The Shinty Trail
Explore the ‘story of shinty’ in Badenoch and its deep-rooted connections with the traditional Highland culture and heritage of the area
Introduction
The area of Badenoch in the Cairngorms National Park has deep-rooted connections with the game of shinty, where the sport forms an integral part of the culture and heritage of the area. Early accounts of the game reveal that it has been played in the region for hundreds of years, and possibly further back still, where the origins of the sport were as a folk game, primarily played for recreation and entertainment by the native population.
Illustration of early shinty and Badenoch caman – Image: The Book of the Society of the True Gael (1881)
In modern times, shinty is a fast-paced, highly competitive sport, where the game continues to be at the heart of communities throughout Badenoch, forming a crucial part of the lives and identities of those involved in the sport. Young people in the area are also introduced to the sport from an early age, as has been the case for many years, helping to sustain a rich shinty culture in the region.
Shinty and Gaelic are strongly intertwined within the history of the sport. In the surrounding communities, Gaelic song and verse was often composed about the game, where music and dance was also a crucial aspect of match-day activities. The cheers from supporters were in Gaelic as were the speeches given by local dignitaries and landlords. Much of the terminology relating to the game is also in the language.
The Game of Shinty – Image: Penny Magazine (1935)
At one time, a number of settlements along the length of the Spey had teams, where the area is also home to two of the most successful teams in the game through the neighbouring Newtonmore and Kingussie Camanachd Clubs. Historically, Badenoch is also of great significance to the development of shinty, both in terms of the sport’s early heritage and the formation of the modern game.
In the past, it was not just the working-classes that partook in shinty, where many local landlords and Clan Chiefs were also devoted patrons of the sport; the games they organised are among the earliest examples of the sport being played in the area. In later years, Badenoch also played a key role in the establishment of the modern game, as shinty evolved from a traditional pastime into a more organised, competitive sport.
Badenoch Shinty Memories is a local community group who use photographs and artefacts as a reminiscence tool to connect with local people around a shared interest of shinty, including those who are living with dementia or other mental health issues, and those suffering from loneliness or isolation. The film below shows the impact and reach that shinty has across the area of Badenoch.
Badenoch Shinty Memories 2019 (6 minutes)
Overview Map
The Shinty Trail covers 30 key heritage sites, spanning from Laggan to Kincraig – through the overview map the location and order of these key sites are viewable.
Over the course of this journey, the origins of shinty and the development of the modern game can be explored, as well as the history of key teams in the area, both past and present. There is also the opportunity to experience important aspects of Badenoch’s past, such as the Clan Macpherson, emigration, war, and early tourism.
CNP Shinty Trail - English Web Map
The Shinty Trail
To begin the journey, scroll downwards on the story map to move through the sequence of locations. At each point on the trail, there is further historic information and insights to be found on the left - this content can be read by scrolling downwards through the text.
The written content for each location is also supported by imagery and videos, which provide a glimpse into the heritage and culture of the area – past and present. These images are in slideshow format and can be explored by clicking the navigation arrows.
To learn more about the images featured, click the small information icon in the top left of each photograph. Every point on the trail also features a small map facility in the top left, which details the location and immediate area surrounding the heritage sites – this can also be used to navigate to particular locations on the trail. The toolbar at the top of the screen can also be used to navigate between specific sections of the story map.
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1
Creag Buidhe Monument
Travellers heading North along the A889 from Dalwhinnie have likely seen the large monument which stands proud on the summit of Creag Buidhe and may have wondered who or what it commemorates. The structure, some 20ft tall and completely exposed to the elements, is in memory of Ewan ‘Cluny’* Macpherson, also known as ‘Old Cluny’. Born in 1804, 'Cluny' inherited the position of Clan Chief from his father, Duncan, and presided over his ancestral home and the surrounding lands for nearly 70 years (1817-1885). The support of local landlords and dignitaries in the area was crucial to the survival and continued development of shinty in Badenoch, where ‘Cluny’ Macpherson was among the early patrons of the game, hosting many shinty occasions called “Ball-plays” (cluich-bhall in Gaelic) on occasions such as the celebration of New Year.
*The term ‘Cluny’ is a title applied to all Macpherson Clan Chiefs in Badenoch, referring to the ancestral seat of the Clan Macpherson, which was historically situated at Cluny Castle, Laggan.
‘Cluny died on 11th January, 1885, and was laid to rest… in the family burial ground overlooking the river Spey and the mountains which were so dear to his heart. It was a somewhat cold winter day with a slight covering of snow. A very large crowd of people including women and children, not only from Laggan but many other parishes, and representatives of the greatest historical Highland families assembled to pay their last respects to a great man of whom it could truly be said: he was the last of the Jacobite Chiefs.’
- A Highlander Looks Back (1965) - Angus MacPherson
Click through the adjacent photos for more views, both at this tour stop and others.
2
Laggan
Historically, the area of Laggan is of great significance to the shinty heritage of Badenoch, not least as this is where Cluny Castle is located, which is the ancestral home of the Macpherson Clan Chiefs and is where many of the Cluny ball-plays were held in the early days of the sport. At one time shinty was played prominently throughout the villages of the parish, producing a number of talented players over the years. In the past, shinty also used to be played on a Sunday, with local residents attending church in the morning before congregating thereafter for a lively game of shinty. Towards the end of the 19th century a number of important games were played in the district which led to the evolution of the modern game and equipment such as the use of leather balls.
