First Settlers of Sedona, Arizona

GLO Record of the Week for June 21, 2020

Cathedral Rock of Coconino National Forest, 2019

This Bureau of Land Management General Land Office record of the week takes you on a brief journey of early homesteading in Northern Arizona and how Sedona eventually got it’s name.

Oak Creek Canyon

Red rocks of Sedona, 2019

Oak Creek Canyon is a river gorge located between the Arizona cities of Sedona and Flagstaff, and was home to Sedona's first known Anglo-American settler; John James Thompson (J.J. Thompson).

Soon after Thompson began homesteading in the canyon, more settlers arrived and the area grew enough to be recognized and surveyed by the General Land Records Office in 1889. The area became self-sustaining with the development of orchards and ranching operations.

J.J. Thompson, First Settler

In 1876, under the Homestead Act of 1862, Thompson claimed squatter’s rights on a parcel of unsurveyed land equipped with a running spring and healthy crops. A year prior, this land was occupied by a small group of Tonto Apache Native Americans who were captured by U.S. Army scouts from Fort Verde. Thompson's homestead was eventually surveyed, but the actual location of the cabin is northeast of the plat depiction (Township 18 North, Range 6 East, of the Gila and Salt River Meridian).

J.J. Thompson's Homestead

Thompson built a log-cabin on his claim and named his new home “Indian Gardens Ranch,” later referred to as “Indian Gardens.”

Thompson hoped to assist his children in establishing property in the surrounding area as they got older. He acquired approximately 56 acres adjacent to his homestead in 1912. Both of these homesteads are depicted on the 1913 Homestead Entry Survey for Township 18 North, Range 6 East, Sections 27 and 28, of the Gila and Salt River Meridian.

Thompson's first homestead cabin in Oak Creek Canyon.

Thompson's second homestead.

The Thompson Family

Looking to settle down with a companion, Thompson reached out to Abraham James, who was a friend he met while running a ferry boat business out of Nevada. Thompson invited the entire James family out to make Arizona their new home. Abraham and his wife, Elizabeth, had three daughters at the time. The daughter Margaret known as Maggie, was soon to become Thompson's wife.

The James family agreed to the move, and in 1879 established themselves just south of Indian Gardens in the area known today as Sedona. The James' homestead is depicted in Township 17 North, Range 6 East, Section 18, of the surveyed plat of 1890 (Gila and Salt River Meridian).

The Thompson family at Indian Gardens, 1913

Abraham James, wife Elizabeth, and their three daughters (including Maggie on the left)

The James homestead (1880s)

Thompson Children

Thompson wed Maggie James in 1880 and made Indian Gardens his home until his death in 1917. Maggie raised their nine children on her own until her death in 1936.

First Son Born in Oak Creek

The Thompson's first child, John Franklin Thompson (“Frank”), was the first born Anglo-American child in Oak Creek. Frank eventually purchased his own land, south of his parents and north of the James' homestead. Frank's homestead was patented in 1919 but is actually depicted in Township 17 North, Range 6 East, Section 8, of an 1889 survey plat.

John Franklin Thompson ("Frank"), 1902

The Thompson family, 1902

All but one of the Thompson children survived through adulthood. Albert Thompson (child pictured front-center) went on to publish several stories of the West in the 1968 book, "Those Early Days."

Oak Creek Canyon school children, 1893. Top Row: Lizzie Thompson (fourth from left). Bottom Row: Fred Thompson (furthest on the left)

Official Oak Creek Survey

Homesteaders followed Thompson’s lead and began executing squatter's rights and pre-emption homesteads in the area, as Oak Creek Canyon had not been officially surveyed yet.

The area continued to get more recognition, which prompted the General Land Office to send surveyors out to the area. In 1889, survey plats were established for the aforementioned Townships 17 and 18 North, Range 6 East, putting Oak Creek canyon officially on the map.

The Thompsons visiting with local ranchers, the Munds family

By 1901, more than a dozen families were living in the area with the first patented homestead issued to Frank Owenby. Owenby sold his parcel of land within a year to two brothers named Dorsey and Theodore Carlton Schnelby.

Frank and Nancy Owenby, 1890s

Sedona Gets a Name

In 1902, Theodore Schnebly built a post office on his newly-owned property, naming it after his wife Sedona. This set the stage for developing the surrounding area into a thriving community that included the settlers of Oak Creek Canyon.

Homesteading in the Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon area continued until the last claim was acquired in 1942 for an area just south of the famous Chapel of the Holy Cross.  

Sedona and Theodore Carlton Schnebly

Chapel of the Holy Cross, Sedona, Arizona

Today, Oak Creek Canyon is very much a part of Sedona’s livelihood. Visitors can walk around a portion of Frank Owenby’s original homestead, which is now home to a village of art galleries and shops. Tourists come from all over the world to witness the beauty of Oak Creek, the majestic red rocks of Sedona, and the original site of Thompson's homestead, which is now a state park. 

Oak Creek Canyon rancher, early 1900's

Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village, Sedona, Arizona

Oak Creek, Sedona Arizona, 2019

Indian Gardens Gift Shop located across the street from J.J. Thompson's homestead

Indian Gardens State Park

Cathedral Rock of Coconino National Forest, 2019

Red rocks of Sedona, 2019

Thompson's first homestead cabin in Oak Creek Canyon.

Thompson's second homestead.

The Thompson family at Indian Gardens, 1913

Abraham James, wife Elizabeth, and their three daughters (including Maggie on the left)

The James homestead (1880s)

John Franklin Thompson ("Frank"), 1902

The Thompson family, 1902

Oak Creek Canyon school children, 1893. Top Row: Lizzie Thompson (fourth from left). Bottom Row: Fred Thompson (furthest on the left)

The Thompsons visiting with local ranchers, the Munds family

Frank and Nancy Owenby, 1890s

Sedona and Theodore Carlton Schnebly

Chapel of the Holy Cross, Sedona, Arizona

Oak Creek Canyon rancher, early 1900's

Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village, Sedona, Arizona

Oak Creek, Sedona Arizona, 2019

Indian Gardens Gift Shop located across the street from J.J. Thompson's homestead

Indian Gardens State Park