Exploring Portsmouth and Southsea's Seafront Stories

The seafront from Old Portsmouth to Eastney is full of historic sites and memorials, which tell the story of this unique island city ...

by Asimina Porrou

Introduction

Welcome to the Solent Harbours Discovery Programme Virtual Trail of Southsea! On this trail, you'll discover the stories behind various structures lying on the foreshore or coast of this historic coastal town.

Our self-guided Low Tide Trails can be followed virtually as well as physically. If you do go for a physical walk using our trail as a guide you are responsible for your own welfare and safety. MOLA/CITiZAN cannot accept any liability for injury/damage/trespass as a result

Trail

The seafront from Old Portsmouth to Eastney is full of historic sites and memorials, which tell the story of this unique island city ...

The Round Tower

The Round Tower was built on the orders of King Henry V in 1415. It was first constructed using wood, which was replaced with stone in the 1490s. The tower has undergone many alterations during its lifetime; the ground floor was reconstructed between 1538 and 1540; during the late 17th century, two upper levels were added by Sir Bernard de Gomme, and these were then altered again in the early 19th century; the roof was modified to serve as a gun platform circa 1850; and in the 20th century, ashlar stone was used to cover the roof. Portsmouth City Council purchased the tower in 1958 and it remains today within the Council’s possession.

Remains of Capstan

Immediately to the north of the Round Tower is Capstan Square, so-called because it was once the site of a capstan which was used to lift the chain boom which extended across to Gosport to close the entrance to Portsmouth Harbour. The chain was first recorded in the 16th century and was last renovated in the 18th century at the time of the American War of Independence. The remains of the capstan were still in Capstan Square in 1843 and several links from the chain were excavated in the late 19th century and again in 1930. Two links are on display in Southsea Castle.

The Square Tower

The Tower was built in 1494 during the reign of Henry VII and is one of the earliest stone fortifications in Old Portsmouth. It served as the residence of the military governor until around 1580 when the governor’s residence was moved to a mansion built on the south side of the Domus Dei (Garrison Church).

Historic Sea Walls

Recent work on Portsmouth City Council's Southsea Coastal Scheme revealed structural remains related to 17th-century historic defences. The remains comprise a wall and possible slipway which appears on a map of 1750 by J.P Desmaretz.

The Domus Dei/Royal Garrison Church

The Domus Dei was founded around 1212 by Peter de Rubibus, the Bishop of Winchester as a hostel for pilgrims and a hospital for the sick and elderly.

Portsmouth Dredge project

Portsmouth Harbour was dredged to deepen the channel to enable the new aircraft carrier, HMS Queen Elizabeth, to access the port. During the project, numerous archaeological finds were recovered, including several cannonballs and a hand grenade of Napoleonic date (1799−1815).

Trafalgar Monument

The memorial to the Battle of Trafalgar consists of an anchor from HMS Victory (which was launched in 1795). It is inscribed 'The Victory's Anchor Oct 21st 1805' and 'The Battle of Trafalgar. The British fleet consisted of 27 sail of the line; that of the allies of France and Spain 33, of these 19 were taken or destroyed by Lord Nelson' and 'Near this memorial on the 14th September 1805, Admiral Lord Nelson embarked for the last time, being killed on the following 21st October at the victorious Battle of Trafalgar'.

Chesapeake Monument

This monument was created by TJ Willis and SJ Nichol in 1862 to observe HMS Chesapeake. The monument was restored by Admiral Sir George Willes who captained the Chesapeake from 1859 – 1861. The monument observes “Their comrades who fell in battle or died from disease and accident during an eventful commission (of HMS Chesapeake of 4 years [1857-61])"

Memorial HMS Shannon

This monument was installed on the 1st January 1860 in reference to the quelling of what is referred to as the “Indian Mutiny or Indian rebellion” 1857 – 1858. This first war for Independence was against the Rule of the British East India company that was acting as a Sovereign power for the British crown in India. 1857 Marks the start of India’s fight to regain Independence, which was not realised until 1947.

