A Light For The Future of Pacific Bluefin
A story about a community, its fishermen, and future generations
Will I be one of the last generations to catch the magnificent Bluefin?
Is the existence of future Bluefin Tuna stocks assured?
Will future generations at Donggang be able to enjoy the resource of Pacific Bluefin?
The Story
The place
Donggang is a fishing town in Pingtung, the southernmost county of Taiwan. The primary industries in this area are agriculture, fisheries, aquaculture, and tourism. As of December 2018, 47,613 people were living in Donggang Township, just one of Pingtung's approximately 839,001 inhabitants. The population has been declining, as in all of Taiwan, due to the low fertility rate and overseas migration.
The history
The largest source of revenue for fishing in Pingtung County comes from Pacific Bluefin Tuna (PBF), a significant industry in Donggang. To transform Donggang's rural village into a tourist and cultural place via gastronomic tourism, the Bluefin Tuna Cultural Festival was created in 2001, focusing on bluefin tuna, now represented as cultural heritage and integrated into the local identity of the community.
The dynamic
The festival officially begins when a fisher announces the first tuna catch of the year. Since it marks the beginning of the festival and the tuna season in Taiwan, this catch has a special symbolic meaning and is auctioned at a very high price. The first tuna catch in 2022 was sold at an auction for NT$10,100 (US$343) per kilogram. Tuna auctions are a mediated spectacle in which locals and government officials participate. The tuna are unloaded during the early morning hours and taken to the central warehouse for auction. Fishers, restaurant owners, and tourists roam around the place, where you can hear a mix of Taiwanese and Chinese bargaining for the best price.
Price is not only determined by weight and size but also by the color of the belly. The redder it is, the more expensive it will be because this part is utilized in high-end sushi and sashimi dishes. To determine the right price for their meat, which fishermen and restaurant owners also refer to as "red gold," they are carefully cut open and examined.
Every year, the Pingtung County Government adds new elements to the festival to draw visitors and encourage them to check out the area's tourist attractions. Along with the fish auctions, there is also an outdoor movie theater that shows Donggang-related films, live music performances, and light displays along the pier.
The opening ceremony of the yearly Bluefin Tuna Cultural Festival has been held on the plaza of Donglong Temple for several years. The temple, built in 1706, enshrines the Marshal Wen Wang-Ye deity, believed to protect the fishers. The Burning of Wang-Yeh's Boat, one of Taiwan's most important religious celebrations, is also held in Donggang and sponsored by Donglong Temple. The triennial festival consists of inviting gods to earth, feasting, and pleading with them. The festival will culminate with the burning of a 15-meter-long boat, carved and painted by regional artists, symbolizing taking demons and plagues away from the village.
The significance
Thanks to the festival, Donggang has gained a favorable reputation as a seafood cuisine destination. In a Japanese tour brochure, Hankyu Travel Guide, the village is introduced as “the hometown of tuna." The Travel Guide states, “Donggang is a world-renowned bluefin tuna fishing base, and the summer Tuna Cultural Festival is a must-attend event."
The village has attempted to implement bottom-up cultural and community-based initiatives, benefiting many community areas, including fishers, restaurants, the lodging industry, and tourism enterprises.
Through the use of seafood as a cultural marker of regional identity, the Cultural Festival promotes interaction between locals and visitors while encouraging rural revivals, such as the return of migrants.
The festival gave us a chance to earn more from catches by selling to locals and tourists. — Fishermen at Donggang Port
Before the festival's implementation, most PBF caught would go to Japan, as its highly sought after as a delicacy used in sushi and sashimi. However, most tuna catch is now consumed locally, with just a limited amount of premium sushi-grade tuna still being sold to the Japanese market. The annual revenue from the Cultural Festival is estimated to be NT$3 billion (US$100 million).
A symbolic economy around tuna has been constructed through a supply network, reshaping generational relations and enhancing visitors’ experiences since 2001. The culinary festival has strengthened the community's sense of place, social and cultural identity, and a renewed interest in historical memory and economic purpose.
The Fish
Pacific Bluefin Tuna, Thunnus Orientalis. Credit: International Seafood Sustainability Foundation.