From the beginning of the 20th century, Laggan were a capable, competitive side in their own right and were also a key presence in support of developing shinty into a more organised sport. Competitively, Laggan achieved some of the sport’s major accolades throughout the club’s history. They were among the teams participating in the first ever Camanachd Cup competition held in 1895-96. They won the MacTavish Cup in 1900, alongside the Campbell Cup and the Kennedy Caman, and were runners up in the 1904 Camanachd Cup Final against Kyles Athletic.
‘In the beautiful glen of Sherrabeg, when I was about 12 years old, I saw and took part in the junior shinty team. The battle for honour was waged between the North and South side of the River Spey. The men from the North side were captained by that delightful gentleman farmer, Mr Donald MacKillop, Blargie, and the team from the South side by Mr Gilbert, factor for Sir John Ramsden, a shinty enthusiast to the backbone. The younger generation contest comprised the lads from the Gergask and Kinlochlaggan schools and were captained by a lad Macrae and myself.’
- A Highlander Looks Back (1965) - Angus MacPherson
External Resources
Laggan Community Website: www.laggan.com
Laggan Remembers (2014) - Graham Grant
3
Cluny Castle
Cluny Castle was the official seat of the Clan Macpherson in Badenoch. The mansion house which can be seen today was built in 1805 to replace the original castle which was burnt down by government forces in 1746. Over the years a number of prestigious individuals have tried to buy the grand old building, such as Andrew Carnegie, who stayed in the mansion on a number of occasions during shooting holidays, as well as Queen Victoria, it is rumoured.
The Cluny ball-plays are among the earliest recorded examples of organised shinty being played in the area, with descriptions of the games vividly capturing the festive, social nature of the occasions which were greatly anticipated by the local communities. The accounts also capture the way in which the game was played before it became a more organised sport, with large throngs of people engaged in a lively contest, where there were no strict rules in terms of team numbers, equipment, or the size of the playing surface. Most of these matches were played at New Year with the Laird marking the turn of the year and the games would be tied to the working calendar.
‘Writing of the grand old game of shinty brings to mind the annual Cluny Ball play. This was one of the great events of the year when all comers were welcomed by the Chief and his Lady. The Castle Party headed by the family Piper, marched to the scene of the contest. All who brought a caman were expected to take part in the game. Jackets were laid down for goal-posts at the full length of the field—a very long one with no out of touch line, and no referee, but the Chief shouting in pure Gaelic to encourage his own chosen team, in opposition to that of one chosen by a neighbouring proprietor.’
- A Highlander Looks Back (1965) - Angus MacPherson
4
Creag Dhubh (Cluny’s Cave)
Ewan ‘Cluny’ Macpherson was Clan Chief over the area of Badenoch at the time of the Jacobite rebellions. As the Jacobite movement was gathering momentum, 'Cluny' Macpherson was approached by the government to take on a commanding role within its ranks, however, the Macpherson Clan had previously been in support of the Jacobite cause, which left 'Cluny' in two minds when the troops were rallied once again. Although 'Cluny' initially remained loyal to the government, he later came to support the Jacobites and fought on behalf of Charles Edward Stuart.
When the Jacobite cause was thwarted by government forces, this allegiance forced 'Cluny' into hiding when a bounty was placed on his head. Among his many hiding places, it is rumoured that 'Cluny' hid in a cave high-up in the mountains above his native homeland. The Macpherson war cry is ‘Creag Dhubh Chlann Chatain!’ or ‘Black Rock of Clan Chattan’, which refers to the Macpherson’s position within Clan Chattan, as well as Craig Dhubh itself. However, despite being in hiding, it is said that the allure of shinty was still too great for 'Cluny' to resist…
‘After taking part in the Jacobite side of the 1745 rising, Cluny Macpherson spent nine years in hiding in the Laggan area while government troops scoured the county in search of him. In 1745 or 1748, while in his cave on Creag Dubh, Cluny heard the sound of a New Year shinty match taking place. Fully aware that he was risking his life as there were redcoats in the vicinity, Cluny could not resist the lure of the game: hastily cutting a club from one of the birches in the neighbourhood of his retreat, he sped to the field, and ever foremost in the peace as in war, was soon at the head of the players.’
‘In wooded areas, wood was used. Branches of hazel, willow, oak, elm or birch were cut and whittled into shape. Birch, willow and elm were light but easily broken. Oak was so hard that ‘a sting came through the shaft of the caman and through your hands,’ which some players tried to alleviate by boring a hole through the caman shaft… Throughout the treeless islands, such as the Uists and Berneray, thick dried staves of seaweed tangle were called into use, and in South Uist at least, canvas sail-cloth was rolled tightly, twisted and strapped into the model of a workable caman.’
