Landscape of the Pico Island Vineyard Culture
A model of growth and adaption in a seemingly infertile landscape
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Inscription Date: 2004
The 987-ha site on the volcanic island of Pico, the second largest in the Azores archipelago, consists of a remarkable pattern of spaced-out, long linear walls running inland from, and parallel to, the rocky shore. The walls were built to protect the thousands of small, contiguous, rectangular plots (currais) from wind and seawater. Evidence of this viniculture, whose origins date back to the 15th century, is manifest in the extraordinary assembly of the fields, in houses and early 19th-century manor houses, in wine-cellars, churches and ports. The extraordinarily beautiful man-made landscape of the site is the best remaining area of a once much more widespread practice (UNESCO, 2004).
A Portuguese Archipelago
Pico Island lies within the Azores, an archipelago and autonomous region of Portugal about 1,000 miles from the mainland. Essentially a mountain range arising from the North Atlantic Ocean, the Azores are defined by a humid, sub-tropical climate and volcanic activity (Encyclopaedia Britannica, 2019). The island's beauty is astounding and draws tourists from all around the world.
An Island Within the Azores
Pico Island
The second largest island within the Azores, Pico Island also boasts the highest point in all of Portugal. Mt. Pico is the dominating landscape feature in the center of the island at a height of 7,713 feet (Identifiable on the map to the right by the darker orange color in the center)(Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004). Eruptions of the volcano have created a distinctive basaltic substratum as well as the large lava fields that cover most of the island. Arising from the metaphorical and physical ashes are a diverse ecosystem with various exotic animal and plant species. Pico Island has a population of 15,761 people, with most people living in the concentrated cities and villages of Madalena, São Roque do Pico, and Lajes do Pico (Shown by the orange markers on the map to the right). Residents survive off an economy based on cattle raising, ferrying, ecotourism (Encyclopaedia Britannica, 2013), and of course, the export of their world famous Verdelho wine and vineyard culture.
The map to the right shows the tinted hillshade of Pico Island - Green is lower, flatter elevations, where yellow and orange colors represent higher, steeper elevations. As the map illustrates, most of the island is dominated by elevated terrain, and most developed areas including the vineyard culture is situated on the flatter areas.
Culture defined by Landscape
The Pico Island vineyard culture arose from one of the most seemingly futile environments. With an enormous volcanic mountain protruding in the center of the narrow island, viable, flat agricultural land was limited. In addition, early volcanic eruptions left the soil infertile for many of the usual staple crops. As the map to the right shows, the area of the World Heritage Site is concentrated in very specific regions of the island. The yellow area on the map to the right symbolizes the proposed protected area of the World Heritage Site (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004). In these zones, the traditional vine growing and winemaking techniques have been best preserved and reflect the outstanding ability of humans to adapt to even the harshest landscape. On the same map, the orange area represents the buffer zone of the World Heritage Site. Here, the vineyard culture still remains, but more modern buildings and landscape features threaten the integrity and history of the site. Lastly on the map to the right, the orange dots mark the locations of vineyard agglomerates, or small villages connected to a vineyard where most of the winemaking process would take place. Although the agglomerates differ slightly between the fifteen locations, they are usually comprised of distilleries, cellars, manor homes, and churches, often built using volcanic stone and other island resources. The composition of these agglomerates is a testament to the communities dedication to the vineyard culture and landscape.
As shown in the Tinted Hillshade map above, the vineyards and agglomerates are concentrated to the Northern and Western coasts, because this is where the largest extent of flat land and basalt rock fields could be found. As shown in the Land Cover map below, the vineyard areas are covered by mostly low woody shrub, as this is one of the limited wild plant species that can grow in the volcanic stone.
Ground to Grape
Vineyards like no other
Since Pico Island does not offer many agricultural opportunities, the question for the Picoenses was how to shape the island to support their needs. It would involve intense, but sustainable manipulation of the landscape that from an outsider would seem unrealistic: cultivating life from the unliving.
But before that… A brief history:
Vine cultivation and wine production here dates back to some of the first inhabitants of Pico Island in 1460 - almost 500 years ago (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004). A friar in the village of Lajes by the name of Pedro Gigante planted some of the first vines in a patch of brambles that he knew would be protected from predators and the elements. Later on, in the 16th century, Franciscan and Carmelite monks would bring their knowledge of wine production and recipes to the island. Since wine was an essential part of many Christian masses, the grape cultivation was not only economical but spiritual. By the 19th century, the viniculture reached its height, with the distinctive sweet Verdelho wine being exported and traded all over the world, producing as many as 12,000 to 15,000 barrels of wine a year.
But how exactly did these vines grow in this climate? And what influence does the landscape take in shaping and creating the vineyard culture?
In order to get the vines to grow in through the basaltic substratum, growers scrap and chisel into the rock using an “alvião” or metal tool (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004). Yet, the vines cannot survive in the rock unprotected. The harsh winds and saltwater from the coast threaten the stability of the vineyards. As a result, the distinctive structure of the Pico Vineyards arises in response to these conditions. The development of systems of stone walls made from the extraneous basaltic lava rock was used to surround different groups of vines, protecting them from the effects of the grating climate and environment. Unlike the traditional parallel rows of European vineyards, the Pico vineyards seem wild and disorderly, but in reality, are immaculately maintained. While the traditional vineyard organization produces uniform textures of shades of green pleasing to the eye, the Pico vineyards are an aesthetic playground, contrasting the dark lava stones against bright green leaves in a ripple of textures and patterns.