The Pacific Bluefin is one of the largest tuna species, growing to a length of 80–300 cm. From the minute they hatch, they are fierce predators, equipped with hunting sight, going after schools of fish like herring, mackerel, and even eels. Also known as the Ferraris of the sea, they are fast-moving fish designed for speed, with a torpedo-like shape, retractable fins, and eyes that are level with their bodies. Tunas have two dorsal fins on their backs and crescent-shaped tails, one of which can be flattened to reduce resistance in the water. They have one of the broadest geographic ranges of all tunas, from East Asia to the west coast of North America.
Almost all fish are cold-blooded (ectothermic). However, tuna are among the few warm-blooded (endothermic) fish on Earth: they can regulate their body temperature. Tuna's ability to maintain body temperature has several definite advantages over other forms of marine life. It does not need to limit its range according to water temperature, nor is it dominated by weather changes. The additional heat supplied to the muscles is advantageous due to extra power and speed.
The great Pacific Migration
Shortly after their first birthday, Pacific Bluefin embark on an impressive journey. The young tuna leave their spawning grounds and travel nearly 5,000 miles (8,000 km) across the Pacific Ocean to the California coast, where they spend several years feeding and growing.
The youngsters will spend several years in California, moving up and down the coast from Mexico to occasionally as far north as Washington State. When tuna reach the age of seven, many return to the Western Pacific to spawn in the waters off eastern Taiwan, the Ryukyu Islands, and the Sea of Japan.
Ecosystem role
Tuna keep the ocean in check. They underpin the ecosystems where they live and transit.
The bluefin tuna is an alpha predator, which means that it is at the top of the ocean food chain, as its size and abilities protect it from most of its natural enemies. According to a document published by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), Bluefin Tuna plays a vital role in its ecosystem since it consumes a wide variety of fish—herring, anchovies, sardines, bluefish, mackerel, and others—and helps maintain the balance of these populations. According to the WWF, "the ecological extinction of this species would have an unpredictable knock-on effect on ocean ecosystems and serious consequences for many other species in the food chain."
Resource role
Pacific bluefin not only underpin the ecosystems where they live but also the economies. They are among the most commercially valuable fish on the planet.
The Politics
You can't talk about the global tuna fishing industry without including Taiwan. — Hsieh Wen-Jung, former chairman of the Taiwan Tuna Association.
Fishermen at Donggang Port, Photo by Isis Calderon.
Taiwan's economy has historically relied heavily on fishing, and the island is a significant player in the global seafood market. The long-line tuna fishing industry still contributes the most to the sector's value. Taiwan's Fisheries Administration reported that in 2020 and 2021, the output value of PBF was close to NT$300 million (US$9,996,001).
Due to the "One China" principle, Taiwan is not a member of international organizations like the U.N. because most nations do not recognize it as a sovereign state. As a result, Taiwan holds an uncertain position in the international community. However, Taiwan's enormous long-line tuna fishing fleet significantly contributes to the economies of coastal resource nations. Therefore, international fishing organizations have no option but to include the island in the discussion table.
Following updated membership requirements and participation in bilateral, regional, and global fisheries-related agreements, Taiwan may now participate in the prominent international organizations for fisheries as a "fishing entity." The island is now a member of eight regional fisheries management organizations (RMFOs)—in which it participates in a quasi-governmental capacity.
Why does Mr. Chen contemplate the scenario of being one of the last generations to catch Bluefin Tuna?
The Problem
International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) categories list.
According to the World Wildlife Forum's last assessment in 2020, Bluefin Tuna populations have declined severely due to overfishing, climate change, and lack of enforcement and control. The stock is heavily overfished, and the biomass continues to be near historically low levels. Although PBF tuna stocks seem to be slowly rebuilding, the stock remains near the historic low, as a conclusion from the International Seafood Sustainability Foundation in the Status of the World Fisheries for Tuna in March 2022.
No matter how concerning this scientific information seems, Pacific Bluefin Tuna moved from "Vulnerable" (a category in place as of 2020) to "Near Threatened" on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List as of 2021 due to the availability of newer stock assessment data and models.
