Rossbeigh Area Walks

Pebble Beach

Across the sand spit at Rossbeigh large pebble sized material has accumulated. This is a storm beach which forms as this large material is deposited by high energy waves during storm events. These pebbles vary in size and composition but are overwhelmingly sandstone and siltstones of the Old Red Sandstone. These Old Red Sandstones are dominantly purple,  green and grey in colour. 

As these are sedimentary rocks, they were deposited in rhythmic layers as the sediments accumulated over time, with each layer representing a period of geologic time. These fine layers are known as laminations (1st image) and are formed by changes in sediment supply. When these layers are very regular and of similar size it suggests that the sediments were deposited by cyclic events such as during seasonal flooding.  

Bands of white are found across many of the pebbles along the beach. These are Quartz veins (2nd image) which formed as hot fluids carrying dissolved minerals from deep within the earth seeped into small fractures and cracks. As the fluid cooled the minerals gradually solidified, leaving these distinct white bands across the rocks. White pebbles of quartz are also found along the beach.  

Jasper is immediately distinguishable due to its distinct deep red colour (3rd image). Jasper is an impure variety of silica which often forms from the aggregation of sand grains. The red colour of jasper is due to the presence of iron.  

Black Shales are very fine-grained sedimentary rocks which are composed of clay, quartz silt and organic particles (4th image). The black or dark colour of these rocks suggest that they contain abundant organic matter. These rocks were deposited in marine conditions.  

What's in a name?

Rossbeigh, Glenbeigh, Behy River...you must be wondering what these names mean. Ros is the Irish for a hill or promontory that is usually wooded; Gleann refers to a glen or valley; while Beithe refers to birch trees. When you put these together you can imagine the scene around this area when early settlers decided upon these names. A valley with birch woods that also possibly lined the sides of the Behy (Birch) River. Understanding the origin of Irish place names often gives more meaning to a location and may reveal a landscape much different to the present day.  Logainm  is a great website to explore Irish place names and their meanings.

Red-billed Chough

The first thing that might draw your attention to this member of the crow family is their 'keee-aawww' call. The Red-billed Chough is known as a 'Cág Cosdeargh' in Irish which translates as 'red-footed jackdaw' which is a clue to their appearance. As well as having red legs, the chough also has a long, curved, red bill which is uses to probe the ground for food. This is a rare species, only found in certain parts of the west and south-west of Ireland. The cliffs of Iveragh are home to nesting choughs and they can be seen - and heard! - over the dunes and wetlands at Rossbeigh. The National Parks and Wildlife Service are conducting a survey of Irish choughs and you can  contribute your sightings here .

The Sunbeam

In 1903, a wooden schooner named the Sunbeam was wrecked off Rossbeigh. A storm pushed the Sunbeam onshore as she was travelling with flour from Kinvara to Cork, but thankfully no lives were lost. The ship lay on the strand beneath the waves for decades and gradually its skeletal hull was all that was visible, partially buried by the sands and covered by high tides. A photographers dream, a quick search of ‘Sunbeam Rossbeigh’ will fill your screen with images taken by many over the years. 2014 brought a winter of heavy storms to Iveragh and it was Storm Darwin that bore down on Rossbeigh the hardest. The aftermath revealed huge damage to the beachfront – boulders moved, roads uplifted, playground destroyed and the creatures of the seabed thrown onto the beach. The strength of Darwin also lifted the Sunbeam from its sandy grave and pushed it against the base of the sand dunes. Visitors flocked to see the ghostly ship - risen after over 100 years buried. Storm after storm, winter after winter, tide after tide, the Sunbeam’s remains shifted with time and it’s movements are now monitored by the  CHERISH Project .

Mountains

One of the most striking aspects of the physical landscape of the Glenbeigh area is the mountains that stretch along the coastline. At the end of the Carboniferous Period, the Iveragh Peninsula got caught up in a mountain building event which had a profound impact on the landscape. As continental plates collided intense pressure squeezed and compressed the once flat lying rocks and piled them up to form a vast mountain chain. This mountain building lasted from around 318 to 290 million years and is known as the Variscan Orogeny. It was during this event that the east-west oriented fold mountains of the Macguillycuddy’s Reeks were formed and the overall ridge and valley landscape of Iveragh was obtained.  

Following the mountain building, there is a large gap in the geologic record where no rocks have been preserved on the Iveragh Peninsula. Evidence from other areas shows that during this gap Ireland was alternately covered by shallow seas and hot deserts. The next event which shaped the landscape is the Ice Ages of the Quaternary.  

Sand Dunes

Sand dunes are special habitats that are home to unique flora and fauna. Marram grass binds together the sand it captures which helps in the building of dune structures. The grass holds nutrients and freshwater which in turn creates the right environment for flowers such as Orchids (Magairlín). Salt tolerant plants such as Rock Samphire (Craobhraic) and Thrift (Rabhán) are a few of the many species that can be found in these areas. The  Irish Wildflowers  website is a wonderful resource to help you ID some of those you may find in this here. Dunes habitats are very  sensitive to erosion  so please be mindful of this and stick to the main trails. 

