and resources ensuring the trail remains a cherished destination for all.” 

I wished I’d booked a lunch date with Jack and Blaise at Judique’s  Celtic Music Interpretive Centre  to get more trail background and to see the facility, whose mission is to celebrate and foster the Celtic music and heritage of Cape Breton Island through archival preservation, education and performance.  

Michael's Landing to Port Hood: history and sunny skies

Unfortunately, the centre was closed at that moment, so I continued north, pausing at Michael’s Landing, the trail point named for Judique’s first settler: Michael MacDonald of Scotland.  

The late afternoon sun convinced me to motor on to the seaside community of Port Hood, where I’d booked a room for the night. 

Stay tuned for Cathy’s adventures visiting Port Hood, Mabou – and Kitchenfest!