Portsmouth Naval Memorial

The Portsmouth Naval Memorial was built in 1924 on Southsea Common to honour members of the Royal Navy who died at sea during the First and Second World Wars and have no known grave. The memorial features a central obelisk, with the names of the dead engraved on bronze plaques arranged around the memorial according to the year of death. Built with Portland stone and topped with a metal finial, there are identical examples in the naval ports of Chatham and Plymouth. The memorial is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.

Aboukir Memorial

H.M.S Aboukir was a receiving ship employed in Jamacia to house new recruits in the late 1800s, at which time Jamacia was a Crown Colony with a British appointed governor. Between 1873-74 48 officers and men died during a yellow fever epidemic on board.

Crimean War Memorial

Unveiled on the 10th June 1857, this memorial was erected by “the Debating Society of Portsmouth aided by their fellow townsmen” and was installed to observe the soldiers and sailors that died from their wounds during the Crimean war from 1853 – 1856.

Southsea Common

Southsea Common was once part of Froddington (Fratton) Manor, and later part of the Domus Dei. It was surrendered to King Henry VIII in 1540 as part of his campaign to strengthen Portsmouth’s defences which saw the building of Southsea Castle in 1544.

Landing craft tank LCT 7074

The D-Day Museum's latest acquisition LCT 7074, is the last surviving Landing Craft Tank (LCT) in the UK. It played a vital role in transporting men, vehicles, and supplies across the English Channel during WWII. She was built in 1944 by Hawthorn Leslie and Company, Hebburn, and was part of the 17th LCT Flotilla during Operation Neptune in June 1944. After it was retired in 1948, LCT 7074 was turned into a nightclub, she served as a floating nightclub in the 60s and 70s and was acquired by the Warship Preservation Trust in the late 1990s but fell into disrepair and sank in Birkenhead docks. The vessel was raised by the National Museum of the Royal Navy in October 2014 and transported by sea to Portsmouth for restoration to its previous glory.

Southsea Castle

Southsea Castle was built between 1538 and 1544 on the orders of King Henry VIII. It was constructed as part of a series of coastal fortifications to protect England against the threat of French and Spanish attacks. It is said that the Southsea castle was designed by Henry VIII himself and cost at least £31,000 which is equivalent to nearly £1 million pounds today. It was armed with cannons and its pointed bastions eliminated any blind spots so that guns could fire all along the walls. The castle retained its purpose as a dynamic military base for over 400 years.

The Lighthouse

Built in 1821, the lighthouse is situated on the north face of Southsea Castle and helps mark the deep-water channel for vessels entering Portsmouth Harbour.

Solent Forts

Looking out from Southsea Castle across the Solent, you will see a series of four forts, known as the Solent Forts. These form part of the circle of Palmerston Forts which were built in response to the 1859 Royal Commission’s perceived threat of a French invasion following Louis Napoleon’s (nephew of N. Bonaparte) seizure of power in 1852 and his subsequent declaration as Emperor Napoleon III.

Mary Rose

The Mary Rose, Henry VIII's flagship built-in 1509, sank during the battle of the Solent on July 19, 1545. It is suggested that it was Henry’s favourite ship and that he watched from Southsea Castle as she sank.

Cowdray Engraving

A scene from the Battle of the Solent which features Southsea Castle and Common along with the Square and Round towers is depicted in the Cowdray Engraving. The painting is a copy of a contemporary painting commissioned by Sir Anthony Browne sometime between 1545-1548. "The Encampment of the English forces near Portsmouth" was one of a series of five paintings for Sir Anthony’s dining room showing various scenes from his life. Sir Anthony was the master of the Kings horses and is portrayed at the centre of the painting on a white horse next to Henry VIII and Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, Commander of the Land Forces.

Original Victorian Promenade

Sections of Southsea’s original promenade dating back to 1848 have been found during ground investigation works undertaken as part of the Southsea Coastal Scheme. Workers were initially boring holes in a tarmac footpath near Southsea Castle to investigate the depth of the outer edge of the brickwork of the tunnels below when they encountered a stone surface around two meters thick. Further investigation revealed this to be the original front edge of the old promenade. The tunnels beneath the promenade form part of a redesign of Southsea Castle undertaken in the early 19th century that enabled defenders to fire from the moat toward attackers from all sides.

