Holy Wells of Pen Llŷn

Ffynnon Beuno, Clynnog Fawr

 Ffynnon Beuno  is a Grade II* listed building and is one of the few holy wells in Wales to be recognised in this way. In 616 AD  Saint Beuno  founded a religious society in Clynnog Fawr which became an important ecclesiastical centre and place of pilgrimage.  Saint Bueno is best known for successfully restoring to life  Saint Winifred  (or Gwenfrewi) at Holywell; he is also credited with performing the same miracle here on the Llŷn Peninsula for Saint Ddigwig whose well is located just two miles away (see the entry above).

Few holy well sites have such substantial remains and those here are medieval in date; this is according to an archaeological survey which demonstrated that the well was built out of the same type of stone as Beuno's church, which was rebuilt in the 15th century AD. There are later details on the well such as the stone copings (18th century) and the iron gateway (21st century).

Ffynnon Beuno is next to a roadside and approached by a short, paved path where water still flows through a channel at one side. The inner well area is accessed by three stone steps which lead to a modern iron gateway. Care should be taken on the uneven stonework which can be slippery. The well pool is surrounded by stone walls and a stone bench. Look out for the recesses in the walls perhaps they once held statues, candles or flowers?

This holy well site was mentioned by  Thomas Pennant  in his publication  A Tour in Wales  (1788) and in the late 19th century when  Myrddin Fardd  reported how ‘it was a custom to bathe children and others who had succumbed to weakness and fainting'. After bathing the patient would be carried to Bueno Chapel to rest overnight on the tombstone which was covered in rushes. 

Location: The well is less than 50m from St. Beuno's church towards the direction of Pwllheli. Ffynnon Bueno is on the left hand side of the old road which is parallel to the A499. It is close to a 30mph sign. The railings and paved front can be seen from the road. Grid Reference: SH41324945

Ffynnon Aelhaearn, Llanaelhaearn

This site is named after St. Aelhaearn (also spelled Aelbaiarn) who lived in the 7th century AD and is another local saint who was raised from the dead by St. Beuno.  

The building within which  Ffynnon Aelhaearn  dwells was constructed in 1975 although the well was first enclosed in 1900. This is one of just two sites on this story map to have a well-house associated with it, the other being Ffynnon Fair in Nefyn. It is not possible to enter the building to view the well. 

Ffynnon Aelhaearn is located at a key stage on the pilgrimage route to Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island) as it is at the mid-way point between the important ecclesiastical centres of Clynnog Fawr and Pistyll. 

 Thomas Pennant  wrote of his visit to the well in  A Tour in Wales  (1788), describing it as a 'fine well...a bright, bubbling spring of beautiful water'. It is recorded that patients would wait for the 'laughing' or 'troubling' of the water before bathing as this was believed to be extra beneficial for healing. Today the water is a domestic supply for the village.  

Although this well is not accessible there is an interesting artefact in the village church - The Aliortus Stone which is considered to provide evidence of earlier worship in the area prior to Beuno and Aelhaearn. In 1865, this early medieval inscribed stone dating to the 5th or 6th century AD was found nearby in a field known as the Saint’s Garden (Gardd Sant). Roman lettering states in Latin ALIORTVS ELMETIACO HICIACET or here lies Aliortus a man of Elmett (present day West Yorkshire). The stone can be seen on the wall of the north transept within Llanaelhaearn Church (access needs to be arranged in advance - contact details are on the church website -  here ).

Location: The well is directly at the side of the B4417 on the outskirts of Llanaelhaearn village (Llithfaen side). It is not possible to park at the well site and it should be noted that there is little pavement to walk to the site.  The well has been included here to share knowledge and history of the site and can be seen in passing.  Grid Reference: SH38414462

Ffynnon Cae Garw, Carnguwch

 Ffynnon Cae Garw  is believed to be named after Cae Garw cottage which stood in a corner of the same field. It is not known if this site had early origins of use or if it was ever associated with a saint, but it is known that the waters had had a reputation for treating rheumatism and curing warts. Warts seem to have been a common complaint in the nineteenth century as there are many wells across the British Isles which are recorded as being visited in order to cure warts. 

Ffynnon Cae Garw is also known to be a 'pin well'. These are wells where pins were offered, usually by throwing them into the water, and at some wells it was necessary to bend the pin before depositing it. The local antiquarian,  Myrddin Fardd , recorded that at Ffynnon Cae Garw, a pin was thrown into the well for each wart which needed to be removed, whilst at other sites a wart was pricked with the pin before it was thrown into the water. It was considered a taboo to remove anything offered to a well and believed that a thief could catch warts if taking pins from some well sites.

Today the well is buried in concrete with two iron covers and it is the water supply for two nearby farms. 

