Fire in the Jemez Mountains

Bandelier National Monument & USGS New Mexico Landscapes Field Station

Bright orange flames burn along the bases of pine trees. Clouds of smoke rise above the silhouettes of the trees, and a full moon shines through clouds.

The Jemez Mountains

The Jemez Mountains are a diverse mountain range located in north-central New Mexico. The mountains were formed by volcanic eruptions, the remnants of which can be seen as the Valles Caldera. The Jemez Mountains landscape contains Bandelier National Monument, Santa Fe National Forest, Native American Pueblo lands, and Valles Caldera National Preserve. This beautiful ecosystem is also home to many plants and wildlife that have evolved with fire, including the endangered Jemez Mountains salamander that is only found here.

A child holding binoculars stands in a large open field covered in green and gray grasses and ringed by low mountains. The sky is blue and filled with clouds.
A child holding binoculars stands in a large open field covered in green and gray grasses and ringed by low mountains. The sky is blue and filled with clouds.

Valle Grande in the center of the Jemez Mountains in the Valles Caldera National Preserve.

Jemez Mountain Flora and Fauna

Click through the slides to learn more about wildlife in the Jemez Mountains.

Ponderosa Pine

Ponderosa (Pinus ponderosa) is a fire-loving tree species. Ponderosa pine forests historically burned frequently (5 - 15 years, on average) in the Jemez Mountains. If you get close, a ponderosa's bark smells like vanilla or butterscotch.

A grove of many tall, straight pine trees.

Mountain Lions

Mountain lions (Puma concolor) are native to all of the Americas and can be found roaming the Jemez Mountains.

A close up of a mountain lion face.

Jemez Mountains Salamander

The endangered Jemez Mountains salamander (Plethodon neomexicanus) breathes through its skin, and as its name suggests, is only found in the Jemez Mountains.

A tan and reddish salamander with gold flecks sits on a log.

Rocky Mountain Iris

Rocky Mountain iris (Iris missouriensis) is native to the Jemez Mountains and can be found flowering in late spring.

Elk

Groups of elk (Cervus canadensis) can be seen grazing throughout the Jemez Mountains. In 1948, elk from Yellowstone National Park were reintroduced into the Jemez Mountains.

Mexican Spotted Owl

The endangered Mexican spotted owl (Strix occidentalis lucida) is one of the largest owls in North America and they can be found through out the Jemez Mountains.

Prickly Pear Cactus

Prickly Pear (Opuntia sp.) is found in warm and dry areas of the Jemez Mountains. The pad of the cactus, as well as the fruit, is edible.

New Mexico Meadow Jumping Mouse

The endangered New Mexico meadow jumping mouse (Zapus hudsonius luteus) makes its home near streams and wetlands in the Jemez Mountains.

Gunnison Prairie Dogs

Gunnison prairie dogs (Cynomys gunnisoni) can be found barking in the grasslands of the Valles Caldera.

Diverse Land Jurisdictions of the Jemez Mountains

Click on the names of landowners below to zoom to their boundaries

Pueblos - , and .

The Jemez Mountains have been home to many groups of Pueblo people for hundreds of years. Ancestral Puebloans lived throughout Bandelier National Monument and the surrounding area. Their present-day descendants still live in and adjoining the Jemez landscape, in the Pueblos of  Jemez ,  Cochiti ,  Santa Clara , San Ildefonso, Zia, Santa Ana, San Felipe, Santo Domingo, Ohkay Owingeh and Tesuque. 

National Park Service -

 Bandelier National Monument  protects over 33,000 acres of rugged but beautiful canyon and mesa country as well as evidence of a human presence here going back over 11,000 years. Petroglyphs, dwellings carved into the soft rock cliffs, and standing masonry walls pay tribute to the early days of a culture that still survives in the surrounding communities.

National Park Service -

 Valles Caldera National Preserve  is located in the Jemez Mountains. The 88,900-acre preserve encompasses almost all of the volcanic caldera created by a spectacular volcanic eruption about 1.25 million years ago.

U.S. Forest Service -

 The Santa Fe National Forest  was designated in 1915 and spans 1,558,452 acres in Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the Jemez Mountains. This vast forest has a rich story of dramatic changes in fire.

