The Birds of Worcester Park and Lower Morden

60 years around the patch, with Bob Smith.

Tucked away, in a south west London suburb, are a mosaic of green spaces that individually would warrant little attention. However, taken as a whole, they make up a significant area with a variety of habitats. Bob Smith has been working this patch for 60 years. We caught up with Bob to give us a tour, tell us about the changes over the years, and also what surprises it still throws up.


My first question to Bob was whether the patch was in London or Surrey for recording purposes. "It's part of  Surrey Bird Club's  old vice-county boundary." This stretches as far north as the River Thames at low tide, and as far east as  Surrey Commercial Docks  (now Surrey Quays). "However, it also falls within the  London Natural History Society's  boundary, a 20 mile radius from St. Paul's. My observations go to both clubs."

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London or Surrey? (Source: National Biodiversity Network)

The patch is that nearest piece of remnant countryside to Bob's house. Until the late nineteenth century the area consisted of three farms. Urbanisation began in 1859 when Worcester Park railway station opened. You get a feel for what it may have looked like in the 1870s below. Farmland birds such as  Yellowhammers  and  Turtle Doves  would have been regular breeders, some of which lingered on until the mid-twentieth century.

Patch, past and present. (Sources: Digimap, Esri)

The area consists of eleven distinct sites, although  The Hamptons  is a private estate that includes Mayflower Park and the Pools. The patch contains oak woodland, grassland, meadows, shrub, scrub, rivers, lakes and reed beds, spread over 230 acres. Wherever you walk, the gas holders to the west appear on the horizon.

I remember watching a friend climb an Elm tree in the horse fields in the 1950s. He came back with a Carrion Crow's egg in his mouth. 

Bob has lived in Worcester Park his entire life, and has kept bird records since 1961. He visits the patch two or three times a week, but also does a monthly pre-set walk, between 09:00 and 12:00, where he counts every bird he sees that is not in flight. He described it as follows:

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"I begin at the horse fields, which has a path running through the middle.

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From here I turn left into the gas holder woods, and walk along a track that run the length of it.

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When I emerge at the other end, I cut across  Sir Joseph Hood Park .

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Then I enter  Morden Cemetery and Crematorium  through a side gate. I normally do a circuit of this and come out the opposite side.

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Next, I turn right, and go down a lane that runs between the two cemeteries.

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When I get to the  paddock  it's a left into what us locals call 'Pig Farm Alley'. That's what stood at the other end until the Second World War.

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From 'Pig Farm Alley' I take a right into the  Hamptons , and meander through the pools. This takes us to a path, and back to where we started.

The walk takes me about 2 hours, and gives a good indication of the abundance of birds at particular times of year."

I sometimes visited the Sewage Works with a friend, either legally, by asking permission and accompanied by the Chief Engineer, or illegally, by climbing over the railings. 

The Hamptons Estate

Bob is eager to tell me about this spot. "This used to be Worcester Park Sewage Works until the mid 1990s, with 10 lagoons and much waste-weedy ground, attracting many species." It's worth taking a look at his 1961 notebook, which contains the following observations rarely seen today:

The sewage works remained closed until the current housing development opened in 2006, beginning what Bob calls the 'modern era'. Residents pay for the upkeep of Mayflower Park and the Wetlands. This includes 6 reed fringed pools that were originally fenced off from the public. "During those early years of the  Hamptons , there were  Little Grebes ,  Teal  and a lone  Green Sandpiper ."

Things began to change when a board walk was opened for the public, and the pools became a fishery. The variety of birds declined, although Bob thinks this could be for a variety of reasons, not just habitat changes, as many species were in decline nationally. However, today on the pools, you are still likely to see  Reed Buntings  and a  Kingfisher  all year round, as well as the usual tame wetland species. In summer,  Reed Warblers  and  Whitethroats  are regular breeders.

Reed Bunting on reeds in winter sun.

 Reed Bunting 

The Paddock & Stables

This had been allotments during the war, with an area of scrub and grassland. Bob remembers it fondly. "We'd get summer migrants, like  Whinchat ,  Meadow Pipits  and  Tree Pipits . Then in winter, if the weather was hard,  Yellowhammer  and  Corn Bunting  would occasionally turn up."

Today it is a good spot to catch a  Redwing  or  Little Egret  on the quiet fields at the top of the hill.

The Horse Fields

This is now a tranquil area of grassland, with a substantial amount of blackthorn, but used to be quite different. "There was no track when I was young. It used to be one large field with no horses or scrub, part of it a landfill site. There were some Elm trees, but these were lost in the  1970s epidemic . The changes have certainly been beneficial for birdlife."

The presence of horses and their feed provides sustenance for  Stock Doves ,  Wood Pigeons  and, importantly,  House Sparrows . After national declines, the latter has seen increasing numbers on the patch.

