Bridlington

A guided tour of the archaeology and heritage of Bridlington's seafront

Hannah Thompson

January 14, 2022

01 / 28

Route

This tour of the historic seaside town of Bridlington is intended to be accessible both as an in- person walking tour and online, as a virtual trail. Our trail starts at the North end of the town and follows a linear route along the seafront which ends in the South area of Bridlington, near the Spa complex. There is then a second section to the trail which is best followed online, or if you have the time to visit in person, takes you up into the old town of Bridlington, pointing out a few key interesting features to look out for in the wider area.

If you start at the car park behind Bridlington Coastguard station, and follow the coast path until you reach the junction of Limekiln Lane and North Marine Drive, this where our tour begins.

Our self-guided Low Tide Trails can be followed virtually as well as physically. If you do undertake a physical walk using our trail as a guide you are responsible for your own welfare and safety. MOLA/CITiZAN cannot accept any liability for injury/damage/trespass as a result.

Stay safe and where necessary ensure social distancing. Also adhere to local COVID-19 restrictions and current government guidance. We also encourage you to enjoy the coastline digitally, through our website and social media.

Lime Kiln Lane

Our tour begins at Lime Kiln Lane, aptly named as it was in this area that historic Lime Kilns were built, visible on a map of the area from 1854 (see above).

Lime Kilns became a feature of the landscape across Britain after their introduction in the Roman period. The kilns were used to burn calcium carbonate such as limestone or chalk at extremely high temperatures, in a process that produced a product which we know as lime, or quicklime. This lime could then be mixed with water, or 'slaked', in order to produce a substance which could then be used as a building material, commonly used in mortars or plasterwork.

Lime can also be used for other purposes such as disinfectant, and to improve the quality of soil by reducing acidity levels, something which is still in practice today both in modern horticulture and in agriculture.

Originally, lime kilns were often located close to the site where the lime was actually to be used, and often within proximity of an area that the calcium carbonate needed in the process (limestone/chalk) could be easily sourced. It makes sense therefore that the lime kiln on site in Bridlington was located close to the chalky outcrop which could potentially have been used to create the lime.

Over time, smaller, individual lime kilns became less useful, given the expansion of lime as a product used in industrial processes, meaning that production shifted to a larger scale [1]. Although it is hard to pinpoint exactly when or why the site on Limekiln Lane fell out of use, a map from 1912 indicates that the kiln may have moved slightly from its original position on the 1854 map, but does not appear at all on a slightly later map from 1929. The access road, previously named 'Sands Lane' has also by this point been renamed as 'Limekiln Lane' meaning that the kiln is likely to have been disused by this point.

[1] See Historic England (2018) Pre-industrial Lime Kilns: Introductions to Heritage Assets.

Range of Seaside Building Styles

As you are walking along the seafront, you will notice that there are a range of different styles of buildings, from a mix of periods. From structured Georgian and Victorian terraces through to Art-Deco style hotels and more modern buildings, there are a real mixture of styles which form Bridlington's modern seafront.

If we look back at old maps, whilst some of the street layouts have been retained, there have been many changes throughout the years, with the expansion of the town evident if we compare maps even 100 years apart.

Site of Old Switchback Railway

Continue walking along the seafront and look to your right as you reach the junction of Lamplugh Road and Marine Drive and you will see the site of Bridlington's original switchback railway, now occupied by a small gardened area and residential housing.

Known more commonly as rollercoasters, switchback railways were the precursor to our modern day rides (albeit somewhat less gravity-defying!). Bridlington's switchback railway was in operation from around 1890, and operated for around 30 years before being demolished in the early 20th century.

Trinity Cut

Continue along Beaconsfield Promenade and you will cross a large iron bridge dating from 1888, one of a pair which cross a slipway leading down to the beach.

Known as the Trinity Cut, the slipway in question is thought to have been used historically to launch the horse-drawn lifeboat in the 19th century.

Continue over the bridge and look to your right and you will note 2 large white posts, reminiscent of a Victorian lamppost. However, these are not lampposts...in fact, they are historic vent pipes for the sewers below!

