The Okefenokee Swamp
A National Treasure
Like No Other Place on Earth
Saw palmetto in Okefenokee NWR. Photo © Jay Blanton
Deep in the heart of southern Georgia lies one of the most outstanding examples of an ecologically intact swamp in North America: the Okefenokee swamp. At 438,000-acres, the Okefenokee is North America’s largest blackwater wetland, sheltering a vast mosaic of pine islands, cypress forests and blackwater channels. Undisturbed by encroachment of agriculture or other development, the Okefenokee remains one of the world's healthiest large-scale freshwater ecosystems, sheltering diverse habitats and an incredible array of wildlife.
Whereas other large wetland ecosystems have suffered intense human modifications, the Okefenokee retains its natural hydrology, storing immense volumes of water through both flood and drought years and supporting dependable, quality habitats. Because the Okefenokee serves as the headwaters to two major rivers, the Suwannee and St. Marys, its health and vitality are essential to supplying downstream ecosystems with clean freshwater. In addition to providing refuge to wildlife, the swamp provides escape to hundreds of thousands of people who boat, bird, fish and hunt in its wild lands. It is therefore essential that we continue to ensure Okefenokee's healthy functioning for future generations of humans and wildlife.
Where Wildlife Come First
"The vision for Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge is to protect and enhance wildlife and its habitat, ensure integrity of the ecological system, and embrace the granduer, mystery, and cultural heritage that lead to an enrichment of the human spirit.” -USFWS
Black bear in the Okefenokee NWR. Photo: fStop Foundation
In 1937 Okefenokee joined the National Wildlife Refuge System of lands where wildlife come first. The largest refuge in the eastern United States, Okefenokee is also one of the crown jewels of the refuge system, having been designated as a National Natural Landmark, a Wetland of International Importance (RAMSAR) and listed as a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Situated in the heart of the Southeast, North America’s cradle of biodiversity, Okefenokee is renowned for its array of flora and fauna. The swamp harbors more than 600 species of plants, 40 mammals, 50 reptiles and 60 amphibians. More than 200 species of birds have been identified within the swamp as it plays a critical role in the migration of many species. Beneath the surface of its tea-colored water, 34 different fish can be found. Federally protected species including the red-cockaded woodpecker, indigo snake, and wood stork call the swamp home, and downstream on the St. Marys and Suwannee River, the swamp supports federally protected shortnose, Atlantic sturgeon and gulf sturgeon.
Maps based on endemic species ( Jenkins et al. 2015 ). Data from IUCN and BirdLife International.
Turtle and alligator. Photo: © Riley Bergkamp
Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge is situated on the border of Georgia and Florida and forms the headwaters of two of the Southeast’s healthiest river systems.
The St. Marys: A River Under Threat
The St. Marys is a blackwater river that has been designated by the Southern Environmental Law Center as one of Georgia’s “endangered places” and as an Endangered River 2020 by American Rivers.
St. Marys River. Photo: © Ashley Alexander
It surfaces as a tiny stream known as “River Styx” and flows from the western edge of Trail Ridge (the primordial remnants of a barrier island system) and into the southeastern Okefenokee Swamp. From there it travels 125 river-miles before delivering its unique brew into the Atlantic near St. Marys, GA and Fernandina Beach, FL – a mere 50 miles from its birthplace. The St. Marys is a high-quality blackwater river with a naturally low pH level. The dark “tea-hue” of the water is a result of decaying vegetation that produces tannin; a naturally occurring, water-soluble organic compound.
The Suwannee River: A Natural Treasure
Also borne of the Okefenokee Swamp is the Suwannee, the fabled blackwater river that flows more than 240 miles from South Georgia through North Florida and into the Gulf of Mexico. Made famous in song by Stephen Foster, the Suwannee, like the swamp where it originates, is a regional, natural treasure. In recognition of its high water quality and the significance of its natural communities, the State of Florida has designated it an Outstanding Florida Water.