Department of Energy -

 Los Alamos National Laboratory  has a Forest Health Program to protect valuable resources on their property within the Jemez Mountains. They often work in collaboration with the Santa Fe National Forest and Bandelier National Monument.

Fire Ecology

For thousands of years, frequent fire has been an important process for ecosystems in the Jemez Mountains; we know this through analysis of charcoal from deep sediment cores and fire scars recorded in tree-ring samples. The effects of lightning fires or indigenous burning varied across the different ecosystems along the elevation gradient, but played a key role in local ecosystems. For example, repeated, low-severity fire in the ponderosa pine and mixed conifer forests maintained these ecosystems by reducing fuels, like dead leaves, needles, branches, and grasses. This kept fire intensity low, so most large trees survived. This also kept the forests open through the thinning of small trees, which promoted grass and forbs in the spaces between trees.

Ignition Sources

There are two common ignition sources of local wildfires. Click through the slides below to learn more about how wildfires start.

Lightning

Lightning is an abundant ignition source in the Jemez Mountains during the  summer monsoon  and starts many fires, especially during drought years.

A lightning streaks across a hazy purple sky. Small coniferous trees are seen in the foreground and mountains are seen behind the lightning.

People

Native people in the Jemez Mountains used fire for centuries. In modern times, intentional burning of forests through prescribed burns, as well as unplanned ignitions from escaped campfires or sparked by trees falling on electrical lines are all types of human-caused fires.

A close up of a campfire with several large logs and golden flames.

Large, Hot, Recent Fires

If fires have burned in the Jemez for centuries to millennia, then why are we seeing huge modern fires that are wiping out entire forests? To understand modern fire, we must first understand the history of fire and that humans have excluded fire for the last 120 years.

Widespread overgrazing stopped fires

With the local arrival of railroads in the late 1800s, immense numbers of grazing animals such as cows, sheep, and goats were introduced into our ecosystems to feed on the then abundant grasses. These grasses are what historically carried frequent and widespread, low-intensity, surface fires, because grasses burn easily at low temperatures. This supported large fires that burned up fallen branches, leaves, and needles, but were not hot enough to kill most mature trees. Once overgrazed by the introduced domestic livestock by about 1900, there was no longer sufficient grass cover to support extensive surface fires.

Click to move the slider arrow side to side over the repeat photos from 1935 (overgrazed) and 2001 (no grazing) to see the influence of overgrazing.

Side by side black and white images of an open meadow ringed by low mountains show the effects of sheep grazing. In the older photo, sheep cross a muddy stream bank with no grass. Little to no grass can be seen in the photo. The later photo shows a lush grassland. Slight breaks in the grass indicate that the stream bank now has grass growing on it.

Sheep grazing Bond Ranch, Valle Grande, Northern New Mexico 1935 and 2001.

Fire Exclusion

Without fire, forest densities and fuel loads have increased, as fire removes the buildup of these fuels. Ladder fuels, like over-abundant young trees that carry surface fires into the canopies, have also increased without regular burns, resulting in large crown fires that kill most trees across large areas.

A poster of Smokey Bear holding a shovel says: Follow Smokey's ABC's..."Always hold matches 'til cold, Be sure to drown all fires, Crush all smokes dead out," followed by "Please! only you can prevent forest fires!"

Smokey Bear Poster

Fire Suppression and Smokey Bear

The introduction of fire suppression and Smokey Bear turned the public against wildland fires and created a stigma around forest fires, even though natural frequent fires are ecologically beneficial. Fires were suppressed as soon as they were discovered. The consequence of keeping fires small resulted in a buildup of fuels that were available to burn during the hottest and driest conditions. In these conditions, fires spread quickly, are hard to stop, and do the most damage. This failed logic has contributed to where we are today, with historically-unprecedented large, high-severity fires killing large swaths of forest.

Modern Fire in the Jemez

Learn more about modern fire over 10,000 acres in the Jemez. Click on the underlined fire names below to zoom in to that fire boundary. Click on the underlined name again to zoom out.

La Mesa Fire - 1977

The started on June 16, 1977 from a human cause--likely a spark from a motorcycle. The fire burned 15,444 acres and was the first modern fire to burn large patches of tree-killing fire in the eastern Jemez before it was contained.

