Anne Lister: The Mountaineer
Anne Lister was an accomplished mountaineer, climber and hiker. Here are some of her documented adventures in her own words.
Through Her Eyes
Anne Lister , the famous 19th-century Yorkshire landowner, saw and accomplished much on her many travels around Europe. She scaled mountains with her skirts tied up around her legs, hiked miles in treacherous weather, and crossed glaciers in crampons tied to her boots. She blazed many trails and was often the first person to do so. We know this because, just as with other aspects of her life, her journals include extensive detail on her expeditions. The adventures included here demonstrate Anne's impressive mountaineering endeavours and are a testament to her ambition and athleticism.
This article features some of her known ascents. Most were completed, but we have also included others that were planned but never realised due to changes in the weather (or in one case, an earthquake!). The transcripts nonetheless show how such endeavours were approached by Anne, and, should she have lived, Anne would no doubt have ‘climbed every mountain’.
After summiting Mount Vignemale in August 1838 , Anne reflected:
"I have made each ascent for my pleasure, not for éclat. What is éclat to me? What is éclat to anyone? "
It is clear that she enjoyed the personal challenge, and her tenacity to push herself physically comes as no surprise when you consider her remarkable dedication and discipline in other areas of her life.
World Map
This map includes all of Anne's known completed, attempted and intended climbs. Even by modern standards, this is an impressive tally.
The Excursions
Anne, as ever, documented her excursions in her daily personal journal and her travel journals (often more portable notebooks used for recording trip details while travelling). Edited extracts are included below for each location.
Snowdon, Wales
15th July 1822
Elevation: 1,085m (3,560 ft)
Mount Snowdon, situated in Snowdonia National Park, is the highest peak in Wales. It is also the highest peak in the British Isles outside of the Scottish Highlands. She was joined in this climb by her 57-year old aunt, Anne, who - much to everyone’s surprise - also managed to reach the summit.
Anne's Journal
'Off to Snowdon at 2 p.m. went in the gig (the guide mounted behind us) as far as we had to go on the Beddgelert road i.e. 4 ¼ miles, and sent George back with the horses - Began the ascent on foot at 3, and gained the highest point of the highest summit Wydfa (a distance of 5 miles) in 3 40/60 hour.
We had hoped to see the sun set, but this was prevented by intervening clouds - we saw however a magnificent prospect - seven lakes immediately among the Snowdonian Mountains - the Menai straights - the bays of Cardigan and Caernarvon, Anglesea, etc etc the ascent was much easier than I expected - no danger attending it, and the exertion required more on account of the length of the way than anything else - our last part of the ascent for a considerable distance (just above the glas-lyn lake, and passing by the copper works which have killed the fish and turned green the waters of this lake) was along an artificial path 5 feet wide, cut in traverses, which brought us up to the ridge, as it were, on which stands the pointed summit Wydfa - the first view is certainly most striking, and altogether we thought ourselves well repaid for our trouble.
Neither the guide (Evan Jones) nor I expected my aunt to go to the top, and therefore took a boy with us to conduct her to Llanberis - As we went along in the gig we had perceived 2 men on horseback after us - they rode to the pass of Llanberis, sent their horses to the village, and we soon found them at our heels going up the mountain - They contrived to join us for the benefit of our guide, to which I should have objected but one of them was the son of our Innkeeper and the others (a Mr Reid an attorney) arm was taken by my aunt and he helped her up the mountain and was in fact the means of enabling her to get up to the top.
Arrived there, we looked about a few minutes, and then foolishly sat down in the little hut on the stone benches - we were some minutes all the party felt chilled and took a little bread and brandy except myself - Indeed the 2 gentlemen drank almost all the two pint bottles of brandy our guide had taken at 3 or 4 different times of halt.
The guide meant to have taken us to Llanberis by Dolbadarn Castle a route of 7 miles - but, fancying that by going a shorter we might return to sleep at Capel Curig, we ventured down a very steep and difficult pass just above Llanberis - Had I had an idea what it was I should not have thought of her doing it.
However, by dint of patient labour and constant hold of the guide, she got down - frightened as she was, yet apparently less so than Mr Reid - yet tho’ we saved three miles of distance we were 2 20/60 hour in descending, and did not reach the little Inn at Llanberis till 9 40/60, too late to think of leaving it - the gentlemen returned to Capel Curig - we remained - had boiled milk and bread and butter for supper and went to bed.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/6/0026
Transcribed by Jenna Beyer ( @BeyerJenna5 on Twitter)
Borrowdale Valley, The Lake District
29th July 1824
Hike: approx. 11.5 miles
On this date, Anne simply set out to see the Bowder Stone , but upon realising that there was a footpath cut through the Borrowdale valley all that way to Wast Water - roughly 11.5 miles - Anne declared she would 'like to explore'.
Seven and a half hours later, 'at least 20 miles', and with only her early-morning breakfast to fuel this epic hike, Anne and her guide arrived at Gosforth at 10 pm, absolutely exhausted. They had gotten lost and the trail had been arduous, 'more mountainous than Snowdon'. On arriving at an Inn and explaining the difficulty in their journey to the women there, Anne secured a bed for the night and some refreshments in the form of a pint of gin!
‘She brought me about a pint in a decanter and some loaf sugar – I drank 4 glasses of weak gin and water – nay perhaps 6 for the gin seemed so strong however small the quantity I took, that in filling up the glass again and again, I drank 4 pitchers full (perhaps at least from 3 to 4 pints) of hot water’
Anne's Journal
'At 3 40/60 we were off – passed by the hamlet of Seatoller and the Borrowdale Wad-mine, and the hamlet of Seathwaite, over the Great Gable down to Wasdale Head [...]
The road much worse over the mountains than the ascent to Snowden from Capel Curig – very steep as James Coates called it ‘very brank’ down the Great Gable up Wasdale Head – The path cut along the side of the huge mountain covered with the very small fragments the size of large gravel, yet lie all along the mountain and so loose and slippery as to make the path doubly fatiguing.
First view of Wast Water 6 – a considerable plot of level farming land at the head the lake just under the mountains on which stands the hamlet called Wasdale head with a neat small church to which I understood Mr. Hutton [and] Mr. Rawson had given 2 valuable pictures and contributed 25 pounds towards the building?
The lake very unpicturesque as I saw it first – like a long square mill dam – and even afterwards when seeing the whole it struck me the mountains would have been finer without the lake – The screes on the east side are most extraordinary – the reflection so strong, the water had lost all appearance of water and looked like a continuation of the mountains downwards in this direction the top of the angle being the natural mountain.
The lower beginning with the bottom of the mountain and giving an exact picture of it as nearly to the top of the mountain as the breadth of the lake, or the breadth we saw, would permit – every break, every green spot, every shade of the mountain was as vivid on the water as in reality – The singularity of the scene struck me exceedingly.'
The full transcript of this arduous hike is available here .
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/8/0023 -0025
Transcribed by Kate Igoe ( @nakajimab5n on Twitter)
Mont Blanc, France (Intended)
August 1827
Elevation: 4,808m (15,774 ft)
Mont Blanc (‘White Mountain’ in English) is the highest mountain in Europe and is the highest peak in the French Alps. In the 18th and 19th century it became a very popular destination for explorers, writers, painters, and photographers. Indeed, Mont Blanc was the setting of the finale of the famous 1818 novel Frankenstein: or, The Modern Prometheus by Mary Shelley , which Anne had read and admired, describing it as ‘ Odd - strangely odd, genius-like, cleverly written thing’.
Anne expressed a great desire to climb Mont Blanc several times in her journals over the years. Alas! It was not to be, the weather conditions never seemed to be quite right to allow the ascent, and as far as we know she never fulfilled her ambition to conquer Mont Blanc. The Mer de Glace (see below) was the closest she got.
Anne’s Journal
28th August 1827: 'not one peep of Mont Blanc – begin to write at 6 – but soon gave up to see the clouds gradually clear off from the mountain – first sight of it at 6 ¼ – stupendous – astonishing – worthwhile to come all the way to see it'
29th August 1827: 'at 2 ¾ Mt Blanc a little free from clouds, the ½ moon seeming resting upon the highest summit – magnificent stupendous mountain'
29th August 1827: 'Mt Blanc peeping thro’ the clouds and towering like a giant above all his brother mountains – the range of Mt Blanc alone covered with snow and at dinner was cautioned that 'only 2 gentlemen have gone to the top of Mt Blanc this year'
30th August 1827: 'spoke to my guide seriously about my liking to ascent Mt Blanc next year – too late this year – there had been fresh snow – danger of avalanches'
Again on 21st July 1834 on a trip with Ann Walker this time, Anne mentioned in her journal ‘an end of ascending Mt Blanc’. Initially, it was difficult to know the reason why Anne was unable to attempt the ascent on this occasion because the pages of her journal from 9th July 1834 until the 21st July 1834, are blank.
