The Wells of Popes and Farmers

Did you know that ancient  Etruscans , Medieval Italian popes, and modern  Midwest  farmers share some of the same cultural traditions? Here’s how:

Recently, I was standing at the Umbrò coffee shop in  Perugia , Italy, ordering a cappuccino, and for some reason looked down at my feet. I don’t commonly do that in coffee shops because I’m more interested in the chocolate croissants in the display case. I looked down, and saw that I was standing on top of a round, thick pane of glass. That’s odd, I thought, but further down – about 90 feet (27 meters) beneath the glass – was water, the groundwater of an ancient Etruscan well. The coffee shop owners had preserved the historic well as part of the décor of this modern coffee shop in central Italy.

The Etruscans were a remarkable people who lived in central Italy several thousand years ago. They were pre-Romans, and their civilization left behind incredible works ranging from fortress walls, roadways, art, artifacts, and groundwater wells. You can find ancient Etruscan and newer water wells (called pozzi) all around Perugia. There is an Etruscan well that dates back to 300 B.C. in the city centre, known as the Pozzo Etrusco, or  Etruscan Well , that is an engineering marvel (€3 for an excellent 20-minute tour). The well goes down 120 feet (37 meters), and you can take the damp stairs down to the bottom. 

Another ancient well is found in a most unexpected location - behind a classroom wall in the local  Montessori School  (it’s the original Montessori school, first in the world, that continues to teach students today). There are more wells around the city, one is located in front of the stunning 15th century  Basilica di San Domenico , and others can be found adjacent to several of the other 86 churches in town.

The Well of St. Patrick served that purpose, and is a beautiful work. It is 200 feet (62 meters) deep and 43 feet (13 meters) wide at the base. Today, tourists make the one-way descent down the 248 steps of the double-spiralled stairway which leads them back up by way of a separate stairway. Centuries ago, those same steps allowed donkeys to carry empty water buckets down the stairs, and full water buckets back up the stairs – without having to pass their kin on the narrow steps.

The most striking feature of the St. Patrick Well is the 70 windows circling the stairs. It is a remarkable sight – both from the top of the stairs looking down, and from the bottom of the well looking up. We splurged and paid for a €3.00 ticket to ride the  Funicolare cable car  from the  Orvieto train station  up to the St. Patrick Well. Italians sometimes refer to a spendthrift as having pockets as deep as St. Patrick’s well – I guess that was me that day.

TAKEAWAY: Did you know that Orvieto has problems of slope instability, connected with the characteristics of groundwater and the tuffaceous rock, on which the town stands? The igneous rock (called "tuff") contains debris from an ancient volcanic eruption, and also provides great terrain for truffle hunting.

Grace & I have Midwestern roots, and groundwater wells are used for drinking water and irrigation on farms across the region. Melt water from ancient glaciers provides that groundwater, and is brought to the surface by pumps. Groundwater has been, and continues to be, an important resource around the world as the ancient Etruscans knew and utilized. Next time you're ordering a cup of coffee, check beneath your feet – you might be standing on some groundwater.

Sidebar - What happens when groundwater overuse creates a crisis in the U.S.?

Basilica di S. Domenico - A church has been present at this site since about the 5th century. Construction of the current church began in 1304, and was consecrated in 1459. The adjacent cloister houses the National Archaeological Museum of Umbria and contains Etruscan and Roman artifacts excavated in Perugia and Umbria.

Duomo di Orvieto - The symbol of the city of Orvieto. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful churches in Italy. It is a magnificent building that brings together various architectural styles. The construction began in 1290 with the support of both the Catholic Church and the city.

Etruscan well - One of many found around the City of Perugia. It was constructed in the 3rd century B.C. and is a model of engineering. The top of the well is covered with travertine blocks that include two massive beams. The wells served residents for centuries.

Etruscans - A powerful and wealthy civilization in ancient Italy which extended from 700 B.C. to around 400 A.D. It was a major Mediterranean trading power and had rich mineral resources. Etruscan art is prized and found in museums throughout Perugia and central Italy.

Funicolare cable car - Orvieto’s funicular connects the railway station with the historic City Centre. It carries passengers along a 580-meter (1,900-foot) route excavated through the volcanic tufa rock. 

Midwest - Agricultural region of the central U.S. including states such as Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois and Indiana.

Monte Fumaiolo - The mountain that gives life to the Tiber River. It is located in the Appennino Tosco-Emiliano in the region of Emilia-Romagna. Its altitude is 1,407 meters (4,616 feet).

Montessori School - The Schools of Montessori is present all over the world and it's famous for its educational method which puts the children at the centre of the educational system.

Orvieto - A city located in southwestern Umbria located at the summit of a large butte of volcanic tuff. The city of approximately 20,000 is surrounded by ancient defensive walls.

Perugia - The capitol city of Umbria located in central Italy. It is located about 100 miles (160 km) north of Rome, and 90 miles (145 km) southeast of Florence. It is an ancient hilltop, but now a modern university city with approximately 165,000 residents. The University of Perugia (35,000 students), the University for Foreigners in Perugia (5,000 students), and smaller colleges create a rich cultural, food, and arts environment.

Tiber River - The third longest river in Italy which flows generally from Perugia to Rome and the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is the main watercourse in the city of Rome.

Tyrrhenian Sea - Part of the Mediterranean Sea off the western coast of Italy. It's the sea in which the Tiber River ends.

Umbria - This region in central Italy has many hills, mountains, plains and river valleys. It is often called the Green Heart of Italy because of its rich agricultural heritage of wine, olives and vegetables. The Tiber River flows through the region of Rome. Umbrians have a passion for football (soccer).

Well of St. Patrick - A historic well in Orvieto, Umbria, constructed between 1527 and 1537 at the direction of Pope Clement VII. It provided the city’s water supply in case of a siege. The name was inspired by medieval legends that St. Patrick’s Purgatory in Ireland was an entryway down to Purgatory, indicating something very deep.

1) How is big data used to determine groundwater issues in Umbria? Climate change influences the hydrological cycle which directly effects groundwater resources, one of the most important supplies for human consumption and irrigation. Therefore, it is crucial to correlate quantitive climate trends, precipitation and groundwater behavior. ( http://www.crc.unipg.it/files/waterresources/documenti/2017-12-11-icr5.pdf )

2) How is groundwater quality protected in Umbria? In the Umbria region, a number of small groundwater resources are used to supply drinkable water to customers. Regulations for the safe use of drinking water resources are created to protect the area surrounding wells and springs from contamination.( https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1878029615001401 )

Grace & Tom Cech live in Fort Collins, Colorado, and recently lived in Perugia, Italy, teaching and working on a variety of projects for the Water Resources Research and Documentation Center (WARREDOC) at the Università per Stranieri di Perugia – the local international university. Tom teaches at Metropolitan State University of Denver, and Grace has a background in art history and family and consumer science, with an emphasis on the art of food. The WARREDOC prepared all story maps and digital content for this blog.