- The Caman is their Pastime from the Cradle to their Graves: Shinty in Badenoch & Strathspey 1747 – 1939 - Rosemary Gibson
5
Clan Macpherson Museum
The Clan Macpherson have strong, abiding ties with Badenoch and have been heavily involved in many aspects of the area’s heritage and culture throughout the centuries, including shinty. In addition to supporting the game in the past, the Macphersons were also involved in developing the establishment of organised shinty with the great-great grandson of 'Cluny' Macpherson, sitting as vice-president of the Camanachd Association alongside C.J.B. Macpherson of Balavil and L.A. Macpherson of Corrimony.
There is a selection of historic, shinty-related artefacts to be found in the Clan Macpherson museum in Newtonmore, alongside further information about 'Cluny' of the ‘45' and the Jacobite rebellions. Visitors can also learn more about James ‘Ossian’ Macpherson, well-known for his Ossianic Tales, who once resided in the nearby Balavil House, situated close to the A9 beside Kingussie. The Macphersons have a far-reaching influence, with clan members residing all over the world. Every summer, at the beginning of August, there is a Clan Gathering in Newtonmore as part of the traditional Highland Games. Clan members, decorated in traditional attire, march from Old Ralia in a procession led by bagpipers, down towards the Eilean and onto the playing field in order to launch the games.
External Resources
Clan Macpherson Museum: www.clanmacphersonmuseum.org.uk
Clan Macpherson Association: www.clan-macpherson.org
6
The Eilean
Shinty was played in Newtonmore (in Gaelic Baile Ùr an t-Slèibh – the new town on the Moor) long before the existence of the “new town” as we know it today. It is thought that shinty has been played on Newtonmore’s famous Eilean, for well over a century and likely further back still. In modern times, The Eilean (An t-Eilean, The Island, in Gaelic) continues to be the official home of Newtonmore Camanachd Club, taking its name from Eilean Bheannchair (Island of Banchor), which sits in the confluence of the Spey and Calder rivers just beyond the pitch. The playfield is also often referred to locally as The Eilan.
‘On Christmas Day the shinty players in the Newtonmore district assembled on Eilean Bheanachair - from time immemorial the scene of such gatherings - and the game was kept up with much enthusiasm for some hours - Mr Gwyer, Biallaid, providing refreshments. There was likewise a large and keenly contested shinty match on the Dell of Kingussie (The Highlander, 1 January 1876).
- Shinty, Nationalism and Cultural Identity 1835 - 1939: A Critical Analysis - Irene Reid (Theses - University of Stirling Faculty of Health Sciences and Sport)
7
Newtonmore Camanachd Club
Newtonmore Camanachd Club was established in the year 1890, just before the formation of the Camanachd Association in 1893, where Newtonmore was among the founding members. Over the years the Club has enjoyed great competitive success, winning the Camanachd Cup, considered to be the sport’s most prestigious award, more times than any other team to date. The Club also currently holds the recorded number of wins in the MacTavish Cup.
External Resources
Newtonmore Camanachd Club: newtonmoreshinty.co.uk
Camanachd Association: www.shinty.com
8
Newtonmore Railway Station
The modernisation of infrastructure in the area played a highly influential role in the progression of shinty. Improvements to the Highland road network early in the century, as well as the coming of the railway later in the same period, connected Newtonmore and Kingussie with the rest of the country and train travel similarly opened up the Highlands to visitors. Coinciding with these advancements was a resurgence of interest in traditional Highland culture, which combined to make Badenoch a popular tourist destination.
The station at Newtonmore is a notable architectural example and was designed by architect William Roberts who also designed the neighbouring Kingussie Station, as well as Aviemore and Boat of Garten. The station was meticulously looked after for many years by station master Jock Paul Macintosh, who was also a well-known, respected shinty player and administrator, where the station won several awards under his care. As such, the station is a go-to site for those with an interest in the historic railway network or the architecture of the area!
External Resources
History of the Highland Railway: www.hrsoc.org.uk/railway.html
9
Newtonmore Golf Course
Cattle markets were previously a staple of the Newtonmore economy, where the land which the golf course was later built on was originally used for this purpose. Established in 1893, the golf and shinty clubs have a longstanding and somewhat unique relationship in Newtonmore, as the area of Badenoch is credited with being the capital of left-handed golf, with the Newtonmore Club claiming to have more left-handed players than any other. It is thought that this is largely down to the historic relationship between shinty and golf in the area: Shinty players are permitted to play the ball with either side of the stick, thus following their natural preference, and this inclination is then also adopted when playing golf. Coincidently, the designer of the original course, Tom Morris, was also a left-handed player.
External Resource
Newtonmore Golf Club: www.newtonmoregolf.com
The First 100 Years of Golf at Newtonmore (1993) - John C. Downie
10
Newtonmore Town Hall
The Town Hall is the focal point of the village in Newtonmore, hosting ceilidhs, meetings, classes and other community events. It was built in 1913 by local architect Alexander Cattanach, who designed a large number of buildings in the area, where the land was donated by C.J.B Macpherson. Among the contributors for the building of the hall was the well-known American philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, who had been a shooting guest at Cluny Estate, as well as Elizabeth Garrett Anderson, the first female doctor in Britain, who was a summer visitor to the area.