Church of Holy Trinity, Promenade

Looking back towards the main town from the slipway, you will notice the spire of a large church. The Grade II Listed Church of Holy Trinity was built in 1870 by lesser known architects Smith and Brodrick, in the style of a late 13th century church. Much of the money for the building of the church, including a peal of 3 bells, was donated by the owner of nearby Sewerby House, Rev. Y G Lloyd-Graeme.

This attractive church retains many of its original Victorian features and would be well worth a visit when it is open.

Roman remains

Continue on Beaconsfield Promenade and look out to sea.

If you had stood on this spot almost 2000 years ago you would be looking at a completely different landscape. There is an archaeological record noting that this was the alleged site of a Roman building, however the area has since been eroded away, meaning that the site is now underwater. It is unknown for what purpose the building was intended and is likely that very little, if anything, now remains of the site, however you can get a sense of where the coastline once stood, and in turn, just how much has been lost.

Promenade

Look at historic maps from the area over a period of just 100 years and you will see how the seafront at Bridlington has changed many times over the years.

One thing which has stayed fairly constant however through the years is Beaconsfield prom and sea wall. Although updated and resurfaced a few times over the years, the general line of the prom sits in roughly the same area as when it was first built in the 19th century.

As you are walking along, you will note changes in the style and materials used in the building of the sea-wall. Look carefully and you will also notice a slight change in the style of railings on the seawall. Whilst more modern, rounded finials top the section of seawall closest to Royal Princes Parade, you can still see the much older cast iron railings which these modern railings have replaced in certain sections further back toward the site of the old Switchback Railway, as shown by the white railings in the photograph above.

It is curious that these survive; in fact, whilst much wrought ironwork across Britain was removed during the Second World War in order to be melted down and re-used in the war effort, the railings which are still in situ today are actually visible on a photograph dating to the Second World War.

Look over the edge of the seawall and you will note lines of wooden stakes extending across the beach and out to sea. These are known as groyns, manmade sea defences which are intended to prevent beach erosion, although often mistakenly assumed to be historic features.

Royal Princes Parade and the Victoria Sea Defences section of seafront were opened in 1906. For further information on the history of Royal Princes Parade, see points 9-11.

Grand Pavilion (demolished) Royal Prince's Parade

If you were to stand on the site of the current fun fair and amusements on Royal Prince's Parade 100 years ago, you would be stood in the centre of Bridlington's Grand Pavilion, a feat of Edwardian Architecture which was sadly short lived.

Functioning as a theatre, the Grand Pavilion was erected in 1906 and demolished after just a few decades of use. Although plans were put forward at the end of the 1930s for a new hall to be erected on the same site, this did not come to fruition. The inevitable blocking of the open sea front views, allowed by the demolition of the original Grand Pavilion were cited as a key objection to any further building work on the site (Hull Daily Mail, 31 December 1935, 3). A new Grand Pavilion was built however in 1937 on a nearby site on the Promenade, which has now also been demolished and replaced by the Leisure Centre complex.

Fort Terrace/Fort Hall

If you stand with your back to the former Grand Pavilion (now funfair) on Royal Prince's Parade, you will see a row of terraced housing, named Fort Terrace. This may seem like an odd name for a set of Victorian terraces in the centre of Bridlington, however the area has much more intriguing origins.

The terraces in fact stand on the site of an original fort, built around 1650, and believed to be intended as a defensive measure for the bay against European war, with a potential Civil War gun battery also believed to have been sited in the immediate area.

Used up until the end of the 17th century, by 1750 the original fort had been demolished, however a later painting, now in the Sewerby Hall collection, shows that a smaller fort was potentially erected in its place on site after demolition.

