Sabor de Highlandtown
Info/Información
(Español abajo) A walk down Highlandtown’s Eastern and Highland Avenues reveals a range of immigrant-owned businesses. Smells emanate from rotisseries filled with roasted chickens and menus boast of specialties like Bún chả, mariscadas, menudos, baleadas, kabsa, and mapo tofu, along with more legible classics like tacos, burritos, General Tsao’s chicken, kebab, pho, and birrias available, too. What can the stories behind these foods tell us about how neighborhoods change? A collaboration between UMBC American Studies students, Southeast CDC, and Highlandtown restaurateurs attempts to tell a part of this history by featuring the stories and histories that make up “Sabor de Highlandtown.”
Un paseo por Eastern y Highland Avenue de Highlandtown revela una variedad de negocios propiedad de inmigrantes. Los olores emanan de los asadores llenos de pollos asados y los menús cuentan con especialidades como Bún chả, mariscadas, menudos, baleadas, kabsa y mapo tofu, junto con clásicos más legibles como tacos, burritos, pollo del General Tsao, kebab, pho y birrias. ¿Qué nos pueden decir las historias detrás de estos alimentos sobre cómo cambian los vecindarios? Una colaboración entre los estudiantes de Estudios Americanos de la UMBC, Southeast CDC, y los restauradores de Highlandtown intenta contar una parte de esta historia presentando los relatos e historias que conforman “Sabor de Highlandtown”.
Including/Incluso a: Pedro Silva of Tex-Mex, Jose Vargas of Vargas Bakery, Juan Nuñez and Franchesca Nuñez of Franchesca’s Empanadas, Carlos Nufio and Carla Licona of Los Primos Food taco trailer, and Hiralda De La Cruz of Puerto Jarocho, Su Zhang, Oriental Wok, Jassi Singh, Filippo’s, Carlos Cruz, Carlos O’Charlies, Ascar Mozeb, Queen of Sheeba, Maria Alvarado, Diner Latino
Produced by/Producido por: Johanna Barrantes, Amanda Smit, Andy Dahl, Sarah Fouts, Kristin Kelly, jes godinez, David Fitzgerald, Jake Mooney, Larissa Kuonen, Martha Berkheimer, Kyle Casamento, Andrea Quispe, Iñaki Zárate, Marco Di Pietro, Karla Press-Porter, Taylor Phelps, Gigi Fredrickson, Hailey Davio
Supported by/Apoyado por: UMBC Public Humanities, UMBC American Studies, Maryland Traditions, UMBC CIRCA, the Southeast CDC, AMST403/682 Food Ethnography in America courses.
Photographs courtesy of Southeast CDC.
StoryMap updated: May 2024
Highlandtown sign inside Francesca's Empanadas (Photo Credit: Andy Dahl)
Explore/Explorar
FRANCHESCA'S EMPANADAS
Franchesca Nuñez was born in San Cristobal, Dominican Republic and is the owner of Francesca's Empanadas located at 428 S. Highland Avenue. Franchesca enjoyed empanadas while growing up in Flushing Queens where she learned to eat and eventually make Colombian-style Empanadas. Currently, her menu boasts of empanadas that range from pizza, beef, chicken, seafood, crab, spinach and cheese flavors as well as vegan, gluten free, and an array of dessert options. Her menu also includes different types of bowls and sandwiches. Franchesca helped build her Highlandtown businesses with her husband, Juan Nuñez who owns Top Cellular just across the street. Her favorite part about the Highlandtown neighborhood is its rich diversity and she aims to make everyone feel welcome.
Produced by: Sarah Fouts
TEX MEX CORNER AND DELI
Pedro Silva is the owner and operator of Tex-Mex Corner Deli & Grocery, a convenience store located at 300 South Highland Ave, Baltimore, Maryland where he has been a staple to the community for over 20 years. Born in El Cuco, El Salvador, which boasts the most beautiful beaches you will ever see, Pedro discovered his love and passion for the culinary arts baking bread and delivering loaves door to door working for and alongside his beloved mother. Destined to succeed, Pedro uncovered the untapped market of Tex-Mex cuisine in Baltimore with his delectable signature dishes of homemade nachos, tacos, tamales, pollo cortados, fajitas, enchiladas, and delicious pupusas. With so many necessities and comfort foods to choose from, it will forever be Pedro’s kindhearted warmth that he brings to his business that will drive community members back to his business. The only thing that Pedro loves more than the Highlandtown community is his family which are one in the same thanks in part to his success driven demeanor.