You are also likely to see finches and thrushes in winter, feeding on the berries. In particular  Chaffinch ,  Greenfinch ,  Redwing  and  Fieldfares . In spring and autumn it becomes a stop-off for migrating species, such as  Yellow Wagtails  and  Wheatears .


A Tale of Two Brooks

The Beverley Brook borders the patch to the west, and its tributary, the Pyl Brook, to the east.

The Beverley Brook

The etymology suggests beavers would have lived here hundreds of years ago.

They begin as urban rivers, but after they merge, the Beverley weaves its way through  Wimbledon Common  and  Richmond Park , eventually joining The Thames at Putney.

For many years the Beverley Brook was heavily polluted by waste from the sewage works. Since its closure, many birds have returned, in particular  Grey Wagtails .

The Pyl Floodwater

This is perhaps the patch's best kept secret. Tucked away, behind a housing estate, few people visit.  Whitethroats ,  Lesser Whitethroats  and  Chiffchaffs  can all be found here in summer, nesting in the brambles and scrub. Two ponds also attract all manner of wildlife.


Morden Cemetery

Bob can recall when  Tree Sparrows  and  Spotted Flycatchers  bred here, but these have both seen a nationwide decline. Like most cemeteries, it has lots to offer, and is becoming a patch favourite with him. "This area is little altered, and if anything has seen recent improvements, with the introduction of flower meadows, and more concern for ecology on behalf of the council."

It's a great place for butterflies and even has  Roe Deer  roaming about. When it comes to birds you are very likely to see a  Green Woodpecker . A  Kestrel  tends to frequent the north side of the cemetery. The star attraction, however, is the  Little Owl , that normally sticks to the west side, nearest the horse fields.

 Little Owl  (Chris Northwood, 2020)

Gas Holder Woods

This oak woodland was planted in in the 1860s, possibly for timber or as a screen for the new railway. It was closed to the public for many years but that didn't deter Bob. "I seem to remember entering from the horse field, via a hole in the fence. There was a  Rookery  here until 1968 with eight nests, their demise coinciding with the closure of the landfill site."

Today the woods are a stronghold for  Ring-necked Parakeets  and  Great Spotted Woodpeckers , although there were many  Treecreeper   sightings in 2020. Summer brings plenty of  Blackcaps , and when the leaves fall in winter, you should see a tiny  Goldcrest , finally revealing itself.

The gas holders are also a good place to spot a perched  Peregrine  falcon, on the look-out for its next kill. This is a species that was only spotted on the patch for the first time in 2006. After years of persecution, many birds of prey are returning, with  Red Kites  and  Buzzards  regularly seen flying over the patch.


Eight Redwing!

2020 saw the patch's first sightings of  Nightingale ,  Wood Warbler  and  Goosander . Inspired by this, Bob has lots planned for 2021. "We lost some reedbeds in Mayflower Park last autumn, as they plan to create some wildflower meadows. I intend to observe the effect this may have on breeding birds."

"I hope to also estimate the populations of some of the more common species, such as  Song Thrush ,  Dunnock  and  Wren . As always, I will continue to monitor the breeding territories of summer visitors."

Directions and access: The patch is within walking distance of Worcester Park and Motspur Park train stations. Parking is available on Green Lane by the horse fields entrance, or by the paddock via Garth Road. Visitors should check with the cemeteries for seasonal opening hours. Other sites are open at all times. With the exception of the gas holder woods and horse fields, all locations are suitable for those with disabilities.

Further Reading

  • Rymill, D. (2000) Worcester Park and Cuddington: A Walk through the Centuries. Surrey: The Buckwheat Press
  • Rymill, D. (2012) Worcester Park, Old Malden & North Cheam: History at our Feet. Surrey: The Buckwheat Press
  • Smith, R. (2016) Patchwork: Writings and Photographs. Uxbridge: Alba Publishing
  • Wheatley, J. (2007) Birds of Surrey. Hersham: Surrey Bird Club

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to the following people. Without their help this article would not have been possible.

  • Jess Mead and  South East Rivers Trust , for the historical notes and superior shapefile of the Beverley Brook and Pyl Brook.
  • Chris Northwood, for the photographs and more literature than I could possibly read.
  • David Rymill, for the huge amount of information on local history.
  • Bob Smith, for the inspiration and sharing so many memories.

Credits:

All images by Charlie Alpera except where stated.

Surrey Vice-County Boundary Shapefile

 National Biodiversity Network . Contains OS data © Crown copyright [and database right] [2021].

Beverley Brook and Pyl Brook Shapefile

1870s map

EDINA Digimap Ordnance Survey Historic Service 1870 (Licensed) © Crown Copyright and Landmark Information Group Limited 2021. All rights reserved.

Satellite Imagery

Esri ArcGIS Map Service, powered by Earthstar Geographics

Patch, past and present. (Sources: Digimap, Esri)

Eight Redwing!

 Little Owl  (Chris Northwood, 2020)