Also located on the site, Fort Hall (pictured above) was built in 1792 for John Walker, later used and owned by the Graeme Family of nearby Sewerby Hall as their townhouse residence. As a key feature of the landscape and an idyllic location overlooking the sea, Fort Hall was occupied up until its demolition in 1937, to make way for the new Grand Pavilion, which sadly was very short-lived. However, in 2014, excavation works for the erection of the new leisure complex revealed a glimpse of Fort Hall once again, with substantial remains of the house's cellar still intact. Photographs from the excavation are available here.

Floral Pavilion

Continue along the promenade and you will reach the Floral Pavilion, a beautiful piece of late-Victorian/early Edwardian architecture which is still in use today as a cafe-bar.

Originally built in 1904, the building was extended shortly afterwards to include a nearby 1860's Victorian bandstand, with further alterations and rebuilding of the bandstand area in the 1960s.

The structure is Grade II Listed for its significance in representing classic seaside tourism and due to the relative scarcity of surviving Edwardian Pavilions on the English seafront.

Historic Sea Mine and Great Gale Plaque

At the entrance to the North Pier, you will note a large sea mine which was converted for use as a donations box for the Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners Royal Benevolent Society.

Founded in 1839, Shipwrecked Mariners was formed to provide financial help to previous fishermen and merchant seamen, or their families and dependants.

There are around 60 historic sea mines remaining across the UK which were originally donated to the charity by the Admiralty after they were de-commissioned post-Second World War, to be used as donation boxes.

Close to the sea mine, you will also note a large board which acts as a memorial to the Great Gale of 1871. For further information on this catastrophic event, see point 23.

Gansey Girl

At the entrance to the North Pier sits the 'Gansey Girl'. Created by artist Stephen Carvill, the bronze sculpture is based around a photograph by Frank-Meadow Sutcliffe, known for his photography of Whitby and the surrounding area.

The sculpture is inspired by the fishing families in the area, who historically wore thick hand-knitted jumpers or 'ganseys' when working out at sea to keep out the harsh weather. However, each town's gansey is slightly different; ganseys featured a different pattern of stitches which in turn denoted where you were from. It is believed that the reason for the distinctive patterns is so that the bodies of any fishermen who sadly drowned could be identified by their gansey and therefore returned to their families for burial.

Look around the base of the statue. The artist has included the names of many traditional fishing families from the area as part of the sculpture, forever immortalising their role in Bridlington's fishing heritage.

North Pier

Bridlington's piers are a key feature of the landscape of the town, and played a large part in its history. Historic England's Listing notes that the harbour was in use as far back as the early medieval period, if not before, owned by the Augustinian Friary in the early 12th century, before they were rebuilt of timber infilled with rock, and taken under crown ownership in the 16th century. Up until the 19th century, these piers were maintained as timber structures, however with constant maintenance and problems such as ship worm (a pest thought to have been brought in by trade with tropical locations which caused structural weakness by boring into submerged wooden timbers), they were replaced by stone piers in the 19th century.

If you walk to the end of the pier, you will note a large cannon, which was excavated from the North Pier and restored for the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977. Little information is available about the origin of the cannon, however it is likely to have been used as a bollard in the pier after decommission. Known as cannon bollards, these are, as the name suggests, historic cannon bodies which have been sunk into the ground for use as bollards after they were no longer required.

Used as early as the 17th century, cannon bollards are distinctive in their style, and are found across the country, with many situated across London, and even in the nearby port of Hull.

In addition to a range of other historic features including a Capstan thought to originate from an early 19th century Man-o-war, you will note the harbour light, a modern replacement of the original navigational aid which marks the entrance to the harbour.

