"Skóg til eldíngar og kolgjörðar á jörðin i sinu landi"

The history of the woodlands of Þingvellir from a literary perspective

There is a running joke in Iceland that asks "what should you do if you get lost in a forest in Iceland?", to which the answer is "you stand up". The idea behind this is that forests are alien to the Icelandic landscape, that it is impossible to get lost in an Icelandic forests because there are none. Modern research, on the contrary, has shown on the basis of pollen analysis that forests were in fact once a part of the island's landscape. Not only this, but also inquiry into historical sources has helped paint a different picture of what a medieval Icelandic woodland actually was.

One such example is the Bláskógar (The Blue Woods), nowadays known as the Þingvallaskógar, a wooded area that generally extendes eastwards from Þingvallabær. Its original extent is unknown, however several sources mention not only the Bláskógar but also other woodlands surrounding sorrounded Þingvallavatn.

The following map compiles all direct mentions of the Bláskógar in the Sagas of Icelanders. While the accounts in these narratives are largely legendary, the setting of the stories was well-known to their authors. Even if it is true that there is a gap of at least three centuries between the chronology of the stories and the redaction of the Sagas, which undermines the credibility of the account, we can at least observe how the forest was likely percieved by the writers. There are a total of three direct mentions in all the Sagas, however the forest is mentioned multiple more times in several other stories, even though the word Bláskógar is not used.

1

"En maðr hafði sekr orðit of þræls morð eða leysings, sá er land átti í Bláskógum."

Íslendingabók

2

"Björn gullberi nam Reykjardal hinn syðra og bjó á Gullberastöðum. Hans son var Grímkell goði í Bláskógum; hann átti Signýju Valbrandsdóttur, Valþjófssonar"

Landnámbók

3

"Þórhallur hét maður. Hann bjó í Bláskógum á Þórhallsstöðum."

Ölkofra saga

The woodlands at Þingvellir are nowadays significantly reduced in comparison to what, it is thought, they used to be. The following picture shows a view of the Þingvellir area, looking towards the church. Contrary to what many people may think, at the beginning of the settlement period it is likely that the area was almost completely covered in birch(Betula pubescens) wood and that the forest extended greatly over the landscape.

A view of Þingvellir

The area of Þingvallabær and the Aliþingi itself has little woodland (althought this is changing). Nonetheless accounts from the Sagas and even from historical letters (compiled in Diplomatarium Islandicum) and the Jarðabók mention extensive forests nearby.

Skóg á staðurinn bæði mikinn og góðan, en mjög svo er skógurinn til skemda höggvinn og eyddur. (Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Vídalíns)

Place names in Þingvellir National Park

The points on the map bellow mark relevant place-names associated with woodland within the present boundary of Þingvellir National Park. Some of the place-names are quite modern, and others date further back in time. However a comparison of place-names with the historical sources actually shows similarities as to where forests were located. The place-names shown are all words associated with skógar(forest). Furthermore, around the Þingvallavatn area there are also several place-names that contain words implying charcoal production was taking place, something that we can infer required the presence of trees. In this way, place-names can help locate areas which may have been covered by woodland.

Goðaskógar

Goðaskógar. Click to expand.

This forest was mentioned to have burned in Ölkofra saga, it may have been part of the Bláskógar, adjacent to it or a different forest.

Bláskógar

Bláskógar. Click to expand.

(Þingvallaskógar)

Skógartögl

Skógartögl. Click to expand.

This placename could be referring to a limit within a forest

Viðivellir

Viðivellir. Click to expand.

This placename references wood

Skógarholt

Skógarholt. Click to expand.

Another placename which references forests.

Biskupsvördurskógur

Biskupsvördurskógur. Click to expand.

Magnúsarklettsskógur

Magnúsarklettsskógur. Click to expand.

Höfðaskógur

Höfðaskógur. Click to expand.

Hrútabrekkurskógur

Hrútabrekkurskógur. Click to expand.

Skógarkotsgata

Skógarkotsgata. Click to expand.

Skógarkotsvegur

Skógarkotsvegur. Click to expand.

Viðivallagata

Viðivallagata. Click to expand.

Skógarhólar

Skógarhólar. Click to expand.

Skógarnef

Skógarnef. Click to expand.

Skógtangi

Skógtangi. Click to expand.

Goðaskógar

This forest was mentioned to have burned in Ölkofra saga, it may have been part of the Bláskógar, adjacent to it or a different forest.

Bláskógar

(Þingvallaskógar)

Skógartögl

This placename could be referring to a limit within a forest

Viðivellir

This placename references wood

Skógarholt

Another placename which references forests.

