Malaea
Pokai Bay Beach Park
MOʻOLELO ʻĀINA - HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY PROJECT
GEO 368 University of Hawai'i at Manoa
The information shared in this StoryMap was acquired using primary and secondary approaches to research.
Primary approach: Interviews from oral teachings of Kumus Glen Kila and Christophor Oliveira. Both kupuka’aina, lineal descendants of the aboriginal families in Wai'anae.
Secondary approach: Literliterally reviews, record reviews.
Sunset at Malaea Bay
Wai'anae
Malaea can be found nestled in the West side of Oahu, in the moku and ahu'puaa of Wai'anae.
The Waianae Coast received its name from the mullet that was abundant here. Wai means water, and ʻanae means large mullet, perhaps from mullet in the "muliwai", or brackish-water pools, that were once common in the backshore on many Waiʻanae beaches. (Young, 2019)
The Wai'anae District in pre-Mahele days extended south from the leeward slopes of the Wai'anae Range toward the 'Ewa District, and west toward the leeward coast. It included a long, narrow strip of land, formerly known as Wai'anae Uka, that stretched across Kolekole Pass all the way to the windward Ko'olau Range, sandwiched between Waialua and 'Ewa Districts (Jan Becket, & Joe Singer, 1999). Pana O’ahu : Sacred Stones, Sacred Land. University of Hawaii Press.
The Wai'anae Moku is divided into eight ahupua'a Wai'anae, Keawa'ula, Kahanahaiki, Makua, 'Ohikilolo, Kea'au, Makaha, Wai'anae, and Nanakuli. Wai'anae is known for its beautiful beaches, rugged coastline, and stunning mountain scenery.
In the 1300's tell of the formation of moku size countries. A.D. 1320 -1340 the sons of the chief Maweke were in charge over three noted countries in Oahu. Ewa, Kona, and Ko'olaupoko. Some accounts suggest that Kumuhonua (Mawekes grandson) was the nominal ruler of all Oahu about 1340-1360 (Rooss Cordy, An Ancient History of Wai'anae)
Famed king named Kuali'i was born around 1550, he is said to have lived 175 years. The district of Wai'anae was independent at the time and they have their own chief. Kuali'i was also famous for his physical prowess. It is said he could run around the island of O'ahu 5 times in one day, and out on the road to Wai'anae called Keahumoa he once lept twenty fathoms across a wide ravine to escape an enemy.
Waiʻanae Ahupuaʻa within the Waiʻanae District was its Royal Center in the late-1600s to the 1700s. The ahupuaʻa had numerous important heiau and the largest population of the district at European contact.
In Wai'anae earliest permanent settlements were in Wai'anae Valley at Poka'i Bay, in association with its flowing stream (Kaupuni) and at Kamaile with its spring (Keko'o) as they were the two best-watered coastal lands in the moku (Rooss Cordy, An Ancient History of Wai'anae)
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Waianae became an important center for the sugar industry. European and American planters established sugar plantations in the area, and thousands of workers, including many immigrants from Asia, were brought in to work on the plantations. Waianae is one of the most densely populated areas of Native Hawaiians in the world, and according to (Datausa, 2023) the largest ethnic group in Waianae is Native Hawaiian & Pacific Islander.
According to a historical description compilation by (Young P T, 2019) we see controversial descriptions of the area.
In 1793, Vancouver described Waiʻanae as desolate and barren: “From the commencement of the high land to the westward of Opooroah [Puʻuloa] was … one barren rocky waste, nearly destitute of verdure, cultivation or inhabitants, with little variation all to the west point of the island. …”
A Waiʻanae kahuna (priest) prophesied the coming of a “big fish” who “would eat all the little fish.” The following year (1795,) Kamehameha invaded and conquered Oʻahu. Following Kamehameha’s succession as ruling chief, “the despoiled people in large numbers fled to Waiʻanae and settled there. This part of Oahu being hot, arid, isolated, with little water, was not coveted by the invaders”. (City P&R)
In direct contrast was an inland description of Waiʻanae recorded by Handy in 1940: In ancient times Waiʻanae Valley had extensive systems of terraces along its various streams, in what is now forest and water reserve, and well down into the broad area not covered by sugar cane.
Names were obtained for 14 district terrace sections, watered by Olahua Stream, extending as far down as the site of the present power house. The section named Honua, including the group of terraces farthest inland, belonged to the aliʻi of the valley. (City P&R)
Ahupua'a and their stream systems.