What's the issue?
The categorization of Pacific Bluefin as Near Threatened means less strict regulations in place. For example, the Western and Central Pacific Fisheries Commission and the Inter-American Tropical Tuna Commission have recently allowed more PBF quotas to Taiwan.
With an eye toward business and profit, this method of handling PBF focuses on the opportunity that a stock increase may represent for the present. It doesn't consider the bigger part the Pacific Bluefin plays in the health of our oceans or the potential threat to the existence of future tuna generations. There is evidence that the stock is growing as of now, but no substantive research has been conducted that concludes future stocks will keep on recovering. The regulation of PBF, therefore, is based on a speculative economic model for future stock existence and reckless anthropocentric handling of the species in the present day.
2021
Near Threatened
2014
Vulnerable
2013
Least Concern
Nature is not something humans can speculate upon, and we often fail to recognize this. Resources are by no means infinite, and the Bluefin Tuna fishery must be managed in terms of a sustainable ecosystem rather than a sustainable business.
The Red Gold - How much is it worth?
Toro, or Pacific Bluefin Tuna belly. Photo by Isis Calderon.
As warm-blooded fish, PBF have a specialized blood vessel network, which makes their tummies bright red. The belly meat is highly prized and sought after as sushi/sashimi-grade meat. Taiwanese fishermen refer to this portion as "toro" in Japanese and prepare it as sashimi or nigiri sushi.
Prices set on a single tuna can be exorbitant given the status of sushi and sashimi as high-end foods and the current global demand for these dishes. This year, the first Pacific Bluefin tuna caught off Taiwan's Southeast coast was auctioned off for a total of NT$2.1 million (USD$70,942.90).
There is no question that the industry's appetite for tuna has taken a toll on the species, high demand in sashimi markets, places extraordinary fishing pressure on the species. Journalist John Seabrook warned in 1994 that the bluefin's high premium meat put it at risk of commercial extinction. Only 2.6 percent of the original, pre-fished population is thought to exist still, according to researchers from the International Scientific Committee for Tuna and Tuna-like Species (ISC).
Back to Donggang, The Bluefin Tuna Cultural Festival
The festival's promotion has allowed the community to thrive in multiple ways.
However, there are many complex issues as a result of the Pacific Bluefin hype.
Overfishing and IUU:
Increased catches are encouraged by high prices placed on the fish to increase profits, leading to overfishing.
Since stricter fishing quotas have been implemented, some fishermen have fallen into illegal, unregulated, and undocumented fishing.
Undocumented fishing affects stock assessments, which are necessary to delimit fishing quotas and establish accurate regulations.
Abusive labor environment for fishermen
Sometimes we stay up all night or even days if we don't catch any tuna. If we don't comply we are not able to sleep, and we don't get paid. — Anonymous Fisherman.
High supply demands also lead to exploitative labor environments.
Most of the crew members in Taiwanese fishing vessels are from Southeast Asia, such as Vietnam or Indonesia. Reports of labor violations on Taiwanese-flagged vessels have surfaced more frequently in recent years. Most reports are the same: confiscated identification, verbal and physical abuse, and unpaid wages. James Morris, a journalist in Taiwan, states: “These reports focus on the signs of a global fishing industry that has largely been left outside of international regulatory standards and operates in a setting where enforcement is typically challenging.”
Interventions during spawning season
From May to June, Pacific Bluefin Tuna come around Taiwanese Waters to spawn, that is, to lay their eggs and reproduce. This seasonal agglomeration of tuna facilitates their catch. However, this also means that mothers are caught sometimes without laying their eggs.
Although they lay vast numbers of eggs, their ultimate survival rate is tiny. Only two southern bluefin fish are thought to survive to adulthood. The ecology and behavior of the southern bluefin are similar to that of the Pacific bluefin. Therefore, it is unlikely that the Pacific bluefin's survival rate will differ from that of the southern bluefin, according to Wu Chi-Lun, a Taiwan Fisheries Research Institute researcher.
