The Birds of Worcester Park and Lower Morden
60 years around the patch, with Bob Smith.
Tucked away, in a south west London suburb, are a mosaic of green spaces that individually would warrant little attention. However, taken as a whole, they make up a significant area with a variety of habitats. Bob Smith has been working this patch for 60 years. We caught up with Bob to give us a tour, tell us about the changes over the years, and also what surprises it still throws up.
My first question to Bob was whether the patch was in London or Surrey for recording purposes. "It's part of Surrey Bird Club's old vice-county boundary." This stretches as far north as the River Thames at low tide, and as far east as Surrey Commercial Docks (now Surrey Quays). "However, it also falls within the London Natural History Society's boundary, a 20 mile radius from St. Paul's. My observations go to both clubs."
London or Surrey? (Source: National Biodiversity Network)
The patch is that nearest piece of remnant countryside to Bob's house. Until the late nineteenth century the area consisted of three farms. Urbanisation began in 1859 when Worcester Park railway station opened. You get a feel for what it may have looked like in the 1870s below. Farmland birds such as Yellowhammers and Turtle Doves would have been regular breeders, some of which lingered on until the mid-twentieth century.
Patch, past and present. (Sources: Digimap, Esri)
The area consists of eleven distinct sites, although The Hamptons is a private estate that includes Mayflower Park and the Pools. The patch contains oak woodland, grassland, meadows, shrub, scrub, rivers, lakes and reed beds, spread over 230 acres. Wherever you walk, the gas holders to the west appear on the horizon.
I remember watching a friend climb an Elm tree in the horse fields in the 1950s. He came back with a Carrion Crow's egg in his mouth.
Bob has lived in Worcester Park his entire life, and has kept bird records since 1961. He visits the patch two or three times a week, but also does a monthly pre-set walk, between 09:00 and 12:00, where he counts every bird he sees that is not in flight. He described it as follows:
"I begin at the horse fields, which has a path running through the middle.
From here I turn left into the gas holder woods, and walk along a track that run the length of it.
Then I enter Morden Cemetery and Crematorium through a side gate. I normally do a circuit of this and come out the opposite side.
Next, I turn right, and go down a lane that runs between the two cemeteries.
When I get to the paddock it's a left into what us locals call 'Pig Farm Alley'. That's what stood at the other end until the Second World War.
From 'Pig Farm Alley' I take a right into the Hamptons , and meander through the pools. This takes us to a path, and back to where we started.
The walk takes me about 2 hours, and gives a good indication of the abundance of birds at particular times of year."
I sometimes visited the Sewage Works with a friend, either legally, by asking permission and accompanied by the Chief Engineer, or illegally, by climbing over the railings.
The Hamptons Estate
Bob is eager to tell me about this spot. "This used to be Worcester Park Sewage Works until the mid 1990s, with 10 lagoons and much waste-weedy ground, attracting many species." It's worth taking a look at his 1961 notebook, which contains the following observations rarely seen today:
- 29th April: 2 Redshank , 1 Turtle Dove , 2 Stonechat
- 1st May: 8 Lapwing , 4 Linnet
- 2nd May: Meadow Pipit (12 pairs), 2 Skylark
The sewage works remained closed until the current housing development opened in 2006, beginning what Bob calls the 'modern era'. Residents pay for the upkeep of Mayflower Park and the Wetlands. This includes 6 reed fringed pools that were originally fenced off from the public. "During those early years of the Hamptons , there were Little Grebes , Teal and a lone Green Sandpiper ."
Things began to change when a board walk was opened for the public, and the pools became a fishery. The variety of birds declined, although Bob thinks this could be for a variety of reasons, not just habitat changes, as many species were in decline nationally. However, today on the pools, you are still likely to see Reed Buntings and a Kingfisher all year round, as well as the usual tame wetland species. In summer, Reed Warblers and Whitethroats are regular breeders.
The Paddock & Stables
This had been allotments during the war, with an area of scrub and grassland. Bob remembers it fondly. "We'd get summer migrants, like Whinchat , Meadow Pipits and Tree Pipits . Then in winter, if the weather was hard, Yellowhammer and Corn Bunting would occasionally turn up."
Today it is a good spot to catch a Redwing or Little Egret on the quiet fields at the top of the hill.
The Horse Fields
This is now a tranquil area of grassland, with a substantial amount of blackthorn, but used to be quite different. "There was no track when I was young. It used to be one large field with no horses or scrub, part of it a landfill site. There were some Elm trees, but these were lost in the 1970s epidemic . The changes have certainly been beneficial for birdlife."
