Early Trails of Yosemite

The story map below describes the original trails that led visitors into Yosemite beginning with Miwok and Paiute natives followed by early European explorers, settlers, and tourists.

The trails represented in the map involve varying degrees of accuracy. Those related to Joseph Walker and William Abrams are based on written descriptions created at or soon after the travels described. They are approximations and in the case of the Walker route, much disputed. ¹  The Mariposa Battalion and Calvary Trails are based on maps created at the time by military officers involved. And the Early Tourist Routes follow existing roads (in some cases, failing dirt roads) and are on current maps. All of these routes largely followed native American trails into and through Yosemite.

 ¹  _{Scott Stine, A Way Across the Mountain: Joseph Walker's 1833 Trans-Sierran Passage and the Myth of Yosemite's Discovery, Norman, OK: University of Oklahoma Press, 2015.} 

This mountain [the Sierra Nevada Range] must be near as high as the main chain of the Rocky mountains...Our situation was growing more distressing every hour, and all we now thought of, was to extricate ourselves from this inhospitable region; and, as we were perfectly aware, that to travel on foot was the only way of succeeding, we spent no time in idleness - scarcely stopping in our journey to view an occasional specimen of the wonders of nature's handy-work. We travelled a few miles every day, still on the top of the mountain, and our course continually obstructed with snow hills and rocks. Here we began to encounter in our path, many small streams which would shoot out from under these high snow-banks, and after running a short distance in deep chasms which they have through ages cut in the rocks, precipitate themselves from one lofty precipice to another, until they are exhausted in rain below.

Some of the men thought that if we could succeed in descending one of these precipices to the bottom, we might thus work our way into the valley below - but on making several attempts we found it utterly impossible for a man to descend, to say nothing of our horses. Some of these precipices appeared to us to be more than a mile high. We were then obliged to keep along the top of the dividing ridge between two of these chasms which seemed to lead pretty near in the direction we were going - which was West, - in passing over the mountain, supposing it to run north & south. In this manner we continued until the 25th [of October], without any particular occurrence, except that of our horses dying daily - the flesh of which we preserved for food. Our course was very rough & tiresome, having to encounter one hill of snow and one ledge of rocks after another. On the 25th every man appeared to be more discouraged and down-spirited than ever, and I thought that our situation would soon be beyond hope if no prospect of getting from the mountain would now be discovered...

The next morning we resumed our journey somewhat revived with the strong expectation that after a few days more tedious travelling, we would find ourselves in a country producing some kind of game by which we might recruit our languid frames, and pasture to resuscitate the famished condition of our horses. We still found snow in abundance, but our course was not so much obstructed with rocks as formerly. In two or three days we arrived at the brink of the mountain. This at first was a happy sight, but when we approached close, it seemed to be so near perpendicular that it would be folly to attempt a descent. In looking on the plain below with the naked eye, you have one of the most singular prospects in nature; from the great height of the mountain the plain presents a dim yellow appearance; - but on taking a view with the spy glass we found it to be a beautiful plain stretched out towards the west until the horizon presents a barrier to the sight. From the spot where we stood to the plain beneath, must at least be a distance of three miles, as it is almost perpendicular, a person cannot look down without feeling as if he was wafted to and fro in the air, from the giddy height. ...The next morning after pursuing our course a few miles along the edge of the mountain top we arrived at the path discovered by our men, and immediately commenced the descent, gladly leaving the cold and famished region of snow behind. The mountain was extremely steep and difficult to descend, and the only way we could come any speed was by taking a zigzag direction, first climbing along one side and then turning to the other, until we arrived at a ledge or precipice of rocks, of great height, and extending eight or ten miles along the mountain - where we halted and sent men in each direction to ascertain if there was any possibility of getting over this obstruction. In the afternoon of the same day our men returned without finding any safe passage thro' the rocks - but one man had succeeded in killing a small deer, which he carried all the way to camp on his back - this was dressed, cooked and eat in less time than a hungry wolf would devour a lamb...

well watered by a number of small streams rising here and there along the mountain. In the last two days travelling we have found some trees of the Red-wood species, incredibly large - some of which would measure from 16 to 18 fathoms round the trunk at the height of a man's head from the ground." - Zenas Leonard