The hall has been used regularly by the shinty community over the years to host fundraising events such as ceilidhs and concerts. There are also two mosaic murals on the front of the hall which were added during renovations to the hall upon its centenary in 2013; one of these depicts the Newtonmore Camanachd Club and is intended to highlight the significance of shinty to the area.
‘During World War II, moss collected for bandages by local children was dried on the stage in the Hall before being packed and sent off. At Christmas 1941 a party was held in the Hall for the children evacuated from Edinburgh to Ralia Lodge… A cinema used to operate twice weekly in the Hall, showing films supplied by The Highlands and Islands Film Guild.’
- Newtonmore Heritage Trail
External Resources
Newtonmore Heritage Trail: www.newtonmore.com/163-in-newtonmore/heritage-trail.html
11
Newtonmore War Memorial
Dr John Cattanach is considered by many to be one the best shinty players of all time and is currently the only shinty player inducted into the Scottish Sports Hall of Fame. Cattanach is a Newtonmore hero and holds the record for goals scored in one game, where he found the net eight times in the 1909 Camanachd Cup final against Furnace; a record which still stands to this day. It was not only shinty which Dr John was proficient at, having also represented his country in hockey and athletics.
Cattanach went on to leave his hometown to study at Edinburgh University where he received his degree in medicine, as well as in the arts. Following the outbreak of World War 1, Dr John enlisted in the Royal Army Medical Corps, Warwickshire Regiment, where he was made a Lieutenant. In 1915, Dr John Cattanach died from wounds suffered in battle at Gallipoli and his body was never returned; his passing was a great loss to his native Newtonmore and to the shinty community. Dr John was one of a number of talented players lost in the First and Second World Wars, which had a severe impact on shinty playing communities, particularly in more rural, less populated areas. His name is on the local War Memorial, along with all the others from the town lost in the conflicts and all Highland Villages and towns have their own significant memorials.
‘In 1917, the sport of shinty lost the finest player of his day, Dr Johnnie Cattanach, killed in action in the Dardanelles. “A prince of shinty players” and an athlete of all-round pre-eminence, Cattanach was said to have run from his home in Newtonmore to the field at the Eilean, balancing a ball on his caman, in preparation for a game. Never once was it allowed to drop by this most superlative player who was also a distinguished medical man, a hockey internationalist and gifted runner, he was unequalled and said to be head and shoulders above all others.’
- Shinty Dies Hard, PhD Thesis (Aberdeen, 1998) – Dr Hugh Dan MacLennan
12
Newtonmore Primary School
The old part of Newtonmore primary dates back to the late 19th century, with later additions carried out in the early 20th century by local architect Alexander Cattanach. Shinty is a fundamental aspect of growing up in Newtonmore, where the game has been played for as long as can be remembered and continues to be played prominently to the present day.
Situated on Golf Course Road, the primary school and golf course have a long-standing relationship when it comes to shinty. The area known as the ‘top of the golf course’ is where many young players started out before progressing to senior shinty from school. The area was ideal for playing shinty because it was so close to the school and the town centre, where young players from the area would spend hours at the ‘top of the golf course’ every day and evening of the week. Many families from the area also gathered at the golf course in the evenings to watch shinty being played, where there was also the opportunity to join in with the older, senior players.
13
Balavil Hotel
The Balavil Hotel has a long-standing relationship with the shinty community in Newtonmore as a gathering place and has been one of the team’s primary sponsors for a great number of years. As with many historic hotels in the Cairngorms, the Balavil began life as an inn, owned by the Bentick family, which catered to commuters traveling through the area before the introduction of the modern road network. In the early 20th century, Newtonmore and Kingussie became popular tourist destinations, largely brought about by the coming of the railway, which would see the inn redeveloped into a larger hotel with various improvements and subsequent additions over the years. In modern times, the Balavil is still a favoured meeting place for the shinty community for both pre-match gatherings and post-match debates, where the well-known ‘back bar’ or ‘shinty bar’ is home to a proud display of club memorabilia, including a display of the currently held silverware.
14
Highland Folk Museum
The Highland Folk Museum was founded by pioneering historian Dr Isabel Frances Grant MBE and was named Am Fasgadh, which is Gaelic for ‘The Shelter’. It was intended ‘to shelter homely ancient Highland things from destruction’, a concept which was ahead of its time in many ways. Opened in 1935, the original museum was situated in a disused Free Church in Iona before later moving to Badenoch in 1939. Initially housed in a disused church in Laggan, the museum later moved to Kingussie in 1944, where the building which was used can still be seen today and was historically the old factor’s house. The Kingussie site housed three replica buildings including a Hebridean black-house and is recognised as the first mainland open air museum in Britain.
The Highland Folk Museum moved to the Newtonmore site in the 1980s, continuing Dr Grant’s legacy by providing a living heritage experience which captures traditional Highland life as it has developed over the centuries. The purpose-built storage and research facility Am Fasgadh was completed in 2013. This contains Dr Grant’s original collection which has been subsequently added to since and now comprises over 10,000 items.