The presence of horses and their feed provides sustenance for Stock Doves , Wood Pigeons and, importantly, House Sparrows . After national declines, the latter has seen increasing numbers on the patch.
You are also likely to see finches and thrushes in winter, feeding on the berries. In particular Chaffinch , Greenfinch , Redwing and Fieldfares . In spring and autumn it becomes a stop-off for migrating species, such as Yellow Wagtails and Wheatears .
A Tale of Two Brooks
The Beverley Brook borders the patch to the west, and its tributary, the Pyl Brook, to the east.
The Beverley Brook
The etymology suggests beavers would have lived here hundreds of years ago.
They begin as urban rivers, but after they merge, the Beverley weaves its way through Wimbledon Common and Richmond Park , eventually joining The Thames at Putney.
For many years the Beverley Brook was heavily polluted by waste from the sewage works. Since its closure, many birds have returned, in particular Grey Wagtails .
The Pyl Floodwater
This is perhaps the patch's best kept secret. Tucked away, behind a housing estate, few people visit. Whitethroats , Lesser Whitethroats and Chiffchaffs can all be found here in summer, nesting in the brambles and scrub. Two ponds also attract all manner of wildlife.
Morden Cemetery
Bob can recall when Tree Sparrows and Spotted Flycatchers bred here, but these have both seen a nationwide decline. Like most cemeteries, it has lots to offer, and is becoming a patch favourite with him. "This area is little altered, and if anything has seen recent improvements, with the introduction of flower meadows, and more concern for ecology on behalf of the council."
It's a great place for butterflies and even has Roe Deer roaming about. When it comes to birds you are very likely to see a Green Woodpecker . A Kestrel tends to frequent the north side of the cemetery. The star attraction, however, is the Little Owl , that normally sticks to the west side, nearest the horse fields.
Little Owl (Chris Northwood, 2020)
Gas Holder Woods
This oak woodland was planted in in the 1860s, possibly for timber or as a screen for the new railway. It was closed to the public for many years but that didn't deter Bob. "I seem to remember entering from the horse field, via a hole in the fence. There was a Rookery here until 1968 with eight nests, their demise coinciding with the closure of the landfill site."
Today the woods are a stronghold for Ring-necked Parakeets and Great Spotted Woodpeckers , although there were many Treecreeper sightings in 2020. Summer brings plenty of Blackcaps , and when the leaves fall in winter, you should see a tiny Goldcrest , finally revealing itself.
The gas holders are also a good place to spot a perched Peregrine falcon, on the look-out for its next kill. This is a species that was only spotted on the patch for the first time in 2006. After years of persecution, many birds of prey are returning, with Red Kites and Buzzards regularly seen flying over the patch.
Eight Redwing!
2020 saw the patch's first sightings of Nightingale , Wood Warbler and Goosander . Inspired by this, Bob has lots planned for 2021. "We lost some reedbeds in Mayflower Park last autumn, as they plan to create some wildflower meadows. I intend to observe the effect this may have on breeding birds."
"I hope to also estimate the populations of some of the more common species, such as Song Thrush , Dunnock and Wren . As always, I will continue to monitor the breeding territories of summer visitors."
Directions and access: The patch is within walking distance of Worcester Park and Motspur Park train stations. Parking is available on Green Lane by the horse fields entrance, or by the paddock via Garth Road. Visitors should check with the cemeteries for seasonal opening hours. Other sites are open at all times. With the exception of the gas holder woods and horse fields, all locations are suitable for those with disabilities.
Further Reading
- Rymill, D. (2000) Worcester Park and Cuddington: A Walk through the Centuries. Surrey: The Buckwheat Press
- Rymill, D. (2012) Worcester Park, Old Malden & North Cheam: History at our Feet. Surrey: The Buckwheat Press
- Smith, R. (2016) Patchwork: Writings and Photographs. Uxbridge: Alba Publishing
- Wheatley, J. (2007) Birds of Surrey. Hersham: Surrey Bird Club
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to the following people. Without their help this article would not have been possible.
- Jess Mead and South East Rivers Trust , for the historical notes and superior shapefile of the Beverley Brook and Pyl Brook.
- Chris Northwood, for the photographs and more literature than I could possibly read.
- David Rymill, for the huge amount of information on local history.
- Bob Smith, for the inspiration and sharing so many memories.