 _{Zenas Leonard.  Narrative of the Adventures of Zenas Leonard . Clearfield, Pennsylvania: D. W. Moore, 1839.} 

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Reamer and I saw a grizzly bear tracks and went out to hunt him down getting lost in the mountains and not returning until the following evening, found our way to camp over an Indian trail that led past a valley enclosed by stupendous cliffs rising perhaps 3000 feet from their base and which gave us cause for wonder. Not far off a waterfall dropped from a cliff below three jagged peaks into the valley while farther beyond a rounded mountain stood, the valley wide of which looked as though it had been sliced with a knife as one would slice a loaf of bread and which Reamer and I called the Rock of Ages.

 _{Weldon Fairbanks Heald (1907-1967), “ The Abrams Diary ,” October 18, 1849 from “Notes and Correspondence,” Sierra Club Bulletin 32:5 (May 1947), 126-127.} 

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The face of the immense cliff was shadowed by the declining sun; its outlines only had been seen at a distance... That stupendous cliff is now known as “El Capitan” (the Captain), and the plateau from which we had our first view of the valley, as Mount Beatitude.

It has been said that “it is not easy to describe in words the precise impressions which great objects make upon us.” I cannot describe how completely I realized this truth. None but those who have visited this most wonderful valley, can even imagine the feelings with which I looked upon the view that was there presented.... 

To obtain a more distinct and quiet view, I had left the trail and my horse and wallowed through the snow alone to a projecting granite rock. So interested was I in the scene before me, that I did not observe that my comrades had all moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed alone. My situation attracted the attention of Major Savage,—who was riding in rear of column,—who hailed me from the trail below with, “you had better wake up from that dream up there, or you may lose your hair; I have no faith in Ten-ie-ya’s statement that there are no Indians about here. We had better be moving; some of the murdering devils may be lurking along this trail to pick off stragglers.” I hurriedly joined the Major on the descent, and as other views presented themselves, I said with some enthusiasm, “If my hair is now required, I can depart in peace, for I have here seen the power and glory of a Supreme being; the majesty of His handy-work is in that ‘Testimony of the Rocks.’ ...[Savage replies,] “Hold up, Doc! you are soaring too high for me; and perhaps for yourself. This is rough riding; we had better mind this devilish trail, or we shall go soaring over some of these slippery rocks.” We, however, made the descent in safety. 

The second expedition into Yosemite during the Mariposa Indian Wars was led by Captain John Bowling. Bowling’s group entered Yosemite Valley to find that the natives had fled to the northeast out of the valley. Excerpts from his report follow.

FRESNO RIVER, May 29, 1851 

SIR: 

You will no doubt have learned from my report of the 12th inst., to Major Savage, that we were at that time in close pursuit of the Yosemitie tribes of Indians, that in a slight brush with them we captured their famous chief, and that at this stage of the proceedings the further success of our proceedings was materially affected from the necessity of having to replenish our stock of provisions, which was at a distance of over one hundred miles from our encampment. Notwithstanding the number of our party being reduced to twenty-two men, by the absence of the detachments necessary to escort with safety the pack train, we continued the chase with such rapidity, that we forced a large portion of the Indians to take refuge in the plains with friendly Indians, while the remainder sought to conceal themselves among the rugged cliffs in the snowy regions of the Sierra Nevada. 

Thus far I have made it a point to give as little alarm as possible. After capturing some of them I set a portion at liberty, in order that they might assure the others that if they come in they would not be harmed. Notwithstanding the treachery of the old chief, who contrived to lie and deceive us all the time, his grey hairs saved the boys from inflicting on him that justice which would have been administered under other circumstances. Having become satisfied that we could not persuade him to come in, I determined on hunting them, and if possible running them down, lest by leaving them in the mountains, they should form a new settlement and a place of refuge for other ill disposed Indians, who might do mischief and retreat to the mountains, and finally entice off those who are quiet and settled in the reserve. On the 20th the train of pack animals and provisions arrived, accompanied by a few more men than the party which went out after provisions, and Ponwatchi, the chief of the Nuch-tucs tribe with twelve of his warriors. 