With their low survival rate and the fact that mothers are occasionally caught before they have even laid their eggs, there is a concern for the prospects of future tuna generations.
Offshore waters conflict
The high price of the fish encourages fishers to go fishing outside Taiwan's Exclusive Economic Zone or offshore waters to increase their catches. This has led to serious accidents, such as the Guang Da Xing No. 28 incident, in which Philippine officials shot a Taiwanese fisherman.
The Why Should We Care
The Light Ahead
Fortunately, there are many people working hard to ensure the future of the great Pacific Bluefin.
Community
The Donggang Community is stepping up to possible unsustainable practices and trying to incorporate the promotion of other seafood besides just PBF.
Community groups are organizing to freshen the town and increase its attractiveness to future generations, stop the brain drain, and increase its population. Donggang residents aim to promote the implementation of new and diverse sustainable businesses, which could decrease the reliance on cheap foreign labor for fisheries and seafood for the community's livelihoods.
Fisheries organizations
The Convention on the Conservation and Management of Highly Migratory Fish Stocks in the Western and Central Pacific Ocean (WCPFC) has assigned specific annual catch quotas to Taiwan to control overfishing.
All tuna catches must have a tag and label that detail the location, weight, gender, and size. Fishers must report every catch and cannot sell their catches without doing so. This regulation aims to stop illegal, unreported, and unregulated fishing.
Taiwan developed its eco-label, the Responsible Fisheries Index (RFI) [責任漁業指標 ], so that consumers can track their fish and determine whether it comes from sustainable fisheries. This implementation facilitates the making of sustainable purchasing decisions.
Government administrations
The Ocean Conservation Administration and the Marine Ecology and Conservation Research Center in Taiwan are working to implement marine conservation as part of the National Education curriculum to increase future generations' literacy in marine ecology and ocean conservation. They also aim to expand Marine Protected Areas (MPA's) to account for 30% of Taiwan’s offshore borders and domestic water areas, including PBF spawning waters.
Individuals
Through making movies, I hope to shed some light on people and things that have been neglected in this world. Taiwan's fishing industry faces the dilemma of an aging population, a scarcity of resources, and poor labor conditions. — Sun Chieh Heng, filmmaker
Individual citizens have also put effort into advocating for fishers' rights. An example is Sun Chieh Heng [孫介珩], an ocean policy researcher and filmmaker who uses journalism and documentary filmmaking to advocate for human rights and ocean conservation. You can check out his most recent documentary, "Home Sick" [第一鮪], here .
The What To Do
Consumers
Pacific Bluefin Tuna label. Photo by Isis Calderon.
- Track our fish Ensuring that our food or the restaurant from which we buy food provides an ecolabel that traces back to the source is a way to ensure our purchasing decisions support sustainable fisheries.
- Rethink our food culture and choices The price reflected on fish might not consider its value in the ocean's ecosystem or the underpaid labor behind its fisheries. Foodie culture places a lot of emphasis on creativity and exclusivity, as is the case with sushi and sashimi. Still, it neglects the most crucial aspect of sustainability: caring for people and the species. Check out the Good Fish Guide to learn about the best seafood options if you are concerned about your impact on the ocean. If you are located in the U.S., you can check out this consumer guide to check the rating of popular seafood items when dining and shopping, created by Seafood Watch.
Donggang Community
Donggang Community member. Photo by: Isis Calderon.
- Rebrand the Bluefin Cultural Festival A rebrand of the festival could help shift the current focus to PBF only. A possible rebrand could include promoting other aspects of the area, such as the towns rich history, and culture. Because Donggang is a coastal community, a rebrand could also include workshops that promote education and awareness of the importance of taking care of marine ecology, resources, and water conservation. Always taking into consideration that for conservation initiatives to be successful and sustainable, it is still necessary to comprehend residents' expectations and goals.
Authorities and Researchers
- Bluefin Tuna sustainable management A crucial first step is to admit that the Bluefin Tuna fishery must be managed in terms of a sustainable ecosystem rather than a sustainable business.
- Further research is needed There is a need to research further the effects of catching PBF during its spawning season and how this can threaten future stock abundance.