Cathy’s Trans Canada Trail

Port Hastings: the adventure begins

With the Causeway in my rear-view mirror, I veered left at the roundabout in Port Hastings and under a highway sign denoting, “Inverness, Port Hood, Margaree Forks.”

The sign also indicated the road as Route 19 and the Ceilidh Trail. Earlier research revealed the drive would be about 100 kilometres long, wind its way along the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and, according to tourism ads, encompass a "string of beautiful communities and majestic coastline vistas bound together by musical traditions."  

To understand that last bit, it’s good to know that the Scottish Gaelic language and cultural traditions were brought to the region by Scottish immigrants who settled on the island in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, many hold tightly to their roots with the help of language programs, music and more. 

That history also helps to explain the bilingual (English / Gaelic) community boundary signs posted along the Ceilidh Trail. (Incidentally, “ceilidh” — pronounced “kay-lee” — is a Gaelic word meaning “gathering”. From an early age, I knew a  Cape Breton ceilidh  to be a place, whether a community hall, pub or festival, where folks come together to enjoy traditional music and dance.) 

Suffice it to say, when I turned onto the Ceilidh Trail, I felt in store for a good time. 

Of course, I hadn’t diverted from my normal course to Sydney to party. I chose the alternative so I could check out a new-to-me section of the Trans Canada Trail: the  Celtic Shores Coastal Trail . I’d read that the 92-kilometre, multi-use route follows a former railway corridor along Cape Breton’s western shores, from Canso Causeway to Inverness, with striking coastal views. It sounded like photography heaven so off I went on the Ceilidh Trail, with plans to make occasional stops to explore the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail, which is organized into  five sections with trailheads and parking  at each: 

• Ceilidh Coastal Trail, 22 kilometres   

• Judique Flyer Trail, 19 kilometres   

• Chestico Trail, 17 kilometres   

• Mabou River Trail, 20 kilometres   

• Inverness Shean Trail, 16 kilometres   

Troy Station Trailhead: a warm welcome

At the Troy Station Trailhead, birds of all kinds welcomed me warmly as the waters of St. George’s Bay sparkled in the midday sun. I gave my legs a stretch along the crushed gravel path, plenty wide to ensure easy passing by a friendly cyclist.  

(Hit the arrow buttons to see more photos of the Trail!)

Ceilidh Coastal Trail: a hot start

Not a kilometre into the rejuvenating stroll on the Ceilidh Coastal Trail section of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail, I realized it was quite hot and decided to return to my car for water. While rehydrating, I meandered to nearby interpretative panels about the Trail and the area’s history.  

Ceilidh Coastal Trail: history, stories and smiles

I learned that Hugh Skinner — one of the original Scots to receive a land grant in the 1800s — constructed a grist mill where grain was ground to flour. He and his wife, Catherine Beaton, raised 13 children, many of whom married and remained in the vicinity. It made me wonder if the Skinner and Beaton families I knew growing up could trace their lineage to the couple. 

Before leaving Troy, I spoke with Christiane Prud'homme and Claude Ponton of St-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Quebec, who were picnicking at the trailhead and thoroughly enjoying their East Coast stay. I attribute their broad smiles in this image to the humour I injected attempting to converse in French. 

Troy: wrapping up the first jaunt

I bid my adieu and retreated to a cool vehicle. “How ironic!” I chuckled to myself, passing trail entrance signs with various tips, including a reminder to keep hydrated. Obviously, I should have read that before hitting the trail! 

Thankfully, my first jaunt was a short one and my recovery from the heat speedy. 

Stay tuned for part two: Cathy’s adventures along the  Celtic Shores Coastal Trail  from Troy to Judique!