South Parade Pier

South Parade Pier was built between 1875 and 1878, at a time when Southsea was a popular Victorian seaside resort. One of its original functions was as a passenger terminal for steamboats to the Isle of Wight.

Submarine Blocks

When you walk past the pier and look out to sea at a fairly low tide, you will see a whole line of large concrete blocks that extend to around 1.8 meters below sea level and run out to the vicinity of Horse Sand Fort. These submarine blocks were constructed during the Second World War to obstruct any enemy submarines from entering Portsmouth Harbour.

Canoe Lake

Canoe Lake was originally part of the large area of marshland known as the Great Morass. In 1884 it was described as ‘a dismal-looking depression, strewn with rusty tins, mouldy rubbish and other abominations’ (City of Portsmouth Records of the Corporation 1835-1927, 155). In 1884 work was begun to turn it into an ornamental lake and it was formally opened by the Mayor in 1886.

Emanuel Drinking Fountain

The Emanuel Drinking Fountain is located in the southwest corner of Canoe Lake Park. It was presented in in honour of Alderman Emanual Emanuel who was the first Jewish Mayor of Portsmouth in 1849, following his death in 1888. Emanuel a major force in leading improvements for the benefit of the community, such as gas and water supplies and encouraging parks and other recreational spaces.

Pillboxes and Gunplacements

Pillboxes or British hardened field defences of World War II (to give them their technical term) are believed to take their colloquial name ‘pillbox’ from the Pillar Box - red post boxes dotted around the UK.

Eastney Fort

The remains of Eastney Fort lie immediately to the east of the former Royal Marines Museum, though little of the structure remains.

Yomper

The statue known as the Yomper, was created by sculptor Philip Jackson and is modelled from a photo of Corporal Peter Robinson yomping to ‘Sapper Hill’ during the Falklands War. It was unveiled by Margaret Thatcher on the 8th of July 1992 and dedicated to all the Royal Marines and those who served with them in the South Atlantic during the Falklands War of 1982.

Anti-Tank Blocks

When you reach the end of the footpath at Eastney Esplanade and drop down onto the beach, you will see a line of large concrete blocks extending east along the beach.

Fort Cumberland

Fort Cumberland on Eastney Point, is an angled bastioned fort with a regular star shape with five bastions and a ravelin on its western side and is considered one of the most impressive examples of 18th-century defensive architecture in England.

The Round Tower

The Round Tower was built on the orders of King Henry V in 1415. It was first constructed using wood, which was replaced with stone in the 1490s. The tower has undergone many alterations during its lifetime; the ground floor was reconstructed between 1538 and 1540; during the late 17th century, two upper levels were added by Sir Bernard de Gomme, and these were then altered again in the early 19th century; the roof was modified to serve as a gun platform circa 1850; and in the 20th century, ashlar stone was used to cover the roof. Portsmouth City Council purchased the tower in 1958 and it remains today within the Council’s possession.

Remains of Capstan

Immediately to the north of the Round Tower is Capstan Square, so-called because it was once the site of a capstan which was used to lift the chain boom which extended across to Gosport to close the entrance to Portsmouth Harbour. The chain was first recorded in the 16th century and was last renovated in the 18th century at the time of the American War of Independence. The remains of the capstan were still in Capstan Square in 1843 and several links from the chain were excavated in the late 19th century and again in 1930. Two links are on display in Southsea Castle.

The Square Tower

The Tower was built in 1494 during the reign of Henry VII and is one of the earliest stone fortifications in Old Portsmouth. It served as the residence of the military governor until around 1580 when the governor’s residence was moved to a mansion built on the south side of the Domus Dei (Garrison Church).

At the end of the 16th and early 17th centuries, the tower was adapted for use as a magazine. During the English Civil War 1642-1649, the Square Tower was used as an arsenal and contained large amounts of gunpowder and munitions. In 1716 the tower was deemed unsuitable as a magazine on safety grounds. The gunpowder from the tower had to be transported along the streets to the loading berth at Portsmouth Point. To rectify this problem a jetty was built adjacent to the tower, which became known as 'Powder Bridge', and occupied the position where Victoria Pier now stands.