However, Ann Walker’s journal offers a possible explanation. On the entry of the 14th of July 1834 (which is actually the 15th of July 1834 because Ann accidentally wrote the 13th twice), she says a party tried to ascend Mont Blanc and got as far as the Grand Plateau, where they were forced to give up the ascent due to a thunderstorm. Ann records that she and Anne explored the area near Mont Blanc, but the weather doesn’t seem to improve.
On the entry of the 20th of July 1834 (actually 21st July 1834 due to the previous error), Anne and Ann are exploring when a thunderstorm forces them to return to their lodgings for shelter. Ann writes, 'rain continued all evening, night, and till 3 o'clock next day'. Thus, this poor weather is very likely the reason that made Anne Lister give up an attempt to ascend Mont Blanc.
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/TR/2/0015 - 0016 / SH:7/ML/E/17/0061
Transcribed by Adeline Lim ( @LaFemmeAd on Twitter)
Mer de Glace, France
30th August 1827 & 5th July 1834
- Length: 7 km long,
- Surface area: 40 km2, 200m thick,
- Altitude: 1,913m
The Mer de Glace (‘Sea of Ice’ in English) is France's largest glacier found on the northern side of the Mont Blanc massif, in the Alps. It is formed by the confluence of the Leschaux and Géant Glaciers. The Mer de Glace was so named by a group of English men; led by William Windham , on a scientific expedition in 1741. The group were the first to ascend ‘the Mountain’ (now known as Mont Blanc) to a height from which the glacier could be clearly seen and accessed on foot. On seeing what resembled a ‘frozen sea’ they coined the name ‘Sea of Ice’ or ‘Mer de Glace’.
In 1827 Anne and the Barlows (Maria and Jane, mother and daughter who Anne had met in 1824 in Paris) ascended accompanied by three guides and three mules.
Later, during their honeymoon in 1834, Anne Lister and Ann Walker visited the Mer de Glace but had to cut their visit short due to rain. Both made brief notes about this adventure in their respective journals.
Anne's Journal 30th August 1827
'Off to the Mer de Glace – at 11 ½ stopt to let the mules drink at the Fontaine des Caillés ½ way – at 12 much Rododendron (rose des Alpes) what we saw so beautifully in flower – at 12 ½ arrived at the pavilion (maison des plaisirs) at the top of Montanvert – several goats about, and a shepherd there all the day.
Very arduous ascent – formerly one could only go about 2/3 the way on mules – obliged to walk the rest – about 2 years ago the path made up to the top – took all the 40 guides 100 days labour – the pavilion a little room where one takes refreshment, the provisions one takes up, tho’ there are cupboards there full of bread and wine.
Magnificent mountain scenery – looking towards the Mer de Glace (in front of us, and on the east side of the Mer) L’Aiguille de Bonchard, then ditto de Druis, ditto rectes, ditto du Moine (behind which is le jardin, 5 hours ascent from the pavilion and 3 hours to return) then La Petite Jorasse, then the Grand ditto, then the Tacul, then the Aiguille du Géant, ditto des Charmots – ditto du Grépon – the behind one is the Aiguille du Bletine – all these are the chain of mountains that one sees round the Mer de Glace.
Off to it from the pavilion at 12 40/60 – went above 200 toises (about ¼ miles English) upon the ice – no idea it was so great an exertion – the iron heels of my boots very slippery – I could scarce keep foot-hold at all in ascending and descending the very steep parts – the Mer de Glace extends 12 lieues in length – considerably less in breadth just under the pavilion within these 4 years – the larger blocks of granite one sees now left bare at the margin called in the country patois moraines – brought away a small piece.
Called the Mer de Glace down to about as far as the Chapeau, a very little knoll with a few (7 or 8) larches upon it, which we afterwards saw in descending le Chemin de la Figlia down upon the source of the Arveron – the Glacier des Bois from where the ice becomes more level, much descends almost close upon the village des Bois – gained ground upon it till within this last year or 2, but is now losing ground and becoming smaller.
One can get very easily to the Chapeau to look down upon the Mer de Glace, but must thence cross it to get to Montanvert – the crystals are found 7 lieues from Montanvert at the very foot of the needles – dangerous going there on account of the stones that fall from the needles – L’Aiguille de Drus the finest in the whole chain of alps.
One ought to go to the top of Mt Breven (4 hours to ascend and 3 to descend) for the finest view of Mt Blanc – in returning from the Mer de Glace at 1 18/60 sat a little while on the pierre des Anglais and then ascended by a longer but much less steep path than we had descended.
A French man and his wife and little boy who had breakfasted this morning at one of the table d’hôte while we breakfasted at the other were dining or eating their provisions at the pavilion – we had ours (I took very little) and we all became very cozy – they were going down to the source of the Arveron – we went too – the man at the pavilion was very well satisfied with a franc each of the 2 parties – off at 2 25/60 – not time to send our mules round – they went down before us – very steep – much worse than the way we had come – quite impossible to go it on mules – wonder how the animals could get down.
1 of the guides had one and the other 2 followed – ½ down heard the thunderous fall of an avalanche – at the bottom of this Chemin de la Montegna de la Figlia at 4 10/60 – the fine cascade from the Glacier des Bois forming the source of the Arveron – we had seem almost as well en montant this morning – the fine vault there was under the ice in the month of July now quite destroyed by the heat of the summer.
Sauntered about admiring the fine view of the Aiguille de Druis, and then down the valley to Prieuré – we found the French man sketching the Mer de Glace – we left him sketching along the Arveron, cross the broad bed of debris to the other side the valley and set off home at 4 10/60.
I was very hot, so had my mule led, and walked to the end of Prieuré when I mounted merely for the sake of riding up to the inn where we alighted at 5 ¼ –
Mrs Barlow’s foot sore from descending the Chemin de la Figlia, and both she and Miss Barlow very much fatigued – I not fatigued at all – in among this morning rode à la califourchon up the roughest and steepest ascents and thus saved both myself and mule exceedingly.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/TR/2/0017 - 0018
Transcribed by Adeline Lim ( @LaFemmeAd on Twitter)
Anne Lister’s Journal 5th of July 1834
'Off at 8 55/’’ and at Montauvert at 11 - walked about 1/2 way and rode about 1/2 the day up letting George ride while I walked - went about a hundred yards on the Mer de Glace, Ann between the 2 guides - as far as people usually do go - in returning, went to the damp, low cave (in the style of gollis but sunk 2 steps instead of even with the ground) where Pocock and Windham slept, on discovering the valley of Chamouni and Mer de Glace - on the stone or rock forming the roof of the cave is cut in large reddened letters “Pocock et Windham 1747” - an hour at the Mer de Glace &c. - then 1/4 hour at the Pavillion getting boiled milk, and off back again at 12 1/4 - home at 2, all of us having walked all the way down very quickly on account of the rain.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/17/0051
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Ann Walker’s Journal 5th of July 1834
'July 5th - Went to Montauvert, and on to the Mer de Glace, where [I] picked up a little rain before we got down from the mountain, had some boiled milk, and lay down on the bed for 1/2 hour.'
WYAS Journal Reference: WYC:1525/7/1/5/1
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Great Saint Bernard Pass, Switzerland
1st September 1827 & 10th of July 1834
Elevation: 2,469m (8,100 ft)
The Great Saint Bernard pass is the lowest mountain pass between Mont Blanc and Mont Rosa, but the third highest pass in Switzerland. The Hospice de St Bernard , which provided hospitality and shelter for travellers, stands at the highest point of that road. Large trained dogs patrolled daily and could rescue during inclement weather such as blizzards. When Anne visited in the 1800s, this was unquestionably the most elevated habitation in the known world. Indeed, Anne herself was almost in need of rescue when she got lost on the journey up; she says 'never was I so thankful for the bark of dog' to guide her in the right direction.