Biskupsvördurskógur

Magnúsarklettsskógur

Höfðaskógur

Hrútabrekkurskógur

Skógarkotsgata

Skógarkotsvegur

Viðivallagata

Skógarhólar

Skógarnef

Skógtangi

Written sources: Mentions of woodland

The map below focuses on written sources. It reflects material from all the Sagas, all the Þáttur, Diplomatarium Islandicum, Biskupaannálar and Jarðabók, all of these texts ranging from short after the settlement period to around 1714. When observing the two maps, there is a high level of consistency between place-names and sites said to have had forests in historical sources.

Góðaskógur

Bláskógar/Þingvallaskógar

Bláskógaheiði

Grímkellstaðir

Grímsstaðir

Lyngdalsheiði

Fangbrekka

Þingvallakirkja

Reykir í Ölfusi

Gjábakka

Mjóanesskarhraun

Arnarfell

Vatnskot

Þórallastader

Hrauntún

Hrauntún

Brúsastaðer

Kárastaðir

Stíflisdalur

Skálabrekkur

Heiðarbæ

Góðaskógur

"Þar brann skógur sá er kallaður var Goðaskógur." Ölkofra saga.

Bláskógar/Þingvallaskógar

"En maðr hafði sekr orðit of þræls morð eða leysings, sá er land átti í Bláskógum." Íslendingabók.

Bláskógaheiði

"Þeir riðu þar til er þeir komu á Bláskógaheiði." Brennu-Njáls saga.

Grímkellstaðir

"Þar er nú kallað á Grímkelsstöðum og eru nú sauðahús.Þar er nú kallað á Grímkelsstöðum og eru nú sauðahús." Harðar saga og Holmverjar

Grímsstaðir

"Grímur keypti þá land suður frá Kluftum er hann kallaði á Grímsstöðum og bjó þar síðan." Harðar saga og Holmverjar

Lyngdalsheiði

"Ríður hann þá austur Lyngdalsheiði og svo austur á Síðu"Hrafnkels saga Freysgoða

Fangbrekka

"Það gerist eitt sumar á alþingi að í Fangabrekku gengust menn að sveitum" Víga-Glums

Þingvallakirkja

"Þar var skógur sem var í eigu Þingvallakirkju" Diplomatarium Islandicum, volume 4.

Reykir í Ölfusi

"Eingiar og skoga." Diplomatrarium Islandicum, volume 10.

Gjábakka

(Giabacka)

"ad Efre Bru ætte ecke sköginn a Giabacka." Diplomatarium Islandicum, volume 14.

Mjóanesskarhraun

"Skóg til eldíngar og kolgjörðar á jörðin i sinu landi" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Arnarfell

"Skóg af litilsvægu rifhrísi og úngviði á jörðin í Arnarfelli" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Vatnskot

"Skóg og haga og aðrar landsnytjar"Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Þórallastader

(Skógarkot)

"Þórallastader2) liafa kallaðir verið í skógunum og meinast hafi löngu fyrir manna minni bygð verið" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Hrauntún

"Hrauntún hefur kállað verið örnefni eitt í skógnum" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Hrauntún

(norður-austur)

"Annað Hrauntún hefur og kallað verið í skógnum í norð- austur frá þessu og skamt eitt þar i frá" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Brúsastaðer

"Skóg til eldíngar, kolgjörðar og raftviðar brúkar ábúandi í Þíngvallnaskógi" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Kárastaðir

"skóg til eldíngar, kolgjörðar og raftviðar brúkar ábúandi ókeypis í Þíngvallna skógi" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Stíflisdalur

"Skóg til eldíngar, kolgjörðar og raftviðar brúkar ábúandi i Þíngvallnaskógi, þó ærið lángt sje til hans að sæk" Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Skálabrekkur

"skóg til eldíngar, kolgjörðar og raftviðar kaupir úbúandinn í Þingvallna skógi " Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

Heiðarbæ

"skóg til eldingar, kolgjörðar og raftviðar segist ábúandinn brúka í Uíngvallna skógi með leyfi prestsins, þó ókeypis." Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Víðalíns.

One interesting thing to note is how sources show variations in the extension of the forests from the area. Furthermore, Ölkofra saga mentions a forest fire, as so does Biskupaannálar (1586), with yet another known from 1859/60.

The evolution of the woodland: A timeline

The following is a brief summary of the state of woodland areas according to the sources during different time periods.

Settlement period

Woodland coverage was extensive, estimates suggest that about 40% of Iceland was wooded. The sagas suggest that the area started being populated even before the establishment of the Alþingi. With the establishment of farms a certain level of deforestation can be expected.

930

The Alþingi was established, the Sagas claim the forest near it became public property and was used to collect wood. (Land þat varð síðan allsherjarfé, en þat lögðu landsmenn til alþingis neyzlu. Af því er þar almenning at viða til alþingis í skógum ok á heiðum hagi til hrossahafnar. Íslendingabók)

Ölkofra saga/1025

Although likely written during the 14th century, the saga takes place around the year 1025. The story mentions a fire that burned various forests. Góðaskógar (in close proximity or within the Bláskógar) is said to have burnt. Although the saga itself may be fictional, the authors may have been illustrating an event preserved in their collective memory.