The new jetty allowed the gunpowder to be loaded directly from the magazine onto the moored ships, through an opening in the sea wall. In 1779, the admiralty wanted to build a new victualing store at the town quay, following which the old 'Powder Bridge' became known as the 'Beef stage'. In 1823, the admiralty added a semaphore station to the top of the tower to carry messages from the shore to ships in the harbour and at sea. At the time, the semaphore station served as the first link in a chain that connected Portsmouth with the Admiralty in London. The semaphore system subsequently became redundant with the introduction of the electric telegraph and the semaphore tower was demolished in 1848.

Historic Sea Walls

Recent work on Portsmouth City Council's Southsea Coastal Scheme revealed structural remains related to 17th-century historic defences. The remains comprise a wall and possible slipway which appears on a map of 1750 by J.P Desmaretz. 

The Domus Dei/Royal Garrison Church

The Domus Dei was founded around 1212 by Peter de Rubibus, the Bishop of Winchester as a hostel for pilgrims and a hospital for the sick and elderly.

Originally, it consisted of a long vaulted hall, divided into bays on either side to house patients, with a chapel at one end, separated from the main hall by a partition.

In 1540, following the Reformation, it was used as an ammunition store during which time it fell into disrepair.

In 1559, it became part of the governor's house and became the Royal Garrison Chapel which was home to Governors of Portsmouth until 1826.

In the 19th century, the church was extensively restored by the architect GE Street who re-established its original 13th-century appearance.

The roof was destroyed in 1941 during a bombing raid. In 1994-95 the aisles were re-roofed with slate, while the nave remains roofless. This site is now in the care of English Heritage

Portsmouth Dredge project 

Portsmouth Harbour was dredged to deepen the channel to enable the new aircraft carrier, HMS Queen Elizabeth, to access the port. During the project, numerous archaeological finds were recovered, including several cannonballs and a hand grenade of Napoleonic date (1799−1815).

The grenade was spherical and made of cast iron with its wooden fuse intact. These types of grenades weighed around 1.5 kg, were equivalent in size to a four-pound cannonball, and were used during land combat and on Naval vessels (Crowdy 2015). Used for close-quarter action, the hand grenade was one of the more common munitions aboard warships during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Hand grenades of this kind were used throughout the Napoleonic era by both the French and British.

References:

Crowdy, T. 2015, Napoleon's Infantry Handbook. Barnsley, Pen and Sword

Trafalgar Monument

The memorial to the Battle of Trafalgar consists of an anchor from HMS Victory (which was launched in 1795). It is inscribed 'The Victory's Anchor Oct 21st 1805' and 'The Battle of Trafalgar. The British fleet consisted of 27 sail of the line; that of the allies of France and Spain 33, of these 19 were taken or destroyed by Lord Nelson' and 'Near this memorial on the 14th September 1805, Admiral Lord Nelson embarked for the last time, being killed on the following 21st October at the victorious Battle of Trafalgar'.

Very little of the original anchor remains after extensive repairs in the 1970s when a new wooden stock was added.

References:

Berridge DW: Monuments and Memorials in the City of Portsmouth: 1984-)

Chesapeake Monument

This monument was created by TJ Willis and SJ Nichol in 1862 to observe HMS Chesapeake. The monument was restored by Admiral Sir George Willes who captained the Chesapeake from 1859 – 1861. The monument observes “Their comrades who fell in battle or died from disease and accident during an eventful commission (of HMS Chesapeake of 4 years [1857-61])"

The Several Inscriptions list naval personal who died from their wounds or were killed in the attacks on Taku Fort, China, on the 25th June 1859, during the Second opium wars. The attack was a response to China's refusal to allow foreign legislations to be set up in Beijing, which lead to Naval Forces attacking the forts that guard the mouth of the Hai River. It also details place names where the ship was active during this contentious period “Peiho, Peking, Jeddah and Calcutta and India 1857-58, Arabia 1859-59, and China 1859-60-61”.

