Samuel Lister in Ireland
Travels of a Young Ensign
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In 1812, young Ensign Samuel Lister left Halifax with his father, Jeremy Lister, en route to Ireland. He was to join the British army’s 84th Regiment of Foot, stationed in Fermoy, a town on the banks of the river Blackwater. Along the way, Sam had a chance to see a little of some Irish cities and towns, as well as admire the countryside. His observations about his travels were preserved in his journal and correspondence with his sister Anne . This map aims to compile Sam's commentary and allow you to follow him on his travels in Ireland.
From Halifax to Fermoy
01 / 11
1
Halifax
In the autumn of 1812, Samuel Lister packed his bags, left his family's home near North Bridge in Halifax, and started his journey to Ireland. The North Bridge from Sam's time pictured above had been opened to the public in 1774, for the first time eliminating the need for pedestrians and vehicles to cross the Hebble Brook and its valley by going down and then up its steep slopes (Calderdale Libraries 2009).
“On the 6th of Oct[obe]r 1812 I first left Home to join my Reg[imen]t, the 84th, then laying at Fermoy in Ireland. A neat little town situated on the river Black-Water & principally belonging to a gentleman of the house of Anderson;”
Samuel Lister, 6 October 1812 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
2
Liverpool
“My Father left me in Liverpool on the 8 expecting the Packet to sail that day, but as she did not, I was detained another day which was very disagreeable as the town was all confusion owing to the election.”
Samuel in a letter to his sister Anne Lister, 15 October 1812 ( SH:7/ML/45 )
The election Sam referred to in his letter is likely the 1812 UK General Election , which took place between 5 October and 10 November 1812.
In October 1812, Samuel wrote in his journal that he couldn't sail on the 8th due to unfavourable winds. However, he left England on the 9th "with a fair wind, in the Duke of Richmond Packet". This was likely one of the vessels operated by the New Dublin Packet Company, which started advertising a packet service to Dublin in 1810.
3
The Crossing
“We sailed on Friday the 9th at one oclock & did not reach the Pigeon-House till one oclock on Sunday. I was very sick nearly all the way, & obliged for some time to stay on deck, as the cabin was so very close but it begun to rain which forced me down where I lay on the sofa half-dead from the evening till morning when I was a little better, but obliged to lay still as the least motion made me sick again.”
Samuel in a letter to his sister Anne Lister, 15 October 1812 ( SH:7/ML/45 )
4
The Pigeon House Hotel, near Dublin
“& after a prosperous voyage reached the Pigeon House on the 11th about 1 oclock P.M. and when I had extricated myself from those Harpies, the Custom House officers, I embarked in the Long Coach for Dublin which I reached about 2”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 11 October 1812 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
5
Dublin
“We stopped at the Mail Coach Hotel in Dawson Street not one of the first inns but convenient as the coaches go from there to the different parts of Ireland - I left Dublin about 8 oclock the same night /11/th which gave me little opportunity of seeing it I however saw a few of the streets, & the outside of the Parliament House, that was, which is very fine. But I should not forget to mention that on my passage I met with a Cap[tai]n Macnamara of the 67th who cheated me out of a pound note which he borrowed and forgot to pay, but perhaps it may be a good thing for me in the end as it will teach me to be more sparing of my money.”
Samuel Lister, 11 October 1812 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
In a letter to his sister Anne, Samuel remarked on the expense of accommodation in Dublin:
“I thought myself lucky in leaving Dn[Dublin] so soon as you know an Ensign’s purse & an expensive inn do not agree.”
Samuel in a letter to his sister Anne Lister, 15 October 1812 ( SH:7/ML/45 )
6
Carlow
Sam eventually fell asleep after leaving Dublin and, on the 12th of October 1812 , he woke up in a completely different environment:
“This morning I found myself near Carlow after having travelled the whole night”
Carlow is located 84 kilometres south-west of Dublin, and is the most important town in County Carlow. By the time Sam passed through it, the town had already been inhabited for centuries.