A black and white photo of a wildland firefighter using a shovel while working on the La Mesa Fire. Other firefighters are seen hiking and working in the background.

Wildland fire fighters working on the La Mesa Fire.

Dome Fire - 1996

The started on April 26, 1996 from an escaped campfire; 17,000 acres burned in total, including parts of Bandelier and Dome Wilderness and Capulin Canyon.

A large cloud of smoke rises above a street and a group of buildings.

The Dome Fire seen from Los Alamos National Lab.

Cerro Grande Fire - 2000

The started May 4, 2000 as a prescribed burn that escaped control; it burned over 42,000 acres, including 400 homes in Los Alamos, as well as parts of Los Alamos National Laboratory.

A clump of trees burns orange, creating a large cloud of smoke. The sky is filled with smoke.

View of the Cerro Grande Fire.

South Fork Fire - 2010

burned 17,000 acres in June 2010.

Smoke rises above a ridgeline. Behind the smoke is a cloudy blue sky.

Smoke from the first day of the South Fork Fire.

Las Conchas Fire - 2011

started June 26, 2011 when strong winds blew over an aspen tree onto a power line. This fire burned 43,000 acres in just the first 14 hours, spreading almost an acre a second. 

At the time, Las Conchas was the largest modern-era fire in New Mexico, burning 156,000 acres total. 

A mushroom cloud of smoke rises high in the sky above a mountain range.

The Las Conchas fire as seen from Santa Fe.

Thompson Ridge Fire - 2013

was another fire caused by a downed power line. It started on May 31, 2013 and burned 24,000 acres.

Smoke engulfs the ski behind the entrance sign of the Valles Caldera. A dry grassy meadow covers the ground.

View of the Thompson Ridge Fire from the Valles Caldera entrance.

Cerro Pelado Fire - 2022

started April 22, 2022 from an unknown source. It burned 45,605 acres, the majority of which was in the 2011 Las Conchas Fire scar. 

A band of smoke rises in the sky behind pine trees and a grassy meadow. Blue sky can be seen above the smoke. 

Smoke from the Cerro Pelado Fire on April 23, 2022

Moderate and High-Severity Fire

Large areas in these modern fires are killing all the trees as they burn with moderate to high intensity. High-severity fire does more than just kill trees; there are also post-fire effects that influence the surrounding ecosystem, like floods.

An area of high severity burn shows a landscape of burnt tree trunks where there was once forest.

Areas that burn with high severity have few live trees remaining

The red areas in the map show the cumulative tree-killing moderate and high-severity fire in the Jemez over the past 50 years. Much of that occurred in the Las Conchas Fire (the orange polygon).

A view of a once-forested area that has been severely burned. Where there were once trees, the area now looks like a field of burnt sticks.

An area that burned at high severity during the Las Conchas Fire

Modern Post-Fire Floods

Up to four years after a wildfire we see a high probability of post-fire debris flows, which are powerful mixtures of water, soil, rocks, and logs. Trees hold soil in place with their roots, while live and dead plant cover slows the flow of precipitation to the ground, allowing the water to be absorbed. When severe fires consume vegetation cover there is nothing left to hold the soil in place. In addition, the intense heat from the fire makes the soil surface impermeable to rain, increasing the chance of intense flooding events. Check out the video of flooding in Santa Clara Pueblo after the Las Conchas Fire.

Santa Clara Pueblo Post Las Conchas Flood Event 2013.

To learn more about the post-Las Conchas Fire flooding in Santa Clara, check out  the PBS news hour story .

Bandelier was also hit with three major post Las Conchas Fire floods

Post flood impacts in Bandelier National Monument post Las Conchas fire.

Losing the Forests

After modern high-severity fires, ponderosa pine forests are being replaced by Gambel oak and New Mexico locust. This conversion is taking place on a large scale due to the high tree mortality that comes with large, hot modern fires. Rising global temperatures also means that areas once suitable for these forests are no longer hospitable for conifer regeneration, and thus likely will remain shrubland for the foreseeable future -- not just in our lifetimes but possibly for a century or more.

On a hillside, small shrubby oak encroaches on what was once ponderosa stands.

Gambel oak replaces ponderosa forests following high-severity fire.