References:

Berridge, D W, Monuments and Memorials in the City of Portsmouth, (1984), 5

Memorial HMS Shannon

This monument was installed on the 1st January 1860 in reference to the quelling of what is referred to as the “Indian Mutiny or Indian rebellion” 1857 – 1858. This first war for Independence was against the Rule of the British East India company that was acting as a Sovereign power for the British crown in India. 1857 Marks the start of India’s fight to regain Independence, which was not realised until 1947.

The memorial was paid for by the Officers and Crew of HMS Shannon who raised £350 to erect the monument in memory of their Captain William Peel and military personal that died during this campaign against Indian Independence.

The memorial was originally adorned with a cannon captured from the siege of Lucknow and was Initially intended to be installed outside the royal naval college In Portsmouth dockyard.

The crew was awarded Five Victoria crosses for their role in the Campaign. They were awarded to Lieutenants Nowell Salmon and Thomas Young, Leading Seaman John Harrison and Able Seaman Edward Robinson and William Hall. William Hall became the First black and Canadian soldier to be awarded the medal. 

References:

Portsmouth Naval Memorial

The Portsmouth Naval Memorial was built in 1924 on Southsea Common to honour members of the Royal Navy who died at sea during the First and Second World Wars and have no known grave. The memorial features a central obelisk, with the names of the dead engraved on bronze plaques arranged around the memorial according to the year of death. Built with Portland stone and topped with a metal finial, there are identical examples in the naval ports of Chatham and Plymouth. The memorial is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.

Aboukir Memorial

H.M.S Aboukir was a receiving ship employed in Jamacia to house new recruits in the late 1800s, at which time Jamacia was a Crown Colony with a British appointed governor. Between 1873-74 48 officers and men died during a yellow fever epidemic on board.

This memorial was erected in 1875 in memory of the 48 Officers and Men who died during this epidemic.

Crimean War Memorial

Unveiled on the 10th June 1857, this memorial was erected by “the Debating Society of Portsmouth aided by their fellow townsmen” and was installed to observe the soldiers and sailors that died from their wounds during the Crimean war from 1853 – 1856.

The Inscription reads “ Erected in memory of those brave soldiers and sailors who during the late war with Russia died of their wounds and are buried in this garrison”

References:

Berridge, D W, Monuments and Memorials in the City of Portsmouth, (1984), 2

Pevsner, N, The Buildings of England: Hampshire and the Isle of Wight, (1967), 463

 

Southsea Common

Southsea Common was once part of Froddington (Fratton) Manor, and later part of the Domus Dei. It was surrendered to King Henry VIII in 1540 as part of his campaign to strengthen Portsmouth’s defences which saw the building of Southsea Castle in 1544. 

Large areas of the common were marshland known as the Great Morass and Little Morass. The area was drained and levelled during the development of Southsea in the early 19th century. 

The area was kept open with a clear view to the sea to enable a clear range of fire to defend the harbour approach and the dockyard.   

Areas to the north and east were developed for housing in the mid-1800s by a local speculator, Thomas Ellis Owen. The central area was planted with avenues of holm oaks, with walkways such as the Ladies’ Mile (1884) established.

It was still owned by the War Department until 1922 when it was bought by Portsmouth Corporation.  

Reference:

Landing craft tank LCT 7074

The D-Day Museum's latest acquisition LCT 7074, is the last surviving Landing Craft Tank (LCT) in the UK. It played a vital role in transporting men, vehicles, and supplies across the English Channel during WWII. She was built in 1944 by Hawthorn Leslie and Company, Hebburn, and was part of the 17th LCT Flotilla during Operation Neptune in June 1944. After it was retired in 1948, LCT 7074 was turned into a nightclub, she served as a floating nightclub in the 60s and 70s and was acquired by the Warship Preservation Trust in the late 1990s but fell into disrepair and sank in Birkenhead docks. The vessel was raised by the National Museum of the Royal Navy in October 2014 and transported by sea to Portsmouth for restoration to its previous glory.