Malaea
Malaea is the name of the portion of the Waianae Coast between Kaneilio Point and Mauna Lahilahi. Malaea shelters the sandy beach of Nene'u. Malaea also pronounced Maraea, comes from the word malae, which means peaceful, and calm. This is reflected in the calm waves that wash up on shore. The calmest area is at the southern end of the bay, next to the breakwater. There's a wide reef in the middle of the bay and the waves that break on it are usually small, which makes it a good spot for beginning surfers. (To-Hawaii.com, 2010)
The peninsula's shoreline has a few memorials for people whose ashes have been scattered offshore. It is also a popular fishing location. At the north end of the bay is Kaupuni Stream. In the center of the bay is the Wai'anae Army Recreation Center, which was acquired by the federal government in 1918.
Marae also means place of learning, as maraes were ancient learning centers in Polynesian societies. A marae is not simply a school; the land that maraes were built on would have encompassed a temple, a learning center, and other cultural resources that made them holistic and culturally specific in their learning.
A large coral stone marker is located at Malaea Bay. The stone reads "Malama I Ko Makou ʻĀina".
"Malama" means to care, protect, or preserve, "i" means "for," "ko" means "our," "makou" means "us," and "āina" means "land." So, the phrase encourages taking responsibility for the stewardship of the land and its natural resources. "Ko Makou" us and our, āina. Meaning the kupu ka āina, the sprout of the land, the lineal decedents of Wai'anae are the one responsible, or able to respond and interpret for the Wai'anae district.
The hina stone, or coral was also chosen for a purpose. In ancient times Hawaiian's the coral would reflect the moon and attract the fish to it, in the same way the stone is meant to attract the people from Wai'anae back to important places of learning and gathering. This stones can be found al alone the Wai'anae coast displaying the proper original names of the places in Wai'anae.
After the 12th century, Malaea became a vibrant fishing village where Hawaiians lived and thrived for centuries. Up until a few generations ago, the housing alongside the beach here all belonged to family members of those native to Waianae. Similar to Makua, however, this beach and coastal area started to become a key training site for the US military as early as the 1930s. Today, Malaea Bay is no longer a place of residence for the community, but remains a popular beach park that includes a military recreation center.
Through the years and undergoing several different occupations Malaea has changed in landscape and in use, but the community remains adamant about protecting wahipana (sacred sites) from further damaging development in this area. For example, on the sight of the ancient temple, located on the south side of Malaea Bay, a lighthouse was built during the 1930s. (Temples are commonly known across Hawai'i as Heiau, but there were many types of temples, and in Oahu, these temples were known as Unu).
Luckily the community was able to fight to restore the temple as a protected sacred site. Today, the Unu is reconstructed, which was accomplished by community efforts after the lighthouse was taken down in 1978.
Underneath the hina stone the plaque reads...
Pokai was originally named Malaea, meaning calm or serene, Malaea shelters the sandy beach of nene'u and the site of the temple called Ku'ilioloa Heuai at Kane'ilio point. Dedicated to a dog Kupua (spirit), rites performed at the heiau protected those traveling by land and sea.
At the north end of the bay is Kaupuni Stream, the swapping ground of anae (mullet) which gave Wai'anae (mullet waters) its name. The village Pokai, famous for its coconut grove once lay near the stream.

Pokai Bay:
This area is known today as Poka’i Bay (meant to be pronounced Po-kah-ee, but more often pronounced Po-kai by locals).
Hawaiian history tells of the Tahitian chief Pōkaʻī, who is said to have brought the first coconut trees to Hawaii and planted them in Waianae. There, he grew his most famous grove, Ka Ulu Niu o Pōka‘ī. The present-day beach park, Pokai Bay, is named after him.
Map depicting spread of Ka ulu niu o Poka'i
At Poka'i Bay, O'ahu kahuna had established a school or marae in an effort to preserve the folklore of O'ahu and to teach subjects such as history, navigation, and the genealogies of the O'ahu chiefs (Jan Becket, & Joe Singer, 1999). Pana O’ahu : Sacred Stones, Sacred Land. University of Hawaii Press.
Kohenui and the Paheehee Holua sled
Holua: A competitive sport of the elites, involving riding a narrow two-runner sled down a specially prepared course (Kirck P, 2010. How Chiefs Become Kings)
One significant feature of Malaea Bay is a sea cave on the left side after entering the first section of the temple. This sea cave has different names that each express a different story about its significance.
One name is Pohaku o Lapalapa. Pohaku refers to the rocks that make up the sea cave, while lapalapa means “to splash” or “bubbling.” This literal place name expresses the splashing of the seawater onto the rocks of the cave as we see on the main picture.
Streaching from Mauna Kuwale towares Kaneilio point, seen from above is Pu'u Pahe'ehe'e.