South Pier and Fishing in Bridlington

Look across from the North Pier and you will see her twin, the South Pier, which was built in 1843 to replace the older pier which was set slightly further inland and has been extended and adapted many times. Now used largely in relation to the fishing industry, the Fish Market was added in the 20th century and was historically one of the most thriving fishing ports along this stretch of coastline, along with Flamborough which historically had two fishing fleets leaving from North and South Landing. The establishment of the railways in the 19th century meant that produce could be transported to inland towns and cities from coastal areas more easily than before, and therefore reach a larger customer base. However, it is noted by Historic England that this was a double edged sword, with larger ports such as Hull being more readily used for the trade of agricultural produce as they had bigger and better facilities

Although the fishing fleet at Bridlington is nowhere near the size it once was in the 19th and early 20th century, there is still an active fishing community in the town, with shellfish being an abundant catch around Bridlington coastline, beginning to establish itself as a large source of income after depleting fish stocks in the early 20th century led to a shift away from traditional fishing hauls. Bridlington shellfish is now traded across Europe and appears on menus much further afield than the Yorkshire coast. However, it is notable that new rulings related to the recent political upheaval of Brexit have been perceived to have had a large impact on shellfish exports, impacting the livelihoods of many fishing companies, including those operating out of the port of Bridlington.

Further information on the history of Bridlington's fishing heritage is available here from Bridlington Heritage, whilst an article by Robb Robinson from the University of Hull's Maritime Historical Studies Centre reveals more about fishing around the Holderness Coastline more widely.

Landing stage

Likely to be 19th/ 20th century in date, Crane Wharf still retains a timber landing stage which is now no longer used but survives in its historic location as a reminder of previous shipping in the area, as shown on a map of the harbour from 1890. The Listing record for the area also notes that this landing stage was likely used for tourists on boat trips to the bay.

Site of Victoria Rooms/ Original Town Hall

Parallel to the landing stage at Crane Wharf stands a modern building which contains a range of typical seaside food stands. However look closely and you will note a plaque noting that this was the original location of the Royal Victoria Rooms and Town Hall which was built in 1847 but sadly burned down almost 100 years later in 1933.

Built as Bridlington's first theatre, and later its first cinema, the Royal Victoria Rooms' tower was also used as a signalling station during the first world war.

Local resident Kathleen Hackett, a servant at the Victoria Buffet, is noted for her bravery during the fire; Kathleen climbed along the roof barefoot in order to raise the alarm and warn other staff after finding smoke in her room when the blaze started just after midnight. Katherine's actions ensured that everyone in the building, including the licensee Mr and Mrs Holland and their children were able to escape the building, and that no lives were lost when the fire took hold.

A nearby jewellers shop was also affected; a newspaper account notes that armfuls of jewellery were taken and piled in the middle of the street in order to save them from the fire, along with safes and cash registers from neighbouring properties. The fire blazed for hours, with 200,000 gallons of water noted to have been used by the fire brigade in order to get the fire under control (Yorkshire Evening Post, 22 September 1933, 16).

Tide Times

When working on the coast, it is important to check tide times beforehand. If you stop by the corner of the Maritime Museum, you will note a wooden frame, which helpfully includes both the tide times and shipping forecast for the day; presented by the Bridlington Rotary Club in 1976, the details are still updated each day!

9 Garden Walk

Walk along the edge of the harbour and you will come to a set of properties set back in a terrace. One of these properties, 9 Garden Walk, has been designated as a Grade II Listed Building . A small 17th Century Cottage, it is likely that this house was originally a fisherman's cottage due to its proximity to the harbour. You will note the pantile roof on the building; pantiles are a historic building material found across Britain, however these were particularly used in the North East and Scotland. The reason for this is somewhat unique; pantiles were brought back as ballast on ships coming into British ports from trade with Europe, which were then unloaded and used in the local area.

Yorkshire Cobles and Bridlington's Lawrence of Arabia Connection

Look closely at the harbour and you may catch a glimpse of a Yorkshire Coble, the traditional wooden fishing vessel used on the north-east coast which is now somewhat of a rarity. Strikingly different in construction and style to modern fishing boats, the coble (pronounced cobble) is thought to potentially take inspiration from Viking longships [1]. Built on an oak frame with timber panelling, the original coble was fitted with a mast and sail, before the style of fishing vessel was later adapted slightly to accommodate an engine post-Second World War, becoming larger and sturdier in construction to carry the extra weight. The Bridlington Sailing Coble Preservation Society looks after 3 traditional cobles which are permanently moored in the harbour; The Three Brothers, a 1912 coble, and The Gratitude and Gansey Lass, both newer built cobles from 1976 and 2014.