Anne returned to Grand Saint Bernard again on the 10th of July 1834 with Ann Walker. This visit is not included in Anne’s journal, because she never wrote down the entry of the 10th of July 1834, but Ann Walker included the visit in her own journal
Anne's Journal 1st September 1827
'Off from our auberge at 4 5/60 – we might have gone in our char as far as St Pierre (the next village, 1 lieue from Liddes) as well as to Liddes, but there seemed to be no auberge to leave the char at – our 2 gentlemen kept along with us – Mrs Barlow’s mule very slow – she rejoiced on my account and seemed to hold back – I did not like this – pushed on, and got considerably in advance to about ¾ of our way along the wild, savage, narrow valley (wild and savage from St Pierre – nothing but 2 or 3 cattle sheds afterwards) all along the rapid Drance.
About a league from the hospice the gentleman riding passed me – Mrs Barlow stopped, and lingered for me (the ascent now more steep – my feet a little sore, and I could not keep up with the mules always walking the fastest uphill and on the worst road) for about ½ league during which time all the rest had got far before me.
I was afraid of the cold making her ill, and so entreated to hasten that she left me, desiring the guide to keep me in sight – just before getting to the snow, he was afraid of her crossing it alone, and I sent him off – he said I was à deux pas de l’hospice, [close to the hospice] and must tourner à droite [turn right].
I did not hear but walked slowly forward always following the stream – it was now quite dusk, and on coming to the snow, I could not distinguish any track – walked a little way on the snow – on the point of stepping into a crevasse from which I could not possibly have got out without help – halted – looked round – nothing living to be seen or heard – before me a narrow valley of snow – on all sides savage mountains – the cold severe – hesitated a moment – then hallo'ed thro’ my hand as loud as I could – the dogs heard me, and barked in anger – how strangely, foolishly romantic, thought I, my situation – but never was I so thankful for the bark of dog.
The guide would have come to seek me, but the cold was piercing – I was warm with exercise – liked not to stand still – knew not which way to go – the dogs continued barking till the sound directed me right – got into the road, and at 8 ¼ met the guide just starting off to seek me, and Mrs Barlow shivering on the steps of the hospice looking out for me, having been arrived at least ¼ hour – great many people there – the stables so full, no room for our 2 mules.
Longed to go to bed – must first be shewn into the superior – 2 or 3 monks, and a large party of strangers at supper, and some sitting round the good fire – kept as far from it as I could – said I had walked, declined supper, and expressed my anxiety to get to my bedroom.
After waiting, sitting among all the people in the fear of getting cold for 10 minutes or ¼ hour, shewn upstairs – the weather beaten femme de chambre very civil – offered us supper but all we wanted was hot water – the house so full, thankful for a 3 bedded room without a fireplace – took about a tablespoon full sheer brandy (had brought some with us – will never travel without it) – then 3 glasses of weak hot brandy water, undressed, but put on my greatcoat and flannels for everything around felt damp and jumped into bed – had only just done enough to keep myself tolerably warm – had thrown my chemise on the bed (quite damp) fancying it might get dry by morning.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/TR/2/0020
Transcribed by Adeline Lim ( @LaFemmeAd on Twitter)
Ann Walker’s Journal 10th of July 1834
'Ascent all the way from St. Remy to St. Bernard - road better than usual up such mountains - arrived at St. B ….. [Bernard] monk very civil walked out on terrace and went to site of Temple of Jupiter, picked up a small piece of Roman brick - situation of Hospice rather picturesque, but cold bleak and snow clad - a small lake in front and here and there a little square garden plot on side of hill - air very cold, large fire in salle a manger'
WYAS Journal Reference: WYC:1525/7/1/5/1
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Albinen Ladders, Switzerland
14th September 1827
Elevation: 1,518m (4,980 ft)
The ladders of Albinen consist of eight well-maintained wooden ladders reaching over 100 metres. They connect the town of Leukerbad with Albinen over a steep, perpendicular mountain face. Anne started her hike from Leukerbad, the town she was staying in. The ladders of Albinen were once the only connection between Leukerbad and Albinen, but Anne might have hiked the 6.5km walking route. Anne had the choice of walking for two hours (the long route) or taking the ladders. What would you choose?
Of course, intrepid Anne ascended the eight sets of ladders up to the current lower gondola station of Flaschen Torrentalp, an elevation of approximately 1,518 metres.
Anne's Journal
'We having decided to go by the Haut Valais and pass the Grimsel etc. immediately all this arranged (meaning, if the weather would allow, to go to Turtmann this afternoon) set off, in spite of the rain, with a guide from here to the échelles – about ½ the way thro’ the meadows along the valley – the rest thro’ a pine forest steep and very bad, too bad for a mule – they said it was une forte lieue, a good hour’s walk – know not how this could be – walked quickly got to the foot of the ladders in 35 minutes – 8 of them – 1 or 2 having perhaps 6 steps – the longest ladder not more than 12 or 14? – too busy climbing up to count them – each step 14 inches? a long stride over such a tremendous, perpendicular precipice.
The ladders reared up nearly perpendicular from the little natural landing places in the rock against a narrow face just wide enough for the ladder, perhaps about 14 inches wide – once or twice a fearful bit of scrambling from ladder to ladder – the guide never dreampt of my mounting, but thought I could not possible descend, but should go to the village (Albinen) an hour’s walk from the ladders, and thence to Leuk where I should meet Mrs and Miss Barlow en route to Turtmann – walked a little way up the height – very fine view even tho’ the mountains a little wrapt in mist – when clear, the scenery magnificent – the course of the Dala thro’ a cleft in the enormous rock below the road along the valley to Leuk very fine – looked about me a little, but not having been able to bring up my umbrella and the rain continuing hastened back to the ladders – had ascended them in 13 minutes – descended in 11 minutes and got back to the inn at 11.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/TR/2/0028
Transcribed by Adeline Lim ( @LaFemmeAd on Twitter)
Grindelwald Valley, Switzerland
25th September 1827
Route and elevation:
- Grindelwald - 1,034m
- Alpiglen - 1,615m
- Kleine Scheidegg - 2,061m
- Wengernalp - 1,873m
- Lauterbrunnen - 796m
The valley of Grindelwald is in south-central Switzerland and is surrounded by mountains to the north, south, and east. To the south, there are two glaciers, the upper and the lower, which Anne goes on to critique during this rather long walk.
Anne seemed to follow Johanna Gottfried Ebel's proposed itinerary, specifically Route 24 from his book The Travellers Guide Through Switzerland (1820) which she had with her. This was apparently the same guide book used by another European traveller of the time, Lord Byron who travelled in the area in 1816 . Anne was quite a fan of Byron’s work.
Anne's Journal
'Downstairs at 8 35/60 and immediately breakfast in the public room – 3 or 4 other people there – walked gently forwards by myself and off from L’Aigle, Grindelwald at 9 ¼ – pass large good-looking white washed Inn the Ours, which as our guide afterwards said was for the Commune but the other was for travellers – we were well satisfied, or I would try the Ours another time – sat down upon a piece of wood reading and waited a considerable time.
At 11 ¾ a few chalets on the little Sheideck – stop at one of them – see all the cheese-making implements – taste the milk and cream off the round wood clad-bowl – excellent.
Off again at 11 55/60 – at the top of the little Scheideck at 1 25/60 – fine view back from Grindelwald and forward upon the perpendicular paroi of rock of Jungfrau – in clouds – only see Silverhorn and the Monk – Sheideck signifies something that divides – a hedge or fence – of this mountains the side towards Grindelwald is called the Little Scheideck the side towards Lauterbrunnen the slope commencing from the Top, is called the Wengernalp – nice smooth grass – after all, do not much admire the look-back upon the valley of Grindelwald
(the village scattered and picturesque enough) – the valley too little wooded – too plain – cannot see the glacier inferior – the glacier superior looks only like a dirty patch of snow – but the high snowy mountains are fine and you see them well with least trouble from this valley – good road in comparison all today – all the way thro’ pine forests or along good pasture ground among scattered chalets.
No difficulty in passing the 2 Scheidecks – wait ¼ hour on the top of Wengernalp for an avalanche or for a clear peep of Jungfrau – (Leutchine Noir that runs down the valley of Grindelwald – and off again (from the top of the Wengernalp) at 1 40/60.