Reference:

Southsea Castle

Southsea Castle was built between 1538 and 1544 on the orders of King Henry VIII. It was constructed as part of a series of coastal fortifications to protect England against the threat of French and Spanish attacks. It is said that the Southsea castle was designed by Henry VIII himself and cost at least £31,000 which is equivalent to nearly £1 million pounds today. It was armed with cannons and its pointed bastions eliminated any blind spots so that guns could fire all along the walls. The castle retained its purpose as a dynamic military base for over 400 years.

In 1642, during the Civil War, the castle was taken by Parliamentary forces. The outer wall was reconstructed in 1670 and in 1759 during an accidental explosion, a large part of the castle was destroyed. In 1812, Southsea Castle was completely renovated to accommodate extra guns and a larger garrison in time of war. A counterscarp gallery was added around the moat, which had a passage running around it with loopholes to provide armed cover for the moat. A caponier or covered passage, which led from inside the castle to the counterscarp gallery was also added. From 1814 until 1850, the castle was used as a military jail, but its guns remained ready for action. In 1820, a lighthouse was built which is still in use today. The castle was refortified with additional coastal batteries in the 1860s, and again in 1902. In 1960, the castle was acquired by Portsmouth City Council which has restored it to its 19th-century appearance.

References:

The Lighthouse

Built in 1821, the lighthouse is situated on the north face of Southsea Castle and helps mark the deep-water channel for vessels entering Portsmouth Harbour. 

Reference:

Solent Forts

Looking out from Southsea Castle across the Solent, you will see a series of four forts, known as the Solent Forts. These form part of the circle of Palmerston Forts which were built in response to the 1859 Royal Commission’s perceived threat of a French invasion following Louis Napoleon’s (nephew of N. Bonaparte) seizure of power in 1852 and his subsequent declaration as Emperor Napoleon III. 

The two outer forts, Horse Sand and No Mans Land are the largest (200ft diameter) and are identical. They’re constructed on a ring of large granite blocks with the interior filled with clay and shingle, covered with a thick layer of concrete and covered in an armoured plating. 

Spitbank (the one closest) and St Helens are smaller (150ft diameter) and armoured plated on one side only. 

By the time construction had finished the threat of French invasion had passed, and though they continued to be armed, they were never used as intended. During the First World War two of the forts were used as naval signal stations and the surrounding waters were fortified with a line of concrete blocks and piles. In 1940, during the Second World War they were prepared for the seizure of French warships and while their guns were poised and ready, they never actually fired.

After the war, the forts were de-activated and used for coastal artillery, until 1956.  

Mary Rose

The Mary Rose, Henry VIII's flagship built-in 1509, sank during the battle of the Solent on July 19, 1545. It is suggested that it was Henry’s favourite ship and that he watched from Southsea Castle as she sank.

She was built in Portsmouth along with her sister ship the Peter Pomegranate and they both carracks designed for war, though the Mary Rose was bigger (600 tons) and could carry a heavier armament. 

The Mary Rose served as a warship for a total of 34 years. In 1536 she was refitted with extra guns and gunports added and her sides were strengthened to accommodate the extra weight. 

On 12th July 1545, a French fleet of 200 ships set sail and arrived on the Sussex coast on 18th July and entered the Solent on 19th July. The Mary Rose foundered after she fired from her starboard side and as she turned to fire from the port side, she listed to starboard where the gunports were believed to have been open and water flooded into the ship. She is reported to have gone down in a matter of minutes and of the 500 men on board, only 35 survived. 

Following the battle, long and costly efforts were made to raise her but to no avail.

The site of her sinking was rediscovered in 1836 when pioneering divers, the Deane brothers were exploring wrecks and were alerted by fishermen, who reported that their nets were getting caught in one area. The Deane brothers salvaged several large guns from the ship, following which she was once again forgotten for some time.

In 1965, Alexander McKee initiated the ‘Project Solent Ships’ to investigate shipwrecks in the Solent but his main target was the Mary Rose. Sonar scans of the seabed revealed an anomaly which McKee believed to be the Mary Rose, and following numerous exploratory dives, her position was confirmed. 