Location: The well is situated in a field on the right-hand side of the road (B 4417) from Llithfaen to Llanaelhaearn. The field is east of an opening to a road which leads to Hafod, Llithfaen. Grid Reference: SH37404365

Ffynnon John Morgan, near Nefyn

Even though it is not known if this was ever a holy site, this well has been included as its name has been the subject of an un-resolved debate: who exactly was John Morgan and was he a religious figure?  

A survey of the site reported that the well was of triangular construction which 'appeared to be very old', and it was also considered that the well could have had an earlier name before being renamed after John Morgan. 

Ffynnon John Morgan is also located close to Nefyn so it could have been a part of past pilgrim routes, but unfortunately as with many well sites there is no record of any traditions or medicinal properties associated with this well. 

But who was John Morgan? In the nineteenth century, Nefyn was a busy shipbuilding centre. A John Morgan of London is recorded as holding half a share in the schooner ‘Ocean Maid’ which was built in Nefyn in 1863. The ship often transported slate from Porth Dinorwic, Bangor. It is therefore possible that the well was renamed after this person.

There are several men by the name of John Morgan listed in the Dictionary of Welsh Biography, most of whom held notable religious roles but have no obvious link to the Llyn Peninsula, these include:

Bishop of St. David’s Cathedral, Pembrokeshire (born 1496); Vicar of Aberconwy (born 1662); Vicar of Anglesey and later of Essex (born 1688); Vicar of Anglesey and later of Essex (born 1688); Celebrated preacher with links to Llanberis (born 1743); Calvinistic Methodist minister – south Wales (born 1838); Former Archbishop of Wales (born 1886). 

There must more John Morgans associated with the Llŷn Peninsula or more specifically the area of Nefyn. Perhaps the well was named after a local figure or maybe it was the Londoner who had shares in the schooner built in Nefyn? The mystery continues!

Location: Turn off the road that leads from Nefyn to Mynydd Nefyn and on to Lôn Josyn which is a cart track and public footpath to Tan y Mynydd. Face the mountain, go through a kissing gate and the well can be seen on the right, near the path about 70m along. SH31404074

St Mary's Well, Nefyn

There are many sites across Wales named in honour of the Virgin Mary which are called Ffynnon Fair, yet this well is known as  St. Mary's Well . It is also interesting that the original name of the town of Nefyn was Llanfair yn Nefyn which translates to St. Mary’s in Nefyn. 

Although the water no longer flows here it is an attractive structure to visit. As a fresh water supply for the town in the past it would have been a busy gathering place for locals and pilgrims alike especially as it is located on a main route. Unfortunately this is another well site where any associated traditions or properties of the well have been lost. It is possible that this well site was in use for hundreds of years before the present structure was built here.

Many well sites were renovated in the nineteenth century with well-houses which often enclosed much older holy well sites. . This happened here: a stone structure was constructed with a pointed slate roof, which has triangular slates inserts which state that the well was built in 1868 by the Nefyn Corporation, and the names of local dignitaries are also inscribed. St. Mary's well achieved Grade II listed building status in 1998 when CADW recorded that this was a 'prominent and architecturally elaborate well-house'. This well-house is peculiar, not only to Nefyn, but to the whole region.

Whilst in Nefyn we recommend visiting the  Llŷn Maritime Museum and Heritage Centre , as this is located in the old church which was dedicated to St. Mary. Both the well and the museum are included in the  Nefyn Town Trail , which can be found online  here . It is recorded that a church was first established on this site in the 6th century AD, and it is possible that St. Mary's well was also visited at this time. There is always a possibility that the remains of any earlier structure are beneath the surrounding road, pavement and houses. It is recorded that the 'stream which emerged from it ran more or less down the centre of the street' ( Gwynedd Archaeological Trust ).

Location: St. Mary's Well is situated on the side of Stryd y Ffynnon (Well Street) Nefyn, about 50m from the mini-roundabout on the B4417, and there is very limited street parking in the immediate vicinity. Grid Reference: SH3072840584

The museum is located at St. Mary's Church, Stryd y Mynach, LL53 6LB, look out for the weathervane in the form of a sailing ship.

Ffynnon y Brenin, Garn Fadryn

The waters of many holy wells across Wales were associated with the treatment of eye conditions, this was also the case at Ffynnon y Brenin (The King's Well). Furthermore,  Myrddin Fardd  reported that the water here was also believed to treat infertility and melancholy in women.

Elsewhere it is recorded that there is a large flat rectangular stone known as Bwrdd y Brenin (The King’s Table) close to this site (25m to the west) although it is uncertain when the stone and the well were associated with royalty or which King it may be. We also cannot rule out that any association with Arthur was a folly of the nineteenth century folklorists. 

There are prehistoric remains associated with Carn Fadrun, including a large and impressive Iron Age hillfort, and so it could be speculated that the King in question could have pre-dated Arthur!