Feeling a little tired of riding, get off to walk (downhill, but good road not too steep, might have ridden very well) at 1 ¾ – immediately a little avalanche – had before heard 2 or 3 little avalanche noises – at 2 ¼ pass the neat Wengen Chalet where one may stop to eat bread and cheese if one likes – group of wood cottages below called Wengern – and Le Murren, the highest situated village in Switzerland, and Murrenback a fine fall of mountain torrent from the top of the rock below the mountainside scattered village into the valley below – At 2 25/60 fineish avalanche – loud noise – saw the snow falling down the rock so like a sort of spray-shower – and turn down (right) round a hill prettily pine-clad towards the valley of Lauterbrunnen leaving Murren above the valley (left).
At 2 ½ fine view down into the narrow rock-cleft, pine-strewed valley of Lauterbrunnen – the Aar seen like a little white speck in the extreme distance – now a little sunshine, luckily have had little or none before – the reflection of the sun from the snow is almost insupportable to the eyes.
Jungfrau almost clear – the Alps (pastures) all around studded with chalets and wood cottages – at 2 55/60 the Staubbach as seen from the Wengern alp en passant – a mere mountain ville – fall dividing itself into 2 villages just ere it falls from the top of – from the edge of the hoary perpendicular rock – at 4 look down from the top of of the traverses upon the neat church, the scattered, wooden village, the spruce, whitewashed inn, the narrow highly picturesque valley of Lauterbrunnen – the most picturesque scene today.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/TR/2/0037 - 0038
Transcribed by Adeline Lim ( @LaFemmeAd on Twitter)
Ben Nevis, Scotland
15th July 1828
Elevation: 1,345m (4,413 ft)
Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in the British Isles, it is situated in the Grampian Mountains in the Lochaber region of the Scottish highlands. Anne took on this challenge while touring the highlands with her friend Sibbella Maclean in the summer of 1828.
Anne's advice to fellow climbing enthusiasts who set their sights on Ben Nevis might be to bring a water bottle and an extra pencil.
Anne's Journal
'Off to the Top of Ben Nevis at 1 [...] the mountain seemed almost perpendicular nothing but a heap of stones - wondered how we could possibly get up - found that stepping from stone to stone something like going upstairs and at all rates, far less fatiguing to me than the heather - Fancied the high ridge above us the top - no such thing - the top a bluff head of rock, not seen till apparently just upon it - at the 1st rude artificial pile of stones on the summit at 5 ½.
Never in my life till today did I know what thirst was - had it not been for water about an hour from the top, I know not what I should have done - my mouth was so dry and swollen that I could scarce speak.
35mins on the top - went to the pile of stones heaped up at the far end of the summit - Looked all round - read The Scottish Tourist account - cannot think that even with the best glasses one could literally see from the German to the Atlantic - but magnificent view - Loch Eil and the fine Loch Linnhe very fine.
The deep rocky valleys at my feet - the red mountains, the white ditto - the green ditto and verdant glens, - very fine - not quite clear, a little hazy but not enough to burt the view much - merely to take off the glare an hour getting down the shiver mountains (lost my pencil going up) - obliged to stop again at the water - my mouth had gotten bad as ever again - from the moment obliged to rinse it at every run of water I came near - never suffered so in my life.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/11/0034
Transcribed by Amanda Pryce ( @AmandaDS on Twitter)
Mont Perdu, France
26th August 1830
Elevation: 3,355m (11,007 ft)
Mont Perdu is the third largest mountain in the Pyrénées, the mountain range that straddles the French and Spanish border. Given this location, Perdu is also known as Monte Perdido in Spanish.
Anne was touring the area with a friend at this time, Lady Stuart de Rothesay and her children. After spending several weeks in their company, Anne felt the need to get out and explore on her own.
Anne would go on to spend a lot of time exploring the Pyrénées later in 1838 with Ann Walker, but this was her first trip into this area. The text displayed here in italics indicates that this short sentence was written in crpyt-hand in the journal.
Anne's Journal
'I lay quiet but was not aware of sleeping - Charles roused us at 1 10/'' thinking it was later - had candle lighted - we 3 up at 3 10/'' and off at 3 20/'' walked slowly.
After getting about 1/2 way I began to feel much fatigued - we had gone at first as far as we could by candlelight, and it was 4 1/2 before we began to see well - shingle all the way some rather difficult climbing before getting to the premier dégres did it (straight up the face of the rock) to save us 1/2 hour.
The crête the 2nd dégres very difficult when much wind - in the narrow crest 50 or 60 yards or more by 3 or 4 [?] on edge of a high wall of rock - the 3rd dégre some very difficult climbing quite as bad as the echelle of the 4th dégres or summit - there at 8 in 4 40/'' hours - on the top 1/2 hour - very fine mountain view tho' Spain hid in clouds ditto the valley of St. Sauveurs and Luz - Fahrenheit marked 39 - put the thermometer on the snow.
Saw the green lake below - legend that a man refused to lodge a poor man and he threatened a storm on St. John's day at the spring near the tour de Golles at 10 50/'' I impatient to stop on account of thirst - the men breakfasted and I wrote all the above of today.
Off again at 10 35/'' and at the fountain close to the cabane at 11 20/'' - very fine day - sun shining for the last 1 1/2 hour or more - sitting on the stone I sat on yesterday evening glad to have finished my ascent to the Mont Perdu instead of having it to begin - feel a good deal fatigued - then had a little motion and washed queer in the stream - took a little hot water - tried to lie down - sun too hot - did not venture to sleep in the cabin could not sleep out of it - off at 12 35/'' took 1 of the bergers and descended the gorge of Ortessa - at the bottom in 1 35/'' hour at 2 10/''...the gorge magnificent.
very fine sheep and goats - and stream (originally from the glacier of Mont Perdu which flows by Golles)...'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/TR/6/0009
Transcribed by Kathryn Williams ( @KaeD_Wills on Twitter)
Col Ferret, Switzerland-Italy border
16th July 1834
Elevation: 2,537 m (8,323 ft)
The Col Ferret is a mountain pass between the Swiss valley of Courmayeur and the Italian Val Ferret, on a side of the Mont Blanc massif. The Col is the highest stage of the Tour du Mont Blanc. Nearby there’s also the Petit Col Ferret separating the Mont Blanc massif and the Pennine Alps and stands at an elevation of 2,490 m (8,169 ft).
During their honeymoon in July 1834, Anne and Ann crossed Col Ferret. Unfortunately, Anne Lister didn’t write about this in her journal but Ann Walker included it in hers.
Ann Walker’s Journal 12th of July 1834
'Breakfasted and off at 8 - crossed Col du Ferret, ascent of mountain very steep, got a third guide to top - beautiful view - after ascent, went along valley thro' [Presce] to Cormayeur, saw baths there arrived about 4 o'clock.'
WYAS Journal Reference: WYC:1525/7/1/5/1
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Le Brévent, France
16th July 1834
Elevation: 2,525 m (8,284 ft)
Le Brévent is a mountain located above the Arve valley and offers some of the most beautiful views of the Mont Blanc massif. Nowadays it is a popular ski destination accessible by cable car.
In 1834, Anne Lister and Ann Walker visited this mountain. Their visit wasn’t recorded by Anne Lister in her journal, but Ann Walker made a note of it in hers. They had both climbed a part of the way and, when Ann retreated to a chalet to rest, Anne went ahead and climbed to the Cheminée (a pass to the summit) and likely went from there to the summit.
Ann Walker’s Journal 16th of July 1834
'Ascended Mont Brevent - I walked 3 parts of way to Chalet lie down there whilst Dearest went to Cheminée, descent very rapid - walked all way down over to the Inn - stopped to get our little Model of the Mountains'
WYAS Journal Reference: WYC:1525/7/1/5/1
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Puy de Dôme, France
16th August 1834
Elevation: 1,465m (4,806ft)
Puy de Dôme is a young dormant volcano situated in Chaîne des Puys in central France. This type of volcano is specifically a lava dome, meaning it is a circular mound. The ruins of a Roman temple of Mercury were discovered in 1873, some years after Anne’s visit. Anne Lister, ever the keen geologist, managed to pick up a few samples of volcanic rock for her growing collection on this journey.
Anne's Journal
'Did not go out of our way to ascend the petit Puy – stopt every now and then for a moment or 2 to breath and look about and at the top in 1 2/.. at 8 35/.. – the guide himself never in his life went up in less than ¾ hour, and generally takes an hour when by himself – the ladies who went yesterday were 4 hours in getting up – what nonsense – might very well ride to the top even the way we came, and quite well by the Pariou this way we returned.