The engraving above shows the ruins of Carlow Castle, which was originally built in 1180 to defend the River Barrow. When Sam travelled past on his way to Fermoy, the castle would still have been mostly intact. However, Carlow Castle was partially demolished in 1814, after a doctor attempted to convert it into an asylum. The explosive charges placed near the castle’s base resulted in more demolition than intended, leaving only the west wall and towers standing after the blast.
7
Kilkenny
“as it was very cold on the top of the coach I remained in the inside till we came near Kilkenny - about which the Country pretty. I saw little of the city as the coach stopped at an inn in the outscirts [outskirts] of the town, I had however an opportunity of seeing the outside of an old castle belonging to L[or]d Ormond from Kilkenny”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 12 October 1812 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
Kilkenny is a city located in the Irish province of Leinster. The settlement dates from the 6th century and used to belong to the mediaeval Irish kingdom of Ossory . In 1324, Kilkenny was also the site where the first recorded Irish witch trial took place, which culminated with a woman being burnt at the stake for witchcraft.
The castle Sam referred to in his journal entry above is likely Kilkenny Castle , which at the time belonged to the Butlers of Ormond. Though said to have been in poor shape in the 18th century, the castle was subjected to a restoration in the 19th century. This was an attempt to restore the castle to its original mediaeval appearance and rebuild a wing and a wall, with further extensions put in place in 1854.
8
Callin [Callan]
“From Kilkenny the country was still fine to Clonmel, betwixt the two last places, there is a place called Callin [Callan] & in the country about it there are great numbers of old castles in a very ruinous state owing to the civil wars in Oliver Cromwells time -”
Samuel in a letter to his sister Anne Lister, 15 October 1812 ( SH:7/ML/45 )
Callan is the second largest town in County Kilkenny and is located on the road to Clonmel, 16 kilometres south of Kilkenny. This settlement was founded in 1207 and, in 1650, it was besieged by Oliver Cromwell and his army. A battle for the town ensued when some defenders refused to surrender to Cromwell’s forces, which led to the demise of many of those defenders and also townspeople who had sought refuge in the castle and parish church.
The town of Callan is also the location of the Callan Motte (pictured), one of the most well-preserved motte-and-baileys in Ireland. This structure was essentially a primitive castle built after the Normans invaded, consisting of a mound of earth with a palisade and tower above. The Callan Motte dates from 1217 and local legend attests that cannons were put atop it by Cromwell’s soldiers when the town was besieged in 1650.
9
Clonmel
“the next place of any note was Clonmel which I understand is a fine old city, but merely passing through it was impossible to form an opinion of it. The most I remarked was the streets which were very narrow as they were also in Kilkenny”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 12 October 1812 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
As Samuel had keenly observed, Clonmel was an old city. It is said the town was founded by Danes who ventured up the Suir River and ended up settling on the banks of what would later become Clonmel town. The town walls were erected around 1267, after the sheriff of County Tipperary was granted the manor of Clonmel.
Like Kilkenny, Clonmel would also eventually come into possession of the Butlers of Ormond when a marriage dowry brought the manor there into the possession of a member of that family. The town is also known for resisting a month-long siege in 1650, when Oliver Cromwell and his army attacked it. Clonmel would eventually surrender on good terms. A few centuries later, in 1912, Clonmel would become the birthplace of the Irish Labour Party and, in more auspicious times, in November 2015, it also became the location of the first marriage between two men in Ireland.
10
Ardfinnan castle ruins
“from Clonmel I saw nothing worth noticing till I arrived at Fermoy excepting an old castle called [Arfennum] [Ardfinnan] which had its walls & towers still standing though in a very ruinous state.”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 12 October 1812 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
Ardfinnan Castle is located on the River Suir, around 11 kilometres from Clonmel. It was built in 1185 to guard the river crossing. This location proved to be consequential. In 1650, Oliver Cromwell’s army attempted to gain the bridge at Ardfinnan and was forced to lay siege to the castle, which culminated with the defeat of the Parliamentarians there and the surrendering of the castle itself. When Cromwell’s campaign in Ireland ended, the Parliamentarians purposely damaged the building to make it less valuable for enemy forces and left it in ruins.
In 1795, the castle would be occupied again by the British Army, which sought to take advantage of the strategic location of the ruins. In the 19th century, Ardfinnan Castle and 15 acres of land were reinstated to the descendants of Maurice de Prendergast and the building would eventually be subjected to a Victorian conversion that turned it into a country house.
11
Fermoy
“I arrived here on Monday /12th/ night about 7 oclock & staid at the inn till the next morning when I called on Cap[tai]n Lane & we went together to the Colonel’s I dined at the mess on Tuesday & came off wonderfully, without being the least tipsy & am sure I did not drink more than one glass at dinner & 3 after."
Samuel in a letter to his sister Anne Lister, 15 October 1812 ( SH:7/ML/45 )
Fermoy was Samuel Lister’s final destination. At the time, the 84th Regiment of Foot of the British Army was stationed at the barracks there. Samuel would be part of the second battalion of this Regiment and, for the remaining months of his life, would spend most of his time in this town.
The town of Fermoy owes its name to a Cistercian abbey founded there in the 13th century. In mediaeval times, after the dissolution of the monasteries, the settlement consisted of a few cabins and an inn. The lands around Fermoy were bought by John Anderson , whose entrepreneurial vision led him to start the mail coach system in Ireland, develop the roads, and design the town itself. Anderson also gave the British Army the lands in which, in 1797, they would establish their permanent basis and build barracks. The town of Fermoy would profit from this and expand around the English barracks over time. The West Barracks were built just before 1809 and would have been relatively new when Sam arrived in Fermoy. Together with the older East Barracks, the British Army had sufficient accommodation for 14 field officers, 169 officers, 2,816 men, and 152 horses.
Other places visited by Sam
Sam remained in Fermoy from the end of 1812 until his death in June 1813. During his stay in this Irish town, Sam’s days were consumed by the vicissitudes of his job and occasional outings with fellow officers on their days off. During these outings, it wasn't uncommon for Sam to go on walks with friends and later comment about it in his journal, often noting the towns they walked past.
Castlehyde
Sam mentions Castlehyde in three separate journal entries dated from February to April 1813, always in connection to activities undertaken on his time off.
[1813 February] “Frid[a]y 12 Took a walk with Jervis round by Castle Hyde and returned with a bilious sickness –”
[1813 March] “Tues[da]y 9 A two Oclock parade. Walked to Castle Hyde…”
[1813 April] “Mon[da]y 19 A field day. after which I with three or four others rowed on the river near Castle-Hyde”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 1813 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
Castlehyde is a townland and estate situated on the banks of the river Blackwater, near Fermoy. A ruin of a four-storey tower house said to date from the 13th century remains on the site today. The tower house was in use until, at least, the 16th century. Following the Desmond Rebellions of the 16th century, the estate was seized by the English Crown and passed to Arthur Hyde, whose family occupied it for several centuries and for whom a manor house was built in the 18th century. It is due to this association with the Hyde family that the estate became known as Castle Hyde or, currently, Castlehyde.
River Blackwater
The Blackwater meanders through Fermoy and is the body of water where Samuel and his army friends would occasionally swim. Consequently, it's not surprising that on the 13th of February 1813, Sam and his comrade Jervis embarked on a little adventure:
[1813 February] “Satur[da]y 13 Walked with Js[Jervis] on the banks of the B[lac]k Water and explored an old tower.”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 13 February 1813 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
Noted for its trout and salmon fishing, the River Blackwater or Munster Blackwater in Ireland stretches about 170 km, from the uplands of Counties Cork and Kerry to the sea at Youghal in County Cork. This is Ireland’s third-largest river. Its habitats range from old oak woodlands and alluvial forests to estuaries and tidal mudflats and sandflats, which serve as refuges for many species of fauna and flora. Due to the presence of protected habitats and species in the area, about 25 kilometres of the Blackwater (between Fermoy and Lismore) were designated a Special Area of Conservation in 2014.
Castlelyons
Castlelyons is a small village located 6 km to the south of Fermoy. Originally, the town was called Castle Lehane after the castle situated there, which belonged to the Sept of Lehane. Of that old castle nothing remains, but another castle was built on the same site, in the 17th century, by the first Earl of Barrymore. This newer castle burned down in 1771 and nowadays only its ruins remain, with three chimney stacks standing watch over them.
Sam walked to Castlelyons a few times in March and April 1813:
[1813 March] “Tues[da]y 2[n]d Walked with Jervis to Castle Lyons.”
[1813 March] “Satur[da]y 6th Walked to Castle Lyons with Jervis, Statham & Slyfield - Nothing new -”
[1813 April] “Wednes[da]y 7 Orderly officer. A Garrison Parade when the Gen[era]l took us a walk as far as Castle-Lyons -”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 1813 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
Careysville and Kilworth
Whilst on a walk with his mates in 1813, Sam also walked past Kilworth and Careysville:
[1813 March] “Mon[da]y 8 Walked with Jervis through Kilworth & returned home by the road past Carey’s-ville [Careysville].”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 8 March 1813 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
Careysville is a property located a few miles to the east of Fermoy and sitting on the south bank of the River Blackwater. It owes its name to the Carey family, who acquired it in the 1650s. And Kilworth is a village situated about 2 kilometres to the north of Fermoy. Its location on the old Dublin to Cork road ensured that it was a notable settlement in the 17th and 18th centuries, only losing that status when a new road was built to connect Fermoy to Cashel.
Watergrasshill
Watergrasshill was also a village Sam knew and mentioned in his journal.
“[1813 March] Fri[da]y 12 Walked on the Cork road within two miles of Watergrasshill with Statham, Jervis and Slyfield.”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 12 March 1813 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
This is a small Irish village in the northeast of County Cork located about 16 kilometres to the south of Fermoy. The village owes its name to the watercress that used to grow in the stream that flowed through the town and was said to be “more luxurious than [in] any other place in Ireland”.
Cork: Sam’s last recorded trip
At the start of the 19th century, Cork was the second-largest city in Ireland and had experienced a change in political circumstances. The Acts of Union of 1800 , which came into effect between 31 December 1800 and 1 January 1801, united the Kingdom of Great Britain and the Kingdom of Ireland, and consequently led to the abolition of the Irish Parliament in Dublin. The mercantile class and Cork Corporation supported the Union created by these acts and, as a result, eyed the possibilities created by increased trade with England. Unsurprisingly, this stance wasn’t popular among the Irish, which left Cork increasingly exposed to possible attacks. To mitigate this, the British Army built new barracks there in 1805. When the barrister and travel writer John Carr visited this city in that same year, he remarked:
“As we approached Cork the view became very fine, the river Lee winding to the cove, a country on each side well cultivated, and dotted with villas; the city, it’s superb barracks, the Mardyke walk, extending a mile under the shade of elms, the new gaol, which has a noble appearance, and the shipping, presented and uncommonly rich, varied, and picturesque prospect.”
The city of Cork in 1799 by Samuel Alken. Public domain.
Around eight years had elapsed since Carr’s tour of Ireland when Sam Lister headed to Cork. On the 5th of May 1813 , Sam wrote on his journal:
“Wed[nesda]y 5 Left Fermoy at five oclock in the afternoon and arrived in Cork a little before eleven -”
and, on the following day, he continued:
“Thurs[da]y 6 This morning I found myself in Cork - In the course of the day I strolled about and saw most of the Lions of the place and left it at 7 oclock in the afternoon and marched as far as Water Grass Hill where I slept till next morning when I set off & got to Fermoy at 9 oclock -”
Journal of Samuel Lister, 6 May 1813 ( SH:3/AB/22 )
Judging by these short journal entries, readers can be led to believe that that’s all that young Ensign Lister recorded about his trip to Cork. However, in a letter to his sister Anne, he elaborated on his thoughts regarding this Irish city:
“I must not forget to tell you that I really have been at Cork, since I wrote to you, it is a pretty city enough, in some parts, but I cannot say upon the whole that it answered my expectations; the streets very few excepted, are narrow and as to public buildings I did not see one; the country betwixt it and Fermoy is still worse scarcely is there a tree to be seen, indeed no part of Ireland that I have yet seen superabounds with trees, though the country is so well adapted to the growth of timber -”
Letter from Sam to Anne Lister, 15 May 1813 ( SH:7/ML/55 )
The Passing of Samuel Lister and the Stories of His Friends
Sam’s journal entries can also be used alongside his correspondence to obtain a more complete picture of what his life was like during his time with the 84th Regiment and how he felt about spending so long in Ireland. By looking at his letters to his sister Anne, Sam’s desire to leave Fermoy was evident.
“my only wish now is to be sent on service, but I fear we shall remain some time in Ireland as we have not yet heard any thing of our destination”
Letter from Sam to Anne Lister, 5 April 1813 ( SH:7/ML/53 )
Unfortunately, Sam never left Fermoy, and never saw combat, because he died on the 19th of June 1813, when he got into a whirlpool and drowned in the river Blackwater (Shouls 2023).
Initially meant to garrison at Gibraltar, the 2nd Battalion of the 84th Regiment of Foot left Fermoy and embarked at Cork for England on the 29th of July 1813 (“Peninsula Campaign 1813-14” 2020). However, the plans changed and, instead of travelling to Gibraltar, the battalion landed at Pasaia, in the north of Spain. They then joined the forces under the command of Major-General Lord Matthew Aylmer .
The British soldiers crossing the Bidassoa Estuary on the 7th of October 1813. Image courtesy of britishbattles.com , photo by J.P. Beadle.
The first action of the Peninsular War in which the 2nd Battalion of the 84th Regiment took part was the Battle of the Bidassoa . Many of the officers Samuel mentions in his journal and correspondence fought in the Peninsula campaign in 1813. Such is the case of his friend Jervis, who is mentioned in several of Sam’s usually concise journal entries. Despite not having written much about Jervis in his journal beyond passing mentions relating to leisure activities they enjoyed together, it is this officer that Sam identified as the person he “liked best” in the army when his sister Anne asked him to tell her about the people he met. In Sam’s words:
“You ask me whom I like best in the Regiment? The person who I like best is Ensign Jervis Son of Sir J.W. Jervis who resides at Clifton, he is a clever sensible lad as any in the Regiment we have begun to read Caesar together of which we read 200 lines or more every morning. After which for recreation we play 2 or 3 games at Chess or walk out -”
Letter from Sam to Anne Lister, 15 May 1813 ( SH:7/ML/55 )
Jervis survived Sam by about six months. In Spain, Jervis saw combat at Bidart and was injured as he served under the Duke of Wellington. Though he survived the battle with a leg wound that required amputation, Jervis died just a day after suffering his injury.
Newspaper article announcing the death of Ensign Humphrey Jervis-White-Jervis. London Courier and Evening Gazette of Tuesday, 4 January 1814. Image © THE BRITISH LIBRARY BOARD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Some of Sam’s friends and acquaintances survived the campaign in the Iberian Peninsula. Ensign Joseph Clavel Sladdon Slyfield was one of them. Slyfield had joined the 84th Regiment as Ensign not long before Sam Lister and the two eventually became friends. After the Peninsular campaign, Slyfield was promoted and eventually ended his army career, in 1841, as a Lieutenant-Colonel. In 1823, he would cross paths with the Norcliffes and the Duffins in York (Lister 7 September 1823; Lister 18 December 1823). Slyfield described Sam to Isabella Norcliffe as someone “beloved by every officer in the Regiment” and “one of the best young men he ever knew” (Lister 18 December 1823).
Joseph Slyfield’s acquaintance with the Norcliffes eventually evolved into a close friendship. Norcliffe Norcliffe, the heir to Langton Hall and Isabella’s brother, accompanied Slyfield on his wedding day. Isabella “Tib” Norcliffe was also a guest at Slyfield’s wedding.
“Miss Fothergill to be married Thursday that would be yesterday to Mr. Slyfield — Mr. and Mrs. Gilby of Beverley being her godfather and godmother she was to be married from their house — Norcliffe was to accompany Mr. Slyfield to the wedding ‘I am delighted with my dearest Norcliffe’s prospects — Beatrix Foulis is a sweet amiable girl, very domestic, and in my opinion in every way cut out for dear Norcliffe, he wrote to my sister and also to my good brother — I never saw 2 happier men than him and Slyfield — Norcliffe will go to town on the 10th of May for 3 weeks or a month, and in June they are to me united — I am to be present at the ceremony’ —”
Anne Lister's journal, 30 April 1824 ( SH:7/ML/E/7/0129 )
On the 6th of May 1824, Joseph Slyfield married Dorothy Elizabeth Fothergill at Saint Mary’s church in Beverley, near York (Church of England. St. Mary's Church (Beverley, Yorkshire) 2024). Tib would later describe Miss Fothergil to Anne as “a sad noodle” (Lister 9 May 1824).
In 1831, Joseph Slyfield bought a commission and was promoted to the rank of Major. The Slyfields would later move to Ireland. Yet, despite travelling to England occasionally and having several acquaintances in common with Anne Lister, Slyfield and Anne never met (Lister 29 August 1831).
A note on Samuel Lister’s journal
The majority of this travel map is written with Samuel Lister’s journal as the main source; we are using about three pages of material from it. The journal covers most of Sam’s time serving in the 84th Regiment of Foot - it starts on the 6th of October 1812 and ends on the 12th of May 1813, five weeks before Sam’s untimely death. In total, the journal spans 11 pages of a quarto notebook made with somewhat thin sheets of paper.
Similarly to other contemporary journals of soldiers, this volume provides a brief chronicle of what life in an English Regiment of Foot was like for a young Ensign. The vast majority of Sam's journal entries are fairly short, and there are periods in which he didn’t think it worth recording the mundane aspects of his day-to-day life, opting instead to simply write “Nothing particular”, or just not bothering to make entries for those uninteresting days. The longest journal entries pertain to Sam’s travels or to unusual happenings during his time in the army, such as a court-martial, a duel, and the movements of other regiments arriving at or leaving Fermoy en route to other places.
An extract from Samuel Lister’s journal showing journal entries from November 1812. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale ( SH:3/AB/22 ).
A similar journal belonging to Ensign John Carter is held by West Yorkshire Archive Service Leeds ( WYL639/388B ). It covers the period between December 1811 to March 1812. Yet, unlike Sam, Ensign Carter saw action on the battlefield and fought in the Peninsular War. A WYAS blog post about this journal includes some extracts that relay Carter's experience serving in this campaign.
Acknowledgements
A debt of gratitude is owed to Lynn Shouls for her kind assistance in proofreading this travel map as well as for reviewing it and providing feedback. Thank you also to Amanda Pryce and Steph Gallaway for proofreading a few versions of this map and providing feedback. I would also like to thank the team at West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, for kindly allowing me to reproduce the image of Samuel Lister’s journal included in this article and for their assistance regarding the usual copyright checks. Finally, thank you to the Local Studies team at Calderdale Central Library for their kind assistance in checking the copyright of the North Bridge image.
How to cite
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Oliveira, Marlene. 2024. “Samuel Lister in Ireland: Travels of a Young Ensign” Packed with Potential. https://www.packedwithpotential.org/travel-maps (accessed MONTH DAY, YEAR).
Note: Don't forget to replace "MONTH", "DAY", and "YEAR" with the corresponding date in which you accessed this article.
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