Am Fasgadh houses a fantastic collection of historic, shinty-related artefacts, such as early equipment (sticks and balls), literature and photographs. This is regularly being added to through partnership working, particularly supported by the local communities as part of the Badenoch Shinty Memories project. Shinty is also represented at the Boleskine shinty pavilion, built in the 1930s for the staff of the British Aluminium Co. Ltd. Works in Foyers, and relocated to the Highland Folk Museum in 2013. The pavilion has a small shinty playing field out-front which hosts junior matches such as the annual Am Fasgadh Quaich.
‘Men took great care in fashioning a caman - a good shinty stick was an object of ambition and pride. Wood would be heated in the fire and bent into a curve, which was clamped in place for several days until it was the required shape. Then the foot was shaped: it might be bevelled to loft the ball, or rounded, for hitting the ball along the ground. A finished caman was an elegant weapon, graceful to wield...’
- The Caman is their Pastime from the Cradle to their Graves: Shinty in Badenoch & Strathspey 1747 – 1939 - Rosemary Gibson
External Resources
Highland Folk Museum: www.highlifehighland.com/highlandfolkmuseum/
Camanachd Craic: www.highlifehighland.com/highlandfolkmuseum/camanachdcraic/
15
Duke of Gordon Hotel
The Duke of Gordon Hotel has been a hub in the Kingussie community for a great many years; particularly in relation to shinty where the hotel was a favoured meeting place for the Kingussie Camanachd Club both before and after matches, as well as for fundraising events and other social gatherings. Although the current building was built in the early 20th century, The Duke of Gordon is one a number of hotels in the Cairngorms which can trace their roots back to the 19th century, and perhaps earlier still, where the hotel was built on the location of the previous Pitmain Inn.
At one time the hotel was owned by local hotelier William Wolfenden, who also owned the nearby Star Hotel. It was also known as Pullar’s Hotel for a brief period in the late 19th century. In the early days, The Duke of Gordon Hotel (known locally as “The Duke”) would have been a resting place for weary travellers commuting along the old road before the construction of the A9 and would later capitalise on the tourist boom brought about by the introduction of the railway and modern roads networks; it is even said to have been visited by Queen Victoria.
16
Memorial Gardens
As with many communities throughout the Highlands, Kingussie suffered significant losses during the First World War. From across the parish sixty lives were lost, and from the Camanachd Cup winning team of 1914, five would not return from war. The Battle of Festubert in May 1915, in particular, had a devastating impact on shinty playing communities where among those lost from Kingussie Camanachd Club was John MacGillivray, as well as John Macpherson, who later died from injuries sustained in battle.
Lewis Macpherson enlisted in the Royal Garrison Artillery upon the outbreak of war, but tragically became seriously ill and later passed away in Ireland where he had been sent to train. The following year, Alick Tolmie was killed at The Battle of Scarpe and at The Battle of Arras, John G. Macpherson, who owned a sports shop in Kingussie, also lost his life; both were only 23 years old. Later in the same year, Malcom MacKintosh was killed at the infamous Flanders.
‘The indominatable spirit which had seen many Highland heroes through the First World War also resurfaced between 1939-45. Teams were formed in various POW camps and teams of wood-cutters sent to cut down natural bends to make camans.’
- Shinty! - Dr Hugh Dan MacLennan
‘Shinty had an important role to play in terms of its morale-building effect at home, and further afield. Highland units stationed in England made the game their chief recreation. Shinty players also took their camans with them to war, or manufactured camain as and where they could. Teams often formed on a territorial basis and the game provided a crucial link with home in the most trying circumstances.’
Shinty Dies Hard, PhD Thesis (Aberdeen, 1998) – Dr Hugh Dan MacLennan
17
Kingussie Primary School
Kingussie Primary School is one of the many historic buildings which can be found in the town centre with the original building dating back to 1874, designed by architects Matthews and Lawrie, who also designed the courthouse and former free church near the railway station. Later additions were added in the early 20th century by local architect Alexander Cattanach. The school originally served the area of Badenoch as a whole, as well as parts of the Highlands, and also encompassed a secondary department with children traveling from far and wide to study here.
There is a grass playing field near the Primary School, which also dates back to around 1876, where many young shinty players in the area started out in the game and honed their skills over the years. Historically, shinty has been played at a junior level in Badenoch for a great many years and continues to be popular in modern times, where a number of schools in the area have very successful junior teams. There is also a variety of silverware to be played for in junior competitions, such as the MacKay, John Macpherson, MacMaster and Sutherland Cups, among other competitions.