The heat excessive till we reached the Petit Puy, and then a little air – a little breeze and felt cold at the top so only staid ¼ hour – not a dry thread on me – very fine view towards Mont Dore and Pont de Gibaud, of the sea (coulée) of lava from the Puy de bois de cour to beyond Pont de Gibaud and of all the volcanic puys or mountains – among the rest the Puy de Chopine with its bare red two-fold scary front very striking – thickish towards Clermont but better today than yesterday.
I seemed to look upon a vast plain on which the sea of lava, and the Puys thrown together in 3 or 4 groups – the chapel (now scarce a stone of it remaining) was not quite on the highest part of the summit – 10 minutes from the top (in descending) got specimens of Domite [dolomite?], with specks of black and brownish yellow mica – at the crater of the Pariou – in a few minutes less than an hour.
At 9 52/.. the guide and George remained at the top while I (in 10 minutes) went to the bottom of it and wound up again along the side – the bottom an oval about 50 yards by 40 – a nice green plot of grass – the sides all covered with heather – a perfectly regular oval-based hollow cone, with a few loose lava stones at the bottom piled into 2 heaps one at each end – a rim of grass 5 or 6 yards broad all round the rim of the crater – and then all heather again – this the most perfect hereabouts.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/17/0075 - 0076
Transcribed by Adeline Lim ( @LaFemmeAd on Twitter)
Pic du Midi d'Ossau (Pic du Midi de Pau)
September 1838
Elevation: 2,884m (9,462 ft)
The Pic du Midi de Pau or Pic du Midi d'Ossau is a mountain in the Ossau Valley in the French Pyrenees. Despite its elevation not being as on par with other mountains from the same range, the mountain has a distinctive craggy shape that makes it easy to spot at a distance.
On the 19th of September 1838, Anne Lister and Ann Walker discussed the possibility of going to Eaux-Bonnes and ascending the Pic du Midi d’Ossau on the following Friday. On the 20th of September, Anne orders the mule that would be needed for them to comfortably travel to the Pic du Midi d’Ossau and reach its summit. However, they give up on going to the Pic du Midi d’Ossau due to fog.
This plan would finally be put into motion on the 21th of September 1838, when Anne Lister, Ann Walker, and their French guides set off to Eaux-Bonnes. Sadly, the details about the journey and ascent aren't recorded in Anne Lister’s journals, but she has apparently written about their adventures in a letter to Mariana Lawton. Anne’s commentary about this adventure impressed Mrs. Lawton enough for her to mention it in her reply to Anne Lister.
Anne’s Journal 19th of September 1838
'Dinner at 7 to 7 3/4 then sat with Ann read aloud a little from vol.1 Chaussenque (Pic du Midi d’Ossau) and talked of going to Eauxbonnes on Friday and ascending the Pic du Midi d’Ossau came to my room at 10 1/4 at which hour Fahrenheit 59º and rainy night – very rainy day.'
Anne’s Journal 20th of September 1838
'Josephine saying it would be clear sent for Markatt and the mule to go to the Pic du Midi – Looking at maps – breakfast at 8 1/2 to 9 1/2 – no newspaper – Off to Beaucens at 10 – the little mule had come to go to the Pic du Midi but far too much brouillard [fog] – [...]
Determined to be off at 7 a.m. tomorrow for Eauxbonnes – Pierre to be off on foot au point de jour and Charles to ride the mule with us.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/22/0023 - 0024
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Mariana Lawton’s letter
'Twice I passed & repast thro’ Halifax & inquired of you at the Inn, but I heard nothing satisfactory, all kind of reports were in circulation. I am glad to find that of Adney’s being first dying & then dead had no ground to rest upon, from the account your letter gives you must have brought her back a little Hercules, for no strength less than this world have carried her up the pic de midi de Pau .'
The full transcript of this letter is available here .
WYAS Reference SH:7/ML/1037
Letter Transcribed by Shantel Smith ( @ShantelSmithMDE on Twitter)
Pic du Midi de Bigorre, France
16 September & 18 September 1838
Elevation: 2,877m (9,439 ft)
The Pic du Midi de Bigorre is a mountain that stands on the border of the French municipalities of Sers and Bagnères de Bigorre. Nowadays, the mountain is crowned by an observatory built in the 1870s. In Anne Lister’s time, the mountain’s summit was accessible to adventurers in just a few hours.
Anne Lister conquered this summit twice. The first time, on the 16th of September 1838, she had decided to go for a walk up the mountain after an argument with Ann Walker. That morning, she wished Ann a good morning and set off to the mountain with her guide Charles. During this trek, she enjoyed the view and tried to find a path that would be suitable for Ann to ride up the mountain. It is also during this little adventure that Anne almost loses her trusty book by Vincent Chausenque, after reading a chapter of it to her guide while both of them were at the summit of the Pic du Midi de Bigorre. Fortunately for her, Charles retrieved the book for her.
After making amends with Ann on the same day she reached the summit of the Pic du Midi de Bigorre, Anne arranged for both of them to ascend the same mountain on the 18th of September 1838. On the day, Ann rode to the summit of the Pic on a little mule. Per their guide, she was the first lady to ride to the top and back down the mountain.
Anne’s Journal 16 September 1838
'Off at 6 55/’’ (left Ann in bed just wished her good morning) Charles on foot and on horseback for the Pic du Midi – very fine clear morning at the Pont de Tournebout in 3/4 hour seen and in 8 minutes more at the Pont de Vue de la Neouvielle – at 8 1/4 left the high road and turned up the hill, left, up the Montagne de Tou, and at the Couêla de Tou at 8 40/’’ – at 9 5/’’ had got up on to the Plateau d’Oncet – all burnt up ce tété – we have the Pic du Midi en face.
At the Lac d’Oncet at 9 25/’’ – I spied a berger – not finding anybody at the Couïla de Tou, and it being Sunday afraid we should not meet with anybody and in doubt what to do about the horse – if let loose afraid that being alone she would go home – if tied fast, she could get nothing to eat – dismounted and left her with the berger.
At 9 35/’’ just above the Lac, at the Brêche de Cinq Ours (1 1/2 hour from here to Tramesaïgues – very passable for horses) at 9 42/’’ and Charles stopt to eat a little I got upon a little pointed butte of rock just behind (at the head of) the lac looking down over it, and on my left looking upon the Brêche de 5 ours by which people sometimes go from the Pic du Midi by Tramesaïgues to Bagnères de Bigorre not a tree to be seen – all ragged and bare – good view of the Neouvielle and its glaciers.
Off again at 9 50/’’ – at the top at 11 having varied a little from [the] common route in seeking for a path by which Ann could pass on horseback.'
Anne’s journal of the 18 September 1838
'Off at 8 35/’’ Charles following us on the little mule we had before and Pierre walking alone before till we soon came up with Henri Charles’ beau frère and Markatt Pierre’s beau frère to help to get Ann up to the top of the Pic on the little mule. [...]
At 10 turn, left, up the Montagne de Tou to the 2 cabanes de Tou – At the Lac d’Oncet at 11 10/’’ and frightened by a few drops of rain – alighted – Ann put on her cloak and I my cape – then remounted – doubted whether to go to the cabane – it cleared a little – the guides ate their breakfast and I determined to have our horses with the shepherd boy that we had called to us, and to go to the brêche de Cinq Ours - we had passed a gentleman on horseback with one guide just before our reaching the lake – he said he had returned because he could see nothing (the guide said he had not gone to the top on account of the brouillard)
Off again in 25 minutes at 11 35/’’ the men having breakfasted – Ann on the mule with my saddle, and I on foot – At the brêche de Cinq Ours at 11 50/’’ the rain had come on again five or six minutes before – and the brêche was full of brouillard – we took shelter under a rock 1/4 hour till it was fair, and en route again at 12 5/’’ – as we passed the Gorge d’Esponne and the great cleft in the rock above it we passed the brouillard quite close at our feet – it seemed abutting against the rock as if impeded and not able to rise above it.
At 12 40/’’ the rain came on again almost immediately succeeded by hail which accompanied us to the top with wind from the West but not strong enough to make my umbrella unmanageable till 5 or 6 minutes from the Tour, butte, or colonne as Charles calls it.
