Great Britain: Roads Less traveled

Leicestershire, England

A bizarre juxtaposition of an English parish church alongside a large, deep and active quarry. The Church is on the hill above the quarry however (it's built on top of an iron-age hill fort known as ‘The Bulwarks’). The sudden drop and lack of trees provides one of the best panoramic views of the East Midlands.

I lived in Derby for a while, and I would see this church in the distance from (it seemed) all over the East Midlands.

 Zoom out  to see Breedon on the Hill in relation to the larger area.

Wye, Kent, England

The North Downs is a ridge of chalk hills between London and the South Coast. Near Ashford in Kent, in the Wye National Nature Reserve, is a perfectly-formed dry valley known as the ‘Devil’s Kneading Trough’. It offers spectacular views across the Kent Weald and out to the English Channel 8 miles away.

A fun day spent here on a field trip with a group of students and staff from my old job in Derby.

 Zoom out  to see Wye in relation to the larger area.

Powys, Wales

Sometimes known as the 'Welsh Lake District', the Elan Valley contains a chain of reservoirs (built in the 19th century to supply the City of Birmingham), and an 'Arts and Crafts' style village. By car, bike or on foot the journey up the valley is spectacular. 

The dams played a role during World War 2, when the RAF tested the Barnes Wallis-designed 'bouncing bomb' here before it was used in the 'Dambusters' raids in Germany

A family friend lived nearby at one stage. My recollection is that as a kid we drove through here on many occasions. In fact I think it was only once or twice. It just made an impression on me.

 Zoom out  to see the Elan Valley in relation to the larger area.

Derbyshire, England

As railways began to dominate in Victorian Britain the Cromford and High Peak Railway was built to join two canals. An unlikely venture, given that rail ultimately supplanted the canals, it climbed to 1266 feet over the top of the Peak District joining Cromford to Whaley Bridge. It finally closed in 1967, and much of it is now a cycle and walking trail, 17 miles long, with spectacular views over the hills for most of that length.

It forms the southern part of the 73-mile long Pennine Bridleway, which finishes in Ravenstonedale, Cumbria.

A favorite day-trip location when I lived just down the road in Derby, often tied to a stop at the Barley Mow pub (see below).

 Zoom out  to see the High Peak Trail in relation to the larger area.

Ceredigion, Wales

My first visit to Lampeter involved taking a train to Camarthen then 2 buses… it’s isolated! This made it even more of a surprise to find an Oxbridge-style University College in the middle of the town. Saint David’s was built in 1822 as a college for the Anglican priesthood. It is now part of the University of Wales, Trinity Saint David. The university, the town itself, and the surrounding countryside, made the journey worthwhile.

I interviewed for a job here in the mid-seventies. I probably wouldn't have got it anyway, but I decided it was just too isolated for me. I would think differently now...

 Zoom out  to see Lampeter in relation to the larger area.

Monyash/Over Haddon, Derbyshire, England

The 'White Peak' of Derbyshire is a famous landscape of limestone gorges and uplands. Lathkilldale is not as well-known or as popular as Dovedale or Millers Dale, but it has a unique atmosphere. Heavily mined for lead from the 13th century until the 1850's, traces of the old mine buildings and dams still exist amongst the rich vegetation and scenery, giving it an eerie feeling of antiquity. Much of it is now a National Nature Reserve.

Always one of my favorite spots, and I revisited in 2016. Many of the old buildings have been swallowed up by the vegetation, but it still retains that antiquated feeling.

 Zoom out  to see Lathkilldale in relation to the larger area.

Dorset, England

The Dorset Coast is known for its beauty and the jewel is the perfectly-proportioned Lulworth Cove. It can get busy, because it is difficult to reach down country lanes, but the village and the cove are relatively uncommercialized.

Just outside the Cove is a dramatic stone arch, reveling in the name of 'Durdle Door'.

I have a recollection of visiting as a very young child. I went back some time in the 1980's and it lived up to my memories.

 Zoom out  to see Lulworth Cove in relation to the larger area.

