Goethe's Italian Journey

An artistic glance at Goethe's travels through Italy from 1786-1788

Introduction

Goethe (1749-1832) is one of the most influential German writers of all time. While many know him as an author and a playwright, he had a number of other interests, including geology, art, history, and botany. On the night of his 37th birthday, Goethe slipped away to fulfill his dream of a lengthy trip to Italy. From 1786 to 1788 he traveled from Regensburg all the way down to Sicily, remaining in Rome the longest. 

The Journey

A closer look at his travels and some of the art drawn by Goethe in these destinations

1

Donau bei Regensburg

Regensburg: September 3rd, 1786

2

Kolchelsee

Munich: September 6th, 1786

3

Pappeln and Hütte

Malcesine: September 14th, 1786

4

Weingirlanden

Vicenza: September 19th-22nd, 1786

5

Kopie nach Domencio Teipolo

Padua: September 26th-27th, 1786

6

Säulenordnungen nach Palladio

Venice: September 28th-October 10th, 1786

7

Tempel der minerva zu Assisi

Perugia: October 25th, 1786

8

Bei Terni

Terni: October 28th, 1786

9

Blick auf Rom (vorne porta del Popolo)

Rome: Novemeber 1st-Feburary 21st, 1787

10

Aquädukt des Claudius

St. Agata: Feburary 24th, 1787

11

Die Solfatara bei Pozzuoli

Naples: Feburary 25th-March 29th, 1787

12

Sizilianische Gerbirglandschaft

Palermo: April 2nd-17th, 1787

13

Grabmal des Theron in Agrigent

Agrigento: April 23rd-27th, 1787

14

Blick vom Ätna

Enna: April 29th-30th, 1787

15

Meeresbucht mit Felsenküste

Taormina: May 7th-8th, 1787

16

Küstenlandschaft bei Vollmond

Capri: May 14th, 1787

17

Vesuvausbruch

Naples: May 17th-June 6th, 1787

18

Acqua acestosa bei Rom

Rome: June 8th-April 10th, 1788

The Destinations: Past and Present

Comparing some of Goethe's sketches with modern day photographs

Donau bei Regensburg (The river Danube in Regensburg)

In 1786 Regensburg was a bustling city and a major trade center. While Goethe was there, he would have seen the Stone Bridge (c.12th century) and the Regensburg Cathedral (c.18th century). This sketch is likely the view from the Stone Bridge facing out into the river.


Rovereto an der Etsch (Rovereto on the river Adige)

Rovereto at this time would have been an independent state with its own fortress. When Goethe traveled through Rovereto, it was experiencing major cultural and educational developments. Today the city has a mix of old and new, as it features buildings from the medieval period and a famous modern art museum.


Schloss von Malcesine am Gardasee (Castle of Malcesine on Lake Garda)

The Scaliger Castle of Malcesine was built in the medieval period and originally served as a boundary between the Venetian realm and the Austrian empire. It is one of the best preserved medieval castles and transformed into a museum. Although it is now a popular tourist attraction, in 1786 it was mostly limited to locals who were wary of foreigners like Goethe.


Wasserfȧlle des Velino bei Terni (Velino Waterfalls neat Terni)

The Falls of Velino, also known as Cascata delle Marmore, is a man-made waterfall created during the Republic of Rome (circa 270 BCE). When Goethe passed by, he called it a "Second Nature" however, much less water flowed and there were several issues with the ancient construction. In 1787, only a year after Goethe saw the falls, Pope Pius VI modernized it to its current state. Recently it has been used for hydroelectric power and is a common sightseeing spot.


Am Tiber bei Rom (On the Tiber near Rome)

The Tiber River has a rich history in connection to Rome. It is one of the defining geographical landmarks in Italy and held great importance for the Great Roman Empire. While Goethe was there, they had begun an effort to clean the river and improve the ecology, as it had become shallow. Much of the current architecture came after Goethe's time, but there were several prominent ancient buildings and bridges that he would have seen.


Tiberinsel (Island of Tiber)

Tiber Island is a boat-shaped island in the middle of Tiber. Goethe appears to have drawn this from the island, looking out towards the pedestrian bridge, Ponte Sant'Angelo. When Goethe was here, the obelisk from the Roman Empire would have still been in place (destroyed in 1867). He also would have seen the Fatebenefratelli hospital, which is still in place today.


Landgut von Villa Borghese aus (Country estate from Villa Borghese)

The Villa Borghese is a mansion with a garden right in the heart of Rome. It was commissioned in 1606 by a Cardinal. The house remains the same as when Goethe passed through, however the gardens were completely redone in the 19th century. Goethe used his time here to sketch the several beautiful villas in this part of Rome.


Bei Velletri (At Velletri)

Velletri is a comune right outside the heart of Rome, located in the Alban Hills. Now a bustling city, when Goethe passed through it was a small town, featuring the collection of Cavaliere Borgia. Velletri has a rich history as the family home of the Emperor Augustus and the ancient Volsci tribe. Here, Goethe looks at a number of the Volsci sculptures in Borgia's collection.