1270

Vatnsdæla saga says "hann reið af þingi á Bláskógaheiði". This in an interesting quote, as previous Sagas mention that the Alþingi is located in the area of the Bláskógar. The fact that by 1270 the Alþingi is said to be in the bláskógaheiði (heath) could suggest that the area had become deforestated.

1564

A forest near Gjábakka is mentioned. The text implies that the forest was preserved or that there was not much damage.

1586

The Biskupaannálar states that a forest fire took place in Þingvallaskógar/Bláskógar

1702-1714

The forest from Gjábakka is said to have been destroyed and cut down. Gjábakka is in close proximity to Bláskógar, so it is plausible that the destruction was related to forest fires, to the coal production that seemed to have been taking place in various farms around the area or to other reasons related to habitation of the area.

1702-1714

Various accounts from Jarðabók mention how Þingvallaskógar was used for wood and other activities, and how it served various farms. Some farms had to pay a fee to use it, however there were two farms which had rights of usage for free.

This timeline sheds some light into various aspects of Þingvallaskógar. Firstly, the area of Þingvellir had quite a few farms surrounding it, most of which obtained wood from the Bláskógar. Second, a number of accounts make reference to the fact that charcoal was being produced in various parts of the forests of Þingvellir. Charcoal production could be linked to iron smelting and smithing (as mentioned in Ölkofra saga). Charcoal production and ironworking may in turn explain the occurrence of forest fires at Þingvellir in the past. These changes can actually be noted in historical accounts, which give limited descriptions of the forests, but enough to understand that changes were ocurring.

Before and after: a reduction in coverage

To the left, is an estimation of settlement-medieval period woodland coverage in the region surrounding Þingvaææavatn, to the right, is an estimate of current woodland cover. The difference is quite striking.

Discussion

As mentioned previously, Þingvallaskógar was an important source of wood, not just for the farms in the area but also for those in different localities. However, they are rarely mentioned in the historical record. Both Diplomatarium Islandicum and Jarðabók have repeated mentions of woodland in Þingvellir, but Biskupaannálar and Skálhot records barely name the area even though the estate associated with Þingvallabær was a beneficium of the diocese at Skálholt. This could be the result of a number o things. The area was clearly important as attested in Jarðabók, but maybe it was so taken for granted that everyone was aware of it and therefore there was no need to continuously mention it. There are in fact several Bláskógar place-names south of Þingvallavatn, in Þjórsardal and in other areas of the country. The places extending south of Þingvallavatn may have been part of the Bláskógar next to the alþingi as well, all of which could have been a big extension of woodland. It could also be the case that Bláskógar was a normal place-name for forests.

Moreover, the sagas, which were mainly written during the 12 th  and 13 th  centuries often do not mention the name of the forests (except for Íslendingabók and Lándnambók) , which could imply that the time period in which the forest was called “Bláskógar” may not have been the settlement period but rather during the authors timeframe. The place-name references seem to be in agreement with forests referenced in historical sources. Some place-names can give an idea of the extent of a forest or a limit to it (ex: Skógartögl or Skógarnef). However, rather than indicating the end of a forest, it may have indicated an administrative division based on farm rights. Overall, for such an important area, it is rarely mentioned in historical sources particularly in the oldest material of Diplomatarium, which contains letters from very early periods of time.

This brief survey of the historical sources that directly or indirectly mention Bláskógar shows how written sources are vital tools to understand the state of the landscape in Iceland over the centuries. From this, a dialogue emerges between geography and history where we can use both modern technology and medieval sources to find traces of woodland in the area of Þingvellir. The value of historical sources lies in the fact that these present us with the actual interactions of the inhabitants of Iceland with the landscape around them.

Conclusion

The potential in this kind of approach in mapping the medieval landscape of the island is to be found in the fact that historical sources, along with Saga narratives material and other documents can take us North and South of Iceland, from the West Fjords to the East Fjords, in order to discern what kind of physical reality the authors of all these texts were facing. This, of course, requires a level of cooperation with other disciplines and sciences that can corroborate or nuance the findings of historians.

Contributors

The following institutions contributted to the development of this project:

The Þingvellir National Park

Rannsóknamiðstöð Íslands:

The University of Iceland:

Sources:

Bandamannasaga, Biskupaannálar, Brennu-Njáls saga, Diplomatarium Islandicum, Egills saga, Harðar saga og Holmverjar, Hrafnkels saga Freysgoða, Íslendingabók, Jarðabók Árna Magnússonar og Páls Vídalíns, Lándnámabók, Laxdæla saga, Ölkofra þáttur, Sturlunga saga, Vatnsdæla saga, Vígla-Glúms saga.

A view of Þingvellir