On the morning of the 21st we discovered the trail of a small party of Indians traveling in the direction of the Mono’s country. We followed this trail until 2 o’clock next day, 22d when one of the scouting parties reported a rancheria near at hand. Almost at the same instant a spy was discovered watching our movements. We made chase after him immediately, and succeeded in catching him before he arrived at the rancheria, and we also succeeded in surrounding the ranch and capturing the whole of them. This chase in reality was not the source of amusement which it would seem to be when anticipated. Each man in the chase was stripped to his drawers, in which situation all hands ran at full speed at least four miles, some portion of the time over and through snow ten feet deep, and in the four mile heat all Ponwatchi gained on my boys was only distance enough to enable them to surround the rancheria while my men ran up in front. Two Indians strung their bows and seized their arrows, when they were told if they did not surrender they would be instantly killed. 

They took the proper view of this precaution and immediately surrendered. The inquiry was made of those unfortunate people if they were then satisfied to go with us; their reply was, they were more than willing, as they could go to no other place. From all we could see and learn from those people we were then on the main range of the Sierra Nevada. The snow was in many places more than ten feet deep, and generally where it was deep the crust was sufficiently strong to bear a man’s weight, which facilitated our traveling very much. Here there was a large lake [Tenaya Lake] completely frozen over, which had evidently not yet felt the influence of the spring season. The trail which we were bound to travel lay along the side of a steep mountain so slippery that it was difficult to get along barefoot without slipping and falling hundreds of yards. This place appeared to be their last resort or place where they considered themselves perfectly secure from the intrusion of the white man. In fact those people appear to look upon this place as their last home, composed of nature’s own materials, unaided by the skill of man.... 

Your most obed’t serv’t, 

JOHN BOLING, Capt. Comp’y B 

Infantry troopers from the regular U.S. Army were assigned the task of tracking and capturing Yosemite natives following the killing of two miners in the valley in the spring of 1852 after the Mariposa Batallion had been disbanded. The following two reports from the units commander, Lt. Tredwell Moore, describe this last phase of the Mariposa Indian Wars.

Head Quarters Camp Steele 

Near the Head Waters of the Merced 

July 8th, 1852 

Sir 

I have the honor to report that, I arrived at my present encampment on the Head Waters of the Merced on the 20th of June, immediately on my arrival scouting parties were sent to scour the country in all directions. Many deserted "Rancherias" were found, but no Indians. The friendly Indians we had with us as guides are of the opinion that the entire tribe had crossed the Sierras. Major Savage with a party of Indians struck a fresh trail heading from the valley towards the head waters of the San Joaquin, his provisions giving out he was obliged to return. On the lst I took with me a party of twelve men and taking Major Savage’s trail soon came to a heavy trail. This we continued to follow. And on the morning of the 4th crossed the main ridge of the Sierra. I encamped about noon and sending out scouts I received information that there was a "Rancheria" some four miles distant, by dividing my party I was enabled to take them so completely by surprise that before they were able to move they were entirely surrounded. Twenty-one prisoners were taken—six men, the remainder women and children—one of the prisoners acknowledged that they saw the murders of the whites on the Merced, but denied having participated in it. A number of trinkets together with some clothing was found which fully implicated their participation in the division of the murdered men’s property, if not in the murder. The men I then ordered to be shot which was done on the morning of the 5th. From the women taken I have learned that it was a general thing and that nearly the entire tribe was present at the murder. Lieut. McLean started for Yo Semity Valley on the 1st with ten men with instructions to destroy the "Rancherias" and provisions there, he succeeded in finding a large quantity of acorns which were destroyed. One of his men (Riley) was severely wounded receiving two arrow shots on the night of the 4th while on post as sentinel. Lieut. McLean arrived this morning, having accomplished the destruction of as much property and provisions as could be found. Riley the wounded man died last night. Mr. Crosby will hand you requisition which please submit to the Genl. Commanding at your earliest opportunity. 