At the top at 1 13/’’ – Ann rode round the colonne but did not alight – too cold and haily and windy – brouillard all round – the men ate a morsel – I crept into the hutte, and tore down and brought away a newspaper-shred, dated 27 August, a quotation from a speech made by Lord John Russel the 18th March 1824, contrasting our ancient greatness with our then littleness – the which contrast more lamentably true now than ever – Ann starved.
Began the descent at 1 18/’’ – in about 1/4 hour it began to clear a little and at 1 3/4 was fair and fine (a little sun) au dessus la laquette (what Chaussenque calls the Plan d’Aube) where we stood 1/4 hour looking about us – seeing a little of Neouvielle, and seeing very well and instructively the pics de Caubère, Ereslitz, and Ayré and bits of the St. Sauveur mountains. [...]
Stopt on the Tourmalet road at 3 1/4 – changed the saddles – Ann mounted her horse, and I mine, and Charles the little mule, which had carried Ann every inch of the way from the Lac d’Oncet up to, and round the colonne on the summit of the Pic, and all down again to here! One gentleman some time ago did the same thing for a wager, but no other person except himself and Ann had done the like – Charles would have this ‘ecris sur les journaux pour encourager les etrangers’!'
En route again in ten minutes at 3 25/’’ – gave Charles 16/- (sixteen francs) 1/- paid to the shepherd boy for taking care of the horses 5/- each for Henri and Markatt and 5/- between them extra to drink Ann’s health on being the 1st lady who had ridden all the way up to and down from the pic.'
WYAS Reference SH:7/ML/E/22/0021
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Pic du Piméné, France
24th July 1838
Elevation: 2,801m (9,190 ft)
The Pic du Piméné is a ridge located to the east side of the Cirque de Gavarnie. This Pic offers a breathtaking view of the mountains around it, such as the Vignemale and Mont Perdu.
Anne, Ann, and their guides set off to the Piméné on the 24th of July 1838 after a meagre breakfast. Anne thought she could handle the trek until they stopped, but she was proved wrong and, after a quick bite, she realized the food disagreed with her. Feeling bilious, Anne made it to the Summit of the ridge but, on the way down, Charles (her guide) lent her a hand for safety. Ann Walker, who had decided to stay back and wait for them at the summit of the Petit Piméné, averted her eyes from their descent. Fortunately, all ended up well and both Anne and Ann were satisfied with their adventure.
Anne's Journal
We had walked or climbed about 10 mins. or 1/4 hour and were halting on a little bit of level when my horse came frisking up to us having scrambled up somehow – the opportunity too good to be lost – Ann was mounted – the bridle had been taken off to let the animal graze but the halter was round its neck – and Ann literally rode to within a very short distance of the Petit Pic – for we arrived there at 1 48/’’ and out of the 48 mins. from the time of alighting at 1 she had only walked 18 mins.
A few stone rudely piled together to mark the Petit to which we had had about 1/4 hour of scramble up the bare, scaly (argillo schistéuse) rock with here and there little white saxifragae and a very pretty little pink flower and pencil geranium &c. growing on the little ledges – very fine, magnificent view from the petit pic of the Marboré, the Cirque de Gavarnie and all the sea of snow-spotted mountain tops around, and here we sat down.
I saw that Ann’s head would not, even if her legs would, carry her much higher; for the crête was indeed a crête a giddy narrow ridge along which I felt that my own head in its then aching state would not be trop forte [too strong] – my breakfast had disagreed with me and I had more or less a bilious head-ache for the last couple of hours.
Advised Ann’s not going higher and she willingly took my advice; and we left Pièrre with her, and in seven mins at 1 58/’’ had reached the summit – it was a glorious sight to look upon – A noble congregation of mountain tops – Vignemale and its glacier the largest in the Pyrenees – the Marboré and its cirque, and its cascade – but the Pic d’Astazou hid the glacier-vallou of its source, and thus shut out 1/3 (400ft.) of its fall – Mont Perdu shewing his head quite clear and towering Spanish mountains formed a fine background on each side the Marboré – the Port de Bouchero seemed easy – snow lying near the top; but Charles said it did reach the road and Ann would get on well tomorrow – the higher valley of Las Espessières seemed parallel with the valley of the Porte de Couchero (sic) [Bouchero] – Charles pointed out the spot where lay the cabane at which we were to sleep [...]
The fine clear [air] on the summit had rather relieved my head, so that I got down again in 7 minutes between then I had got up – not difficult climbing but so precipitous my head would scarcely carry me – Charles walked down and bade me do the same which I did in fact he taking hold of my hand saying n’ayez pas peur – Marchez hardiement [do not be afraid - walk boldly] – as we stept cautiously from ledge to ledge – but on getting back to Ann, and looking up again, I felt as if I could not tell how we had managed to get up – the crête is so narrow one cannot go along it without seeing down the precipice on each side – poor Ann turned her head away, and could not bear to see us come down.
The grand pic seems a cone with just one ridgy line 4 or 5 feet or less broad so ledgy that one get up – the area at the top is very small indeed rather oval – perhaps 6 or 7 yards the smaller diameter and 10 or 11 the larger – if so much – the whole of the cone or pic quite bare – Left the high pic at 2 25/’’ Friday 27 July – back again to Ann at 2 32/’’.
WYAS Reference SH:7/ML/E/21/0151 - 0152
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Mont Vignemale, France
7th August 1838
Elevation: 3,298m (10,820 ft)
Vignemale is the largest peak in the French Pyrénées. In 1838, when Anne Lister set her sights on it, the summit had not yet been accessed via the French side and it was reportedly impossible to do so. However, after enquiring about this while staying in the Gavarnie region with her wife Ann Walker, Anne met a guide who claimed that it was indeed possible to ascend from the French side and agreed to take her. This guide, Henri Cazaux, had discovered a route to the summit some years prior when he was commissioned to do so in order to guide two men to the summit.
Anne's ascent of Vignemale was supposed to happen the day after they reached the summit of the Pic du Piméné, but it was cancelled by bad weather and low fog on the mountain. Anne then decided to attempt the climb again a few days later, when she had it all settled with the guides.
Everything is eventually settled and, on the 5th of August 1838, Anne is ready to go. However, poor weather delays her ascent again. She writes to her Gèdre guide (Cazaux) and tells him she’ll be at the Cabane that evening if the weather was suitable for an ascent on the following day. If that wasn’t the case, she would attempt the climb on the first favourable day afterwards.
On the 6th of August, Anne hears about the Prince de La Moscowa’s plan to attempt a climb on the following Thursday, in bad or good weather. Her guides tell her that they’re confident the weather will improve, so Anne settles to go to the Cabane that same afternoon and gets ready. Ann insists on Anne taking her crampons. At the Cabane of Saoussats Dabats, Anne muses about leaving Ann “dull and perhaps anxious about me for my own and what I was going to attempt” but she was determined to bring her plan to completion. The race to the summit of Mt. Vignemale had started at last.
Anne Lister reached Mt. Vignemale on the 7th of August 1838. The climb took its toll on her after a mostly sleepless night, but she persisted and conquered that summit. Ann would meet her in the morning of the 8th of August 1838 and they set off to Spain.
On their return from Spain, Anne and Ann learn from their guides that Cazaux had fooled the Prince de la Moscowa and told him that Anne had never reached the summit of Vignemale and, instead, had been sick on the glacier and never reached the top. This, of course, upset Anne and she refused to pay Cazaux for her work as her guide without clearing the whole thing up. She sends her guide, Charles, to talk to the Prince. On Charles’ return, Anne learns that Cazaux had written a letter to the Prince saying that she had not reached the summit of Vignemale. Per Charles, the Prince didn’t believe that he had been deceived by the guide.
It is then decided that Anne would meet Cazaux in Gèdre at the Auberge and in the presence of witnesses and she would have him confirm that she and not the Prince de la Moscowa had been the first to reach the summit of Vignemale. Anne also intends to have Cazaux sign a certificate to attest to this. Charles goes to Gèdre on the following day, the 15th of August, to try and speak with Cazaux about the matter. In Gèdre, Charles learns that Cazaux has spread the false story around town. On his return, he speaks with Anne and advises her to seek help farther afield and tells her about two lawyers in Lourdes. Ann, who had been as annoyed with the matter as Anne, agrees that that’s the way to go.