Produced by: Jake Mooney
Vargas Bakery
Jose Vargas is the owner of Vargas Bakery and Taqueria Vargas and Restaurant in Highlandtown, where he has been a business resident for over 15 years. Born in Huaquechula, Puebla in México, a town known for their flavorful and comforting breads, he learned his passion for baking and sharing his food with people from his grandfather, Lugardo Vargas. As a hard-worker with a dream, Jose started with a single bakery in Greektown, and along with the dedication of his wife to the business, they have now become the proud owners of the two Highlandtown establishments, Vargas Bakery and Restaurant in Essex, as well as a bar restaurant on the way, El Golazo. You can find a treat for almost any craving you may be having from either of his establishments. He sells a wide range of baked goods at Vargas Bakery, from simple donuts to complex layered cakes. And when you’re in a savory mood, you can hop across the street to the Taqueria and satisfy your tastebuds with tacos, enchiladas, tortas, or more. Jose enjoys being a part of the neighborly Highlandtown community and has done an amazing job bringing his traditional treats to Baltimore City.
Produced by: jes godinez
El Puerto Jarocho Mexican & Seafood Restaurant
Hiralda was born in the Dominican Republic and was influenced mainly by her grandmother's personality and cooking style. She is the owner of El Puerto Jarocho Restaurant which is located at 3713 Eastern Avenue. Being in Baltimore for 22 years, with 12 of those years being an owner of 2 restaurants, she has learned how to cultivate her restaurants to resemble the thriving atmosphere of the neighborhood and incorporate a menu that her customers will love. The cultural backgrounds of both her and her husband allowed for there to be a perfect cohesion of Mexican and Dominican cuisine. Hiralda is proud of being a part of this community and is willing to invest her time and energy to make Highlandtown a welcoming and enjoyable place to be.
Produced by: David Fitzgerald
LOS PRIMOS FOOD
Carlos Nufio and Carla Licona are originally from Santa Barbara, Honduras. The couple sell their typical Honduran dishes like pollo con tajadas and taquitos at their taco truck, Los Primos Food, located in the parking lot of the Hazlo Grocery story. The duo also run a food stand just one hundred yards away from their taco truck where they serve fruits like mango and "nance," tamales, and beverages like horchata, atol, and tamarind juice.
Produced by: Andy Dahl
Queen of Sheba مطعم الملكه سبأ
Asker Mozeb is the owner of Queen of Sheba, a Yemeni restaurant that he and his cousin have run since his father took over from the previous owner. As Yemeni immigrants, they were patrons of Queen of Sheba and sought to preserve its legacy. Asker also owns Krispy Krunchy Chicken, conveniently located just two doors down from Queen of Sheba, with additional branches spread across the city. Having lived in Baltimore since 2017, he has worked hard to grow his businesses and establish a loyal customer base. Asker appreciates the diversity of Highlandtown, given its strong sense of community, and hopes to share the culture of Yemeni people by bringing positive energy and listening to the community's needs.
Produced by: Kristin Kelly, Hailey Davio, and Taylor Phelps
Diner Latino
Maria Alvarado is the owner of Diner Latino. She came to the United States from El Salvador in 1998. She spent several years working in various trades before joining the restaurant industry. Recognizing the lack of late night Latin American food establishments, Maria opened Diner Latino in 2015. Since then she has offered a space for cultural interaction and community creation with a sense of social responsibility, through a close relationship with her customers, with other restaurant owners who make up the neighborhood restaurant scene, and with the broad community of Highlandtown.
Produced by: Iñaki Zarate and Andrea Quispe
Filippos Pizzeria
Jassi Singh is the owner of two pizza shops in Highlandtown: Spartan’s and Fillippo’s. He and his brothers immigrated from Punjab, India, with aspirations of achieving success in America. From humble beginnings working in a pizza shop, he now owns two restaurants in Highlandtown Baltimore and an event space in the suburbs. While both restaurants may share some similar menu items, Jassi and his family have cultivated two uniquely different experiences. Filippo’s, which is Italian, has a bar and focuses more on a dine-in experience with plenty of entertainment throughout the week. Spartans, which is Greek, prioritizes a “fresh food fast” and takeout experience. Both restaurants have their own unique clientele and have become staples in Highlandtown.