As you may notice on your way around Bridlington, there are several references and interpretation boards noting Bridlington Harbour's historic connection to Lawrence of Arabia. Known at this point as Aircraftsman Shaw, during the 1930s Lawrence spent the last months of his final RAF posting in Bridlington, over the winter of 1934-5, before his tragic death by motor accident in May 1935.

The Lawrence Complex, as it is now known, houses a range of shops including a fishing tackle store, and is located on the edge of the harbour on the site of the previous RAF Hangars, where Lawrence worked during this period, overseeing works to boats which were being fitted out for use in RAF target practice. The slipway at the side of the building is thought to be where the last known photo of Lawrence was taken.

[1] An excellent and more detailed description of the Yorkshire Coble and its construction can be found on Scarborough Maritime Heritage Centre's website.

Harbour Grotto and Anchor Point

Opposite the Lawrence Complex, you will notice a small harbour grotto with a small sign pointing out an anchor point which was used to haul sail boats out via the neighbouring slipway. A wooden post and small plaque on the wall leading down to the slipway marks the spot where lifeboats were launched with horses (similarly to Trinity Cut). The wooden post acted as a way to slow down the launch, with the rope wrapped around the post rather than directly attached between the horse and boat, reducing the chance of injury.

Bridlington Spa

Originally boasting an extensive gardens in addition to the building, Bridlington Spa was built in 1896, and is a focal point of the town both in terms of architecture and entertainment. As a key piece of seaside heritage, the Spa is reminiscent of the traditional seaside heyday experienced by many towns along the coastline of Britain.

Ravaged by fire in 1906, the theatre section of the building was rebuilt a year later, the only section of the building to survive from this time, with the rest of the complex rebuilt between the 1920s and 1930s after a second fire in 1932. A newspaper article from the time notes that the impressive glass dome, a key feature of the Royal Hall, was melted by the fire, with the hall acting as "a gigantic fireplace, with the 60 feet dome as the chimney" (Yorkshire Evening Post, 29 January 1932, 11) .

The spa has been host to many top musicians throughout its history, including David Bowie, Status Quo and Oasis. It was refurbished again between 2006-2008 after falling into a state of some disrepair, and is still hosting a range of events today.

You will note that the outer area of paving between the Spa and the RNLI Lifeboat Station is outlined in a lighter tone to the central section. This is due to the area's previous use as a seaside motor boating lake , with small mechanical boats operating until the pool was sadly infilled 6 years ago to make way for the new lifeboat station.

Look closely at the rear of the building on South Marine Drive and you will also note that there are 2 blue plaques on the corner of the Spa building, one dedicated to famed musical composer Herman Darewski, the musical director at Bridlington Spa in the early 1900s, and one to Titanic bandleader Wallace Hartley, who played at the spa during his period playing with the municipal orchestra in Bridlington. Sadly, Hartley, like many others, lost his life during the tragic sinking of the Titanic, however somewhat miraculously, the violin he was playing was saved and returned to his fiancee, who had gifted it to Wallace on their engagement. After her death, the violin was gifted to Bridlington Salvation Army, before eventually being sold into private collections, and is now on public display in a museum in the USA.

Bridlington RNLI Lifeboat Station and the Great Gale of 1871

Next to the Spa complex is the RNLI's new lifeboat station, built in 2017 to supersede the older station, still visible behind the Spa building, which was built in 1903 to replace the original 1864 lifeboat house (see point 24 for its location).

The RNLI was officially established in 1824. However, 19 years previously, Bridlington had already been given its first lifeboat, paid for by the residents, and is known as one of the first places to have a lifeboat in the country.