They set off to Lourdes in the early morning of the 16th of August and get a lawyer to help them. He agrees with Anne and writes a certificate that she is to take to Gèdre and have Cazaux sign. After her return from Lourdes, Anne sets off to Gèdre to speak with Cazaux and he signs the certificate attesting she was the first to reach the summit of Vignemale. On the 18th of August, Anne sends her guide to speak again with the Prince de la Moscowa and show the proof that she had been the first to reach the summit of Vignemale. The Prince at last concedes that she was, in fact, the first and the matter is resolved.
In tribute to her great achievement in being the first person to reach the summit , (West Yorkshire Archive: RAM:89-92 ) a section of the route is now named after Anne Lister, namely Col Lady Lister and it can be seen on Google Maps .
Anne's Journal
'Took off crampons at 10 10/’’ – rested on top of 2nd crête at 11 1/4 – I lay down a little – Sun – put my cloak on and did not feel the air cold – Thick-clear all the morning except about sunrise and for about an hour – now at 11 40/’’ clouds gathering round – have given up Penticouse.
Off again at 11 3/4 – sick just before – at the top at one – then descended for 1/2 hour to see the rochers à pic and glacier and col and snow over which the Duchesse De Berri was carried and on the crête above which the men were lost 2 years ago – West below us the fine glacier of Vignemale at the foot of which is the head of the Vallée d’Ossoue, and the fine range of Marboré, Mont Perdu in the great distance East fine range of Spanish mountains and saw Penticouse in ascending but the clouds had hid the great distance where we got up – but we could not before distinguish the Port de Penticouse or that of Marcadou – North the French mountains seen but in a mistiness – a haze – clouds sitting just over them South the Spanish valleys a sea of clouds.
The cime culminante of Vignemale the plateau about ten metres long – three or more wide – but not really flat – rounded up on all sides – put our names in the bottle and began descent at 2 10/’’ – at 2 25/’’ down at the snow – at the bottom of the 1st snow at 2 38/’’ at the snow again where we had left our crampons, and put them on again at 3 10/’’ and off on snow at 3 20/’’ – over the whole and took off crampons at 4 – very fine sunny evening but delightful air.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/21/0161
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Mount Gaustatoppen, Norway (Intended)
4th August 1839
Elevation: 1,883m (6,178 ft)
Gaustatoppen, or Gousta as Anne calls it, is the highest mountain in the county of Vestfold og Telemark in Norway. Anne was on her last trip with Ann Walker, which led her towards Russia and finally into Georgia where she died in September 1840.
Anne was not able to fulfil this accent as she had hoped due to poor weather conditions at the time but it is important to note that if she had been able, she would have likely completed this excursion in the same way she had done many others.
Anne's Journal
'It seems fair and the fog is rising over the mountains – Signe de beau temps? – on looking over the Prutucul, pronounced protocol – found that the ‘Earl of Hillsborough’ was here 29 August 1833 apparently Lord Cantelup with him – and 11 July 1833 Sir Hume Campbell and Captain Rose waited 8 hours for horses – no fault of the people here – Baron von Nicolay with 2 sons and 2 daughters was here 18 July last – and in 1829 20 August ‘Le Cham. Dal Borgo di Primo Le Cons. de Légation Krag’ writes …
‘Avis aux amateurs des beautés romantiques – Rukand Foss. Il en coute de la voir mais on oublie les fatigues de retour dans l’aubergé, et on s’eunchit d’en souvenir agréable. Gousta. Elle vaut mieux de loin que deprès – on risque ses jambes, et son cou pour une gloire que l’on partage avec les chevres. Quand à force de fatigue on a atteint la cîme de la montagne, un nuage epais vous prive souvent du plaisir de contempler un tableau qui ne repond jamais à l’attente – En un mot, Le jeu ne vaut pas la chandele’ [...]
Our situation here very beautiful – our lake almost divided into 2 by a wooded line of hill and surrounded by fine pine-clad mountains one range rising up behind another – Gousta not visible all today – fair since noon, and even fine from about 2 p.m. but still Gousta is hid in clouds and mist – determined at dinner to stay here till 3 a.m. tomorrow and then go to the mountains or home again according to the weather, having sent a forbud towards the mountains for if we do not go, we have only 1/2 to pay for the 3 horses for ourselves and one for the forbud.'
English Translation:
‘Notice to lovers of romantic beauties – Rukand Foss. It costs to see it but you forget the tiredness back in the inn, and you are enriched by pleasant memories. Gousta. It is better from afar than up close – you risk your legs and your neck for glory shared with the goats. When, through fatigue, you have reached the top of the mountain, a thick cloud often deprives you of the pleasure of contemplating a painting that never meets the expectations – In a word, it’s not worth it’
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/TR/12/0015 -0017
Transcribed by Ylva Nilson ( @NilsonYlva on Twitter)
Translation by Pauline ( @Poluss77 on Twitter)
Source of the Rioni River, Georgia
19 July 1840
The Rioni, or Rion river is the main river in western Georgia. Its source is in the region of Racha in the Caucasus mountains, near the border with Russia, and the river flows towards the west until it ends in the Black Sea. With a length of 327 kilometers, this is the longest river in Georgia.
In July 1840, Anne Lister and Ann Walker toured the region surrounding Kutaisi. They set off on horseback with little baggage, a guide, a translator, and an escort. After they reached Oni and explored a nearby cave, Anne and Ann decided to go north towards the mountains of the Caucasus and explore further. At Rêbi (or Ghebi, as Anne writes) Ann is feeling poorly and they’re faced with a decision: going forwards to the source of Rioni or giving up and returning to Glola to sleep or finish their trek in the mountains and return to Kutaisi. Anne leaves the decision to Ann, who chooses to push forward.
After a quick break to rest and eat, they set off to the source of Rioni. On the way to the source, their party meets a large group of men who join their escort. As the day comes to a close their mountain guides decide to stop at camp in the mountains and settle for the night. That area was very remote and considerably dangerous. Being attacked by mountain clans wasn’t improbable and some people had perished in such attacks. Thus Anne is forced to wait a night until she can see the source of the river Rioni. To make matters more palatable after a long day of riding, she ensures Ann has as comfortable a bed as possible and settles for the night wrapped in her mackintosh in an improvised by made of her burca and saddle cloth with her cloak on top.
Early on the 19th of July 1840, the group was once again en route to the source of Rioni. They ride as far as possible, but then walk the rest of the way through vegetation. When they finally have the source of Rioni in sight, Ann settles down to sketch the mountains around it and Anne walks forwards to the source itself, which is located on a glacier.
Anne's Journal
'Off to the Source at 5 with an escort of 21 men – rode till 6 – then left our horses to the care of our man from Oni and walked forwards – not even a track – to avoid the rank vegetation tried to cross the rapid stream – threw a couple of young birch trees over one, and got over it, but could not manage the next – returned to the rank vegetation (of kexes coleworts tall coarse grass alder bushes &c.?) and at 7 10/’’ stopt and Ann sat down to sketch no cloaks come – the Source is from under the glacier, and 2 picturesque from high falls (jets) of water the one double or more the other to the left as we stand looking at in front of the Source – regret having forgot to bring compass and thermometer.
A cirque formed by 2 mountains having the glacier on the Col between them – the mountain to the right (East) much higher and larger the other shewing a bare point and face towards to the cirque, as far (as it appears to us) as 1/2 way down the mountain – the rest of the mountain a long grassy tail running down to close the other circular recess or bay that forms the head of our valley joining on to the Souanéthi mountains a nice grassy Col and then the wooded mountains along right bank of the river.
- a - lesser mountain
- b - glacier
- c - larger mountain
- d - grassy Col
- e - wooded mountain where the Ossètes lie hid.
The Ossètes lie hid in the wood, and fired upon the people some time since – not very long since – left Ann almost immediately and actually at the Source in about 40 minutes at 7 55/’’ – an arcade – semicircular arch 30 ft. span by 24 ft. high at the opening and recessing regularly down to the water which issues from beneath it a foaming considerable stream – a river quite as good as the Rhone at its very similar sort of glacier source – the water fills the whole breadth of the arcade – the 2 beautiful Gavarnie like falls (but not 1/2 the height) issue from under the glacier (left) of the arcade (standing looking at the glacier) and water in little rills or streams issues everywhere from under the whole of the glacier – glacier dirty looking – smooth fendillé – the 2 rocks and column underneath the glacier calcareous? but granite, and porphyry, and all sorts of stones, boulders, lie about – very rapid fall from glacier – 1/2 yard at a yard for from 100 to 200 yards? and all the way down to where Ann is sketching very rapid.
