A Diminishing Practice: The Future of Fine Dining

A look into the history of fine dining and the impact of COVID-19 on that restaurant sector.

The History of Fine Dining

The First Restaurants

Although it may be hard to imagine a world without restaurants, they are a relatively contemporary innovation, dating back to less than 300 years ago. The first restaurants are said to have been established in the 1760s in Paris as bouillon shops. From there, other options were added to the menus, thus becoming some of the first Parisian restaurants. However, it was not until after the French Revolution that restaurants really began to take off. Professional chefs of aristocratic households were left without jobs, turning to newly opened restaurants (coming from the French work "restaurer", meaning to "restore"), they laid the foundation for modern-day restaurants.

Auguste Escoffier & The Transformation of Restaurants

Auguste Escoffier in 1913

"Above all, keep it simple" - Auguste Escoffier


French chef, restaurateur, and culinary writer, Auguste Escoffier transformed restaurants into the well-respected establishments that we know them to be today. Escoffier began his career in restaurants at the young age of 13 as an apprentice in his uncle's restaurant, he quickly rose up the ladder and became known as "The Chef of Kings and The King of Chefs". At the height of his career in 1890, Escoffier partnered with Swiss hotelier César Ritz at the Grand Hotel of Monte Carlo to offer gourmet dining and luxury accommodations all in one place. This partnership along with his time as chef at the Savoy Hotel in London solidified Escoffier as a top contributor to the restaurant industry.

Escoffier is also credited as the Father of Haute Cuisine. Prior to his contributions, haute cuisine (also known as grande cuisine) recipes were often covered with an excess amount of sauces and garnishes which overpowered the dish's main ingredients. Escoffier's motto of "above all, keep it simple" called for the simplification of French cuisine; this meant lighter sauces, less dishes served during a meal, and an emphasis on seasonal ingredients.

However, his innovations did not stop there. In 1899, Escoffier introduced a new menu concept which is now used in fine dining restaurants all across the world: a la carte. Instead of choosing from a pre-made list of courses, this new approach to menuing allowed diners to select their choice of individual dishes. During that same year, Escoffier created the Brigade system of kitchen organization which established different work stations, each station was responsible for a specific part of the menu or a specific type of food in order to increase efficiency in the kitchen. This is where terms such as Saucier (sauces) and Poissonier (fish) were first created.

Escoffier's revolutionary contributions to the culinary field are endless and can continue to be seen in the top fine dining restaurants across the globe.

The Globalization of Fine Dining

Restaurants like those found in France were quickly established in other countries around the world during the nineteenth century. Known as "ristorante" in Italy and the English name "restaurant" in Great Britain and the United States, restaurants were created tailored to the customer needs specific to each location. Fine dining restaurants in particular took well to large urban populations who had the disposable income necessary to dine at these establishments. With that in mind, it is no surprise that the first fine dining restaurant in the United States was established in New York City, the most populous city in the country.

Delmonico's Steak House opened in NYC in 1837 near Wall Street, nearly 200 years later it remains in the same location. What began as a small shop which sold pastries, chocolate, coffee, bonbons, wines, and liquors, is now Wall Street's premiere fine dining restaurant known for inventing the Delmonico steak, Eggs Benedict, Baked Alaska, Lobster Newburg, and Chicken A la Keene.

The Michelin Guide

The first Michelin Guide (1900) to the latest (2020)

There are many factors that distinguish a regular restaurant from a fine dining establishment. From the ambiance to the high quality multi-course meals designed to not only taste spectacular but to be pleasing to the eyes as well, fine dining is an all around luxury experience. But how do we decide which fine dining restaurants are amongst the best of the best?

In 1900, the first Michelin Guide which included a list of restaurant recommendations was published in France by the Michelin brand as a way to get people traveling further distances by car so that there would be a reason for them to buy Michelin tires. Starting in 1926, the guide began to include Michelin star ratings which awarded a single star to restaurants in France for being a fine dining eatery. This rating system later developed into a three star system with one star meaning "High quality cooking, worth a stop!", two stars meaning "Excellent cooking, worth a detour!", and finally the highest honor, three stars meaning "Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey!".