Devon, England

This Victorian resort is on the north coast of Devon. The two towns are separated by a 700 foot gorge, with Lynton at the top, and Lynmouth surrounding a harbour at the bottom. The two are connected by a ‘Funicular’ cliff railway powered by water.

It is known as ‘the Walking Capital of Exmoor’, with a number of trails across the Moor and along the coast converging here.

It always feels like a long journey to reach anyway in the Southwest from the rest of the UK. This made it seem worthwhile.

 Zoom out  to see Lynton and Lynmouth in relation to the larger area.

Kinlochbervie, Highland, Scotland

The journey from Lairg, the nearest town, to the small fishing port of Kinlochbervie in the Northwest corner of Scotland, is 45 miles of single-track road along the shores of Loch Shin and through some unusual Highland landscapes.

A couple of miles North of Kinlochbervie is the beach at Oldshoremore. Warmed by the gulf stream, with pristine white sands and rugged surroundings, 10 people on this beach is a crowd.

My parents visited the Northwest of Scotland annually for many years, and this beach had a lot to do with why they would go back.

  Zoom out  to see Oldshoremore Beach in relation to the larger area.

Suffolk, England

Southwold represents the genteel extreme of the traditional English seaside resort. No Blackpool-style amusements here, but the traditional beach huts which line the sea front are much sought-after.

 Zoom out  to see Southwold in relation to the larger area

East Riding of Yorkshire, England

A road trip to Spurn Head (Spurn Point) can seem as if it takes forever, although it is only a few miles across the water from Grimsby and Cleethorpes. It is a 3-mile spit of land dipping down into the Humber Estuary, and is home to a large nature reserve and the now closed Lighthouse and Humber Lifeboat Station. The lighthouse serves as a visitor center.

A high tide in December 2013 washed away the narrow road, so the point can only be visited on foot, or by organized 4x4 tours.

My home town is 30 miles away but it was 70 by road before the Humber Bridge was built, and not on the way to anywhere. Consequently, I only visited once.

 Zoom out  to see Spurn head in relation to the larger area.

Coningsby, Lincolnshire, England

RAF Coningsby is an active Royal Air Force airfield in Lincolnshire, home to Eurofighter Typhoon Squadrons. Tucked in by the road is a small hanger housing the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight. The Royal Air Force maintains an Avro Lancaster Bomber, a Douglas C47, and a number of Spitfire and Hurricane fighters in flying condition. When they are not away at displays you can take a guided tour around the hanger.

The picture above was taken on my last visit. The Spitfire flew in while I and a group of sightseers were standing by the fence, and the pilot came over to talk to us.

 Zoom out  to see Coningsby in relation to the larger area.

Birmingham, England

The ever-changing face of the City of Birmingham is worth a visit in itself, but the 35-mile canal system is a hidden world behind the facades. Built in the 18th and 19th centuries, the canals were an integral part of the economy of the area at the time, but by 1980 commercial use had stopped, and they were falling into disrepair.  

 Many have been restored. A walk around them is a history lesson, taking you the back way from the bustling center with its restaurants and bars to some of the older industrial areas of the city.

I've been back to Birmingham a few times on visits from my home in the USA. There always seems to be something new to see.

 Zoom out  to see Birmingham in relation to the larger area.

Dorset, England

There are a number of hill figures carved into the chalk uplands of Southern England. The Cerne Abbas Giant, in all of its full-frontal glory, is one of the more eccentric. Although many people argue that it is ancient, maybe Roman or Celtic, the earliest recorded mention of it is in the late 17th Century, and it may have been a form of political satire.

It is managed by the National Trust

The satire was magnified in 2007 when a temporary outline of Homer Simpson appeared alongside the Giant:  https://www.theguardian.com/film/2007/jul/17/news1 

 Zoom out  to see Cerne Abbas in relation to the larger area.

 London, England

A small entrance tucked between the Foreign office and Treasury buildings by Horse Guards Parade in Westminster leads to an underground maze that is the Cabinet War Rooms . In World War II, the British Cabinet would meet here during air raids (although it was not unknown for Churchill to stand on the roof during the Blitz to watch the fighting).