During excavations between 1979-82 over 22,000 artifacts were recovered including weapons, sailing equipment, naval supplies, and a range of objects used by the crew. Many of the artifacts are unique to the Mary Rose and have provided insights into topics ranging from naval warfare to the history of musical instruments.

The remains of the hull were raised in October 1982. Following years of conservation of the ship’s timbers, she now rests in the amazing Mary Rose Museum in Portsmouth’s Historic Dockyard which is dedicated to all the poor souls who lost their lives on 19th July 1545. 

References:

Gardiner, J (ed) 2017, Before the Mast: Life and Death Aboard the Mary Rose, Oxbow Books

Cowdray Engraving

A scene from the Battle of the Solent which features Southsea Castle and Common along with the Square and Round towers is depicted in the Cowdray Engraving. The painting is a copy of a contemporary painting commissioned by Sir Anthony Browne sometime between 1545-1548. "The Encampment of the English forces near Portsmouth" was one of a series of five paintings for Sir Anthony’s dining room showing various scenes from his life. Sir Anthony was the master of the Kings horses and is portrayed at the centre of the painting on a white horse next to Henry VIII and Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, Commander of the Land Forces.

The originals were painted on wooden panels and were around 6ft wide, and were unfortunately lost when Cowdray House burnt down in 1793. Fortunately, in the 1770’s the Society of Antiquities became interested in the paintings and commissioned James Basire to make engravings of them on copper plates and the Sherwin brothers to make a watercolour copy. This is why it is now referred to it as the Cowdray engraving. Between 1772 and 1778 Basire had a young apprentice who most likely also helped with these engravings, a certain artist by the name of William Blake. The paintings were probably originally intended to aid Sir Anthony’s storytelling at dinner but it now aids the telling of the story, the sinking of the Mary Rose, and the events of the Battle of the Solent.

 Reference:

Original Victorian Promenade

Sections of Southsea’s original promenade dating back to 1848 have been found during ground investigation works undertaken as part of the Southsea Coastal Scheme. Workers were initially boring holes in a tarmac footpath near Southsea Castle to investigate the depth of the outer edge of the brickwork of the tunnels below when they encountered a stone surface around two meters thick. Further investigation revealed this to be the original front edge of the old promenade. The tunnels beneath the promenade form part of a redesign of Southsea Castle undertaken in the early 19th century that enabled defenders to fire from the moat toward attackers from all sides.

Reference:

South Parade Pier

South Parade Pier was built between 1875 and 1878, at a time when Southsea was a popular Victorian seaside resort. One of its original functions was as a passenger terminal for steamboats to the Isle of Wight.  

In 1904, it was destroyed by fire and was subsequently rebuilt as a pleasure pier which opened in 1908. It had a concrete deck with windscreens on all sides and had a spacious pavilion that housed a 1200 seat theatre and a café that was transformed into a dance hall at night. 

During the Second World War, the pier was requisitioned by the government in preparation for D-Day embarkations. It was partially dismantled and rearranged with scaffolding to accommodate a larger number of troops. 

After the war, it reverted to a pleasure pier and masses flocked to it in the 1950s and 60s to see ‘show biz’ greats. 

The theatre was damaged by fire in 1966 and shortly afterwards removed. The pier was destroyed again in 1974 during the making of the film ‘Tommy’. It reopened in 1975 but in a humbler form than in its heyday.  

References:

Submarine Blocks

When you walk past the pier and look out to sea at a fairly low tide, you will see a whole line of large concrete blocks that extend to around 1.8 meters below sea level and run out to the vicinity of Horse Sand Fort. These submarine blocks were constructed during the Second World War to obstruct any enemy submarines from entering Portsmouth Harbour.

References:

Canoe Lake

Canoe Lake was originally part of the large area of marshland known as the Great Morass. In 1884 it was described as ‘a dismal-looking depression, strewn with rusty tins, mouldy rubbish and other abominations’ (City of Portsmouth Records of the Corporation 1835-1927, 155). In 1884 work was begun to turn it into an ornamental lake and it was formally opened by the Mayor in 1886.