The Michelin Guide rating system has become a highly competitive award for the world's top chefs. Although stars are not easy to receive and are based on a number of critiques, with a star comes great prestige, exposure, and authenticity as one of the best fine dining establishments in the world.

Summary Videos

How The Restaurant Business Was Invented?

How Michelin Became The World's Fine Dining Authority


Impact of COVID-19

The restaurant industry has been one of the hardest hit industries by the COVID-19 pandemic. In March 2020, restaurants across the United States were forced to close their doors in order to slow the spread of the disease. While some restaurants continued to thrive off of their take-out and delivery systems, others which relied on the experience of indoor dining, such as fine dining, were left wondering how and when they would be able to open their doors again.

According to the Golden Gate Restaurant Association (GGRA), although many fine dining restaurants have attempted to establish temporary food delivery and take-out options, they continue to lose millions in revenue. Despite their best attempts, fine dining restaurants across the country have had to make the hard decision of closing their doors permanently once they realized delivery and take-out operations could not sustain them throughout the pandemic. This includes fine dining staples like Gotham Bar & Grill and The Paris Cafe in NYC as well as McCrady's in Charleston, NC.

In addition to forced closures, a dive in consumer spending due to stay-at-home orders has also been detrimental to the fine-dining sector. As restaurants begin to slowly reopen their doors for outdoor and indoor dining, the new challenge is getting guests to come back and feel comfortable dining outside of their homes once again.


Looking to the Future

Is this the end of fine-dining? Not Likely

The restaurant industry is slowly but surely coming back up, however, with unemployment at an all-time low, reduced consumer spending, and continuous safety concerns, professionals worry that this could mean the end of fine-dining. The question of: what will fine dining look like with COVID-19? continues to be up in the air. For long-time industry professionals, like co-owner of Canlis (one of Seattle's top fine-dining restaurants) Mark Canlis, the answer seems obvious, "fine dining is not what people need right now". However, current findings prove otherwise.

Although restaurant dining may look a bit different due to COVID-19 guidelines, fine-dining establishments which have already reopened their doors with limited capacity reported that reservations have been filling up quickly. Whether this can be attributed to wealthy consumers looking to spend their money or simply due to customers' eagerness to get out of their homes, it does not seem like fine-dining will become obsolete anytime soon.

As restaurants continue to find new ways to reimagine their operations to make the most out of our current situation, fine-dining has the opportunity to revamp its image and make itself more attractive to younger generations.

A New Way of Dining

Stylistic plating vs. boxing for easy transportation

While restaurants with pre-established systems for delivery and take-out continued to prosper, developing these systems for fine dining restaurants proved to be a challenge. Fine-dining relies on its intimate atmosphere, multi-course meals, and artistic plating, how can the same experience be delivered through take-out options?

Top fine-dining restaurant across the country have reimagined their operations in a number of ways to offer the best fine-dining experience possible while living in a pandemic world. From park-and-dine experiences to "drive-throughs" created in parking lots, restaurateurs are committed to keeping fine-dining alive. One way fine dining establishments have changed their usual operations to accommodate for take-out and delivery is by scaling down their menus to incorporate dishes that are more portable. A large concern for fine-dining chefs is transporting orders from the restaurant to customers' homes without ruining the quality of the food, which is why take-out and delivery were previously not an option at most luxury restaurants. However, by redesigning their menus to include less complex dishes, chefs have been able to overcome this obstacle.

Check out below how one restaurant has adapted to COVID-19 guidelines.

Canlis - "Seattles's landmark fine dining destination"

Canlis restaurant in Seattle has created a reputation for itself as a premiere fine dining establishment for almost 70 years.