18
MacKenzie’s Fountain
Peter MacKenzie, the Count de Serra Largo, was another member of the local aristocracy who greatly supported the game of shinty and was president of the Kingussie Camanachd Club for some 34 years. He made his fortune traveling the world for the Singer company and received his title from the King of Portugal for services rendered to the Portugese people while working in Brazil. During his time abroad he also married a Portuguese woman and was father to nine children. The count contributed generously to his native hometown, constructing buildings such as the series of cottages on Boa Vista Road, as well as leaving behind the monument now known as the MacKenzie Fountain near the railway station. The Count passed away in 1931, age 75, due to war related ailments
'The large crowd at the Cross cheered as Peter MacKenzie, the Count de Serra Largo, came down from the East Terrace accompanied by the Countess. It was New Year’s Day, 1905, and it had been declared a public holiday. At the request of the Count the town crier had invited everyone to the Cross at midday so that they could march to the Dell and celebrate New Year in the traditional manner. It was also the Countess’s first opportunity to see an old-fashioned game of shinty. A full pipe-band led the procession…’
- Kingussie and the Caman - John Robertson (1994)
19
Kingussie Railway Station
Kingussie Railway station has been a focal point for a great many activities in the local community. The railway was heavily used by the shinty community over the years, with visiting teams coming by train and the home side using it for away games. It also greatly boosted tourism, allowing visitors to travel further North than had previously been possible, helping establish the area as a tourist hotspot, which also brought commerce and industry to the area. When Kingussie and Glasgow Cowal met in their famous shinty match of April, 1893, the Glasgow team arrived by train and the teams marched to the Dell to play. The match was recreated in 1993 as part of the Camanachd Association’s centenary celebrations. The railway also has an important role to play in the wartime period, where soldiers from Kingussie and the surrounding districts gathered at the station before leaving home to head for their military training and bases before going on to War.
‘On 4 August, 1914 the Headquarters of Scottish Command in Edinburgh received a telegram from the British Government which simply read “Mobilise”. Britain had declared war on Germany. At noon on 5 August, 1914, the Kingussie contingent of the Cameron Highlanders left Kingussie Railway Station on the north-bound train for Inverness. Some of them never returned.’
- Scotland’s War
‘Before the team had left Inverness, the news of victory had reached Badenoch and large crowds were gathering at the stations along the way to applaud the team. The train, which was decorated with MacPherson tartan ribbons and streamers, left Inverness at 7.00pm. At each station pipers were playing and the team was cheered by throngs of people all anxious to congratulate a group of men who had been representing north Shinty as much as their village.’
- Kingussie and the Caman (1994) - John Robertson
External Resources and Additional Reading
Story of Kingussie - The Railway and the Burgh: storyofkingussie.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/boards_small_part4.pdf
Highland Railway Society: www.hrsoc.org.uk/bibliography.html
The Highland Main Line, Neil T Sinclair (1998)
20
Silverfjord Hotel
Near the Duke of Gordon, and beside the railway station, the Silverfjord Hotel has been a regular haunt of the shinty community in Kingussie for a number of years; particularly for post-match gatherings, with the hotel being just along the road from Kingussie’s playing field the Dell. The hotel gets its unusual name on account of George Sellar, who built the hotel back in 1901, originally as a guest house. Sellar worked as a whisky merchant where much of his trade involved exporting whisky to the Scandanavian countries, hence the references to the fjords.
21
Victoria Hall (Badenoch Centre)
In the early days of shinty before the game became more organised, the rules and equipment used could vary greatly from place-to-place. The size of the playing surface differed between teams as did the ball used, which often influenced the final result and caused disputes between the competing clubs. It was often agreed to use one team's ball for the first half and the other team’s for the second. This variation within the game was a key factor in shinty becoming more organised, as it went from a community folk game, to more competitive inter-club matches.
The Badenoch area has a deep-rooted connection with the history and evolution of shinty but also went on to play a crucial role in its future. In order to ensure the survival and promotion of the sport, the idea of organising the game took root with the hope of bringing an element of coherence and uniformity to shinty which would provide a platform for fairer competition and also a level of credibility that would help the sport to grow. As a result, 34 teams from around Scotland congregated in Victoria Hall, Kingussie, and on the 10th of October 1893, The Camanachd Association was formed.
‘The social aspect of shinty was, and still is very important, but shinty games were increasingly sporting contests rather than social occasions. Instead of an event in which all the men of the village could join, the challenge matches were spectator sports, played by the best men in the community. In the increasingly competitive atmosphere of the later 19th century, success in camanachd became an important part of a community’s status.’
- The Boys of the Eilan: Shinty in Newtonmore, 1820-1945 - Rosemary Gibson
External Resources
Camanachd Association: www.shinty.com
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Dòmhnall Phàil (Donald Campbell) – The Kingussie Bard
The early nineteenth century was a time of great hardship for rural communities across the Scottish Highlands due to famine, lack of work, economic depression and changes in legislation relating to land management. This brought about a period of widespread emigration, with a steep drop in population being felt keenly across many rural Highland communities, including Kingussie. This in turn had a severe effect on the game shinty and it was often very difficult to build a team.
A significant number of the population left Badenoch in 1838 bound for Australia on the vessel St George, which is reflected in the well-known Gaelic song, Guma Slàn do na Fearaibh (Here’s Good Health to the People) by Donald Campbell, The Kingussie Bard; or Dòmhnall Phàil as he was known locally. Dòmhnall Phàil’s gravestone, which has been recently renovated, can be found in the ‘old parish churchyard’ behind the Kingussie main street.
Dòmhnall Phàil Jr
In Kingussie, the Camanachd Club had a writer among its own ranks in Donald Campbell, son of the famous Kingussie Bard (known also Dòmhnall Phàil like that of his father), who was a key character in the Kingussie shinty community. Donald had a vibrant career in Kingussie and was also an accomplished writer himself. Although his competitive playing days had passed him by, Donald served as a figurehead captain for the team from its inception and throughout the early years, with captaining the team on the field falling to the local hotelier James Pullar. Donald was a striking character, with his huge unruly beard, and was also a fluent Gaelic speaker.
