*The Cost of Fashion

The price tags on the clothes we buy represent more than just the monetary cost to us. Hidden behind the price tag of the clothing racks in department stores across the world is a story of unsustainable practices that endanger the environment and human life...

These are not isolated incidents, the fashion industry continues to disregard its unsustainable practices, often at the expense of human health and safety as well as the environment. Although the fashion industry is responsible for the treatment of workers and the environmental impact of the production process, we as consumers are not entirely innocent either.

As consumers, we have a certain degree of power to influence the industry and the first step we can take is to educate ourselves about the current process and alternatives to the status quo.

In 2015, the United Nations established a framework of Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to address environmental and social issues across the globe.

The SDGs are a set of 17 interrelated goals and corresponding indicators to help governments, corporations, and individuals identify ways in which they can contribute to positive change in a variety of different areas.

(Click on the caption below each icon to be redirected to the UN website and read more about the individual SDG)

The SDGs provide a framework for tracking and evaluating efforts to address unsustainable practices in both the private and public sectors.

Some of the SDGs are used throughout this presentation to highlight the impact of the fashion industry.

The production process is replete with severely undervalued labor and environmental consequences/effects at every stage of production. This section provides a basic outline of the production process from raw material to retail and then analyzes the sustainability of current industry practices in relation to the SDGs.

Raw Materials

Natural Fibers: derived directly from plants and animals, which can be spun directly into threads with minimal processing (Examples include cotton, silk, wool)

Semi-Synthetic Fibers: derived from natural sources, but are then treated with synthetic chemicals in order to process them into threads (Examples include modal, viscose, rayon)

Synthetic Fibers: entirely man-made fibers through the process of polymerization, usually with a base of nonrenewable resources such as coal, fossil fuel and oil (Examples include polyester, acrylic, nylon)

Textiles

Fibers are spun into thread or yarn and any combination of fibers is then weaved, often through an automated process in a factory, into textile fabrics. Textiles may be dyed at any point in the process.

Clothing

Textiles are then cut and sewn by seamstresses in factories. Depending on the use for the final product, different finishes (e.g. flame retardant) are applied to the textile/garment.

Retail

Once a finished product is assembled, it is packed with other finished pieces and shipped to retailers around the world. Since production is often centralized, this process results in transportation emissions.

Although the fashion industry $2.4 trillion to global manufacturing and employs 300 million people, $100 billion is lost annually due to underutilization and is the second most polluting industry next to the oil industry itself. The industry as a whole is believed to be responsible for 2-8% of greenhouse gas emissions. The industry largely operates within a fast fashion business model. Exact definitions for "fast fashion" vary, but the core of this business model is represented in the speed of production in terms of fashion trends.

This section focuses on SDGs 8, 12, 14, and 15. However, a full report on how the fashion industry correlates is available from the  UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion , which also hosted a hard talk as part in the United Nations High Level Political Forum 7 July 2021. Both the report and recording are available before for reference.

The current capitalist economy has relied on the systematic devaluation of labor, which has led to poor worker compensation, hazardous working conditions, and in some cases the use of child labor.

Cut pieces of fabric are rarely reintroduced to the clothing manufacturing process and are usually discarded, resulting in pre-consumer fashion waste.

Although dyes can be derived from natural sources, many currently used are chemical and can pollute the surrounding environment and pose health risks to factory workers and the environment.

The industry as a whole consumes 215 trillion liters of water for factory operations.

Synthetic textiles contribute to 9% of microplastics found in the ocean since washing polyester and other synthetics releases microplastics into the water system. Animals found in the bottom of the Mariana Trench (36,201 feet deep) have been found to contain microplastics in their systems. Consuming microplastics can impede their ability to reproduce and process nutrients, which disrupts the ocean's ecosystems.

Treatments for the textile finishes and dyes often produce chemical waste and untreated waste water also poses dangers to marine life.

As the example from Tehuacan, Mexico illustrates, wastewater can impact life on land as well.

Since many factories involved in the production process operate on fossil fuels, they also contribute to localized air pollution, which can have a harmful effect on local residents and factory workers.

While cotton may be a natural fiber, its production uses an exorbitant amount of water and pesticides.

For perspective: an adult human requires approximately 1,000 liters of water per year

Cotton T-Shirt: 2,700 liters of water to produce enough cotton

Pair of Jeans: 9982 liters of water to produce enough cotton

All of these consequences of fast fashion are indicators of its unsustainability not just economically, but environmentally and socially as well.

However, even the way we consume articles of clothing to stay "fashionable" perpetuates this cycle of unsustainable behavior. We as consumers also participate in fast fashion when we purchase from retailers who source their goods from these polluting and exploitative factories.

"Can we merely blame the clothing industry or do we all as purchasers of cheap clothes have responsibility for the disaster in Bangladesh and the numerous others that afflict the clothing industry worldwide? Do we really want fast fashion that workers give their lives for? Not to mention the extensive abuse of workers, whether through child labour, poor working conditions or exposure to other occupational hazards..." (Hobson 2013)

This section touches on some of the current concerns related to sustainable fashion consumption and is broken down using SDGs 12, 14, and 15 as a frame of reference.

People are buying 60% more clothes than previous decades, but only keeping them for about half as long.

Some of the ways in which consumers dispose of their clothing are not as sustainable as they may seem.

What we buy, how long we keep it, and what we do with it after we no longer use it has far reaching consequences.

Similar to how the production of clothing can generate microplastics, washing clothing at home does the same. Although the amount produced is greater in the early stages of its lifespan, synthetic fibers will continue to produce microplastics throughout the duration of their life. These microplastics not only pollute waterways, they also affect life on land.