Historical Fire

Have fires in the Jemez Mountains always been this large and hot? By studying tree rings, scientists can look at historical fires and compare them to modern fires. Reconstructing historical fire regimes helps us understand how prevalent fire was in the area before fire suppression.

A close up of a ponderosa pine tree rings has a variety of thick and thin rings creating a striping pattern.

A close up of the rings from a ponderosa pine from the Jemez Mountains.

The Southwest is a great place to study tree rings. In a wet year a tree will put on a large ring because the tree has a lot of resources (mainly water) to grow. In a dry year, a tree will put on a small, thin ring because the tree is stressed for resources. In a particularly stressful year, a tree might not put on a ring at all. Knowing drought years and the local tree-ring pattern created by dry and wet years allows the tree rings in logs and stumps to be precisely dated to the year.

A 'cat face' wound at the base of a tree containing scars from old fires that can be dated using tree-ring analysis.

Some trees record fires in their tree rings. This allows tree ring scientists (dendrochronologists) to date when and where prehistoric fires occurred. Although most mature trees are protected by thick bark and avoided injury from historical low-intensity surface fires, young thin-barked trees can be damaged by fires. After a tree is scarred, subsequent fires will continue to scar the tree and be recorded in the tree rings, creating a record of fire extending back hundreds of years. Scientists collect samples from these fire-scarred trees and date them to learn more about the fire history of an area.

The cross-section below was sampled from a large ponderosa pine in upper Frijoles Canyon in Bandelier and shows 15 different years with dated fire scars. See if you can count them all!

A large cross section of a ponderosa pine has 15 labeled fire scars.

A fire scar sample from Bandelier National Monument. White arrows point to the fire scars.

In the Jemez Mountains, fire-scarred trees have been sampled from > 100 different sites across the mountain range over the last 40 years. This is the largest tree-ring fire-scar network in North America. Because fire scars record the year of past fires, this network can be used to look at the size of historical fires and then make comparisons with modern fires.

Fire in the Jemez used to burn more frequently and across larger areas than we are seeing now, but many old trees survived repeated fires. One tree survived and recorded 32 fires as tree-ring fire scars. How is this possible?

Pre-1900 fire intervals of 5-15 years in ponderosa pine sites meant that fires were burning at lower temperatures since there was not a large buildup of fuels. This allowed most mature trees to survive repeated surface fires and kept the forest open so that the existing trees had room to grow.

Tree-ring fire-scar sites in the Jemez Mountains. At each point 8-10 fire-scarred trees were sampled. Fire scars were dated to reconstruct historical fire records in the Jemez over the last four centuries.

Comparing historical fires to modern day fires, we find that the large size of modern megafires is not as unusual as we once thought. But importantly, the large size of recent high-severity, tree-killing fire patches does seem historically unprecedented in many local forest types.

A chart shows area burned by year in the Jemez Mountains from pre-1600 until present day. A red area points to the ‘modern mega fire.’ When compared to historical acreage, what is considered the ‘modern mega fire’ is historically common in the Jemez Mountains.

Historical fires in the Jemez often burned more acres annually than the 2011 'megafire.'  

Future Fire

Fire occurrence, size, and severity are likely to continue to increase in the near future in the Jemez Mountains, driven by fuel accumulation from a century of fire exclusion, increasingly warm temperatures, and more severe drought stress. Areas that burn hot are likely to convert from forest to shrublands or grasslands, but areas where the historical low severity fire regime has been restored will be more resistant to type conversion. The question is not if there will be fire, but what type of fire, and the answer will largely determine the future of Jemez ecosystems.

A wildland firefighter uses a drip torch to start a prescribed burn in a grassy area.

Prescribed fire in Bandelier National Monument.

A prescribed fire smolders with large trees in the background. Sunlight shines through the smokey air.

Climate Change

Ongoing and projected hotter temperatures and more extreme drought stress in New Mexico suggest that the large high-severity fires will continue as we experience extreme drought and warmer winters.

A line graph with red, blue, and green pathways predicts global temperature rise under three climate models. In all models, temperatures increase by two degrees Fahrenheit.

Representative Concentration Pathway (RCP) models predict temperature increases based on different concentrations of green house gasses in the atmosphere. Even the low predictions show a continued rise in temperatures over the next century.