Note: Although this site was recognised by the antiquarian Myrddin Fardd neither the well nor the large stone are recorded on modern maps or within the Historic Environment Record.

Location: On the north face of  Garn Fadryn , approximately 25m west of Bwrdd y Brenin (King’s Table) - an enormous rectangular stone with a flat surface. It is on level ground just before the steep climb to the summit. Location: SH27923534

Ffynnon Gwynhoedl, Llangwnadl

 Ffynnon Gwynhoedl  bears the name of Saint Gwynhoedl, one of the earliest Welsh saints. He is said to be the brother of Tudno, the patron saint of Llandudno. It is also reported that Gwynhoedl was a son of Seith Enyn, who was considered to be responsible for the drowning of the township of Cantre’r Gwaelod, now submerged in Cardigan Bay. 

According to The Book of Welsh Saints (Breverton, 2000) Gwynhoedl spent time at the monastery of Bangor-on-Dee before founding the church at Llangwnadl in the sixth century AD. Saint Gwynhoedl's bell, a copper hand-bell, is in the collection of the National Museum Wales, it was believed that the saint used this bell to scare evil spirits away, but this example has been dated to 900-1200 AD, which is at least 300 years after Gwynhoedl was alive.

Any customs or properties of the holy well are currently unknown but there is good reason to believe that this well was an important part of the Pilgrim’s route as it was a popular shrine and located just five miles north of Porth Meudwy, the departure point for Ynys Enlli / Bardsey Island.  Nearby there is an area called Cae Eisteddfa, or Hospice Field, believed to have been a place where pilgrims and saints could rest and camp, Cae Eisteddfa is across the river close to the church, which is in the vicinity of Ffynnon Gwynhoedl, according to historic maps.

This well is described on an earlier survey as a rectangular well, 1.1m x 0.8m, with 0.65m depth of water. But please note, although the church is easy to locate the actual well is difficult to find without the aid of GPS or a map and compass.

Location: On the road from Bont Pen y Graig towards  Llangwnadl Church . Pass through the first gate after the church. Walk diagonally across the field towards the river and the church. Approximately 10m from the church the well can be seen close to a steep bank. Please note this well is on private land. Grid Reference: SH2095332

Ffynnon Fair, Llanbedrog

This is the third holy well site on this storymap which is named after the Virgin Mary. The water here was alleged to have properties to cure a variety of ailments which could affect both people and animals. The patient, or the owner of the animal, would kneel at the edge of the well and affirm their faith in the well when making such a request. 

It was believed that the identity of a thief could be identified by dropping a piece of bread into the water whilst naming a suspect. If the bread sank, then the thief had been correctly named. This well would fit into three categories, that of holy, healing and divining wells.

The well has a cover which is set into concrete atop a red brick base. It is often obscured by a gorse bush. Originally, it was described as a three-cornered structure; a triangular shaped well was also recorded at Ffynnon John Morgan near Nefyn.

Location: On the road leading from Foel Fach, Mynytho down to the Rhydyclafdy/Llanbedrog road. A gate to the site (the site of the Old Waterworks) lies on the right-hand side and a little way beyond the waterworks. Go through the gate and follow the track in a south-easterly direction for 80m. Grid Reference: SH31133293

Ffynnon Fyw, Myntho

In times past, Ffynnon Fyw was an important holy well site in this area. This can be seen from the significant and interesting structural remains at the site which includes stone benches, steps and two well pools. It was recorded in the Archaeologia Cambrensis journal (1923) as having walls which were 6-7 feet high, although seeing the stonework can very much depend on the time of year and how recently the ever encroaching bracken has been cleared away. Nature soon engulfs these ancient sites, and it is thanks to hardworking Llŷn AONB volunteers and groups such as  Cymdeithas Ffynhonnau Cymru  that Ffynnon Fyw has not sunk into obscurity.

The custom associated with this site, according to the antiquarian  Myrddin Fardd , was to bathe in the larger well and to drink from the smaller well, where a would be coin was offered. Ffynnon Fyw was believed to be a healing well with reports that a blind man had his sight restored. This well was also known as the 'living well' or the 'live well'.

Location: On the road from Mynytho to Abersoch, turn left near Bryn Hyfryd. Follow the road for 80m past Horeb Chapel. Grid Reference: SH30913087.

Ffynnon Engan, Llanegan

 Ffynnon Engan  is associated with King Einion who gave Ynys Enlli to  Cadfan . He was the first Abbott of the island and King Einion is also known as St. Engan. This well is believed to date from the late sixteenth century, if not earlier.