Since 1984 it has been open to the public, and houses a museum dedicated to Winston Churchill.

 Zoom out  to see the War Rooms in relation to the larger area.

Alkborough, North Lincolnshire, England

Turf Mazes are an ancient tradition with vague origins, thought by some to be used by penitents, who would crawl around them on their knees.

 Julian's Bower is tucked away in a forgotten corner of what is now North Lincolnshire. Its origins are unknown, but it dates from at least the 16th century, and it is particularly special because of it's prominent location, on a hill in the village of Alkborough, overlooking the confluence of the Ouse and Trent Rivers with the Humber Estuary. On a clear day the view can be up to 45 miles.

A path from the Maze leads down to Alkborough flats. The river flood defences here were breached deliberately in 2006 to allow this area to 'return to nature'.

A few miles away from where I grew up in Scunthorpe, so this is one of those 'secret' local landmarks.

  Zoom out  to see the Alkborough in relation to the larger area.

Northumberland, England

Just south of the Scottish border, this 3 mile-long island off the coast of Northumberland is reached at low tide by a causeway. Also known as 'Holy Island' it became a Celtic Christian centre as early as the 7th Century, when an abbey was established there by St Aiden. The abbey has been in ruins since the 16th century, but is still worth visiting.

There is also a large National Nature Reserve, a picturesque castle and a small village, selling the popular 'Lindisfarne Mead'. Around 180 people live year-round on the Island.

The islanders included, at one time, my brother and his wife.

 Zoom out  to see Lindisfarne in relation to the larger area.

Shropshire, England

This market town in Shropshire is one of a few in the UK that retains much of its medieval fortifications, including parts of the old city wall, gates and castle. It also has a large number of historic medieval and Tudor buildings.

 Zoom out  to see Ludlow in relation to the larger area.

Woodbridge, Suffolk, England

The site of a 7th century ship burial, believed to be that of Raedwald, ruler of the East Angles, is here. Its discovery in the 1930’s, and the treasure trove it contained, created a sensation. Most of the treasure has been moved to the British Museum, including the famous ceremonial helmet. However, the mounds are still here, along with a museum with replicas of the treasure. It is managed by the National Trust.

On my visit, there didn't seem to be much to see. It was brought to life however by a really engaged tour guide. Enthusiasm is hard to ignore!

 Zoom out  to see Sutton Hoo in relation to the larger area.

 Perthshire, Scotland

Glen Tilt runs South from the Cairngorm Mountains. At the bottom, just outside the town that bears its name, this 16th century white castle stands out like a beacon against its surroundings. It is the ancestral home of the Earls (now Dukes) of Atholl, and was the last castle in the UK to be under siege, in 1746 during the Jacobite Rebellion. The Duke is the only person in the UK who is allowed to raise a private army.

 My father, a schoolteacher, used to run a summer camp every year in the Glen north of the castle, so I have particularly strong memories of this area.

 Zoom out  to see Blair Atholl in relation to the larger area.

Derbyshire, England

A 17th century mansion built by the Harpur Family on the site of the original Abbey, it is the contents of the house that are of particular interest. The Harpur family were classic British eccentrics and inveterate collectors. The House is as it was in Victorian times, each room cluttered with the collections of different members of the family.

 When it was taken over by the National Trust in 1985, they secured the condition of the house, but left the appearance as they found it. Some rooms had not been touched since the 1880's.

 Zoom out  to see Calke Abbey in relation to the larger area.

West Yorkshire, England

In recent history the Lower Don Valley between Doncaster and Sheffield was strongly identified with the steel industry and the Yorkshire coalfield, both now gone from the area. It is still utilitarian, but in the middle of the small town of Conisbrough sits the ruins of a delightful 11th Century castle. It is managed by English Heritage.

My train journey from Derby to Scunthorpe took me past this castle. I only visited once, but it was a favorite site to look out for.

 Zoom out  to see Conisbrough in relation to the larger area.