The vineyards are divided into sections called jarões (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004) which are outlined by a double wall of rock about 2 meters high. The jarões are then divided into Canadas, which are parallel single walls with a height of about 1 meter. The canada walls contain the currais, which are Single or double walls that form a "curral" of about 9 to 12 meters in which about three vines are planted in each. On the Northern part of the World Heritage Site, the vineyards are smaller with a combination of both circular and rectangular currais which are able to better protect from the strong northerly winds. The Western side of the site is less wind prone and has more extensive vineyards and mainly rectangular currais.
Not only do the walls act as a barrier from the natural elements, but they retain the heat so the vines do not freeze when the temperature gets colder overnight. The lava field also acts as a natural drainage system for excess water. The growers on Pico have continued to nurture this system of vine growing that has proven itself a stalwart method of grape production over its 500 year history.
It is curious to say that, if one was to arrange these walls into one continuous line, they would extend along the equatorial line, twice around the perimeter of Earth. (Duarte 2001)
Grape to Barrel
The majority of wine produced on Pico comes from the grape variety known as Verdelho ("Landscape of the Pico Island Vineyard Culture", n.d.). This grape produces a white wine that has become famous for its sweet flavor. The Verdelho variety thrives here because it is resistant to the dry climate, which helps to bring out its high sugar levels.
The map to the right depicts the standard organization of a Pico Island Vineyard and its associated agglomerate. By the coast, you will see a port where wine could be easily exported, a dense village center comprising of tidal wells, distilleries, warehouses, churches, and manor homes, and then the extensive vineyard beyond the village. In this specific map, the agglomerate shown is that of Lajido on the Northern coast of the World Heritage site. Here you will find a combination of both the circular and rectangular currais.
As outlined in the timeline above, the growers and laborers may not use any mechanical assistance when tending to and harvesting the vineyard. For this reason, the Picoenses have used the land to their advantage when harvesting. Since all the grapes are hand-picked and because wheeled transport is difficult over volcanic rock, the stone walls of the vineyards were built with descansadouros (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004) or carved out areas on the wall where workers could rest, without having to put the heavy baskets all the way on the ground. In order to carry products to further locations on the island, mules and wagons were used. However, because of the extensive lava fields, rilheiras, or tracks carved into the stone were used so the carts could easily maneuver over the unforgiving landscape. Once the wine was finally ready to be exported, workers used rola-pipas or areas of carved out of stone on the coast where barrels of wine could be easily passed to the boats. All these features remain testaments to the ingenuity and perseverance of the islands inhabitants to skillfully adapt to their landscape.
A Celebration of Harvest
The process of maintaining a vineyard and producing wine is an intense, involved, and tiresome process. In an environment where the quality of the vines are constantly at odds with natural elements, and in which traditional manual labor techniques are meticulously upheld, the wine making process is even more vigorous.
However, at the end of the harvest, when the wine is bottled and barreled and shipped all over the world, the work becomes worth it. In each of those bottles is a little bit of Pico - a liquid profession of love to an extraordinary landscape.
While the island celebrates many festivals along with those related to the harvest, in 1982 the Festival of Vine-growing and Winemaking was introduced to revitalize and promote the outstanding vineyard culture that has shaped the island (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004).
In Harmony
While the Pico Island vineyards have survived for around 500 years, the changing environment, technology, and shifting demographics have threatened the vineyard culture. As owners and winemakers become older and the cost of production becomes higher, there has been an abandonment and disinterest of younger generations in the traditional vineyard techniques (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004). As urbanization occurs in cities like Madalena on the island, the viniculture appears a less sustainable practice for many. Many vineyards have become overgrown and currais and other walls have deteriorated as a result of this shift in interest and practice. Besides cultural factors, Pico Island also remains vulnerable to its extreme environment. The Azores still experiences high levels of earthquake activity as a result of being situated on a triple meeting point of plate tectonics. Urbanization impacts such as the Pico Airport remain controversial in their effects on the vineyards. And of course, the ominous climate change that threatens the entire world - on Pico this means more extreme coastal erosion, changing temperatures, and extreme weather systems that impact the integrity of the vineyard landscape.
However, if any lesson can be learned from the Pico Vineyard Culture, it is one of resilience, adaption, and ingenuity. In 1980, laws were passed on the island to help protect the vineyard culture and landscape (Silva & Carqueijeiro, 2004). These acts supported the reconstruction and refurbishing of historic vineyard buildings, revitalizing abandoned vineyards, and efforts to promote continued cultivation of the vineyards under traditional methods of production. The inscription of the Landscape of the Pico Island Vineyard Culture as a World Heritage Site in 2004 was a symbol of recognition that the impact of this landscape would not be forgotten. With this inscription came an upswing of ecotourism and once again worldwide recognition for the unique Verdelho wine and corresponding cultural landscape.
The story of the Pico Island vineyards is one of imagination and innovation. It reflects the human ability to connect to an environment in an incredibly multidimensional way. For the Picoenses, the landscape was a blank canvas. They were given hardly anything to work with, a surface as barren and blank as literal slate. Yet, they saw the potential. Through the cracks in the stone, they cultivated not only life but an extraordinary visual masterpiece that showcased true human ingenuity. The currais were as much built out of the landscape as they were innately a part of it.
The Pico landscape birthed a culture entwined with its protection. The vineyards are not just economical, they are sustainable. The people of Pico only take from the landscape as much as they give to it. The landscape and its people seem to mirror each other: they both are hardy, gracious, and capable. Both the humans and the landscape are two incredibly complex creations of nature, but against all odds, in perfect harmony with each other.