Produced by: Marco Di Pietro and Declan Miller
Oriental Wok
Su Zhang is the owner of Oriental Wok located at 3316 Eastern Ave. She’s from Fu Jian province in southern China. Su opened Oriental Wok in 2002 after relocating to Baltimore with her husband through existing connections in the United States. They chose Highlandtown due to its affordability and climate similarities to Su's hometown. They primarily focused on learning about restaurants before venturing into their own business. Since 2002, she has specialized in making Cantonese and Szechuan food but caters to her growing community through her passion for making food and her love for the place in which she has built a home.
Produced by: Gigi Fredrickson and Karla Press-Porter
Carlos O'Charlies
Carlos Cruz is the owner of Carlos O’ Charlies in Highlandtown, a Salvadorian Mexican restaurant. He started his restaurant career as a dishwasher, and despite the lack of support and opportunities from his community, he created opportunities for himself. Carlos felt the neighborhood, specifically the Latinx community, needed a restaurant that would bring people together. Carlos O’ Charlies is a popular weekend spot for anyone looking to hang out, eat [good] foods, listen to good music, dance in the club, and have a good time. They offer a variety of dishes from pasta dishes, to seafood specials, to their signature cocktails, Carlos O’ Charlies is the place in Highlandtown for community and good food.
Produced by: Jackson Tucker, Soph Crowell, and Alex Wilson
Chicken Rico
Situated on Highlandtown's Eastern Avenue, Chicken Rico has become a culinary staple in Baltimore. Its Peruvian rotisserie chicken, marinated in a blend of spices including Peruvian aji amarillo, captivates diners with its distinct flavor. Accompanied by zesty aji verde, aji amarillo, and creamy huancaina sauces, it offers a budget-friendly yet delicious meal. The restaurant's success hinges on owners' dedication to quality, tracing back to its inception in Lima, Peru, in 1970 by Dora Giordano. Now led by Mirian Giordano and Fernando Sanchez, Chicken Rico has expanded from Falls Church, Virginia, in 1995 to four locations across Maryland. Remaining faithful to their 50-year-old family recipe, the chain also caters to other Latin American tastes with Mexican dishes.
Produced by: Abdul Yagoub and Asif Tanjim
CINCO DE MAYO GROCERY STORE
Located on South Highland Avenue, "Mercado Cinco de Mayo" serves as a cultural hub in the Highlandtown neighborhood. Established in January 2008, it combines a grocery store and variety shop, offering fresh produce, prepared foods, and daily goods. Ethnic businesses, like Cinco de Mayo, preserve cultural traditions by supplying ingredients for traditional recipes and fostering community among immigrants. Despite challenges like ICE crackdowns and the COVID-19 pandemic, its resilience stems from community support. Adjacent to their restaurant, the store's expansion ensures accessibility for all residents. Cinco de Mayo exemplifies the indispensable role of immigrant-owned businesses in enriching diverse communities like Highlandtown.
Produced by: Juelle Lee and Leah Arfa
History/Historia
Produced by: Martha Berkheimer, Kyle Casamento, and Larissa Kuonen
THE EVOLVING FLAVORS OF HIGHLANDTOWN
The Highlandtown neighborhood represents the diverse culture of Baltimore’s immigrant community. Originally Piscataway and Susquehannock land that was settled by European immigrants in 1866, the name “Highlandtown” was derived from its central location, where the surrounding countryside could be seen for miles.
Over the course of the next century, Highlandtown experienced rapid growth, fueled by its strategic location near the Port of Baltimore and the establishment of key industries such as textile factories, breweries, canneries, and manufacturing plants. With the aid of new businesses, location, and demographic changes, Highlandtown transformed from a small neighborhood into a thriving working-class hub.
Through white flight, deindustrialization, and mid-twentieth century urban renewal projects, Highlandtown’s population decreased; nevertheless, immigrants played a pivotal role in the area's remarkable regrowth beginning in the 1980s.
This surge in population was mirrored by the flourishing immigrant food culture that took root in the neighborhood. Street food vendors, restaurants, corner stores, markets, and grocery stores emerged along Eastern, Highland, and Conkling avenues, offering an array of international cuisines and ingredients.
From yucca to plantains and other tropical produce, alongside shelves stocked with spices like achiote, za'atar, sumac, Sichuan peppers, and ajwain, these establishments contributed to the culinary landscape of the area.
By the late twentieth century, Highlandtown became home to many Latin American immigrants who opened retail stores, restaurants, and churches, building diverse communities within the neighborhood.