Suffolk, England

This watermill in East Bergholt was built in 1733 and owned by the father of the artist John Constable. Those who know and enjoy his work will find some very familiar views around the mill and some of the surrounding properties. The area, in Dedham Vale, is managed by the National Trust.

 Zoom out  to see Flatford in relation to the larger area.

Lincolnshire, England

Gainsborough is a small light industrial town and an old port on the River Trent (the Trent is still tidal at this point). The Old Hall is in the middle of town, and it is a surprise - A perfectly preserved medieval manor house built in 1460. It is owned and run by English Heritage, is open to the public, and runs special events throughout the year.

 Americans will appreciate that the Hall played a pivotal role for the 'Gainsborough Separatists' - a core group of the Mayflower Pilgrims.

I grew up 16 miles away, but, for no reason I can fathom, I didn't visit until after I had moved to the USA.

 Zoom out  to see Gainsborough in relation to the larger area.

Lincolnshire, England

Once described as one of the most overlooked tourist destinations in the world, Lincoln dates back to Roman times (as 'Lindum') and beyond. The castle was built on the orders of William 1st, and the current Cathedral dates from the 12th Century. The two are joined by the old town, which also stretches down the road called 'Steep Hill'.

Carved into one of the columns in the Cathedral is a small 'imp'. Various legends surround this carving, including that it moves from one column to another. Certainly it's difficult to remember which one it is on! The Lincoln Imp has become the symbol for the city of Lincoln.

It's position on the hill makes the cathedral a prominent landmark, visible for many miles, and much loved by returning RAF bomber crews during World War 2. 

Unlike Gainsborough Old Hall, I have visited Lincoln on many occasions, and still enjoy going back.

 Zoom out  to see Lincoln in relation to the larger area.

Derbyshire, England

Melbourne Hall was built around 1630. The Hall itself is a private residence, only open in August, but the gardens are open through the summer, and the estate workshops have been turned into a successful craft centre and tea rooms. A walk around the lake is a nice finish to a visit.

A favorite day-trip when I lived in Derby. A friend of mine ran a pottery in the craft centre at one stage.

 Zoom out  to see Melbourne in relation to the larger area.

Gloucestershire, England

A small 16th century stone manor house in the Cotswolds, known for it's arts and crafts-style garden, and the eclectic collections of its previous owner, Charles Paget Wade. These include Samurai Armour, bicycles, toys, musical instruments and more. The house is now managed by the National Trust.

 Zoom out  to see Snowshill in relation to the larger area.

Shropshire, England

I'm not alone in considering Stokesay Castle to be one of the most perfect small castles in Britain. It is actually a fortified manor house, built in the 13th century, and its survival is due at least in part to an embarrassingly rapid surrender during a siege in the English Civil War. Stokesay is now managed by English Heritage.

A replica of the castle (with the same name) is a successful restaurant just outside Reading, Pennsylvania

 Zoom out  to see Stokesay in relation to the larger area.

Lincolnshire, England

A rare brick-built castle keep, now managed by the National Trust, that dates from around 1440. The magnificent medieval fireplaces were almost lost in 1910, when they were ripped out for export to America. They were rescued at the last minute, and this led to new heritage protection laws in the UK. These days it is often used for medieval banquets and re-enactments. 

  Zoom out  to see Tattershall in relation to the larger area.

Lincolnshire, England

This was a large and prosperous abbey from it's foundation in the 12th century to the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539. The Abbey itself is little more than a footprint now. In the early 1600's the owner Sir Vincent Skinner destroyed much of what was left of the Abbey to build a large house... which collapsed soon after.

The magnificent gatehouse remains. It was one of the earliest large-scale uses of brick in England. It is now managed by English Heritage.

Although my family is from the area, Sir Vincent Skinner is no relation to us as far as I am aware.

 Zoom out  to see Thornton in relation to the larger area.

Oxford, England

Hidden behind the Oxford University Museum of Natural History (and accessed through it) is a large Victorian space packed with archaeological and anthropological objects from around the world. The core of the collection was donated in 1884 by Lt-General Augustus Pitt Rivers. The Museum is worth several visits, in part because of the breadth of items on display, but also to soak-up the general ambiance of British exploration and acquisition from the Age of Empire.