Another name for the sea cave is Halapoe. Hala means “passing” and poe means “people.” This name was used as the remains of deceased family members were placed there when they died. From the cave, the body is carried out into the ocean by the waves, where it is deified by the family shark ‘aumakuas. ‘Aumakuas are the ancestral gods. Au means time, while makua means parent. They often manifest in the form of animals, with different animals specific to different families. For the families in Waianae, their ‘aumakuas manifest as sharks.
Finally, the oldest name for this sea cave is Kohe Nui, translating to the “Great Vagina.” The name directly relates to its function for the families of Wai'anae. The Kohe Nui, is directly related to the adjacent mountain complex called Pu'u Pahe'ehe'e. (He'e is the word for octopus in Hawai'i and the mountain resembles the long arm of an octopus when seen from above). and it extends out towards Mauna Kuwale
According to my interviews with Kumu Glen and Christopor, Pu'u Pahe'ehe'e was part of a Holua Sled.
The Holua sled was not a game or sport as depicted by history books today. And every Holua sled would be related to a lua or pit at the end of it. In this case, the lua is Kohe Nui.
View of Pu'u Pahe'ehe'e from Kohe Nui
Pu’u Pahe’ehe’e has a narrow and steep edge that faces directly towards Kohe Nui. Historically, this ridge served as a pathway for the holua, In ancient times, the ali’i (chiefs), would sled down the mountain in a race, representing the sperm going down the shaft of the penis and run in a race to reach Kohe Nui. Whoever reached the sea cave first would be born of the gods and have the right to rule for the season. This was a practice and a story about life and creation.
From tip to Lua .92 miles distance straight line
Whats in a Name?
O wai kou inoa
"O" is a particle in Hawaiian used to indicate emphasis or to introduce a subject, "wai" means "water", "kou" means "your", and "inoa" means "name", family name, or even affectionate term for affinal relatives.
Loosely translated to what is the name of your water. This can be interpreted in two ways.
What is the name of your headwaters, or where you are from? Knowing how Hawaiian people managed hydrology around the ahupua'a all persons sharing a water source would share a significant degree of kinship to the land and each other and could trace back to a specific stream and mountain.
Another interpretation is the one connected to direct genealogy. When a woman is born she breaks water, this would be the direct source of the name for that person. O wai Kou Inoa!
In Hawaiian culture, the importance of place names is deeply rooted in the connection between place. Names often have historical and cultural significance, and they can convey important information about the land's physical features, history, and natural resources.
Place names in Hawaii can also serve as a reminder of the importance of preserving the natural environment and the cultural heritage of the islands. For example, many place names in Hawaii are associated with important cultural practices, such as fishing, farming, and navigation, and they serve as a reminder of the traditional knowledge and practices that have sustained Hawaiian communities for centuries.
In addition to their cultural significance, place names in Hawaii also have practical importance. For example, they are used in navigation, land management, and resource conservation. Place names also help to create a sense of identity and belonging for Hawaiian people, as they connect them to the land and the culture of their ancestors.
Hawai'i had no official written language, mountains, temples and natural features where the canvas to express and pass information down.
In the state of Hawai'i in accordance with NAGPRA law and OHA guidelines records are kept identifying points of contacts that represent the families of a certain area when it comes to making decisions on human remains found during development across the island.
In the same way, it is understood that in Hawaiian tradition the lineal descendants of the area safeguard the mo'olelo of place names and traditions of their homeland. "Malama I ko Makou Aina"
This comes from the understanding that changing the name of a place erases all the traditional information and knowledge embedded within it.
Another important point to understand is that before European Conquest Hawai'i was at War and chiefs from Maui and Hawai'i Island set out for conquest and took over certain areas, placing their own name to important features.
As migrational conquests come to an end with European influence the perspective of the prevailing chief is broadly painted onto the rest of Hawaii.
Ancient Heiau / Unu
Hei" means "to hold/contain" or "to capture/trap" "snare" in Hawaiian. "A'u" means the pronoun I, me, also "aura, spirit or presence". The name came from the typical sacrificial temples in Hawai'i island.
WeheWhe defines unu as 'Altar, heiau, especially a crude one for fishermen or for the god Lono. Unu kupukupu (PH 31, 202), an agricultural heiau."
1884 oldest map of the area
According to my interviews in Oahu traditionally there was no sacrificial temples. Kane temples were called Unu, and it was Kapu to sacrifice man. The phrase "ua kapu ke ola na Kane" recognizes the sacredness of life and the importance of preserving and respecting the natural world, which is considered a manifestation of Kane's power and presence. The concept of "kapu" in Hawaiian culture refers to sacredness, holiness, or taboo, and emphasizes the importance of maintaining harmony and balance with the natural world.