Report of July 9, 1852 

Hd. Qrs. Camp Steele 

July 9th, 1852 

Sir 

From information received from the Indian women taken a few days since, I have determined to follow the Yosemities across the Sierras, into the Mono country. The Yo semitis are on friendly terms with the Monos and have fled to this country thinking that the whites will not follow them across the snow. A few families are yet scattered in the vallies high up in the mountains, but are making their way as rapidly as possible to the Mono territory. The squad taken on the 4th was one of these detached parties. The Indians inform me that mules can be taken across the mountains without much difficulty—In connection with this I would state that my command is so small, that I cannot with prudence detach men from it to guard the pack train. This up to the present, has not been necessary, but my farther movement in the mountains will require that the train have a small escort for the safe transmission of supplies. I would respectfully suggest that a small detachment of dragoons be sent to me for that purpose—I would also state that the necessity of detaching two and three men as scouts, without other guns than muskets, has led me to think that a few six shooters would be of service for parties of this nature. Enclosed I transmit a requisition for ten which I hope will meet the approbation of the Genl Comdg... 

Lafayette H. Bunnell. "Map of the Yo-Semite Valley." in  Discovery of the Yosemite . New York: F H Revell Company, 1892. 

Tredwell Moore. " Reports from Lt. Tredwell Moore to the Pacific Division on the Mariposa Indian War of 1852 ." as found in Thomas C. Fletcher, Paiute, Prospector, Pioneer: The Bodie-Mono Lake Area in the Nineteenth Century, (Lee Vining, California: Artemisia Press, 1987.

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 _{images from Carl Russell, 100 Years in Yosemite, Berkeley, California: University of California Press,1932 and from the author's family photos.}  

 _{newscopy from "Sheep Herders Enraged: An Act of Tyranny by Soldiers in the Yosemite," New York Times, Wednesday, May 5, 1891. Downloaded Decemebr 13, 2021 from the  New York Times Archives .} 

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It is difficult to say whether the exciting pleasures of anticipation had quickened our pulses to the more vigorous use of our spurs, or that the horses had already smelled, in imagination at least, the luxuriant patches of grass in the great valley, or that the road was better than it had been before, certain it is, from whatever cause, we traveled faster and easier than at any previous time, and came in sight of the haze-draped summits of the mountain-walls that girdle the Yo-Semite Valley, in a couple of hours after leaving Crane Flat—distance nine miles [actually about six].

Now, it may so happen that the reader entertains the idea that if he could just look upon a wonderful or an impressive scene, he could fully and accurately describe it. If so, we gratefully tender to him the use of our chair; for, we candidly confess, that we can not. The truth is, the first view of this convulsion-rent valley, with its perpendicular mountain cliffs, deep gorges, and awful chasms, spread out before us like a mysterious scroll, took away the power of thinking, much less of clothing thoughts with suitable language...

“This verily is the stand-point of silence,” at length escaped in whispering huskiness from the lips of one of our number, Mr. Ewer. About a mile further on, we reached that point where the descent of the mountain commences; and where our guide required us to dismount, while he arranged the saddle blankets and cruppers, and straightened the saddle girths. Some were for walking down this precipitous trail to the valley, but as the guide informed such that it was nearly seven miles to the foot of the mountain, the desire, for the time being, was overcome; yet, in some of the steepest portions of the trail one or two of the party dismounted, neither of whom, we are proud to say, was a lady.

About two miles from the “Stand-Point of Silence,” while descending the mountain, we arrived at a rapid and beautiful cascade, across which was a bridge, and here we quenched our thirst with its delicious water. Here we will mention that there is an ample supply of excellent cool water, at convenient distances, the entire length of the route, whether by Coulterville or Mariposa.

Soon, another cascade was reached and crossed, and its rushing heedlessness of course among rocks, now leaping over this, and past that; here giving a seething, there a roaring sound; now bubbling, and gurgling here; and smoking and frothing there, kept some of us looking and lingering until another admonition of our guide broke the charm and hurried us away.

The picturesque wildness of the scene on every hand; the exciting wonders of so romantic a journey; the difficulties surmounted; the dangers braved, and overcome; put us in posession of one unanimous feeling of unalloyed delight; so that when we reached the foot of the mountain, and rode side by side among the shadows of the spreading oaks and lofty pines in the smooth valley, we congratulated each other upon looking the very picture of happiness personified.

 _{James M. Hutchins, "The Great Yo-Semite Valley," Hutchins' California Magazine, October, 1859. Downloaded December, 2021 from  Google Books .'} 

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