Ffynnon Engan is recorded as a site that would have been visited by pilgrims and for being a place where many miracles were performed, although there are no records of any specific healing properties or traditions associated with this site. It is recorded that the water was also used for baptism. Offerings could be made in a casket known as  Cyff Engan which can be seen at  St. Engan's Church  in Llanegan. 

An archaeological survey of 2011 considered that Ffynnon Engan was of potential national importance. The well does have the protection of a Grade II Listed status and restoration work was undertaken in the 1990's. The site is on private land and well cared for by the current owner who has landscaped the area where the outflow of the well forms a stream.

Location: The well is located 100m from the church to the north-west. Follow a path beside the church cemetery. Continue right past the houses known as Tanyfynwent and follow a path 50m behind a house on the right-hand side. Grid Reference: SH29302710

Ffynnon Saint, Rhiw

The waters of  Ffynnon Saint , Rhiw were believed to be beneficial for eyes, and a pin was thrown into the water as a votive offering. There are some structural remains visible at this site including three steps which descend to water level. This site is owned by the National Trust. 

As a site where pins were offered, also seen at Ffynnon Cae Garw, Ffynnon Saint would fall under the category of pin wells, of which around 55 are known to exist in Wales. Pin wells often had a reputation for healing and are mostly recorded as being visited for those seeking help with sore eyes or warts. 

In common with other well sites, watercress often grows at this site. In the nineteenth century, watercress was known as Poor Man’s Bread: could it be that this site provided nourishment as well as refreshment to visiting pilgrims and locals?  

Location: Follow a cart track that traces the eastern flank of Mynydd Rhiw from the Morfa Neigwl to Rhiw road (near Tre Heili ). 100m above sea level on the slopes of Bron Llwyd. Continue to a National Trust owned shed, then follow a path on the left up the slope towards a mountain wall. Follow the wall for about approximately 10m, then pass through a gate to the well. Grid Reference: SH242295

Ffynnon Aelrhiw, Rhiw

 Ffynnon Aelrhiw  bears the name of an early saint, Aelrhiw, who is first recorded in the 6th century AD, although the structure here is thought to date to the 17th century AD which would make it contemporary with nearby  Plas yn Rhiw Hall . However, this does not mean that the well was not visited in earlier times.  Along with Ffynnon Bueno, this site is protected with a Grade II listed building status.

 Ffynnon Aelrhiw  has substantial structural remains consisting of a rectangular pool which is surrounded by a paved surface and enclosed by a wall. There are stone seats to three sides. It has a northern entrance which has a single standing stone on the right-hand side: the provenance of this stone is unknown. 

Little is known about St. Aelrhiw although fittingly this name translates to brow of the hill'; so far it is not known if the water was taken by drinking or bathing or whether any offerings were made here. However, it was recorded in the nineteenth century that the water was believed to be therapeutic for skin conditions, in particular Scrofula which affected lymph nodes in the neck. This illness was also known as The King’s Evil as it was thought that a ‘royal touch’ could also effect a cure. However, at this site, the illness was known as 'Man Aeliw' (the spot of Aeliw). It would seem that Scrofula was a common illness in the post-medieval period as there are other holy well sites which share this healing reputation, including  Ffynnon Cybi , also located on the Llŷn peninsula.

Location: The well is situated in Tyddyn Aeliw fields, 160m south-west of St Aelrhiw Church. Pass through a gate into the field near a post box and opposite the church gate. Follow the left hand wall to the far end of the field. The well can be seen on the left in the next field. Grid Reference: SH2338028470

Ffynnon Saint, Aberdaron

 Ffynnon Saint , or the Saint’s Well, is located in an area which is significant in the early history of Christianity on Pen Llŷn . Located close to the river Afon Saint, this D-shaped well has a modern metal lid, and it is recorded that there was a structure, the walls of which were dismantled in the nineteenth century in order to build the nearby bridge. As part of the Pilgrim’s Way, this site was one of the last stops on the route to the boat departure point for Ynys Enlli at Porth Meudwy. After a steep walk from Aberdaron it would be a welcome pitstop for rest and refreshment and to participate in any traditions associated with the site.

It is recorded that a local healer, Ann Griffiths (born 1734), of nearby Uwchmnydd, used the water as an ingredient in her remedies, most notably with gorse flower to treat depression. She is credited with extolling the virtues of foxgloves for treating heart disorders, a fact which was proven by science in the century following her death. Ann practised as a midwife and was involved at the birth of an intriguing local character, Robert Jones, also known as  Dick Aberdaron  (born c. 1799). A polygot who could speak around fifteen languages (self-taught), he was thought of as a genius and an eccentric and was known to travel widely with a coat full of books and his pet cat.

Location: At the junction between Aberdaron, Uwchmynydd and Anelog – opposite Minafon. The well has a slate sign outside a gap in the hedge and is directly opposite the roadsign/fingerpost. Grid reference: SH16532672