Paddlers in Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. Photo: © Timothy J
The Suwannee River Wilderness Trail, a boating path stretching from the swamp's system of canoe trails to the Gulf of Mexico, makes the river rich in outdoor recreation opportunities, offering world-class paddling, camping and wilderness experiences. Along its path, the Suwannee receives the flow of some 300 clear, cold springs, one of the largest concentrations of freshwater springs in the country. This unique blend of blackwater and blue holes springs supports a wide array of wildlife including federally protected species like the gulf sturgeon, West Indian manatee and freshwater mussels like the Suwannee moccasinshell and oval pigtoe.
Paddlers on the Suwannee. Photo: © Joe Cook
Wild Encounters!
Okefenokee is a great place to find adventure: On average, 600,000 visitors come to explore the swamp each year. This is equivalent to, and in some cases even more than, the annual visits to some iconic national parks like Big Bend and the Petrified Forest! This kind of traffic to the refuge supports local economies and fosters an appreciation of Okefenokee’s unique ecosystem. One of two National Water Trails in Georgia, the 120-mile-long Okefenokee Wilderness Canoe Trail offers a chance to recreate and connect with alligators, black bears and sandhill cranes amidst the swamp’s primeval landscape.
Canoe and motorboat trails throughout the refuge offer a chance to recreate and connect with this amazing natural landscape. The refuge's trail system passes through a unique and diverse set of habitats and creates many wildlife viewing opportunities.
Paddling trail shelter platform. Photo: © Michael Lusk
Floating platforms and dry-land camps throughout the refuge provide opportunities for overnight experiences beneath the Okefenokee’s dark, starry skies. Adventure is waiting...
Camping platform in Okefenokee NWR at night. Photo: © Jay Blanton
Diverse habitats create the swamp’s incredible array of plants and animals.
Those habitats are visually depicted here.
Peat Beds
The Okefenokee Swamp is a vast bog inside a huge, saucer-shaped depression that was part of the ocean floor 7000 years ago. The entire swamp is covered with peat, an organic material formed by the decomposition of plants in water. This peat supports a variety of life, from countless invertebrate species and amphibians such as the slimy salamander all the way up to large mammals like black bears.
In the Okefenokee Swamp, it takes about 50 years for one inch of peat to form at the base of the swamp. The peat ranges in depth from thin layers at the edges of the swamp and islands to more than 15 feet in places. At its deepest, this peat can provide information on global changes to the environment over the past 5,000 years or more. Unstable peat masses will tremble, giving the Okefenokee its name "Land of the Trembling Earth."
Photo: Black bear (USFWS)
Cypress Forests and Pine Flatwoods
The primary tree species in southern swamp forests are bald cypress and water tupelo, two trees adapted to the flooded conditions of their environment. Pine flatwoods can also be found in and around the swamp and are home to a host of plants and animals such as the threatened eastern indigo snake and the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker. These forests also serve as important carbon sinks, providing climate mitigation benefits.
Photos: Cypress trees; Red-cockaded woodpecker (USFWS)
Island Prairies
The prairies are unforested areas in the swamp (marsh or pond areas) and cover over 60,000 acres. They are home to many wading birds including the threatened wood stork, which forage in groups among these open wetlands. There are 22 named prairies in the Okefenokee Swamp. Chase Prairie is the largest prairie, spanning more than 6,000-acres. In normal water levels the prairies are flooded with 6-18 inches of water.
Photo: Wood storks (© Randy Traynor)
Creek Channels
Blackwater channels are slow-moving waters flowing through forested swamps or wetlands. As vegetation decays, tannins leach into the water, making a transparent, acidic water that is darkly stained, resembling black tea.
These channels are prime habitat for the American alligator. In fact, there are an estimated 12,000 gators plying the swamp, most notably along the very same channels that are regularly traveled by boaters creating unique wildlife viewing opportunities.
Photo: American alligator (© Michael Lusk)
Despite being this biodiverse, healthy, and critical national treasure, Okefenokee and the St. Mary’s River were listed in American Rivers Most Endangered Rivers report for 2020. The swamp and the St. Marys and Suwannee Rivers that it feeds now face the threat of a heavy minerals mine on property bordering the National Wildlife Refuge.
Photo: Eastern screech owl (© Graham McGeorge)