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Balavil House
Situated in the parish of Alvie, on the outskirts of Kingussie, Balavil House is an 18th century neoclassical mansion designed by the well-known architect Robert Adam. The mansion was once the residence of the well-known Scottish scholar James ‘Ossian’ Macpherson who earned his fame through translating the Ossianic Tales and in later life was also involved in politics. The house is built on the previous location of Ratites Castle and close to the former Belleville house. ‘Ossian’ Macpherson was born in the nearby village of Ruthven, and some years later, returned to Badenoch once again to teach in the local school following his time in college. In relation to shinty, Balavil House was once where the Camanachd Association meetings were held.
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Dunbarry
The pitch at Dunbarry is used for a variety of sports, including shinty, and is where the Kingussie Camanachd Club played their 1991-92 and ‘92-93 seasons when The Dell was under refurbishment. It also affords excellent views of the surrounding landscape!
Situated between The Dell and Kingussie town centre, the Market Stance is another playing field often used for a variety of sports, including shinty, as well as a number of other local events. The pitch takes its name from the fact that the whole area is where cattle and sheep markets are often held, both in past and present times. The Market Stance is also where the traditional New Year’s Day shinty match, featuring the Kingussie All-Stars, is often held.
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Kingussie Golf Course
Alongside shinty, a number of sporting clubs and organisations also established themselves in the late 19th and early 20th century, all within a comparatively short period in time. Kingussie Camanachd Club was established in 1890, with the Golf Club being formed the following year. The two sporting clubs also share a longstanding and deep-rooted relationship where many local shinty players were also accomplished golfers.
The Kingussie golf course is situated in close proximity to the town centre in an area known as Glen Gynack, which is of historical significance as it was once the location of an old township; some of which can still be seen today in the form of a shepherd’s hut near the 6th hole. The clubhouse, built in 1911, is also a fantastic example of an early 20th century golf pavilion complete with its original exterior. It was designed by local architect Alexander Mackenzie, who also designed the pavilion in Grantown-on-Spey.
External Resources
Kingussie Golf Club: kingussiegolfclub.co.uk
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The Dell
The Dell has become synonymous with shinty in Kingussie, with the earliest recorded game having been played here in 1866 as part of a traditional New Year’s Day match. The English term ‘Dell’ comes from the Gaelic word Dail, which often features in relation to place-names, and refers to a field or meadow situated in close proximity to water which is often prone to flooding: The Dell is situated on a floodplain which stretches from Kincraig to Kingussie. The playing field is unique in that it regularly sees flood water rise and fall on the park, yet games still take place here; there are few sporting grounds that could sustain such variable conditions. The Dell is generally held to be the best playing surface in the country, although that honour would probably be disputed in a number of shinty-playing areas.
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Kingussie Camanachd Club
The Dell is home to Kingussie Camanachd Club, established in 1890. Throughout the history of the club, Kingussie have won a number of the sport’s major awards. Of these, the Camanachd Cup is considered to be the premier accolade in the sport. The first ever Camanachd Cup was held at Needlefield Park, Inverness, in 1896 where Kingussie beat Glasgow Cowal 2-0 to lift the trophy. Other significant Camanachd Cup wins followed for Kingussie in 1921 and 1961, with the intervening years being barren for the club in terms of the championship.
Kingussie were also among the founding members of the Camanachd Association, shinty’s governing body, which was formed in 1893 just along the road from the Dell in Victoria Hall, Kingussie (now part of the Badenoch Centre). In addition to cup competitions, Kingussie has also had great success in the League, having won the competition more times than any other team. Kingussie also achieved an amazing run of 4 years unbeaten, some ninety-five games, across league and cup competitions.
External Resources
Kingussie Camanachd Club: www.kingussieshinty.com
Kingussie and the Caman (1994) - John Robertson
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Drumguish
Drumguish is one of a network of villages or hamlets within three or four miles of Kingussie. Walking from Insh Village, the old road was part of the Rathad nam Mèirleach (the Thieves' Road), which provided a covert way of avoiding Government roads and can be traced from Glen Tromie through Badenoch and Glenmore and into Abernethy. After the farm cottages and buildings of Inveruglas is Drumguish, another crofting settlement. This is on the crossroads of the Thieves' Road and the equally old road to Glen Feshie.
In shinty terms, the Alvie, Insh, Drumguish and Invereshie teams were largely interchangeable and drew their personnel from local estates. As such, each team would be dependent on the availability of local labour. Shinty was played in all the communities well before the establishment of organised shinty in 1893. However, Drumguish appears to have been the most “modern” of the teams, having been formed in 1922 and their best years were immediately after that. They won a six-a-side competition in 1927 but then hit hard times and were not re-formed until after World War II.
The almost inevitable result of the fragility of crofting communities beyond Newtonmore and Kingussie was amalgamation, and the original teams from the various hamlets now survive as Kincraig Shinty Club which continues to defy the odds and fields a team, although they regularly lose players to their stronger rivals along the road.