Over the course of its history, Bridlington RNLI has attended many fierce call outs. Perhaps one of the worst however was in 1871, when on 10 February, a huge storm on the north-east coast, or 'the great gale' as it is now known, claimed 70 lives and destroyed 30 boats. Both the Bridlington RNLI lifeboat, and the Harbinger, a private local lifeboat, were launched multiple times in order to try and save as many people as possible from wrecked ships. Although the Bridlington lifeboat managed to save the crews of 3 wrecked ships, sadly the crew of the Harbinger were lost when the boat capsized on her sixth rescue. A memorial marking the events of the great gale of 1871 is situated close to the site of the original town hall (see point 17), with a mass grave and memorial in Bridlington Priory grounds for those who lost their lives in this terrible event.

Site of the Old Lifeboat Station

Behind the Spa complex you will find the site of the 1903 Lifeboat Station. For further information on the RNLI, see point 23.

This marks the end of our Bridlington Seafront guided tour. However, if you have are in the area for a while and feel like venturing a little further afield, there are a few extra points of interest below which you may wish to visit in the Old Town area of Bridlington.

Bayle Gate

Originally built in the 14th century as a defensive entrance to Bridlington Priory, Grade I Listed Bayle Gate is situated just off Kirkgate in Old Bridlington Town.

The Bayle Gate is now used as a museum showcasing some of the local history of the area, however it has had a range of previous uses, including a garrison in the 18th century, a prison, court, and town hall.

Still housing a courtroom, the Bayle Gate is also used for meetings by the Lords Feoffees, a historic group of freeholders of land in Bridlington which originally formed after the splitting of land related to the Manor of Bridlington, dating back to 1636. For more information on the history of the Lords Feoffees and Assistants of the Manor of Bridlington, see their website .

Bridlington Priory

The Church of St Mary is all that remains of a once thriving Augustinian priory in Bridlington.

Formed in the 12th century, the priory was originally twice the size of the current church today, with a chapter house, cloisters, dormitory and infirmary, and priory hall, in addition to external farm buildings and a later choir school formed under Henry VI, all of which sadly no longer exist barring some remains of the cloisters. With part of the priory used as a parish church for community worship from its foundation, further building works took place in the 13th century to build a grander church on the site, funded by wealth gained from the monastery's involvement in the wool trade. However by the time of the Reformation and subsequent dissolution of the monasteries in the early 16th century under Henry VIII, it is noted that this church was still not complete.

By 1539, after the death of Cannon Wood for his alleged part in aiding the Pilgrimage of Grace in 1536, the monastery was destroyed on the orders of Henry VIII, leaving little but the Bayle Gate and Nave of the church standing. Restorations beginning in the mid-19th century have led to the re-use of the Priory Nave as the Church of St Mary once again for worship, with the addition of two towers to the west end of the church, reminiscent in some ways of the grandeur the site once held.

There are several interesting things to note when you visit the site, including a memorial and mass grave to those who perished in the Great Gale of 1871, along with a beautiful Lamb of God tree sculpture in the grounds. However, perhaps the strangest oddity to note is the Priory Scolds collar , which is fixed to the entrance and allegedly used to punish women who had caused offence as late as the 17th century.

Sandwith Memorial Water Fountain

Close to Grade II* Listed Avenue Hospital and associated Grade II Listed Stable block (pictured) on Westgate, is the site of a granite water fountain known locally as the Sandwith Fountain. Erected originally in a slightly different location in 1883, this water fountain is dedicated to the memory of Humphrey Sandwith, a medical military hero of the Crimean War. Sandwith was born in Bridlington in 1822 before becoming chief military medical officer for Turkish and British military during the Siege of Kars. However Sandwith was also noted to have provided medical help to the Russian forces, leading to his immediate release when captured as a prisoner of war.

The monument was originally built as a public drinking fountain intended for use by both humans and animals, before being carefully removed in 1964 when a roundabout was to be constructed. Re-erected at a different location in 1970, unfortunately the fountain was not complete with the memorial plaque it had previously held. The fountain was restored in 2019 when a new memorial plaque was added and the memorial re-dedicated by a living descendent of Humphry Sandwith. The monument was recently given Grade II Listed status in 2020 for its excellent craftsmanship and as a good example of public utilities of the period.