Flamborough
Lifeboats, Defence and Chalk Cliffs
Our self-guided Low Tide Trails can be followed virtually as well as physically. If you do go for a physical walk using our trail as a guide you are responsible for your own welfare and safety. MOLA/CITiZAN cannot accept any liability for injury/damage/trespass as a result.
Stay safe and where necessary ensure social distancing. Also adhere to local COVID-19 restrictions and current government guidance. We encourage you to enjoy the coastline digitally, through our website and social media.
Flamborough Head is a chalk promontory that juts out into the North sea. Sitting at the Northern extent of the Holderness Coast, Flamborough Head gives amazing views across the Holderness Coast to the South and Filey Bay to the North. Flamborough is also where you can find some fascinating coastal archaeology.
Flamborough Head has seen much defensive activity over the last 4,000 years. From the construction of Danes Dyke in the Middle Bronze Age (3,600 years ago); through to extensive fortification during the Second World War. The area retains many of its defences which can still be seen today.
Flamborough Head is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a conservation area. Excavation and unauthorised clearance of vegetation is illegal without proper authority to do so.
Flamborough Head was also home to two Lifeboat stations, which helped to protect sailors from the often dangerous waters around Flamborough head.
This Low Tide Trail is rated as Moderate and may include uneven surfaces, some steep paths and open country. Walking boots and warm, waterproof clothing are recommended. Most paths are clearly defined. Walking boots are recommended.
This route runs for 7 miles (11 km) and will take between 3-4 hours to complete. This Low Tide Trail can be carried out in sections if required.
Please help us by rating this virtual Low Tide Trail!
Introduction
This route consists of 21 points (including this one), starting at North Landing and ending in the centre of Flamborough village.
Flamborough No.1 lifeboat station
Starting at North Landing carpark look North-East into the North Landing. Below you will see the former Lifeboat station, concrete slipway for launching the lifeboat and the associated winding house.
This stretch of coast was particularly hazardous to sailing ships and the local Lifeboat crews of Flamborough Head saved many lives.
The North Landing Lifeboat station was built in 1871 and was one of two such stations covering Flamborough Head. Two Lifeboat stations were built on Flamborough Head to allow at least one lifeboat to launch, in bad weather conditions and depending which way the wind was blowing. This was essential in the days when lifeboats didn't have an engine and were moved by the crew rowing.
Film footage of the final launching of the North Bay lifeboat can be found on the Yorkshire Film Archive website-
North Landing Fishing Industry
Flamborough's fishing fleet operated out of North Landing for centuries. Today, only a handful of Yorkshire cobles still operate out of the North landing.
A film of fishing from North Bay in 1933 can be found on the Yorkshire Film Archive website here-
Promontory Fort
Flamborough Head also reveals evidence for much earlier fortification.
You should now see Breil Nook promontory fort, an Iron Age (2,800 years ago) defensive feature. This type of site is almost exclusively found in the coastal zone; utilising a promontory with a sheer cliff edge to create a defensive enclosure, or fort. Using such coastal features reduces the need to excavate extensive defensive ditches and uses the defensive benefit provided by the natural topography.
Aerial photographs of Breil Nook clearly show the defensive bank and ditch that sealed the promontory.
A 20th century (1800-1900) Coastguard and Signal station also occupied this promontory and is visible on the 1971 Ordnance Survey map.
Infantry Pillbox
This is one of several Second World War era infantry pillboxes in the Flamborough area.
Constructed from May 1940 and finally declared obsolete in 1942; pillboxes were initially the mainstay of the 1940s anti-invasion defences.
Flamborough’s wartime defences were part of the Coastal Crust defence scheme. Devised by General Edmund Ironside, Commander in Chief Home Forces from 25 May to 19 July 1940, this extensive network of coastal defences stretched from Edinburgh, along the East coast and onto the South coast as far as Cornwall.
Although you may think the cliffs would have made an invasion force landing here impossible, the small bays of Flamborough would have been perfect for landing small diversionary raids and sabotage parties. The cliffs of Flamborough would have also been constantly patrolled by the defending infantry formations.
This type of pillbox, known colloquially as a ‘lozenge’ pillbox even though it isn't lozenge shaped, could house up to 8 soldiers (an infantry section), but it is most likely to have been used just by a Bren Light Machine Gun team, made up of 3 soldiers.
Pillboxes on the Yorkshire coast were often camouflaged with a covering of turf. Can you spot any other pillboxes nearby?
You can find out more about this pillbox design HERE
Machine Gun Pillbox
The second type of pillbox often found on the Yorkshire coast are these machine gun pillboxes.
Capable of housing two water-cooled Vickers Medium Machine Guns, these pillboxes were often sited to cover the length of a beach, or beach exits, with concentrated heavy fire. This fire would have been augmented by supporting infantry in nearby slit trenches and weapon pits.