Art and Architecture

A few notable works of art and architecture that Goethe saw on his journey

The Teatro Filarmonico is an opera house and museum built in 1710 by Francesco Scipione

Seen in Verona on September 16th, 1786

This is not the original building, however when it was rebuilt in 1975 it was meant to be a replica of the first one

The portal of the theater building looks quite respectable with its six large Ionic columns

Assumption of the Virgin was painted by Titian c. 1515, designed as an altarpiece for the church of Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frai

Seen in Verona on September 17th, 1786

Titian's Assumption of the Virgin, in the cathedral, is very blackened, but it is also a laudable idea that the goddess-to-be is not looking heavenwards but down at her friends

Paradise was painted in 1588 by Tintoretto

Seen in Verona on September 17th, 1786

Lightness of brushwork, spirit, variety of expression, to admire and enjoy all this one should own the picture personally and gaze at it for a lifetime

The Olympic Theater was designed by Andrea Palladio and completed in 1585

Seen on September 19th, 1786

Only when these works are actually seen can one recognize their great merit; for them must fill the eye with their true size and concreteness and satisfy the spirit with the beautiful harmony of their dimensions

Bust of Pietro Cardinal Bembo (1470-1547) done by Danese Cattaneo in 1547

Seen in Padua on September 27th, 1786

The bust of Cardinal Bembo stands between Ionic columns, a handsome face, drawn back into itself by force, if I may put thus, and a mighty beard

Villa La Rotonda designed by Palladio c.1560

Seen in Vicenza on September 21st, 1786

One climbs up broad steps on all four sides and each time arrives at a vestibule formed of six Corinthian columns. Perhaps there has never been more extravagant architecture

Basilica di San Marco was built c. 835

Seen in Venice on September 30th, 1786

Has undergone several renovations and restorations since the original construction

The dome and vaulted ceilings of St. Mark's church, along with its side areas, abound in pictures, colorful figures against a golden ground everywhere, mosaic work is everywhere

The School of Athens, painted by Raphael in the Vatican, completed in 1511

Seen in Rome on November 7th, 1786

Just now, at last, I have seen Raphael's loggias and the great paintings, The School of Athens

The Ecstasy of St. Cecilia painted by Raphael in 1515

Seen in Bologna on October 18th, 1786

Raphael's Cecillia! It is what I already knew it would be, but now that I have seen it with my own eyes; he always did what other artists wished to do

Loggia of Psyche in the Villa Farnesina, started by Raphael and completed by his pupil in 1517

Seen in Rome on November 18th, 1786

In Farnesina I saw the story of Psyche, colored copies of which have brightened my rooms for such a long time

Domenichino's frescos inside the church of Sant'Andrea della Valle completed in 1628

Seen in Rome on November 17th, 1786

I can describe the happiness of the day in just a few words. I saw Domenichino's fresco paintings in Andrea della Valle

St. Peter's Basilica was completed in 1626

Seen in Rome on November 20th, 1786

We took delight in its great size and splendor

The Last Judgment was completed by Michelangelo in 1541 and covers the altar wall of the Sistine Chapel

Seen in Rome on November 22nd, 1786

I could do nothing but gaze and marvel. The manliness and inner certainty of I could do nothing but gaze and marvel. The manliness and inner certianty

The Apollo Belvedere is a marble statue from antiquity c. 120-140 BCE

Seen in Rome on December 3rd, 1786

The Pantheon, the Apollo Belvedere, some colossal heads, and recently the Sistine chapel have so captivated my mind and heart that I see almost nothing anymore but them

The tomb of Priestess Mamia, a prominent woman in Pompeii and a priestess of Isis

Seen in Pompeii on March 13th, 1787

The grave of a priestess, made like a semi-circular bench with a stone back, the inscription carved in big letters. Out past its back the sea and the setting sun are visible. A magnificent place, worthy of the splendid idea

Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia was built into the cave where her remains were found

Seen in Palermo on April 6th, 1787

The shrine itself is more in keeping with the humility of the saint who took refuge there than are the magnificent festivals which were instituted to honor her complete reunification of the world

Temple of Concordia is an ancient Greek temple built c. 440 BC

Seen in Agrigento on April 25th, 1787

Its slender architecture brings it quite close to our standards of beauty and grace

Theater of Taormina was built in the 3rd century BC

Seen in Taormina on May 7th, 1787

The stage was built across the base of the graduated semicircle, forming a connection between the two rocks and perfecting a most enormous work of art and nature

Works Cited

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, and Robert Heitner. Goethe Collected Works: Italian Journey. Suhrkamp/Insel Publishers Boston, 1989.

Goethe, and Max Bartholl. Johann Wolfgang Goethe Italienische Reise. Insel Frankfurt Am Main, 1976.

Donau bei Regensburg (The river Danube in Regensburg)

Rovereto an der Etsch (Rovereto on the river Adige)

Schloss von Malcesine am Gardasee (Castle of Malcesine on Lake Garda)

Wasserfȧlle des Velino bei Terni (Velino Waterfalls neat Terni)

Am Tiber bei Rom (On the Tiber near Rome)

Tiberinsel (Island of Tiber)

Landgut von Villa Borghese aus (Country estate from Villa Borghese)

Bei Velletri (At Velletri)