At the south end of the Bay an ancient temple can be found. The temple juts out into the ocean and is surrounded by water on three sides. It has three platforms, with evidence of terracing. The most important platform is at the end of the point. It is the highest, and terraces once marked the three sides toward the sea (McAllister, 1930). The second platform is lower than the first and is slightly wider. The third platform is lower than the second and can only be distinguished from the ground to the north and west by a row of stones in the grass.
According to oral interviews with Glen and Christophor Kane temples are distinguishable for their three individual levels, called lana, nu’u, and mamao. These levels are representative of levels in the sky. Lana means to float and is the lowest level or the one closest to the Earth. Nu’u is the second level. It is the space in the sky that the treetops stretch into and where the clouds are. Mamao, the third layer, is the deep space beyond the stars.
3 layers can be seen here
Terracing
Hale O papa (Womens house)
Front view
Ceremonial Platform
The temple is still used today for traditional ceremonies such as the arrival of the Hōkūleʻa .
In the photo Glen Kila, Christophor Olivera 6th and 7th from the left to right, Hōkūleʻa arrival 2017.
By now we have seen the theme of different names and stories being told about this place. The name of this temple is not excluded.
When I first learned about this temple I was introduced to it as Kaneilio temple, as it is reflected in the name of the point as well. However, if we read the plaque on the Malaea coral stone we see it mentions the name Ku'ilioloa. It is important to understand that although migrational history is important to preserve, when it comes to place names only using the original name of the place is the correct name to use.
I set out to find evidence about the origins of the name of this temple. Not much information is found pointing to the direct place name of the temple.
From (Pukui, 1989 Pocket Place names in Hawai'i). Ku'ilio-loa. Long dog Ku. Heiau at tip of Kane'ilio Pt. Wai'anae Oahu, named for a legendary dog who protected travelers; later the qualities of a bad dog were unfairly attributed to him. In one story he is defeated by Kama-pua'a.
Another document that contains information about the temple was the 1979 Archeological Research for the Ku'ilioloa Heiau restoration project (to restore it back after the military finally decided to bulldoze the lighthouse from the 1930s.
The Summary concludes:
"Unfortunately, not very much information about Ku’lioloa Heiau has been recorded. Of the heiau itself, little is known except for its physical description. There were only two sources found which attempted to explain what kind of a heiau it was. From the Mouritz article, it maybe inferred that the heiau site after 1795 was used as a school for the youth of Wai’anae by the defeated O’ahu kahuna. McAllister uses Ku’ilioloa as an example of a fishing heiau, which is larger than the usual fishing shrine (ko’a)(McAllister1933:10-il)."
"There seems to be no tradition about when the temple might have been constructed. All that we know for certain is that it was prior to 1884. The date of the earliest map that shows a heiau located on Kane’ilio Point and on which the site is indicated with the words ‘‘ancient heiau”
"The drawing with the greatest detail of the plan of the heiau was made by McAllister(1933:113). His map also indicates an extra platform (Feature8;seearchaeologysection) not shown on other maps."
I also uncovered different other stories and videos from online sources that suggest the temple was built by Tahitian navigator Pokai when brought the Nui and landed at Malaea, Another says Lonokaeho, another Tahitian navigator brought the first rock around the 1600's
The temple found at Malaea bay, even as described by Mcallister in its earliest account was clearly a terraced style temple.
From my research according to (Stokes, 1991 Heiau of the Island of Hawai'i. A historic survey of Native Hawaiian Temples) "Based on the character of their foundations, the heiau would seem to fall into two classes- The platform and the walled enclosure. The terraced form was was generally and elaboration of the platform type. The location selected for the heiau was, as a rule, a commanding position such as the brow of a hill, the slope of a ridge, or the top of a rise in a plain."
"According to Fornander, the platform type is the older, being in existence at the begging of the eleventh century"
This indicates that the temple was constructed much prior to all what all the evidence suggests.
For this reasons and from my understanding of how Hawai'ian tradition works we are supposed to Nana Ike kumu....look to the source, the head waters, the inoa of the place.
In this case that kuleana belongs to Kumu Glen Kila and Christophor Olivera the Kupu Ka Aina and lineal descendants of hte original families of Wai'anae. And as the name of the point is referred in my opion so should the sacred temple there.
According to Kumu Glen and Christophor he name Kane’ilio further denotes the navigational role of this temple. Many people mistake this name to be translated into man (Kane) and dog (ilio), coming together to make the name of this temple “man-dog.” However, Kane’ilio is a name with much greater significance. Kane refers to the creation god Kane, who manifests primarily as the sun, as well as many other elements. Ilio is translated as “dog,” to refer specifically to the dog star, Sirius. The navigational star, as well as the white, female dog to which this temple is dedicated, is the protector of travelers on land and sea.