The machine gun pillboxes overlooking Selwicks Bay are unusual in that they have been sited above the beach. Often these pillboxes are sited on the beach, just above the high water mark. High tides and the compact nature of Selwicks Bay would have made these pillboxes unusable. By positioning them on the cliff above they would have been able to fire on any enemy soldiers leaving the beach, taking full effect of the Vickers Machine Gun’s long range fire.
What do you notice about the entrances to the machine gun pillbox?
You can find out more about this pillbox design HERE
Selwicks Bay and the Galway Lass
Several ships have run aground in Selwicks Bay over the years.
On 14 October 1875 the Galway Lass, sailing from Sunderland to Dieppe with a cargo of coal, got into difficulty off Flamborough Head. While sailing past Filey Brigg, the wind suddenly changed, sending the vessel towards the rocky foreshore. The Galway Lass ran aground in Selwicks Bay, breaking up soon after she struck.
All eight crew members were killed, their bodies washing up along the Flamborough coastline over the following days.
You can find out more about the Galway Lass through the Lloyds Heritage and Education centre's archive. The Lloyd's register is a valuable resource to archaeologists researching and trying to identify wrecks on the coast.
Flamborough New Lighthouse
Flamborough Lighthouse dominates the local skyline. Constructed in 1806, this is the second lighthouse built on the headland. This example was designed by Samuel Wyatt and built by John Matson of Bridlington, who reputedly completed work in 9 months without the use of a scaffold. At 87 feet high the lighthouse was raised in 1925.
Chain Home Low Radar site
The field next to Flamborough lighthouse was the site of an early Second World War RAF Chain Home Low station. Opened on 12 February 1940, this radar site was established to identify and track low flying enemy aircraft approaching the coast across the North Sea.
This location proved less than ideal for a Chain Home Low station; the elevation of this site was to low to operate the radar efficiently. The CHL radar was moved several miles up the coast to Bempton, where the radar station operated until 1972.
Operation Diver Battery
The field also contains the remains of two temporary anti-aircraft battery constructed in 1944 as part of Operation Diver. In an attempt to counter the new threat from V1 flying bombs, thousands of anti-aircraft guns were placed on the coast to intercept the incoming ‘doodlebugs’.
The batteries known as BJ and BJ1 were operated by 416 Battery of 173 Anti Aircraft Artillery Regiment, each consisted of four 3.7-inch Mark IIc guns each, which could fire on aircraft flying as high as 32,000ft (9km). The total of 8 guns on this site would have been a formidable defence against the low flying V1 bombs which were expected to be launched over the North sea.
The site is a Scheduled Monument and one of the most complete examples of a late Second World Diver battery in the country. Please note that the site is private property and not accessible to members of the public.
The long banks and ditches in this field are the remains of Medieval ridge and furrow. Created by the ploughing of open fields by teams of Oxen; this distinctive backwards ‘S’ shaped earthwork can be seen across the Flamborough headland.
Coastguard Station
Flamborough Coastguard station is another part of Flamborough's important role in ensuring safety at sea. From this location, the Coastguard has a panoramic view across the North Sea.
A Lloyd's Signal Station is marked nearby on the 1953 OS maps. These signal stations were key to communication between ships and land, allowing ship owners to relay orders to their crews via telegraph.
Coastguard Cottages
This row of cottages was built to house the local Coastguard and their families. The Coastguard station can be seen across the road to the North.
Flamborough Old Lighthouse
Built in 1674, the Old Flamborough lighthouse is one of the most complete 17th century (1600-1700) lighthouses in the country.
Originally constructed as a business venture, the private lighthouse proved uneconomical to run as donations from passing shipping were not forthcoming (!). As a result the lighthouse was never lit.
The lighthouse saw use as a marine telegraph station up until the early 1900s.
You may like to consult the CITiZAN interactive map for information about several sites along the way to South Landing, including Bronze Age barrows and a possible Neolithic flint industry site.
Bronze Age Flamborough
Flamborough Head was particularly active during the Bronze Age period. Danes Dyke, a prominent Middle Bronze Age defensive ditch, is the largest surviving Bronze Age earthwork surviving on Flamborough Head. This impressive defensive ditch turned Flamborough into a substantial promontory fort.
Several tumuli are shown on the old OS maps in the fields of Flamborough. Today, many of these tumuli have been ploughed out through farming.
Map: Yorkshire CXXIX.13 (inset CXXIX.14), Revised: 1909, Published: 1910
Site of Limekiln
Limekilns are commonly found on the coast. This is usually because it was easier to transport the materials needed to produce lime by sea.
There are several Lime Kilns noted on the old OS maps for Flamborough.
Flamborough sits on a ready supply of limestone, which could easily be quarried as one of the key ingredients for lime production.