Besides making their way into the water systems, microplastics eventually make their way into the ground. The reason why this is possible is because even though wastewater from laundering can be treated, the microfibers and microplastics remain in the sewage sludge. This sludge is sometimes used as fertilizer, which can then contaminate the food grown in that soil.

The extremely low monetary cost of clothing due to the industry's the fast fashion business model has resulted in clothing that is treated as disposable by some consumers.

On average, around 68 pounds of clothing per individual is deposited in landfills across the United States every year.

Despite our current contribution to fast fashion, we can utilize our powers as consumers and participants in the system to encourage the transition towards a sustainable and ethical fashion industry. We can do this by altering our purchasing habits and planning for what to do with the garment after it has run its course. Thinking about what happens after consumption is one of the first steps in moving towards a circular economy, where we reduce the amount of waste produced by fashion production and consumption. Before we can fully close the loop, there are simple steps we can take in the meantime.

Consuming clothing is more than simply buying something at the store because. After purchasing, we should also consider how we will maintain the item and have a plan of action for what to do when the item has passed its usefulness with us.

Eventually, we all need to acquire new clothing as old pieces wear out or become damaged. One of the best things we can do is buy less and buy better quality, but that doesn't necessarily have to mean paying a high price tag.

Thrift Shops: many places often offer brand new clothing at a significantly reduced price and it may be possible to find some interesting pieces, but don't discount the used clothing either.

Buying locally or from small scale producers: this option encourages smaller scale production and can give back to your local community. If it is difficult to find a local clothing shop, it is possible to find small scale producers on websites like Etsy. If you know what style you're looking for, it may also be possible to find specialty stores for your specific interests/style.

Renting Clothes: some businesses have developed a model around renting everyday clothing. However, these may contribute to emissions and the use of chemicals due to laundering.

washing less frequently : unless a garment has accumulated a lot of sweat throughout the day, it is possible to wash clothes less frequently. Washing clothes less frequently has the dual benefit of extending a garment's structural integrity and reducing the frequency of introducing microplastics into the water system. Additionally, installing a microplastic filter or using a laundry bag specifically designed to trap microplastics can help reduce their level in the water systems.

washing at lower temperatures: using lower temperatures keeps energy costs lower and is less likely to damage the fabric.

air drying clothing: not using a drying a machine, as is common in the United States, can help reduce the energy cost of clothes maintenance while also potentially extending the life of clothes. If worried about wrinkles, consider partially air drying for a while before tossing clothes in the dryer for a shorter time.

learning basic mending such as darning or finding someone who does: As the old saying goes, "a stitch in time saves nine." Learning how to darn or sew patches is also a useful skill to help maintain clothing. Local tailors may offer such services if you don't have the time to learn or if you find the task a bit intimidating.

Donating clothes: while not inherently bad, but even this can have severe consequences when it becomes the primary post-consumption plan for everyone. Thrift stores often sell their abundant surplus of clothing in bulk for extremely low prices to developing countries, which can disrupt their indigenous textile industries and traditions.

Sharing clothes: consider swapping clothes with a friend or family member in your size to reduce the amount of clothing purchased.

Repurposing: if a garment is no longer wearable, consider cutting it up and using it as a cleaning rag, to line baskets, or even sewing practice!

*Composting clothes made out of 100% natural fabric is also possible*

Check out an example of a local effort to compost fabric at the Rosebud Continuum near Tampa, FL by clicking the link to the 3D model below and click the caption under the map to explore other projects at Rosebud!

Regardless of what we choose to do, it is clear we cannot keep living within the consumerist culture that is currently interwoven into the very fabric of our lives. Reestablishing our relationship with our clothes and appreciating the process through which it is made is something we are all capable of doing to live more sustainably.

ActNow for Zero-Waste Fashion (2019). UN Sustainable Development Goals.

Bangladesh: Tragedy shows urgency of worker protections. (2013, April 25). Human Rights Watch. https://www.hrw.org/news/2013/04/25/bangladesh-tragedy-shows-urgency-worker-protections

Chen, X., Memon, H. A., Wang, Y., Marriam, I., & Tebyetekerwa, M. (2021). Circular Economy and Sustainability of the Clothing and Textile Industry. Materials Circular Economy, 3(1), 1-9.

Claudio, L. (2007). Waste couture: Environmental impact of the clothing industry. Environmental Health Perspectives, volume11(issue 9) 449-454.

Death toll from Karachi factory fire soars. (2012, September 12). BBC. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-19566851

Gardetti, M. A., & Muthu, S. S. (Eds.). (2020). The UN Sustainable Development Goals for the Textile and Fashion Industry. Berlin, Germany:: Springer.

Hobson, J. (2013). To die for? The health and safety of fast fashion.

Laitala, K., Klepp, I. G., & Henry, B. (2018). Does use matter? Comparison of environmental impacts of clothing based on fiber type. Sustainability, 10(7), 2524.

Meier, L. (2021). Synthesis report on United Nations system-wide initiatives related to fashion. UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion.

Microplastics in wastewater: towards solutions (2020). UN Environment Programme.

Muthu, S. S. (2016). Textiles and clothing sustainability. Springer Verlag, Singapor.

Palacios-Mateo, C., van der Meer, Y., & Seide, G. (2021). Analysis of the polyester clothing value chain to identify key intervention points for sustainability. Environmental Sciences Europe, 33(1), 1-25.

Scheidt, C. (2018). Unraveling Threads–How to Have a Sustainable Wardrobe in the Age of Plastic Fabric.

Simões, M. (2021). What do our clothes say about us? United Nations Development Programme.

Tuckman, J. (2007). Distressed denim trend costs Mexican farmers the earth. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2007/aug/17/waste.pollution

The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion. (2021, July 8). https://unfashionalliance.org/.