- Dr Hugh Dan MacLennan
‘Although they lost friendlies to Kincraig, Kingussie and Newtonmore, the new club included a number of players of outstanding quality and it was reckoned that with more practice they would do well… Shinty was the only topic of conversation in the village: Heart to heart talks take place nightly in this, that, and the other house. Is the Drumguish team not a power in the land? If they don’t lift a cup this season, they deserve to.’
- The Caman is their Pastime from the Cradle to their Graves: Shinty in Badenoch & Strathspey 1747 – 1939 - Rosemary Gibson
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Kincraig
Historically, shinty was played widely throughout Badenoch, with many of the smaller towns and villages of the area having active local teams of their own which would very often be made up of workers from the various estates in the area. Many of these teams have come and gone over time, often returning under different names or amalgamating with other nearby clubs in order to raise numbers, reflecting changing circumstances such as employment and emigration. Many of the social factors which have affected shinty over the years, such as depopulation and war, were felt particularly keenly by the more rural communities.
In this sense, the survival and evolution of shinty in the smaller towns and villages is a reflection of the changes in society which have taken place throughout history. It was often difficult to raise a team in these areas, particularly competitively, which is why the history of some of the clubs often appears more sporadic. Kincraig have a long-standing and vibrant history within Badenoch's shinty heritage, and now, shinty is prospering once again through the junior team and younger players.
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Alvie & Insh (Invereshie)
Throughout history there were a number of shinty teams established in and around the larger new towns of Kingussie and Newtonmore. Throughout Scotland many shinty teams take their name from the area or parish within which they are situated, drawing from a larger area where the population is lower. The same is true of historic teams in Badenoch which often related to the estates, where people lived and worked in the area, also establishing shinty teams to continue the long-held pastime. Many landlords were also patrons of the game, laying on matches for the local population or their workforce.
The history of many teams in this area of Badenoch are strongly interlinked, where in addition to competing against one another, they often also amalgamated in order to build a team. For example, Alvie and Insh were separate teams which also amalgamated for a period due to diminishing population in the area. Early in the 20th century, Alvie & Insh were known as Invereshie before reforming as Kincraig later in the same period. Alvie and Insh shinty teams were also key influences within the shinty community of Badenoch and were among the 32 teams in attendance when the Camanachd Association was formed in Victoria Hall, Kingussie in October 1893.
Badenoch Shinty Memories
Badenoch Shinty Memories are a local community group who use photographs and artefacts as a reminiscence tool to connect with local people around a shared interest of shinty, including those who are living with dementia or other mental health issues, and those suffering from loneliness or isolation. Forgotten memories and new conversations can be sparked by sharing a passion for the sport. The group have been holding dementia friendly events and activities at venues across the whole of Badenoch, from Laggan to Kincraig, and also produce online and printed resources for people to enjoy in their own homes.
Sheila Fraser and Hilda Saunders at a Badenoch Shinty Memories session, November 2019 – Image: Badenoch Shinty Memories Group
In addition to having strong and active connections with the local schools, care homes, shinty clubs and churches, the community group also works in close partnership with the Highland Folk Museum, High Life Highland. The sport is a firm fixture of community life in Badenoch, past and present, and the museum holds a large number of objects and archival material that tell the story of shinty. The two organisations are working together to build up a comprehensive shinty resource with, and for, the community.
Badenoch Shinty Memories is part of a national network of memories groups, led by Shinty Memories Scotland. Many other shinty-playing communities across the country are setting up their own memories groups to keep connected with former (and current) players, supporters and fans.
Follow Badenoch Shinty Memories on Facebook: www.facebook.com/BadenochShintyMemories/
To sign up to the BSMG newsletter, please email badenochshintymemories@gmail.com
Find out more about Shinty Memories Scotland: www.facebook.com/Shintymemoriesscotland
Badenoch Ladies Shinty Club
Badenoch Ladies was formed as a shinty club in 2008 and has gone on to become one of the best teams in the country, regularly competing for top honours. The club has developed significantly over a short period of time and has provided several internationalists to the Scottish Women's Team. The club stepped up to the National Division in 2010 and performed admirably despite finishing fourth out of four teams.
In recent seasons though, Badenoch and Skye Ladies have dominated the women’s game contesting most of the top honours including live televised Cup Finals. Badenoch have won the Valerie Fraser Camanachd Cup twice and the National League Championship in recent seasons. They won the Valerie Fraser Trophy in 2013 in a 3-1 win against Glasgow Mid-Argyll and managed to win it again in 2018 with a 4-1 victory against Skye Camanachd Ladies.
Badenoch Ladies, winners of the 2018 Valerie Fraser Camanachd Cup Final – Image: John Robertson
They have a playing strength of around 25 drawn from throughout the Badenoch area and a number of their team travel considerable distances for training and on match days. Some of the team have come through the ranks representing their local primary and Kingussie High School shinty team and also their clubs’ second teams.
The team uses the Dell in Kingussie and Newtonmore’s Eilean for training but most of their competitive games are played at the Dell. A number of the players have fathers or brothers who have represented their clubs’ men’s teams and many of the players are very involved in a local community initiative called OneKingussie. The main activity of this is to deliver food and prescriptions to vulnerable members of the community who are staying at home during the 2020 pandemic.
- Dr Hugh Dan MacLennan