Large pine trees are illuminated during sunset as the forest floor burns bright orange.

Prescribed Fire

By burning areas incrementally, we can attempt to restore the forests in a safe manner and reduce the chance of large, hot, fires. There are now many  examples  of moderated fire behavior when a wildfire encounters an area previously treated with prescribed burns.

A prescribed fire can be seen behind the road sign welcoming visitors to Bandelier National Monument

Prescribed burn in Bandelier National Monument.

A prescribed fire is seen around the entrance sign to Bandelier National Monument. Smoke is beginning to fill the air.

Prescribed fire at the entrance of Bandelier National Monument.

A wildland firefighter wearing yellow shirt, green pants, and a white hard hat uses a drip torch. Pine trees in the background are already burning around their base.

Thinning

Removing the excessive buildup of surface and ladder fuels is an effective way to reduce fire severities and protect our forests. Typically in thinning operations, smaller diameter trees are mechanically thinned and piled. These piles are burned during cool winter months when there is snow on the ground and the soil is frozen to reduce the fuel load in the forest.

Two piles of logs, branches, and twigs burn surrounded by snow. More piles that have not yet been burned are seen in the foreground and background.

Burning piles in Bandelier National Monument.

Fire Effects Monitoring

Collecting vegetation and surface fuel data in fire-prone landscapes is important for determining the timing and location of thinning and prescribed fire treatments. Data is collected before and after treatments and used to develop objectives for treatments and to determine if the objectives are met.

An ecology crew member takes the diameter of a pine tree at breast height using a measuring tape.

A Fire Ecology crew member takes the diameter of a ponderosa pine at breast height.

Beavers

Beavers fell and use trees for food and to build their dams and homes. By building dams, beaver activity expands wetlands and increases water retention. These wetlands are a valuable resource in the dry Southwest, and wetlands are a lot harder to burn. Bandelier National Monument is reintroducing beavers to Frijoles Canyon to enhance the riparian community.

Two people release a beaver into a creek. The beaver is exiting the transport cage and beginning to swim away.

Bandelier Employees release a beaver in Frijoles Canyon.

Creating the conditions that support naturally-frequent surface fire is essential to restore and preserve healthy forests in the Jemez Mountains.

Without restoring “good” fire, losing our forests is not a question of if, but when. 

An aerial image shows a forest fire burning across a large section of forest. Both smoke and flames can be seen amongst trees that have yet to be burned.

StoryMap Creation

Ella Kasten

Insight, Editing, and Content

Craig Allen, Kay Beeley, Jamie Civitello, Kara Fox, Mannie Lopez, and Ellis Margolis

USGS New Mexico Landscapes Field Station and Bandelier National Monument

Valle Grande in the center of the Jemez Mountains in the Valles Caldera National Preserve.

Sheep grazing Bond Ranch, Valle Grande, Northern New Mexico 1935 and 2001.

Smokey Bear Poster

Gambel oak replaces ponderosa forests following high-severity fire.

A close up of the rings from a ponderosa pine from the Jemez Mountains.

A fire scar sample from Bandelier National Monument. White arrows point to the fire scars.

Historical fires in the Jemez often burned more acres annually than the 2011 'megafire.'  

Wildland fire fighters working on the La Mesa Fire.

The Dome Fire seen from Los Alamos National Lab.

View of the Cerro Grande Fire.

Smoke from the first day of the South Fork Fire.

The Las Conchas fire as seen from Santa Fe.

View of the Thompson Ridge Fire from the Valles Caldera entrance.

Smoke from the Cerro Pelado Fire on April 23, 2022

Areas that burn with high severity have few live trees remaining

An area that burned at high severity during the Las Conchas Fire

Prescribed fire in Bandelier National Monument.

Representative Concentration Pathway (RCP) models predict temperature increases based on different concentrations of green house gasses in the atmosphere. Even the low predictions show a continued rise in temperatures over the next century.

Prescribed burn in Bandelier National Monument.

Prescribed fire at the entrance of Bandelier National Monument.

Burning piles in Bandelier National Monument.

A Fire Ecology crew member takes the diameter of a ponderosa pine at breast height.

Bandelier Employees release a beaver in Frijoles Canyon.