San Juan Islands National Historical Park

GLO Record of the Week for September 6, 2020

This week's General Land Office Record of the Week includes a unique survey plat of San Juan Islands National Historical Park, located in the northern region of Washington state. The San Juan Islands' exquisite scenery, saltwater seashore, and quiet woodlands are a few features that make this National Park well known. This park was first settled when a continental ice sheet formed 11,000 years ago.

This map shows a survey plat of the San Juan Islands for Township 36 North, Range 2 West of the Willamette Meridian surveyed by James Tilton Sheets. Sheets was the nephew of James Tilton, former surveyor general for Washington state. At the age of 16, Sheets served as a messenger for his uncle's Surveyor General Office. In 1873, Sheets started GLO surveys and joined a group of GLO surveyors.

One year later, Sheets received contracts for 11 townships that were surveyed in 1874. Interestingly, this was the same year that his survey for the San Juan Islands began, Sept. 7, 1874! The survey was then approved Nov. 19, 1874, by surveyor general, William McMicken.

San Juan Islands History: The 1700s

In the earliest historical times of the San Juan Islands, its ancestors were members of six Central Coast Salish tribes, a group of indigenous people who spoke a variety of northern straits languages. In addition to sharing languages, their culture and ways of life are what shaped the history of the San Juan Islands. The tribes also survived from a wide range of earthly resources available on the Islands.

The Lummi people were later generations of Coast Salish people whose ancestors originated in the San Juan Islands. They participated in harvesting, fishing, and gathering food from many different locations of the islands. More than ever, they celebrated life in many ways that they could.

Every season, the tribes would also follow travel patterns between large winter villages and small resource collection camps. Winter conditions caused many of the Coast Salish tribes to move to villages on the shore, where they felt protected from harsh winds and could store their food.

A Coast Salish woman from the earliest tribes of the San Juan Islands participating in shellfish capturing.

The 1774 Spanish Voyage and Islands' Name Origin

The Spanish Voyage of 1774 included voyage conductor and Spanish explorer, Juan Pérez, who was the first Spanish explorer to sail from Mexico to the Pacific Northwest. Upon his arrival to the islands, the Coast Salish tribes experienced devastating European diseases, which made them feel unsafe. The tribes chose to build forts in response to the voyages to avoid the disease and possible slave raids.

In 1791, the island was first named "Isla y Archipelago de San Juan" by Spanish Explorer, Francisco de Eliza.

San Juan Islands in the 1800s

In 1846, the United States and Great Britain chose to separate the Oregon Country into the province of British Columbia and the current states of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and certain parts of Wyoming and Montana.

The Treaty of Oregon was then signed June 15, 1846, setting a water boundary along the 49th parallel by the Rocky Mountains, to the middle along the Haro Strait and Rosario Strait. Then, the water boundary reached out along the Strait of Juan De Fuca.

This treaty left the San Juan Islands in the middle of the division. The islands featured many attributes that attracted Great Britain and the United States, including its rich soil, temperate climate, and marine resources.

The Pig War

By the start of 1845, Hudson's Bay Company, a fur-trading enterprise, claimed the San Juan Islands and founded Belle Vue Sheep Farm in response to the islands being claimed by the U.S. in 1853. This image, to the right, shows a picture of Belle Vue Sheep Farm in the 1800s.

Painting of Belle Vue Sheep Farm's "Home Prairie" depicted in September 1859 during the height of the Pig War Crisis.

Eventually, 18 Americans settled on British Columbia's prime sheep grazing lands. Though the Americans felt that this transition was completely legal by the U.S. government, the British viewed it as illegal and considered each American settler a trespasser.

The dispute of the islands between Great Britain and the U.S. peaked when Lyman Cutlar, an American settler, killed a company pig using a shotgun, June 15, 1859. This incident enraged the British as they threatened to arrest Cutlar and remove all of his countrymen from the island. The U.S. response was through Brig. Gen. William S. Harney, anti-British commander from the Department of Oregon, who ordered Company D 9th Infantry Division with a total of 64 soldiers of the U.S. Army to the island, July 27, 1859. The military division was run under Capt. George E. Pickett.

Capt. George E. Pickett, Brig. Gen. William Selby Harney, Gov. James Douglas, and Capt Geoffrey Phipps Hornby were the main leaders of the Pig War Crisis in July 1859.

Pickett's arrival to the San Juan Islands angered Vancouver Island Gov. James Douglas and lead him to send out a 31-gun HMS Tribune warship, lead by Capt. Geoffrey Phipps Hornby, to force Pickett out of his position.

Peaceful Agreement

The Pig War crisis lead to an uproar between both nations until the arrival of Rear Adm. R. Lambert Baynes, commander of British naval forces in the Eastern Pacific. When Baynes learned that two countries were going to war over a disagreement about a pig, he was shocked and stated that he would not allow this war to happen.

During a conference between Baynes and Lt. Col. Silas Casey, Baynes rejected the call upon Casey and his 171 men to go to war over the dispute of the San Juan Islands.

As the news spread about the crisis in Washington, both nation's officials were appalled. As a result, Gen. Winifred Scott and President James Buchanan traveled to the San Juan Islands to investigate and suppress the potential war.

The San Juan Islands continued to be under military tenancy until 1871. This was the year when the Treaty of Washington was signed by Great Britain and the U.S. The decision was to give the San Juan Islands to the United States after Kaiser Wilhelm I, Emperor of Germany, and his three-men commission ruled for the United States to establish the boundary line through the Haro Strait.

This image shows Belle Vue Sheep Farm in the present-day.

Current Map of San Juan Islands National Monument

View this video of San Juan Islands National Monument from BLM Oregon:

Sights and Sounds: San Juan Islands National Monument

Current Map of San Juan Islands National Monument

A Coast Salish woman from the earliest tribes of the San Juan Islands participating in shellfish capturing.

Painting of Belle Vue Sheep Farm's "Home Prairie" depicted in September 1859 during the height of the Pig War Crisis.

Capt. George E. Pickett, Brig. Gen. William Selby Harney, Gov. James Douglas, and Capt Geoffrey Phipps Hornby were the main leaders of the Pig War Crisis in July 1859.