The culinary landscape underwent a notable transformation as traditional European fare like wursts, souvlakis, and tiramisus gradually gave way to the influence of new immigrant communities. The cuisine was exemplified by the emergence of dishes such as pupusas, tacos, haneths, Peruvian chickens, and mai fun. These shifts represent the culinary richness brought forth by Yemeni, Salvadoran, Mexican, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Dominican immigrant populations.
Baltimore's Latin American community constitutes the majority of immigrant-owned businesses in the neighborhood. However, it's important to recognize that Latin Americans encompass various ethnicities and nationalities. As journalist Henry Searupa aptly noted in 1980, this community is "many small ones," highlighting the range of people and cultures within it.
Across Southeast Baltimore, Latin Americans joined Black Americans, Koreans, Greeks, Lumbee Indians, Middle Easterners, and other ethnic groups. They reside alongside one another, forming multicultural communities.
Many restaurant owners in Highlandtown have long recognized the diversity of their customer base and cater to those differences. For example, Daisy Ramos, the owner of Panaderia Ramos, said in a 2004 Baltimore Sun article that she organized her menu to reflect the array of cultures represented by her customers. Much like Ramos, businesses such as Gringo’s, a restaurant with Mexican food and atmosphere, had iconic catchphrases such as “for gringos? Highlandtown eatery cautious in its choice of Mexican food” to emphasize the rise of ethnic enclaves.
Chinese restaurant owners such as Su Zhang from Oriental Wok, whose native language is Cantonese, have made the effort to learn English and Spanish to communicate with their clientele effectively.
Along with the Latin American mom-and-pop shops, many Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants have also added their own “sabor” to the Highlandtown neighborhood. Bringing fresh flavors to Eastern Avenue and beyond, business owners like Jassi Singh, co-owner of Filippo’s Pizzeria and Spartan Pizza, are introducing new culinary experiences and revitalizing European-owned pizzerias. In doing so, they infuse their own flavor into these establishments, ensuring the continuation of Italian and Greek food traditions while making their mark on local menus. Interweaving multiple cultures and representations is key to understanding the experiences of immigrants in Highlandtown.
Shared access to neighborhood foodscapes fosters a sense of belonging and can help people move closer to addressing racial inequities within the neighborhood and beyond.
Jose Vargas standing in front of Vargas Bakery (Photo Credit: Andy Dahl)
Documentary/Documental
Sponsored by Library of Congress and American Folklife Center’s Homegrown Foodways Series and Maryland Traditions.
Pan Dulce from Vargas Bakery (Photo Credit: Andy Dahl)
The film developed from the Sabor de Highlandtown clip edited and produced by jes godinez.
El Camino del Pan a Baltimore chronicles the life of José Vargas, owner of a bakery and taqueria located in Highlandtown, a neighborhood in East Baltimore. Vargas migrated to Baltimore from Huaquechula, Mexico and decided to build on his family tradition of baking bread. Jose's story began in Mexico with his family's bakery, but after arriving in Baltimore he established a business selling Mexican fare using a pushcart stationed in Patterson Park. His first brick and mortar location was a bakery located in the Greektown neighborhood amidst a dwindling European immigrant community. With support from family and friends, he has since grown into a four-business enterprise - a bakery, taqueria, bar, and restaurant in Essex. Traditions of waking early to prepare the dough began with his grandfather and he has since used that knowledge to build his businesses in a changing neighborhood.
Pan Dulce from Vargas Bakery (Photo Credit: Andy Dahl)
Press/Prensa
Garcia, Stephanie. “ UMBC Students Archive Highlandtown’s Latino Immigration History and Food Culture .” Baltimore Sun (blog), December 28, 2021.
Hebron, Grace. “ New Film Project Follows Mexican Chefs in Baltimore and New Orleans. ” Baltimore Magazine, November 8, 2023.
Robinson, Lisa. “ Collaboration Project Showcases Latin American Owners and Their Restaurants. ” WBAL, October 7, 2022.
Stefano, Michelle. “ 2023 Homegrown Foodways Film Series: Baltimore and New Orleans: Bringing Two Cities in Dialogue with Each Other through Mexican Food | Folklife Today. ” Webpage. The Library of Congress, October 30, 2023.
Stefano, Michelle. “ Homegrown Foodways Film Premiere: El Camino Del Pan a Baltimore | Folklife Today .” Webpage. The Library of Congress, November 7, 2023.
Empanadas from Franchesca's (Photo Credit: Andy Dahl)
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