I think I have toiled up 1/4 mile at least – must be a fall of 200 to 300 ft. down to Ann? and from bottom to top of glacier must be 800 to 1000 ft.? water whitish but good tasted – 10 minutes at the arcade – the glacier, including moraine on each side, 20 x 30 ft. = 600 ft. broad at the bottom? – picked at a little distance below among the rocks, big masses, and boulders, monkey plant, and forget me not and a beautiful blue large flower geranium all in full flower and beautiful little thing a veronica, a pretty little low willow – wild red currant bushes and Col willow (the fine bright dark green myrtle leaved willow that I saw in Col) in the bottom.
Ann tired of waiting for me – overtook her at the Rocks 4 fine masses detached at some distance from where we had left the horses, and where, on our arriving, 4 groups of our men had run forward (3 fours and 1 three) and had picturesquely placed themselves to greet us – it was indeed a scene for a painter – the picturesque Circassian costume – the fine masses of rock – the scenery around the roar of the river – the thick woods – the tale of danger from lurking Ossètes.
At the Rocks at 8 3/4 and back about 9 1/4 to where we left the horses and – gave our 21 Carraous men two Silver Rubles for the 20 and an abasse for the one who had been more particularly with me – i.e. 2/20 Silver with which they seemed perfectly satisfied (très contents) – counted over our escort – had them all drawn up in a circle round us – wished goodbye but they almost all accompanied back to the bivouac – all this took about 5 minutes remounted and off from here at 9 20/’’ at 9 40/’’ pass another glacier.
At 9 55/’’ at the bar of dirty snow that runs across the whole breadth of the valley, and straight under which the Rion passes a length of about 40 yards judging from our riding over it, and perhaps the width of the bottom of valley here maybe 150 yards? Talus of dirty snow at the foot of several little ravines and water flowing from underneath – back at sleeping place (bivouac of last night) at 10 10/’’ – a glance in passing and the men all in one group at a little distance bowed low and wished us a good journey as we passed – good honest mountaineers – I would go all the Caucasus over with them.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/24/0158
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Mount Ararat, Turkey (Intended)
1840
Elevation: 5,137m (16,854 ft)
Ararat is a volcanic mountain in eastern Turkey. During the Middle Ages, this mountain was identified as the resting place of Noah’s Ark. It is a sacred mountain in Armenia and present in many Armenian literature works. The first ascent of this mountain happened in 1829, when Friedrich Parrot, Khachatur Abovian, and four others reached its summit.
During her time in Tiflis (now Tbilisi, Georgia), Anne Lister hears about Ararat and sets her sights on it. She starts to plan a detour into Armenia and a climb of Ararat. In the course of her stay in the Georgian capital, then a part of the Russian Empire, Anne meets Mr. Abovian and others who had climbed the mountain and they discuss their memoirs of ascending the mountain. Anne also gets more information about the ascent and potential perils and costs. She ends up postponing her decision as to advancing to conquer Ararat after she and Ann return from Baku. On her return, Ann would eventually give up the idea and she and Ann would travel to Kutaisi.
During their stay in Zugdidi in early August 1840, Anne and Ann learn about a powerful earthquake that hit the region on the 2nd of July of that year and caused severe damage and a large number of dead in the region.
Anne's Journal 5th May 1840
'Told Mademoiselle Kotzebue that I could arrange to attempt Ararat I would write to her – but if I did not write she must take it that I had given up the thought.'
Anne's Journal 6th of May 1840
'Had General Orloff and Mr. Spaski who went to the top of Ararat 5/17 August 1834 – they must have been here 1/2 hour and went away at 2 5/’’ – Spaski’s account much clearer than that of the man who came with Mademoiselle Kotzebue, Obuvian, or some such name as pronounced – Spaski slept at the village of Atchury and from there took 3 men and only went as far as the rocks 2 hours from the sleeping place, so that one can ride to within 2 hours of the sleeping place – the Monastery 3 versts out of the road.
Copy of Mr. Spaski’s little diagram [above] – shewing his route of ascension along the west side of the mountain rather winding from north to south – along a small river for some distance from the village – westwards, then turned along a valley Southwards. [...]
He says the best time to go is August because then the melting of the snow, chiefly in July, is over, and it begins to freeze a little again so that it is hard enough to bear [open] sans trop s’enforcer – when Spaski went he never sank above the ankle – Kuppfer tried to ascend Elbrus in June Spaski gave the man with the boeuf 3/- en argent and the other 2 four each, but said General Orloff they will want more from you – said I would offer them double – and should probably want 6 men 4 for baggage and provisions and 2 for guides – ox-man Mikerditch, had forgot his Christian name, the 2 others Johannes Aivazoff and Jeldar (pronounced Yeldar) Guhazoff (I think) inquire for these men at the village of Atchury.
Spaski knows the man who ascended with Parrot, and who came with Mademoiselle Kotzebue Obuvian, so some such name – an Armenian? who speaks German and married the femme de chamber of Madame Kotzebue – the account given by Spaski much the clearer and better of the 2.'
WYAS Journal Reference: SH:7/ML/E/24/0096 & SH:7/ML/E/24/0097 - 0098
Transcribed by Marlene Oliveira ( @moliveiradev on Twitter)
Anne's Legacy
Lister was one of only a handful of female mountaineers that we know of in the early part of the 19th century: the Golden Age of mountaineering is generally considered to be 1850-1900. The physical exertion required would certainly have been considered 'unladylike' for the ‘weaker sex’ at that time, and mountaineering, in general, was then considered a ‘man’s sport’ or simply a ‘masculine endeavor’. Anne even commented on this herself in conversation with a friend, reflecting on her ascent of Monte Perdu. ( 28 August 1830 )
'Lady Stuart and I sat up talking till 1 - told her the sort of place Gollis was and all about it saying I did not mean to say much about it to people in general for it was not quite a ladys expedition'
Nevertheless, some other contemporary women climbers included Maria Paradis . Paradis was a poor maidservant from Chamonix (a small town at the base of Mont Blanc). In 1808, at age 30, became the first woman to reach the summit of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe. As mentioned above, this was an ascent that Anne Lister was not able to achieve due to poor weather conditions. Paradis allegedly suffered from terrible altitude sickness during the ascent and had to be dragged the final part of the way by her guides. She reportedly told them ‘Chuck me into a crevasse and go on yourselves’. Thankfully they did not ‘chuck’ her over, and Maria Paradis went on to be known as ‘Maria de Mont Blanc’!
The Duchess de Berry (Maria-Caroline of Bourbon Sicile) was another woman climber, who was the first female to reach Brèche de Roland (a naturally formed gap 40m across and 100m high, at an elevation of 2,804m in the Pyrénées). The Duchess made the ascent with 30 guides and although she was carried part of the way in a chair, she did complete the most dangerous part on foot. Anne Lister, in 1830 on route to Mont Perdu, saw and recorded in her travel journal the Duchess' name carved into the rock at Brèche de Roland.
Anne Lister's mountaineering achievements are relatively unknown in their entirety. They are eclipsed perhaps by the fame of her magnificent 5 million word journal, her intriguing love life or simply because we have been unable to fully know about them until the Diary Transcription Project by the West Yorkshire Archive Service had begun to uncover Anne's life in more detail. It is entirely possible that even more of Anne’s daring adventures may yet come to light.
It should go without saying that Anne’s physical athleticism and incredible achievements detailed above, must not be overlooked when examining her life. Her sense of adventure, courage to seek out new challenges and desire to experience and learn from the world beyond the Yorkshire dales is truly inspirational.
One group of women who have been so inspired by Anne Lister are the Blister Sisters , who are planning to follow in Anne’s footsteps and climb Mount Vignemale in August 2021. Bon voyage!
Additional sources
- All journal and travel journal references can be found on the online catalogue at West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale.
- ' Sensing the Divine: Frankenstein's Creature and the Mer de Glace ' by Kristin Hogue
- 'Our Common Room in Geneva' and the Early Exploration of the Alps of Savoy by J.S. Rowlinson
- 'True Tales of Mountain Adventures for Nonclimbers Young and Old' by Mrs Aubrey Le Blond
- 'Les femmes à la découverte des Pyrénées' by Nanou Saint-Lèbe
- Women mountaineers: A study of affect, sensoria and emotion - Thesis by Jenny Hall
- Zurich Central Library collection and Office de Tourisme de la vallée de Chamonix-Mont-Blanc