Finding Solitude in the Emerald Necklace

A guide to places less traveled

“We want a ground to which people may easily go when the day’s work is done, and where they may stroll for an hour, seeing, hearing, and feeling nothing of the bustle and jar of the streets where they shall, in effect, find the city put far away from them…” - Frederick Law Olmsted, 1870

The Emerald Necklace parks system spans an incredible 1,100 acres across Boston, touching numerous communities from Charlesgate to Dorchester. While many sections of the parks are heavily trafficked by pedestrians and bikers, numerous hidden gems exist within the Necklace and often go over-looked by those looking to explore the more well known areas! Bellow is our guide for little-known spots and particularly spacious parts of the Necklace.


1

Charlesgate

Envisioned by Frederick Law Olmsted as a connection point between three park systems—the Charles River Esplanade, the Commonwealth Avenue Mall and the Emerald Necklace—Charlesgate is today bisected by a tangle of infrastructure added decades after the parks' construction. Unfortunately, the park's divided nature has led to neglect and held the space back from its full potential.

In 2017, area residents banded together and created the  Charlesgate Alliance , a neighborhood organization dedicated to bringing positive change to the park and its surrounding neighborhood. Working with the Emerald Necklace Conservancy, as well as state and local officials, the Charlesgate Alliance has hired architectural firm  Landing Studio  to create  an exciting vision for the future of Charlesgate  and fundraised to make park improvements. We're excited to see what the future brings to this previously forgotten space!

2

  • Muddy River Water Gauge (Riverway) 
  • After the Muddy River flooded portions of the Green Line transit line and Kenmore train station in October 1996, state officials installed a gauge to monitor water levels near the busy transit line, which runs directly adjacent to the park. It is part of a series of improvements, including the Muddy River Restoration Project, that aim to mitigate damage from future flood events. The gauge has now provided nearly 20 years of continuous measurement and alerts state officials when measurements rise above 15 feet.  You can see the latest measurements from the gauge here! 

    3

  • Willow and Spring Ponds (Olmsted Park) 
  • The smallest of the four ponds that call Olmsted Park home, Willow Pond and Spring Pond are all that remain of what was once a complex system of "natural history pools" envisioned by park architect Frederick Law Olmsted. His vision included a dozen small ponds housing various exotic animals, up to and including a hippopotamus! However, this goal proved to be unsustainable, and the sites of the other pools were later filled in.

    Willow Pond is the larger, deeper, and further west of the pair.

    As its name suggests, Spring Pond is fed by a natural spring. It flows into Willow Pond via a small stream, named Spring Pond Brook, and a waterfall. Spring Pond is also home to the only landlocked freshwater population of  three-spined sticklebacks , a small fish commonly used to study evolutionary processes in animals, in Massachusetts.

    4

    Parkman Memorial (Jamaica Pond) 

    This striking memorial, featuring sculpture by prolific American sculptor  Daniel Chester French , honors eminent Bostonian and historian Francis Parkman (1850-1931). The sculpture is located on the site of Parkman's summer home, Sunnyside. Parkman was well-known for his exploration of the American West and his experiences living with Native Americans, which he wrote about and published to great notoriety. While his opinions and descriptions of Native Americans are offensive and outdated, his publications provide a valuable look into early life in the American West even today.

    Due to his well-known connection with Native American tribes, the memorial is adorned with male and female Native American figures, carved in relief. Intended more as a tribute to Parkman's impact than Parkman himself, the Native American reliefs dominate the 20-foot-tall structure, and are immediately apparent to passersby from across Parkman Drive.

    5

    Walter Street Burying Ground (Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University) 

    Walter Street Burying Ground, located on Peter’s Hill within the Arnold Arboretum, contains the graves of early settlers and Revolutionary soldiers. The soldiers who are buried at the site were stationed at Loring-Greenough House, where they became ill from smallpox. Originally buried at the house’s garden, their remains were moved to Walter Street Burying Ground for a proper burial in 1867.

    6

  • Schoolmaster Hill (Franklin Park) 
  • Who was the Schoolmaster of Schoolmaster Hill? None other than writer, teacher, and founder of Transcendentalism  Ralph Waldo Emerson ! Before Franklin Park was constructed, Emerson called a small cabin on the hill home. Emerson was inspired by the surrounding landscape and wrote about it frequently in his poetry and essays, noting:

    "I never saw a country which more delighted me. A man might travel many hundred miles and not find so fine woodlands as abound in this neighborhood."

    Stone ruins, restored in the 1990s by the  Franklin Park Coalition  and the Boston Parks & Recreation Department, mark the site of a building that once served as the park superintendent's office and as a clubhouse for the adjacent William J. Devine Golf Course. The structure, which provided free hot water for park users to make tea, was popular with many Bostonians. It was destroyed by fire in the 1930s. Nowadays, the ruins frame incredible views of Blue Hills to the south.

    7

  • Abandoned Bear Dens (Franklin Park) 
  • Once the focus of the Franklin Park Zoo, the Bear Dens were designed and built in 1912, and were planned to house a small collection of domestic animals.

    The Bear Dens originally featured a grand staircase leading to a large courtyard, framed by several large iron bear cages. One of these cages, which still stands today, features a detailed stone sculpture of bears and the crest of the City of Boston.

    Plans to expand the zoo around the Bear Dens never came to fruition. Declining attendance and rising costs eventually rendered the Dens too expensive to maintain, and they were closed in 1954. Today, the stone and metal structures remain as an eerie vestige of a time gone by.