The lake is filled with seawater which is topped up at high tide via a sluice gate and it is now a popular recreational park and swans’ nursery. 

Emanuel Drinking Fountain

The Emanuel Drinking Fountain is located in the southwest corner of Canoe Lake Park. It was presented in in honour of Alderman Emanual Emanuel who was the first Jewish Mayor of Portsmouth in 1849, following his death in 1888. Emanuel a major force in leading improvements for the benefit of the community, such as gas and water supplies and encouraging parks and other recreational spaces.

It stood in South Parade between 1893 and 1934, after which it was moved to Canoe Lake. The Fountain was made by the Coalbrookdale Company, Shropshire to design number 126. 

The bronze statue by John Bell is of the Goddess Temperantia – the ancient Roman goddess who embodies temperance and moderation.  

Pillboxes and Gunplacements

Pillboxes or British hardened field defences of World War II (to give them their technical term) are believed to take their colloquial name ‘pillbox’ from the Pillar Box - red post boxes dotted around the UK.

The Defence of Britain Project estimated that some 28,000 pillboxes and other hardened field fortifications were constructed in the United Kingdom. It is believed that around 6,500 still survive.

The establishment of these defences was all part of the anti-invasion preparation in a military and civilian mobilisation to fortify the coastlines from 1940- 1941.

You may think that one pillbox is identical to another however, there are numerous types many of which have regional differences. 

Eastney Fort

The remains of Eastney Fort lie immediately to the east of the former Royal Marines Museum, though little of the structure remains.

Constructed between 1861 and 1869, it was part of the ring of Palmerston Forts which included the Solent Sea Forts and those on Portsdown Hill. 

It was positioned to flank Eastney Barracks and comprised two openwork batteries with twelve gun positions. Until 1989, Eastney Fort East was used for radar development and continued to be used for military purposes.

References:

Yomper

The statue known as the Yomper, was created by sculptor Philip Jackson and is modelled from a photo of Corporal Peter Robinson yomping to ‘Sapper Hill’ during the Falklands War. It was unveiled by Margaret Thatcher on the 8th of July 1992 and dedicated to all the Royal Marines and those who served with them in the South Atlantic during the Falklands War of 1982. 

Anti-Tank Blocks

When you reach the end of the footpath at Eastney Esplanade and drop down onto the beach, you will see a line of large concrete blocks extending east along the beach.

These are Second World War anti-tank blocks, constructed in 1940 to defend the line between Eastney Fort and Fort Cumberland. The cubes are approximately 1m square and were made by pouring layers of concrete into shuttered forms, made from either wooden boards or corrugated iron.  

Fort Cumberland

Fort Cumberland on Eastney Point, is an angled bastioned fort with a regular star shape with five bastions and a ravelin on its western side and is considered one of the most impressive examples of 18th-century defensive architecture in England. 

The first defensive structure on the site was an earthwork battery constructed in 1716 to defend Langstone Harbour. In the mid-18th century, the Duke of Cumberland (second son of George II) was appointed as military advisor to the Cabinet and conducted a review of the nation’s defences. 

The Fort was designed by John Desmaretz and construction began in 1747. It was built with earth and rubble stone revetting in a star-shaped plan. Gun emplacements were concentrated to the south and southeast on the seaward side, with the projecting points of the star covering all potential blind spots.  

In the late 18th century, Charles Lennox (Master of Ordnance) conducted a further review of defences and recommended a rebuild of the Fort. Work began around 1786 and the second Fort was pentagonal in plan with projecting defensive bastions at the end of each length of curtain wall. It was built with an estimated 5 million bricks and Portland limestone, by a mixture of contractors, and convicts who were housed in prison hulks in Portsmouth Harbour. 

The Fort was transferred from the War Department to the Board of Admiralty in 1858 and the following year it became the temporary headquarters of the Royal Marine Artillery. 

The only time the Fort is known to have been attacked was on 26th August 1940 when it was hit in a German air raid and eight Marines were killed. 

It is now a scheduled monument, managed by Historic England and is not usually accessible to the public, except on occasional open days.  

Other Solent Trails...