When the pandemic first hit Seattle, the restaurant decided to close its doors. Six days later, the restaurant had completely transformed its operations to include covid-friendly services. The first of those services was a drive through set up at the entrance of the restaurant.

Another way Canlis kept the spirit of their restaurant alive was by setting up a week-long schedule of drive-in movies to be played in their parking lot with the option of purchasing food and beverages.

Watch this video to learn more about Canlis


Conclusion

While fine dining post-covid will surely look different, this restaurant sector is far from becoming outdated. Innovations continue to be made to the fine-dining experience by top chefs around the world. The COVID-19 pandemic has forced fine dining restaurants to either reimagine their brands and operations or to be driven out of business. Those who have taken on the challenge have been able to successfully establish themselves as a force to be reckoned with in the fine-dining world. As the pandemic continues to present new obstacles for the fine-dining industry, the best restaurants can do is be flexible with their operations and be ready (and willing) to adapt to any new changes that may come up.

A fine-dining dish designed to be pleasing to the eyes

Works Cited

“ An Escoffier Biography.” Les Amis D'Escoffier Society of New York, www.escoffier-society.com/biography.php.

“About Delmonicos.” Delmonicos Steak House, 19 Feb. 2020, www.delmonicos.com/about/.

Dominko, Mura. “15 Famous Restaurants That Closed Permanently.” Eat This Not That, Eat This Not That, 17 Oct. 2020, www.eatthis.com/popular-restaurants-permanently-closing-coronavirus/.

Gillison, Samantha. “Is the Coronavirus the End for Fancy Restaurants - and the Start of a New Dining Era?” NBCNews.com, NBCUniversal News Group, 4 June 2020, www.nbcnews.com/think/opinion/coronavirus-end-fancy-restaurants-start-new-dining-era-ncna1212181.

International Culinary Center. “What Are Michelin Stars?” Institute of Culinary Education, Institute of Culinary Education, 9 Apr. 2016, www.ice.edu/blog/michelin-stars.

McCarthy, Kelly. “'We Don't Need Fine Dining Right Now': What Chefs Are Doing amid COVID Pandemic.” ABC News, ABC News Network, 24 May 2020, abcnews.go.com/Business/fine-dining-now-chefs-amid-covid-pandemic/story?id=70788179.

Mealey, Lorri. “How the French Revolution Gave Us Fine Dining.” The Balance Small Business, 17 Oct. 2019, www.thebalancesmb.com/the-history-of-restaurants-part-2-2888665.

Olmos, Dori. “From Park-and-Dines to New Menus: How Fine-Dining Restaurants Are Adjusting during COVID-19.” Ksdk.com, KSDK, 11 Sept. 2020, www.ksdk.com/article/entertainment/dining/abby-eats-st-louis/fine-dining-restaurants-adjust-coronavirus-pandemic/63-ab0face5-1a5c-4e2e-b141-e6c8c5103246.

“Our History: Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts.” Escoffier, Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts , 11 Nov. 2020, www.escoffier.edu/about/history-and-timeline/.

Roos, Dave. “When Did People Start Eating in Restaurants?” History.com, A&E Television Networks, 18 May 2020, www.history.com/news/first-restaurants-china-france.

“What The MICHELIN Guide's Symbols Mean.” MICHELIN Guide, Michelin Group, guide.michelin.com/th/en/to-the-stars-and-beyond-th.

Wright, Jason. “The History of Fine Dining.” Alchemy, Alchemy Cafe, 10 June 2013, alchemymarket.com/articles/fine-dining/.

Xie, Qin. “How 7 Restaurants Around the World Are Reimagining Fine Dining in the COVID Era.” Travel + Leisure, 16 Sept. 2020, www.travelandleisure.com/food-drink/restaurants/how-fine-dining-is-changing-amid-covid. 

Auguste Escoffier in 1913

The first Michelin Guide (1900) to the latest (2020)

Stylistic plating vs. boxing for easy transportation

A fine-dining dish designed to be pleasing to the eyes