Camel Wool
Move over sheep, there's a (not so) new wool in town
Move over sheep, there's a (not so) new wool in town
Believe it or not, wool doesn’t just come from sheep— in fact, some of the best quality wool is made from camel hair! This camel hair is most often obtained from the Bactrian camel (Camelus bactrianus), a species with whom cultures from the Mongol Steppes of Central and Eastern Asia have had a deep and long-standing relationship. These camels can be found roaming in the Gobi Desert of Mongolia and China, as well as across a wide area stretching from Turkey to China and Siberia. The Bactrian camel has adapted naturally to these harsh environments known for dramatic fluctuations between extreme cold and heat, however, crossbreeding conducted by humans have taken these natural adaptations to the next level.
Each camel produces about five pounds of hair fiber per year. The fiber is double coated, meaning that it has one layer of long, coarse guard hairs, and an undercoat of soft, fine, downy fiber.
This camel hair is mainly used for high-grade overcoat fabrics and is also made into knitwear, blankets, and rugs. The coarse outer fibre is strong and is even used in industrial fabrics such as machine beltings!
One of the most important aspects of the camel wool manufacturing process is that it is cruelty free. In nomadic societies of years' past, a person called a trailer followed the camel caravan, collecting hair tufts as they dropped on the trail during the day, and from the area where the camels had bedded down for the night.
When a camel molts (sheds their hair), the neck hair falls off first, then the mane, and then finally the body hair. Today, camel hair is only occasionally gathered by shearing or plucking, and is still most often collected as the animal naturally sheds its coat. None of these processes harm the camel in any way.
Once the camel hair is collected, it is washed and undergoes a process called “dehairing” in which the fine soft hairs (used for clothing, rugs, etc.) are separated from the coarse hairs (used for ropes, strong yarn, etc.). Today this is accomplished mechanically (machine pictured).
After dehairing, the remainder is spun into yarn. In some cases, an industrial spinning machine may be used to render this wool into yarn, or the indigenous peoples of the Mongol Steppes will often use traditional tools for this task (pictured).
Some Bactrian camel breeders make their own finished textiles, but it is much more common for the finished yarn to be shipped off to a major textile factory.
Under a microscope, camel hair appears similar to sheep fiber in that it is covered with fine scales with diagonal edges (pictured). The fibers have a medullae — a hollow, air-filled matrix, in the center of the fiber that makes the fiber an excellent insulator. These hollow fiber centers are visible in the second picture in the posting sequence.
Because of its natural temperature regulating properties, camel hair (or "camel wool") works well for apparel in both warm and cold environments.
The Bactrian camel (Camelus bactrianus) is a domesticated species with whom cultures from the Mongol Steppes of Central and Eastern Asia have had a deep and long-standing relationship. These camels can be found roaming in the Gobi Desert of Mongolia and China, as well as across a wide area stretching from Turkey to China and Siberia. The Bactrian camel has adapted naturally to these harsh environments known for dramatic fluctuations between extreme cold and heat, however, crossbreeding conducted by humans have taken these natural adaptations to the next level.
Domestic Bactrian camels are actually an ancient crossbreed of the one-humped Dromedary (Camelus dromedarius) camel of Syria and the two-humped, Wild Bactrian (Camelus ferus) camel of Asia. The two camels were crossbred long ago to combine the heat resistance of the one humped camel's fiber with the superior resistance to cold of the two-humped camel's wool fiber.
It is important to note that the Wild Bactrian Camel is currently listed as a critically endangered species by the I nternational Union for Conservation of Nature
The Bactrian camel, and of course, its hair, has been crucial to the lives of steppe nomads since the animal’s domestication in 2500 BCE! The two-humped camel was, and continues to be, essential for the Mongols to transport heavy loads. The camels carry folded gers (yurts), goods for trade, and or other household furnishings. It would be nearly impossible to traverse the inhospitable desert terrain without them.
Historically, the Mongols also relied upon the animal's wool, drank its milk (which can also be made into cheese), and on occasion ate its meat.
Fast forward a few millennia, and camel hair emerged as a fashion statement in the U.S. It first became popular in the U.S. in the 1920s and 1930s, having been introduced through the sport of polo, where camel hair coats were often worn by players in between matches.
During the early to mid 1900's, camel wool coats spread in popularity in Europe and the U.S. and could often be found being worn by polo players in between matches.
The outbreak of the Second World War brought camel wool further into the limelight. Traditional fabrics such as silk, leather, and wool were in short supply during the war as they were used for the production of materials supporting the war effort. Given that the supply of camel hair was not being exhausted during this time, it was used more widely in place of the more popular materials.
The importance of the Bactrian camel to Mongolian culture actually originates with the country’s tradition of democracy. Under socialism, herding was centrally planned, meaning that herders sold their animal products to the state. But with the onset of capitalism in 1990, herders were subjected to the challenges of a free-market economy.
Young herding family migrating from spring pasture after 1994 Winter drought
Tragically, under capitalism, some herders’ camels became worth more money dead than alive. Camel herders couldn’t make enough money selling camel milk and wool when camel meat was more in demand. This essentially forced herders to slaughter their own camels in order to survive their changing political environment.
But this story has a happy ending! In 1997, the newly formed Camel Protection Association created the Thousand Camel Festival in order to reverse that trend and protect the Bactrian camel.
Mongolia races to preserve two-humped camels
Did you know the coarse fibers of Camel Hair are waterproof? For this very reason, Mongolian herdsmen will use it for coats and for the outer layers of their 'gers’ or yurts. The gers are portable circular dwellings commonly used in Central Asia, particularly Mongolia.
These dwellings have been used for thousands of years, however, you might be surprised to learn that, even today, more than half of the Mongolian population continues to live in them.
Mongolian gers can brace against the harsh heat and cold of the desert environment. Their structure is formed from wooden lattice and poles, tied together with horse hair rope. This is then typically covered in several layers of felt (a type of fabric made by applying moisture, heat, and pressure to wool) and often covered in canvas to further protect the shelter from the elements. In the middle is a fireplace for heating and cooking. When the inside to be cooled, the outer layers of the ger can be rolled up letting fresh air through a gap between the ground and the walls.
The most popular ger is 5-sided and uses 81 poles to create the peak in the roof. The number nine is auspicious in Mongolian culture so 81, derived form 9 times 9, is symbolic. Many consider this a lucky number and believe it connotes longevity, happiness, and good luck!
Mongolian gers can be bigger or smaller depending on their use, and may even have up to 108 poles, an equally highly regarded number in the Buddhist religion. This number holds significance as in Buddhism there are said to be 108 earthly desires in mortals, 108 lies humans tell, and 108 human delusions. During a yoga practice, 108 Sun Salutations are often practiced to honor change!
Camel wool is widely considered to be one of the most environmentally sustainable animal fibers.
While other types of wool animals may be mistreated during the fiber harvesting process, the chances of animal cruelty occurring during camel wool harvesting are more limited. The Bactrian camel is one of the only sources of wool in the world that naturally sheds its hair every year. Because of this, it is hardly ever necessary or economically expedient to restrain these animals and shear the entire camel.
A man collects camel hair as the camel molts naturally
In terms of sustainability in the actual manufacturing of the fabric, no caustic or toxic chemicals are used during the harvesting or processing of camel wool, and it is rarely dyed. Even when it is dyed, producers tend to prefer natural dyes.
Camel wool is also an entirely biodegradable substance, which means it does not contribute to pollution when it is eventually discarded.
Below are several sustainable fabric and clothing companies who offer camel wool products:
Additional resources for informatiom about camel wool: