The Courthouse Square Heritage Tour
Visit the sites of Oxford County's History
Visit the sites of Oxford County's History
There have been four different registry offices in Woodstock since Oxford County was officially designated as a district. Three of them have actually been located in Court House Square, while the first one was located in Ingersoll. However, many County residents found that the registry office in Ingersoll was inconvenient and began petitioning the House of Assembly to establish a registry office in Woodstock.
The Woodstock Library was built in the years after 1905 before officially opening in 1909 as a Carnegie Library. But despite this official opening, the history of the library can be traced back to February 12, 1835, when the Reading Society was formed. This formation was predated by eight months, the official naming of the area as Woodstock, and opened as a society that allowed the borrowing of one book at a time.
The current standing courthouse you see before you was built in the late 1880s before officially opening for the very first time in 1892. But don’t be fooled, this extravagant building was not the first one to exist on this property, and was actually built to replace the original courthouse built in 1839.
Central Public School was built between the years 1878 and 1880 after William Carlyle, the Inspector of Public Schools, reported that the Woodstock school system was in deplorable condition. During his inspection, there were some classes that held up to 87 students, with only one teacher available for such a large class! As a result, in 1878, a space for a new school had been chosen in Court House Square and was bought from the clergy reserves. Mr. Sheard of Toronto won the one hundred dollar prize for the best design and became the Chief Architect and Inspector of Construction of the project.
Before the County Gaol was constructed, there were various locations throughout the community that was used to house prisoners. The tower of Old St. Paul’s church became one of the primary locations to act as a temporary jail, but soon Oxford County officials realized that the need for a formal jail was ever-present. In 1853, the Clerk advertised a contest for the best jailhouse design plans, awarding the first place prize of £20 to Clark and Murray of Hamilton.
In 1845, Victoria Park acted as the County Fairgrounds for the District of Brock and was widely used by the community for various events. Almost 30 years later, in 1872, the Fairgrounds were relocated to an area close to the Thames River while the land was given to the City of Woodstock for the use of a park or outdoor space. It wouldn’t be until May 24, 1896, however, when the city named Victoria Park in honour of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee (a celebration of sixty years on the throne).
The Woodstock Armouries were built after the Boer War in 1904 by Nagle and Mills of Ingersoll and officially opened on January 23, 1908. Nearly five hundred guests attended the inaugural ball which was filled with festivities and overall, a happy cheer. From its inception, the Armouries then became a central social hub for the community, especially as a sporting center due to the large gymnasium floor, bowling alley, and sporting facilities constructed into the building. And now, for the first time in the Oxford Rifles history, they had a permanent residence in which to train and store their weapons.
There have been four different registry offices in Woodstock since Oxford County was officially designated as a district. Three of them have actually been located in Court House Square, while the first one was located in Ingersoll. However, many County residents found that the registry office in Ingersoll was inconvenient and began petitioning the House of Assembly to establish a registry office in Woodstock.
In 1847, both due to community determination and an already made plan to establish a registry office on Courthouse Square, the first registry office was opened on the corner of Hunter and Light Street within Courthouse grounds. But due to increasing needs from the county, by 1876 the County Council were given keys to a new registry office on the corner of Hunter and Graham Street. This is the building standing before you, which has now become the Provincial Offences Administrative Building.
One of the main concerns in the construction of this registry office was ensuring it was fireproof, so all the important information collected wouldn’t be easily lost. In order to do this, the builders built the walls two feet thick and actually put sand in the ceiling and roof! But why the sand? At the time, the sand would act as a fire extinguisher by falling out of the roof once the fire either burned through or the walls collapsed. Luckily, they never had to test this out and the sand ultimately became obselete once updated fire prevention protocols were installed.
This building was used until 1952 when another registry building was constructed at 75 Graham Street. Now, the current registry office is located in the former post office building on Peel Street.
Lawn Bowling
In order to build the third registry office on Courthouse Square property, the county had to displace the Woodstock Lawn Bowling Club. The club’s playing fields were located on the square and used a portion of the grounds on Graham Street as their greens. They continued to use this space, at no cost, until the 1950s when the new registry office was built. Head over to the courthouse section if you want to read more about the Woodstock Lawn Bowling Club and their adventures in the city .
The Woodstock Library was built in the years after 1905 before officially opening in 1909 as a Carnegie Library. But despite this official opening, the history of the library can be traced back to February 12, 1835, when the Reading Society was formed. This formation was predated by eight months, the official naming of the area as Woodstock, and opened as a society that allowed the borrowing of one book at a time.
The Ready Society’s by-laws stated that no novel, romance, or books of religious or moral controversy would be admitted, and it wouldn’t be until two years later that the first novels, those of Walter Scott, were allowed into the collection. Among the original volumes, the Reading Society had been those of Milton’s “Paradise Lost,” Bunyon’s “The Pilgrims Progress,” and Homer’s “The Illiad” and “The Odyssey.”
The Society’s annual fees started at $2 for residents, $1 quarterly for non-residents, and implemented daily fines of sixpence if books were not returned on time. As you may have noted, this indicates that both the British Sterling and Canadian dollars were in use. Then in 1836, the 21 members of the Society voted to change the name of the Reading Society to the Woodstock Subscription Library, reflecting on the community’s new name. In 1852, they later added to their name to become the Woodstock Subscription Library and Mechanics Institute, which was a merger of the two organizations.
Interestingly, the Mechanics Institute was an educational program started by Charles Dickens to help the working class to gain better access to libraries and to increase their knowledge. While many were skeptical of Dickens motive behind this, specifically that it was a way to promote and sell more of his books, the Mechanics Institute nevertheless was partially funded by the British Government through 50 pounds, and the help was widely received with gratefulness by many organizations in the colonies, including Woodstock.
In 1901, when Woodstock was officially designated as a city, an article in the inaugural edition of the Woodstock Sentinel-Review declared that the Woodstock Library could justly claim to be the oldest in the province. Eight years later, the city was able to take advantage of the Carnegie funds to finally build a library that would house the oldest library in the province. That building is what you now see standing before you, and has helped provide Woodstock residents and out-of-towners with books, novels, and more to help further the knowledge of the community. In 1976, it was officially designated by the City of Woodstock as a historic building! How cool is that?!
The Woodstock Public Library was built by architects Chadwick and Beckett of Toronto in a classical revival style, whose roots are in Ancient Greek and Ancient Roman architecture. Immediately, you probably thought of the temples and lavish buildings made of stone, and with intricate details. And in large part, that is much of what classical revival style is. As you can see, the library and its exterior definitely represent something of a temple. And can you see the capitals at the top of the columns? If you want to take a stab at it, what architectural order do you think they are; Doric, Ionic, or Corinthian?
As well, as you can see from the outside, the Woodstock Library has dichromatic brickwork (uses two or more colours of brick to decorate buildings), some beautifully arched and well-balanced windows, and a dramatic rotunda visible within the main entrance. If possible, we encourage you to take a brief look inside – while making sure to be quiet of course, you don’t want to disturb the patrons – and see the rotunda for yourself.
Chadwick and Beckett of Toronto have completed a multitude of architectural works all throughout Ontario, including residential works, commercial and industrial works, as well as institutional and ecclesiastical works with the Woodstock Public Library falling under the latter. While there is little biographical information on Chadwick, Samuel Gustavus Beckett was born in Toronto in 1869 and eventually received his architectural education at Cornell University at Ithaca, N.Y. He formed a partnership with William Chadwick in 1893, where they worked together to develop “sumptuous and imposing” residences in the fashionable areas of Toronto. A piece of exciting information is that Beckett was also an acknowledged authority on military and cavalry tactics and active in local regimental and battalion units within Toronto. When the First World War started, Beckett was appointed Lieutenant Colonel on July 1, 1915, and was later killed at Carency, France in 1917 during battle.
A Carnegie Library
The Woodstock Library is perhaps one of the most attractive public libraries built on a Carnegie grant. What is a Carnegie grant you might ask? Well, a Carnegie grant was used to build a Carnegie Library on behalf of Scottish-American businessman and philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie. When he started this enterprise, Carnegie libraries were only built in places he had a personal connection to, but eventually, he began to expand his funding to libraries in areas with no real link. The first of these libraries was the Dunfermline Carnegie Library in Scotland, and by the time the last Carnegie Library was erected, approximately 2 500 libraries were built throughout the world. For Carnegie, books and libraries were extremely important to him, and he wanted to give others, especially those of the working class who were not seen as “entitled to books,” a chance to read and learn for themselves.
Transactions, Patrons, & Membership
In the last survey taken, over 13 000 people used the library services in an average month.
In 2007, the Woodstock Public Library had more than 420 000 transactions.
In 1935, membership had reached 3 341, and then in 1984, it had rocketed to 8 100!
Now, membership continues to be free for city residents though those from out of town are required to pay an annual fee of $55.
The current standing courthouse you see before you was built in the late 1880s before officially opening for the very first time in 1892. But don’t be fooled, this extravagant building was not the first one to exist on this property, and was actually built to replace the original courthouse built in 1839.
The first Courthouse was built and served the District of Brock and later the County of Oxford. The original courthouse served as the District’s Judiciary and Administrative Building for over forty years before it was condemned by the Government Inspector and County Architect for its dilapidated state in 1882. It did not have a room large enough for twenty-four men to sit in comfortably (without some of them sitting on a log pile), had inadequate accommodation for the Grand Jury, was liable to collapse at any minute, and the County Architect T.H. Goff even reported that there were poisonous gases in the airways.
Many on the County Council didn’t believe the building of a new courthouse was necessary. It was only by a vote of 17 to 16, in the December Session of 1888, when a special committee was appointed with instructions to advertise for plans and specifications for a new courthouse. With permission to advertise for a new courthouse, the County Council awarded prizes of $250, $150, and $100 for the best plans they received. They received sixteen plans, and from them chose architect R.T. Brookes of Detroit to head the design and construction of the new courthouse. The new building was to be erected immediately in the rear of the original courthouse, with the original courthouse remaining standing until the new one was completed and ready for use. And while the new courthouse was being built, the Council and Clerk were housed in rooms over a drug store that was across from present day Museum Square.
During a Special Council Session, the Councilors passed a resolution to dismiss R.T. Brookes due to faulty wall construction and other serious flaws with the building. New architects, Cuthbertson of Woodstock and Fowler of Toronto were appointed to take over construction. After their own inspections of the building, they ended up deconstructing and rebuilding the greater portion of the new courthouse as they found the walls and materials to be unsatisfactory, unworkmanlike, and of unsafe character.
Cuthbertson and Fowler eventually completed construction of the new courthouse in 1891, though the final cost of the building far exceeded the initial planned budget of $75 000. The total cost came to approximately $155,000, which is worth close to $4.5 million today
On December 6th, 1892, the Council finally met for the first time in the Council Chamber of the new courthouse.
The courthouse, now known as the Oxford County Courthouse, is still used today to fight crime and serve justice and possesses many of its original features from 1892.
The Oxford County Courthouse is a massive sandstone, Romanesque Revival style building built in 1892. The most notable features of this type of architecture are:
· The castle and fortress-like exteriors;
· The heavy, rough stone or brick walls;
· Steeped pitched hip roofs;
· Bold, heavy, half-rounded arches around doorways and frames;
· And towers or projecting bays
Can you point out some of these features on the courthouse?
Photo Credit: Damian Dudek
As well, while you’re looking, see if you can spot the carved monkeys at the peaks and in the decorative column capitals of the building. But you’re probably wondering, why monkeys? Though there is no definite answer – at least that we have discovered anyways – some say the monkeys represent the original symbol of justice, an old builder’s tradition dating back to late medieval times! Others say the monkeys were to spite the County Council because of a payment dispute, and the builders wanted to make a ‘monkey’ out of the courthouse. Either way, they are a unique feature that only adds to the dramatic façade of the building. What do you think the monkeys represent?
In addition to the monkeys, there are also some beautiful chrysanthemum engravings on the building that you will definitely need to get a look at. Though the exact meanings of chrysanthemums differ across the world, in North America they are seen to symbolize longevity, fidelity, joy, and optimism. This is a fitting symbol for the courthouse, whose purpose is to protect the innocent, serve justice to the guilty, and help make our community a little better off than it was before.
Tile mosaic on the landing of the front steps.
Check out the tile mosaic on the landing of the front steps of the main entrance! They were actually only discovered when a member of the cleaning staff spilled chemicals on the front step! And the glass tiles which line the mosaic on either side? They’re not just fancy tiles… they also work to allow light into the chambers below! How neat is that?
The original architect appointed to build the new courthouse was Robert T. Brookes of Detroit. Originally from Ireland, Brookes immigrated to Canada after 1851 where he was one of the first professional architects to live and work in Victoria County, Ontario. He moved to the United States around 1870 where he opened an office in Detroit and he lived and worked there for nearly thirty years. It was at this office when R.T. Brookes submitted his design for the Oxford County Courthouse, working as the head architect until he was eventually dismissed due to the poor quality of workmanship on the foundations.
Cuthbertson and Fowler of Woodstock was a partnership formed in 1886 between Thomas Cuthbertson of Woodstock and Joseph Fowler of Toronto. Cuthbertson, the main force behind the partnership, originally worked as an employee of the Grand Trunk Railway in Brantford, ON where he studied architecture on the side. He entered the office of T.H. Goff (the County Architect of Oxford) in 1883 and eventually bought out the business, forming the partnership with Fowler shortly after.
It was through this partnership that they took over the construction of the Oxford County Courthouse, with Cuthbertson overseeing most of the work as Fowler appears to have chosen to remain in Toronto and pursue his own work. Cuthbertson also contributed to a multitude of the designs of homes and buildings right here in Oxford County! The Town Hall in Embro, the old Woodstock Opera House (which turned into Capital Theatre before being closed in 1990), and the Dundas Methodist Church are just a few of his more notable works!
You should definitely check out the Historic Walking Tours by the Woodstock Museum if interested in learning more about the buildings around you. Odds are, you’ll probably come across a few more homes and buildings designed by Cuthbertson. See if you can spot any similarities between them and the courthouse!
Use this interactive map to locate the spots on the lawn of the Courthouse and view the monuments.
To the east at the front of the courthouse stands a statue dedicated to George Leslie MacKay, a famous Presbyterian missionary who greatly impacted Taiwan with his work. In 1871, MacKay became the first foreign missionary to be commissioned by the Canada Presbyterian Church when he travelled to Taiwan on December 29, 1871. From there his legacy began, and starting with an itinerant dentistry practice for lowland aborigines, he eventually expanded to establish churches, schools, and a hospital rooted in Western practice.
Settling at Tamsui, northern Formosa in 1872, MacKay learned to speak vernacular Taiwanese, and married “Minnie” Tu, a native Taiwanese women. They had three children together, and MacKay was able to connect with the locals in a way most people couldn’t. MacKay followed closely to the “revitalization movement,” a movement rooted in the idea that when the misery of poverty and degradation is mixed with hope for a material and moral salvation, the resulting combination is volatile. As a result, when MacKay began preaching to the Kavalan people of Taiwan, they understood his words and ideas to be very similar to their own struggles of resistance, land loss, poverty and cultural collapse with the invasion of the Chinese in the nineteenth century. And so this connection, which is still seen throughout Taiwan today, was forged.
Mackay was an ardent activist against the Canadian head tax on Chinese immigrants, opened the first hospital in Taiwan as well as the first school for women. He remains a national hero in Taiwan, and Oxford County often has many visitors from Taiwan who wish to follow his story. If you look closely enough at the monument, you can see that within his beard his story is woven and is truly a work of art.
But what you have read barely scratches the surface of the achievements of George Leslie MacKay and the impact he had both on Taiwan and Oxford County. We encourage you to visit the Oxford County Library and the International Bulletin of Missionary
Research if you wish to learn more about MacKay’s detailed history.
While the cannons certainly look dramatic and accentuate the castle-like exterior of the courthouse, their history isn’t perhaps as grand as the other monuments on the lawn. Flanking either side of the front of the courthouse, the cannons (along with many others) were made in England in the early 1840s where they were eventually shipped to Canada to aid in our defense if the Americans ever attacked. However, the cannons were never actually fired in combat, and eventually, they became obsolete. After some discussion, many of the cannons were placed in various Canadian cities, and in 1990, Woodstock came to acquire these two at the front of the courthouse. There were also two more placed at Victoria Park which you may have already seen, or will be going to see as you complete the tour!
At the very front of the building is a statue erected in 1904 of Color Sgt. George Leonard, a Boer War Hero who hailed from Oxford County. However, something you should note is that though the dates on the monument indicate Leonard died on May 11, 1901, after receiving wounds fighting in the Zand River Battle the previous day, this is in fact, wrong. Rather, this battle took place in May 1900, and Leonard was able to survive his wounds for around five weeks before he finally passed away on June 18th, 1900. The reason for this mistake is unknown, but regardless, Color Sgt. George Leonard was a local hero here in the County.
The second name on the monument, Myrtle Davidson, was a member of the Oxford Rifles and was being honoured for his services as Corporal of the South African Constabulary. The monument indicates that Davidson died on February 9, 1902, but due to the controversy surrounding the date of Leonard’s death, we cannot say with certainty this date is true.
Concerning the monument itself, while the bronze cast was made in the United States, the plaster cast from which it was made was the work of Beachville sculptor, F.C. Dunbar. It is exciting to see the local partnerships being made even in the early 1900s!
You can find this monument at the west corner of the courthouse property, framed by some full bushes and shrubbery. But you’re probably wondering, who is this man and why is he deserving of a monument?
Well, Sir Francis Hincks was born in Ireland before coming to Canada in the 1830s. He was elected as a Member of Oxford in 1841 where he also joined the Reformers in the struggle for responsible government. From 1851 to 1854, he briefly led the government of the Province of Canada when two years later he served as Governor of Barbados and British Guiana from 1856-1869. He eventually returned to Canada, serving as the Finance Minister under the MacDonald government when in 1873, he returned to business life in Montreal where he subsequently passed away.
As the first Member of Parliament for North Oxford, the Historic Sites and Monuments Act designated the monument honouring him in Woodstock, and Hincks Street in Woodstock is also named after him. If you want to learn more about Hincks and his contributions, check out the Oxford County Archives’ Blog and their piece about him!
On December 6th, 2007 – the National Day of Remembrance and Action on Violence Against Women – the Oxford Regional Labour Council erected a beautiful memorial at the northwest corner of the property in commemoration of the murder of 14 young women at Polytechnique Montreal on December 6th, 1989. Standing right before the back entrance to the courthouse, this monument serves as a reminder to workers and visitors alike to fight against injustice and remember their commitment to end violence against women not just within our community, but across all nations. If you want more information, please visit Women and Gender Equality Canada .
Did you know that part of the front lawn of the courthouse was once used as a bowling green by the Woodstock Lawn Bowling Club? Originally established in 1894 as the Woodstock Lawn Bowling and Tennis Club with James Canfield as their first President, they were able to obtain approval from the County Council to use a portion of the grounds on Graham and Hunter Street as their greens (the roads intersecting at the corner where the Woodstock Library is located).
Though the club stopped playing tennis in 1920, they remained resilient lawn bowlers and continued to use the space, at no cost, with access to lockers in the basement of the courthouse! However, in the 1950s, the Woodstock Bowling club had to find another location to play as the land would be used to build the new registry office. In 1951, they moved to land on the southwest corner of Southside Park that the Woodstock Parks Board offered to them. The club still remains strong today, and if driving by you can still see lawn bowlers rolling bowls, getting close to the jack, and striking their opponent’s bowls to gain an advantage.
Don’t be fooled, lawn bowling is a lot tougher than it looks! If you want to try your hand at it, check out the Woodstock Lawn Bowling Club for more details!
Famous Trial: Reginald Birchall
Over the years, there have been many trials and cases held at the Oxford County courthouse, some more notable than others. One, in particular, that of Reginald Birchall, is perhaps one of the most major murder trials to ever occur at the courthouse in the eighteenth century. His trial attracted international attention due to its sensational nature, as Birchall was not just a murderer, but a notorious gambler and scammer!
A year before Birchall murdered fellow Englishman F.C. Benwell, Birchall and his wife arrived in Woodstock posing as Lord and Lady Somerset, piling up a number of bills which they left unpaid. They disappeared, but not soon after authorities found the body of Benwell and asked the public to help identify him. Birchall himself came forward to identify the body, but with witness accounts placing the two men together the day of the murder, it was soon believed that Birchall shot Benwell in order to cover up a fraud scheme.
He went to trial, but since the courthouse was not yet completed, the trial was actually held in the Woodstock Town Hall. And despite Birchall’s admittance to fraud, he maintained his innocence in the case of murder though he was eventually found guilty. At the age of 24, Reginald Birchall was hanged on November 14, 1890 and his body was buried within the gaol yard. His body remains there today, though the exact location is not marked. So when you head over to the gaol, be sure not to disturb the ghost of Reginald Birchall, especially as you learn more about him and the other inmates of the gaol.
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Central Public School was built between the years 1878 and 1880 after William Carlyle, the Inspector of Public Schools, reported that the Woodstock school system was in deplorable condition. During his inspection, there were some classes which held up to 87 students, with only one teacher available for such a large class! As a result, in 1878, a space for a new school had been chosen in Court House Square and was bought from the clergy reserves. Mr. Sheard of Toronto won the one hundred dollar prize for the best design and became the Chief Architect and Inspector of Construction of the project.
The original building was made of white brick, stood two stories tall, and housed eight classrooms, half on the second floor and half on the first floor. It also housed a library and domestic science class while the basement, though only made of packed dirt, nevertheless served as a spot for playrooms. There was also an ornate bell tower built above the front entrance and though it was eventually removed after an addition was made, you can still see at the top of the entrance where it used to hang.
The school officially opened in the September of 1880 with 24 students enrolled. Of interest to note is that the school actually opened as a “Model School,” meaning it was a school that taught not just students, but teachers as well! And it would remain a Model School until 1907, helping many teachers further their skills as educators for others.
In 1883, they expanded the property to fill all the land between Light and Graham Street, hoping to reduce overcrowding. Then in 1912, they installed cement floors, drinking fountains and indoor washrooms over the course of the summer. And after the first year of operations with these new facilities, school administrators decided that a fence should be erected, within the school, between the girls and boys water closets. Today, this seems laughable, but during the early 20th century, this was seen as a real necessity.
Yet despite the expansion in 1883, the school still found themselves with overcrowding issues in 1920 and had to rent two rooms in the basement of a nearby church. This solution was only used for 3 years however, as the school expanded their property once again in 1923, this time to the south of the property. They took down the bell tower in order to better blend the new additions with the original building, and the school now housed grades five, six, seven, and eight as well as holding the Commercial Department for Woodstock Collegiate Institute High School. And despite originally being built to house younger grades, all but two rooms on the second floor of Central Public School were used by W.C.I high school students.
Eventually, the school lost its grade five and six classes in 1937 as additions had been made to other schools in the area. In 1940, they also lost their W.C.I high school students on the second floor as the Woodstock Collegiate Institute was finally built. Now, the only classes that remained were the grades seven and eight as well as the auxiliary classes. It wouldn’t be until 1968 when grade six returned to the school.
In 1945, rotary classes were set up for art, library, science, shop and home economics which gave students the chance to experience other sets of teaching styles as they visited more than their homeroom teacher each day of school. Then, four years later, the final addition of the gymtorium, kitchen, shop, and lower addition to the staff room began which were not completed until 1951. In 1952, lockers were added and student council was formed – known as a “perfect” at the time – with the colours and crest of the school officially being selected. The same colours and crest selected in 1952 are the same ones they use today.
The 1942 Christmas Day Fire
On Christmas Day of 1942, a fire broke out near the boiler room of Central Public School that wasn’t detected for several hours. According to Fire Chief Bryce, the fire was thought to have burnt at least two hours before their alarm rang, causing extensive damage to the building. The firefighters fought the fire from around 9:30 that morning to noon when they finally managed to control the fire. Two firefighters remained with a hose until 6:00 pm, but after they left the caretaker for the school, Harry Showers, remained to spend the night in case a fire broke out again. The next morning, he called the fire department when the rubble started smoldering again which they managed to put out without incident.
When it was deemed safe, the fire chief, caretaker and inspector inspected the ruins and found that the asphalt steps leading to the south entrance building had completely melted, five classrooms above the boiler room had received immense damage, and several other classrooms were extensively damaged due to the extreme heat and smoke of the fire. The wood throughout the entire building had been burned, and many of the wood partitions had to be chopped open to get to the fire. And on top of building damages, a bird collection worth $2 000 had also been lost to the fire!
Yet despite the extensive damage, students and teachers returned to the building sixteen days after the fire to resume school. They attended in shifts, so half the school came in the morning while the other half came in the afternoon. The repairs that took place didn’t finish until May of the following year, and all the while students and teachers had to work with the constant hammering and pounding from the construction. You can only wonder how much they really got done with all of that noise!
Before the County Gaol was constructed, there were various locations throughout the community that was used to house prisoners. The tower of Old St. Paul’s church became one of the primary locations to act as a temporary jail, but soon Oxford County officials realized that the need for a formal jail was ever-present. In 1853, the Clerk advertised a contest for the best jailhouse design plans, awarding the first place prize of £20 to Clark and Murray of Hamilton.
The Gaol was then officially built and opened in 1854, and was actually the fifth jail in the province to be constructed! However, before the House of Refuge was built, the gaol was also used as a temporary place of shelter for the destitute, which only increased as the weather got colder and harsher in the winter. Often, many of the destitute would refuse to leave because their living conditions within the gaol were significantly better than what they experienced outside the gaol.
The Gaol was operated by the County, who remained the primary administrators until 1968 when the Province of Ontario took over its administration. By 1977 however, the province closed the jail and transferred all of its prisoners to the Elgin-Middlesex Detention Centre, believing that a modern, central location would be best for the overall well-being of the prisoners.
Yet after the jail closed, there were concerns in the community about the future of the gaol which led to its preservation. The Gaol was renovated into offices for the Oxford County Board of Health, and though the interior and some components of the exterior were altered, much of the building remains the same as it once was. Can you believe that the total cost of this renovation was just under $2.5 million?! Now, as you have probably seen from the signs gracing the front lawns of the property, the gaol now houses the Woodstock location of Southwestern Public Health.
The jail, built by architects Clark and Murray of Hamilton, was built in the Italianate Romanesque style and includes a number of Tuscan Gothic details. This type of design was extremely popular in the mid-1800s and as you can see, the design helps project a fortress-like appearance to the building. While the original design has been slightly altered due to renovations, it is still evident that the jail was constructed in a cross or cruciform plan which was typical of the Romanesque period.
Another evident feature seen on the jail that was characteristic of the Romanesque style is the noticeable bands of small arches, known as Lombard bands. These bands encircle much of the exterior of the building and if you look closely, you can see them most prominently in the octagonal tower where the windows are set within the arches. The gaol is now regarded as an architecturally important building in Canada, recognized by the National Inventory of Historic Buildings.
Now here comes the fun part, if you’re at the front of the jail, look closely at the entrance, specifically near the top right. Have you found it yet?! That mask hanging in that corner is actually a death mask taken of the first public ‘hangee’ here at the jail, Thomas Cook. After he was executed, his death mask was made and was hung to discourage others from criminal activities. Now, there’s more to the story but since we’re supposed to be talking about architecture, we’ll leave it for later. But, if you want to learn more now, jump to our Notable Hangees section to find out why Thomas Cook was executed.
The Architects
Clark and Murray of Hamilton were two talented architects and designers who designed and constructed multiple buildings throughout Hamilton, Guelph, Woodstock, and a few other places. While Hutchison Clark was born in England and immigrated to Upper Canada in 1833, David Murray was born in Scotland and immigrated to Canada in 1851, where he settled in Hamilton. Murray originally began working as an apprentice to Clark, before the two formed a partnership and took on a number of projects
Interestingly, their construction of the Oxford County Gaol is one of their most notable works in which they combined Norman and Romanesque battlements with an octagonal tower. Yet aside from working on the gaol in Woodstock, they also took part in renovating and improving the original courthouse in 1860, while Murray, on another partnership, also constructed a Baptist church in the city.
Gaol Governor or “Gaoler”
The Gaoler was in charge, at all times, of the prisoners and was to ensure their safety and general care. He was required to inspect at least once a week every room so the prisoner could not escape as well as inspecting the prisoner himself and their bed to ensure they had no access to weapons or tools. He was also responsible for overseeing that all the food was fresh, properly cooked, decently served and followed the guidelines of the Dietary Rules and Regulations. Among other things, the Gaoler also reported any illness or injury among the prisoners to the Gaol Surgeon.
John Cameron was one of the most noteworthy Gaolers to have worked the gaol, especially because of the infamous inmate, Reginald Birchall. Due to his powers of discipline, and the basic fact that he was a kind and considerate man at heart, many of the prisoners and staff liked him including Birchall. Rather humourously, while Cameron was the Gaoler, the Oxford County Gaol was most often referred to as “Castle Cameron.”
The Turnkey or “Keeper of the Keys”
The Turnkey was responsible for guarding the prisoners, while under the direction of the Gaoler. He was to oversee prisoners at work, ensure any punishment awarded was effectively carried out, and often found himself guarding the cells of the most dangerous criminals in order to successfully watch the prisoners.
The Matron
The Matron was often the wife of the Gaoler or Turnkey and was responsible for the care and superintendence of the female department of the gaol. While the Gaoler searched all male prisoners upon admittance, the Matron would search all the female prisoners upon admittance and would make sure no male prisoners could enter the female department or came in contact with a female prisoner while she worked. She would notify the Gaol Surgeon of any illness or injury of the female prisoners while also ensuring punishment was awarded to the female inmates if required.
Gaol Surgeon:
The Gaol Surgeon was to maintain the general health of all the prisoners. They were required to inspect the premises and holding cells for proper ventilation, drainage, warming and water-supply every three months, as well as ensuring proper cleanliness, the quality of food, good clothing, bedding and much more along the same lines. Some of the most common illnesses the gaol Surgeon would treat the inmates for were infectious diseases such as bilious fever, typhoid and even syphilis as despite regular inspections, conditions in the gaol were not always ideal.
Among other things, the Gaol Surgeon would also closely monitor the mental state of “lunatics,” people with mental health concerns, and would examine any prisoner before corporal punishment would be inflicted. Yet aside from the inmates, the Gaol Surgeon was also responsible to treat the resident officers and staff of the jail, extending to their family members as well.
Residence for the Administration:
The Gaoler, Turnkey and Matron were expected to live at the gaol and therefore residence was provided. The Gaoler’s house was attached to the back of the gaol wall facing the Courthouse with a door leading from his house directly into the jail yard. If you walk around to the back, you can get a closer look and will notice that the building now houses the Oxford County Archives. Later however, when John B. Calder was appointed the Gaoler from 1955-1960, he moved with his wife to the house on Buller Street as his wife preferred to live there.
The Turnkey originally had a two room apartment on the second floor of the gaol, but in 1897, the Turnkey and his wife got permission to build a house on the property beside the jail, due in large part to the persistence of his wife. The house was eventually demolished in the 1960s when the Oxford County Library was built as a centennial project.
Upon admittance to the gaol, inmates were processed, bathed and given uniform prison garb. For male prisoners, this consisted of a tunic, trousers, a cap, a pair of brogans (heavy, ankle-high shoes), and underclothing as the seasons would require. Female prisoners would receive an over-dress and under-skirt, a pair of shoes and also underclothing depending on the seasons. The colour of the uniforms would be determined by the inspector who prescribed them.
Also upon admittance, all male prisoners were required to have their hair cut due to health and cleanliness, but female prisoners could not have their hair cut unless it was with their consent, or by order of the Gaol Surgeon on the grounds of health concerns.
Once done the inspection and admittance process, each prisoner would find themselves with their own cell that included a bedstead, a night pail (bed pan) and a variety of toiletry items. This however, was only the ideal situation. In more realistic situations, due to overcrowding this was far from the case. There never seemed to be enough room for each prisoner to have their own cell (with a few exceptions of course), and the gaol often found itself lacking in the ability to consistently provide toiletry items.
Before indoor plumbing, prisoners were expected to use the privies within the gaol yard whenever possible, rather than the water closets inside the building. In addition to that, the inmates were also expected to keep their cell clean and orderly, while inmates who were sentenced to hard labour were required to clean the corridors and maintain the jail yards as well. In many cases, while under the supervision of the Turnkey and Matron, you could also find the prisoners doing their own cooking and washing of clothes and bedding.
Throughout the existence of the gaol, a total of five hangings occurred, all of which were for murder. While the first hanging (that of Thomas Cook) was conducted in public, as was custom at the time, the remaining four executions were performed out of the public eye and within the facility instead due to the issues surrounding the first hanging.
Thomas Cook
A 45-year-old blind labourer from Innerkip, Thomas Cook was charged with the murder of his wife on July 22, 1862. He was publicly executed five months later on December 16, 1862, and was the first hanging to occur within Oxford County. However, much to the horror of the crowd, when Thomas Cook was hung from the gallows, his head was accidentally decapitated and ended up rolling through the crowd. It was this event that led to the formation of the desk mask which is seen at the front entrance of the gaol.
Reginald Birchall
Birchall was only 24 when he was hanged on November 14, 1890, for the murder of fellow Englishman, R.C. Benwell. Birchall and his wife had actually arrived in Woodstock a year before the murder, posing as Lord and Lady Somerset. They managed to rack up quite a few bills that they left unpaid as they soon disappeared. Not only would Birchall become a murderer, but he was also a notorious gambler and actor.
Benwell’s body was discovered in the Blenheim Swamp with two bullet wounds to the back of the head with his clothing skewed to remove any identifying markers. Detective John Wilson Murray – who was also the inspiration for Detective Murdoch from the TV show Murdoch Mysteries – of the Attorney General’s Office picked up the case and had the body photographed in order to identify the subject. The image was placed in newspapers and immediately witnesses began coming forward to not only identify the body but who also claimed that they saw Benwell and Birchall together the day of the murder. Birchall himself even came forward to identify the body!
However, it was soon believed that Birchall shot Benwell in order to preserve a fraud scheme he had organized that involved the “Farm Pupil Industry.” Birchall was taken to trial, right here at the Oxford County Courthouse, and found guilty for the murder of F.C. Benwell despite pleading innocence. Following the execution, Birchall was buried within the gaol yard, though his body was eventually moved to accommodate a new building. Though it remains within the jail yard, the exact location of his body is not known.
Norman Garfield
Norman Garfield was sentenced to execution for the murder of Ben Johnson during an attempted robbery with his brother at Johnson’s candy store, once located right here on Dundas Street. While his brother was only sentenced to 20 years for manslaughter, Norman was executed on June 2, 1921, due to the fact that he was the one who shot the gun.
But before his execution date came, Garfield managed to escape the jail wearing civilian clothes, hoping to eventually reach the American border. However, the car he stole to drive ran out of gas and Garfield had no money left to buy more. He was picked up in Georgetown by authorities after two women at the train station recognized him. While the Gaol administration remained puzzled as to how he escaped, his execution date remained the same.
In a last-ditch effort, Garfield even swallowed glass a few hours before his execution hoping to avoid his fate. However, doctors were called in to save his life and the execution went as planned.
Elizabeth “Lizzy” Tilford
Elizabeth Tilford was the only woman to be hanged in Oxford County, and one of only eleven to be executed in Canada. She was convicted of poisoning her third husband, Tyrell Tilford.
Originally born in England, Tilford immigrated to Canada where she eventually settled in Oxford County. But upon marrying Tyrell, Tilford slowly began poisoning her husband with a tasteless, odorless substance known as salts of lemon. But when this method proved to be too slow for her, Tilford ordered arsenic from the local apothecary which she used to finally kill Tyrell.
During the trial, Tilford maintained her innocence and blamed Tyrell’s family who had never approved of her from the start. Witness statements confirmed that Tilford was the one who bought the arsenic from Keith’s Drug Store in Woodstock, and police had learned that two days before Tyrell's death, she had contacted the Insurance Company to check on the value of his life insurance policy.
Her trial lasted ten days and the Jury found Elizabeth Tilford guilty of poisoning her husband and was sent to gallows. She hung on December 17, 1935, and after her execution, some remaining arsenic was found wrapped in an oilcloth in a jar of mustard pickles in her cellar.
Velibor Rajic
Velibor arrived in Canada in 1948 as a Yugoslavian immigrant following a stay in a displaced person’s camp in Italy. He arrived in Woodstock a year later, working various jobs to earn a living. He met and became friends with Florence and Ernest Boyd and eventually moved into their home on Perry Street as a tenant.
But following an afternoon of drinking on June 10, 1954, Velibor and Florence began fighting before Velibor eventually stabbed her to death. The trial lasted four days and Rajic’s defense attorneys tried to bring forth evidence that he suffered from a mental lapse and could not be held accountable. Rajic himself even took to the stand, claiming he would never have killed Florence “for a million dollars” and could not recall stabbing her. Yet despite this plea, Rajic was found guilty and sentenced to hang on November 16, 1954. He was the last person to be executed at the Oxford county Gaol.
Please visit the Oxford County Archives for more extensive history on the Oxford County Gaol.
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In 1845, Victoria Park acted as the County Fairgrounds for the District of Brock and was widely used by the community for various events. Almost 30 years later, in 1872, the Fairgrounds were relocated to an area close to the Thames River while the land was given to the City of Woodstock for the use of a park or outdoor space. It wouldn’t be until May 24, 1896 however, when the city named Victoria Park in honour of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee (a celebration of sixty years on the throne).
During the glory days of the park, there was actually a bandshell where bands would play to entertain park goers on summer days. While the bandshell originally stood to the right of the Cenotaph you see today, it was later moved to left, standing before the entrance to the Oxford County Jail.
For many years, the park served as a hub for the community and is still by many of the residents today. Not only has it been used as a sports field for W.C.I students, but it was also once frequently used as the primary location for military marches and reviews conducted every spring. Now, one of the major events which occurs in the park is “Art in Victoria Park,” an annual festival that celebrates the music, art and culture of Canada. It’s only fitting that the park, once a central hub of Woodstock, is used for this fantastic event today.
Cenotaph
The Woodstock Cenotaph stands on the southeast of the property, enclosed in a black iron fence. It was originally erected in 1925 to commemorate the soldiers who had perished in the Great War, though it now includes memorials for World War II soldiers and those of later wars. ON April 11th, 2015, a memorial for soldiers who perished in Afghanistan was placed next to the Cenotaph.
The Woodstock Cenotaph stands on the southeast of the property, enclosed in a black iron fence. It was originally erected in 1925 to commemorate the soldiers who had perished in the Great War, though it now includes memorials for World War II soldiers and those of later wars. ON April 11th, 2015, a memorial for soldiers who perished in Afghanistan was placed next to the Cenotaph.
We encourage you to visit the Cenotaph Story Map , created by the Oxford County Archives if interested in the other memorials, monuments, and Cenotaphs placed throughout the rest of the County.
Cannons
If you have already visited the Oxford County Courthouse, you would already know about the two cannons placed in the northwest corner of the park. They are two of four cannons that were gifted to the City of Woodstock in 1900, while the other two sit outside the courthouse. They were originally made in England in the 1840s and shipped to Canada to aid in our defense in case the Americans decided to invade. However, the cannons were never fired in combat and eventually deemed obsolete and decommissioned. They were then placed throughout various Canadian cities, which is how the City of Woodstock came to obtain them.
The Woodstock Armouries were built after the Boer War in 1904 by Nagle and Mills of Ingersoll and officially opened on January 23, 1908. Nearly five hundred guests attended the inaugural ball which was filled with festivities and overall, a happy cheer. From its inception, the Armouries then became a central social hub for the community, especially as a sporting center due to the large gymnasium floor, bowling alley and sporting facilities constructed into the building. And now, for the first time in the Oxford Rifles history, they had a permanent residence in which to train and store their weapons.
The construction of the Armouries represented one of the most visible signs of reforms being implemented by the Canadian militia as they attempted to increase recruitment and awareness of their role in the nation. However, the increased recruitment the militia wished to see never really happened, especially as the Armouries came to represent more than just a military building.
All year round, various competitions would be held for trophies presented by officers and citizens interested in the local militia unit. The Oxford Rifles themselves had teams and units which would compete not just in these local contests, but outside ones as well. And don’t think they ever shirked their own military duties, because they possessed the same eagerness in their military training just as they did for their sporting efforts. Large and regular turnouts always occurred at their parades, and the local militia were ever-present enforcers of the military and its duties to protecting not just the community, but the nation as well.
Photo Courtesy of Heritage Woodstock, taken by Eleanor Gardhouse.
In 1971 however, the National Defense declared the building to be surplus and the Armouries were later transformed into offices for the Oxford County Board of Education. Now, the building possesses offices from BDO Debt Solutions, but nevertheless still maintains its grandiose exterior which catches the eye of any passerby.
The Armouries give off an appearance of heavy fortification due to the two crenellated towers at the front entrance and the use of heavy stone and brick. However, this supposed appearance of an impenetrable armoury is largely just for show, as the building contains multiple ‘luxuries’ within, including a bowling alley and ballroom. If you take a look at the very top of the building, you can see an engraving that has the date the Armouries were officially built.
Nagle and Mills of Ingersoll were the head architects for the Armouries, who had teamed up together to complete a number of different contracts. Both were locals to Oxford County, who also designed and built many other buildings in the area. One of their more notable works was that of a new Carnegie library in Ingersoll which was a sophisticated, Edwardian composition. Wrapped on three sides with tall, wide windows, the façade was also trimmed with Corinthian Stone, a type of artificial stone manufactured in Guelph.
The Carnegie library was almost demolished due to the extensive dilapidated state it was in, but was purchased in 2018 and renovated into what is now Carnegie Hall. It is now a popular venue for weddings, concerts, anniversaries and the like, and if ever in Ingersoll, take a drive by to see the building up close and personal. You’ll probably find it hard to believe that the same architects who built the Carnegie Library, also built the Armouries… they’re two completely different styles!
The Armouries were the headquarters for the 22nd Regiment, Oxford Rifles, which was one of the most popular institutions in the City of Woodstock during the first half of the twentieth century. The four companies of the Oxford Rifles were constantly at full strength from before the First World War to shortly after the Second World War, and in addition to their eagerness for military training, they were also avid competitors in the sporting events which took place in the city. But when they were called to battle, the Oxford Rifles did not hesitate to put their lives on the line.
When the Second Boer War began in 1899, Britain’s colonies were called upon to help her in the fight. Ten men from the Oxford Rifles in Oxford County answered the call and set sail with the 1st Canadian Contingent on October 30, 1899. Two men from the county were killed overseas, and the monument at the very front of the courthouse is dedicated to their heroism and sacrifice. The bust is that of Colour-Sergeant George W. Leonard who died of wounds sustained while crossing the Zand River on June 18th, 1900. The second man to be honoured was that of Corporal Myrtle Davidson who died of typhoid fever on February 2, 1902, while serving with the South African Constabulary. To read more about the monument, check out the Oxford County Courthouse section under “Monuments.”
On August 4, 1914, when Great Britain declared war on Germany, the Oxford Rifles once again answered the call for aid. The response was instantaneous when Woodstock’s Lieutenant Colonel McMullen issued a call to officers, N.C.Os and other ranks of the Regiment to report for duty. And on the following night the Oxford Rifles paraded the streets of Woodstock with vast and immense crowds cheering their support for their local men.
When August 22nd rolled around, seventy men, headed by Lieutenant Cecil James left Woodstock to join the first Canadian contingent at the Valcartier Camp in Quebec. They formed two platoons, also known as the “A” Company of the First Battalion under the command of Lieutenant Colonel D.M. Sutherland. From there, they headed on to Europe where the Oxford County men of the 1st Battalion were among the first soldiers of the 1st Canadian Division to go into the trenches in France.
They distinguished themselves at the Battle of Langemarck as Lieut. James and his fellow Oxonians were in the first platoon to advance under German fire in this bitter, two-day stretch of battle. As part of the First Battle of Ypres, the beginning battle which would characterize the rest of the war for its trench warfare, these men were also, unfortunately, some of the first to undergo the experience of having chlorine gas used as a weapon against them.
At the start of the Second World War, the Oxford Rifles were mobilized but did not leave for the United Kingdom until January 1945. The Oxford Rifles remained their own regiment until 1954 where they were amalgamated with the Canadian Fusiliers (London) before officially being decommissioned on March 8th, 1970 as a militia unit. But regardless of their decommissioning, the Oxford Rifles remained, and still largely do, a prominent part of Oxford County history. There is much more to the legacy of the Oxford Rifles, and we recommend visiting the Oxford County Archives and the Woodstock Museum to do your own research!
If facing the front of the building, there is a monument to you right where a stone cairn, made with stones from the beaches of Dieppe, stands. The monument was erected to honour the men who fought in the Battle of Dieppe in World War II and recounts a brief history of the Oxford Rifles.