I lived in Oxford for two years. I visited often, but never felt I had seen it all.

  Zoom out  to see the Museum in relation to the larger area.

London

The Bankside Power Station was built across the River Thames from St Paul’s Cathedral in the 1940’s, but closed in 1981. There was talk of demolition, and of repurposing, but few people could have imagined how successfully it could be converted to house the Tate Gallery’s modern art collection.

 The collection is organized by theme rather than artist through eight areas. The Turbine Hall is one of the largest and most impressive spaces available for the display of art installations.

The pedestrian-only Millennium Bridge runs across the Thames from the Tate Modern.

  Zoom out  to see the Gallery in relation to the larger area.

Highland, Scotland

Not as well-known as the West Highland line from Glasgow to Mallaig, the Kyle Line, from Inverness via Dingwall in the east to Kyle of Lochalsh, is just as dramatic. Starting among rural scenery, it climbs across the mountains before running beside sea lochs into Kyle of Lochalsh, which sits opposite the Isle of Skye.

Some notoriety was achieved in 2009, when the line formed the last leg of the first-recorded £1000 rail ticket (for a return journey from Newquay in Cornwall to Kyle of Lochalsh).

 Zoom out  to see the Railway in relation to the larger area.

Kirk Ireton, Derbyshire, England

Tucked away in the hills of Derbyshire, the Barley Mow has been a pub since the 17th century, and it feels as if nothing has changed. Mary Short, the Landlady until her death in 2024, was there for 48 years. It remains to be seen how much it will change with her passing. 

I haven't been in more than 30 years, but from comments I've seen online it didn't change much during that time.

 Zoom out  to see Kirk Ireton in relation to the larger area.

Brockworth, Gloucestershire, England

Until recently the annual ‘Cheese Rolling’ here was just one of many quirky English traditional celebrations. The internet, and publicity about health and safety concerns, has turned it into an event known around the world.

On a Monday in May you can watch as groups of people hurl themselves down an insanely steep hill in an attempt to catch a rolling Double Gloucester cheese. Injuries are frequent.

My Aunt lived in Brockworth at one time, and we would see the hill as we drove by. I've always known about it as a local custom, but I never actually visited...

 Zoom out  to see Coopers Hill in relation to the larger area.

St Austell, Cornwall, England

Set in the bottom of a disused clay pit, the Eden Project consists of a series of distinctive bubble-shaped structures housing a variety of 'biomes', with thousands of plant species from different climates and environments. Opened in 2001, it is run as an educational charity.

My father was fascinated by the concept of the Eden Project, and I was able to take him there soon after it opened. He died in 2002.

 Zoom out  to see the Eden Project in relation to the larger area.

Derbyshire, England

During World War 2, a gypsum mine near Tutbury in Staffordshire was used as a munitions storage depot. In November 1944 around 3500 tonnes of explosive detonated. It was one of the biggest non-nuclear explosions ever, killing about 70 people and leaving a crater 300 feet deep and three quarters of a mile across. Although overgrown, the crater is still visible, and still impressive because of its size.

No-one is allowed into the crater, because it is believed that a significant quantity of explosives is still there. Consequently it has become a haven for nature, with over 150 species of trees and wildlife.

 Zoom out  to see Fauld in relation to the larger area.

Oxford, England

Headington is a bustling suburb on the east side of Oxford. Glance down New High Street from the main Headington Road and you will see some very typical British terraced (row) houses… At least they would be, if it wasn’t for the 25-foot shark that has apparently landed on the roof of one of them!

Created in 1986 by sculptor John Buckley, attempts to remove it by the City Council were thwarted by local support, and it has been there ever since. The house is now available as an Air B&B.

I lived just around the corner from here when I was in Oxford. However, that was before the Shark was installed, so it was even more of a surprise when a friend introduced me to it.

 Zoom out  to see Headington in relation to the larger area.