It is likely that these lime kilns were producing quick lime for use in local agriculture, as well as within the construction of local buildings.
Map: Yorkshire CXXIX.13 (inset CXXIX.14), Revised: 1909, Published: 1910
Views Across the Holderness Coast
From here you get a really good view across the Holderness coast. In the distance you will see the coastal town and resort of Bridlington.
The Holderness coast is one of the fastest eroding coastlines in the country, with around 1m lost annually.
South Landing Lifeboat Station No.2
This was the site of the South Landing Lifeboat Station No.2. The original lifeboat station was built in 1871 in response to the "Tenth of February Gale". The present station was built in 1993 and features bricks from the earlier lifeboat station.
The Tenth of February Gale of 1871 was a freak weather event that led to the loss of many lives and ships. During the severe ice storm, many vessels sought refuge in North and South landing.
As the storm increased, crews started to deliberately ground themselves in an attempt to save their ships. Many ships started to break up up the extreme waves that broke on the shore.
The local RNLB lifeboat Robert Whitworth was bravely launched from Bridlington into the storm. After rescuing several crew members, the weather became so bad that the lifeboat was withdrawn from service. Tragically, the fisherman's lifeboat Harbinger, overturned in the storm killing 9 of its crew.
The next day, the coast was littered with smashed ship's timbers, wrecks and cargo.
It is estimated that around 50 people lost their lives at sea during the storm, with 28 ships being wrecked. Bodies were still being washed up on the local beaches over a fortnight after the great gale.
The bodies of many of those that lost their lives were buried at Bridlington's Priory Church. A monument to mark the burial site was constructed by public subscription.
The South Landing Lifeboat station was closed in 1934 due to increased efficiency of motorised boats. Flamborough No 1 station had acquired such a motorised boat that same year.
In 1993, the RNLI built a new boathouse over the site of the South Landing lifeboat station, which caused the permanent closure of the North Landing lifeboat station. The two stations operated together for 67 years and had saved over 540 lives.
Above a doorway in a new extension of the lighthouse are situated brick with graffiti of previous lifeboat men's names. They are incredibly difficult to read and it is possible one is upside down. Can you read any of the names?
Footage of the old Lifeboat station in 1956-
Seaplane Slipway
South Landing was used as an auxiliary landing site for seaplanes during the First World War. These auxiliary landing sites were to be used by pilots in an emergency, for example if they got into difficulty due to technical failure or changes in the weather.
The South Landing site consisted of a slipway and temporary buildings where aircraft could be stored and repaired and the pilots seek refuge.
This auxiliary station was set up to support the Royal Navy Air Station at Hornsea Mere. The seaplanes operating from Hornsea were tasked with patrolling the North sea, ensuring shipping using the East Coast War Channel were kept as safe as possible.
East Coast War Channel , established during the First World War, was a shipping lane that was kept clear of mines and u-boats to ensure safe passage of shipping on the east coast.
Medieval Pier/Breakwater
Heading eastwards along the cobble beach you may spot a line of boulders which seem out of place. This is likely to be the remains of a 16th century pier. Although a pier at South Landing was mentioned in the area circa 1400, this was likely made of wood and destroyed in 1551. The pier was rebuilt again around 1562, but destroyed a second time in c.1569. After this, the local fishermen gave up rebuilding their pier!
The remains of the pier present today are likely the remains of this second stone built pier. Allegedly this is pier that Mary Queen of Scots anchored at in August 1561, on her way from France to claim the throne of Scotland. What remains of the pier now are two lines of large, glacial erratic stones. This feature was archaeologically recorded in the 1980s, but due to the risk erosion and severe storms continued monitoring is required.
Galway Lass Crew Grave
Here we find the memorial to the crew of the Galway Lass. The people of Flamborough raised the money for the funerals of all eight members of the Galway Lass’s crew. The crew are still remembered by the village to this day.
Medieval Defended Manorhouse
The tower in this field is the remains of the 14th century fortified manor house. Extensive earthworks survive in this field as well.
The manor was owned by the Constables, an important local landowning family during the Medieval period.
The most famous member of the Constable family was Sir Robert Constable. In 1537, Constable was found guilty of treason for his involvement in the Pilgrimage of Grace, a direct challenge to Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries. Constable was executed and his body was hung from Beverley Gate in Hull. The Constable's land was snatched by the crown and shortly after the Flamborough manor fell into disrepair.
When viewed in its wider context, the defended manor sits within a relict Medieval landscape with clues that can be seen across Flamborough Head.
Enjoy Flamborough
This marks the end of this Low Tide Trail. There is plenty to explore and learn about in Flamborough, so why not see what you can see on our CITiZAN app .
You can get involved with CITiZAN by registering at citizan.org.uk