Rossbeigh Tower

A tower stood at the tip of Rossbeigh sand-spit for over 150 years, marking the safe passage route through to Castlemaine Harbour. In February 2010, after gradual erosion over the years, the tower finally succumbed to the power of the Atlantic. While the tower is gone, it's memory lives on in the form of a replica which can be seen on arrival into Glenbeigh from the Killorglin side. Built by local volunteers from the ruins of the original tower, this monument is a beautiful reminder of the history of the strong connection between the sea and Iveragh's coastal communities. You can see images of the original Rossbeigh Tower by Iveragh based photographer  Michael Herrmann here .

Castlemaine Harbour

Castlemaine Harbour is the area protected from the brunt of the Atlantic Ocean by both Rossbeigh and Inch sandspits. The area is a  Special Protection Area  and  Special Area of Conservation  due to its critically important habitats and a large host of protected bird species which overwinter here. A number of viewpoints such as the end of the Behy River Walk and the back strand at Rossbeigh are wonderful places to visit from Autumn to Spring. Thousands of wetland birds such as Curlew (Crotach), Brent Geese (Cadhan) and Dunlin (Breacóg) arrive each year to feed and shelter – a truly magnificent sight. Enjoy the sounds and maybe even pick up a bird ID book and really get hooked on the ‘Who’s who?’ game. Read some interesting information on these winter visitors and where on Iveragh you might see them in our  ‘Winter on Iveragh’  StoryMap.

Glenbeigh Community

There are a large selection of walks in the Glenbeigh area and this is down to the hard work of the Glenbeigh community and the cooperation of landowners. Routes are maintained, information signage erected, habitats protected and benches have been provided in some areas. These walks are excellent resources for both locals and visitors. Whether you are looking for some exercise, some fresh air to clear your head or to learn something new about what surrounds you, having such a variety of trails is a treat. You can find out more about community news via  Glenbeigh.ie  or in the wider Iveragh area via the  South Kerry Development Partnership . When exploring these areas it's important to remember to respect that you are passing close to people's homes or crossing their land. Always remember that Iveragh is a home as well as a destination, and  please treat this place with respect .

Riparian Habitat

The habitat around rivers is known as 'riparian' and it is an ecosystem bursting with life. Everything is connected: the water nourishes trees and plants which feed insects which are eaten by birds or fish which may then be eaten by mammals or bigger fish. Vegetation overhanging the water creates shaded areas in the river, ideal for young fish. Shade provides them with somewhere to hide while also keeping the water temperature cool. Colder water holds more oxygen which can be especially important in times when water levels are low during warmer periods.

Trees and shrubs along the river edge not only bind the soil together, and thus prevent erosion, they also filter water run off from the land - capturing sediment which might otherwise choke the flow of the stream/river.

River banks may erode over time due to natural river cycles, but in the meantime they can be home to Otters (Madra uisce), Kingfishers (Cruidín) or Sand Martins (Gabhlán gainimh). Insects such as some mining bee species will collect mud from river banks to build their homes elsewhere. The wetlands attached to rivers are also a great place to look for Dragonflies (Snáthaid mhó). The National Biodiversity Data Centre have some  wonderful swatches  to help you ID a host of Irish flora and fauna. Flood plains surrounding rivers are also a vital protection to the environment during high rainfall. These areas often contain species specially adapted to floods such as Willow (Saileach), Alder (Fearnóg) or the Birch (Beithe) tree which appears so frequently in the names of the region. The National Trust have put together some fascinating information on the value of riparian river ecosystems which you can read  here .

River Life

It’s such a pleasure to sit by a stream. To relax to the sound of flowing water and tune in to the birdsong in the surrounding habitat. There is a certain cast of characters that are more likely to be found by running water – Kingfishers (Cruidín), Dippers (Gabha dubh), Grey Wagtail (Glasóg liath), Spotted Flycatchers (Cuilire liath), Heron (Corr réisc) and Little Egret (Éigrit bheag) are just a few. These birds specialise in preying on the insects in and around flowing waters or the fish which inhabit them. You may be lucky enough to spot an Otter (Madra uisce), either plodding along the bank or perhaps a brief glimpse of their whiskered face peering from the water. Many animals come to streams and rivers to drink so it’s always worth checking sandy or muddy areas for tell-tale tracks and a game of ‘Who’s who?’.

Freshwater Life - Fish

Freshwater fish come in all shapes and sizes, from Minnows (Bodairlín) to Salmon (Bradán), and most of us will only ever experience a brief glimpse of them from the water’s edge. Perhaps a flash of silvery scales or a shadowy dart for cover. I’ve often stood on a bridge watching Trout (Breac) parr from above, mesmerised by the constant effort to steady themselves into the flow of water. Some fish are what we call anadromous, meaning that they can spend much of their lives in freshwater before making certain biological adjustments to survive in saltwater. Salmon and sea trout are examples of such fish. It’s not just the bigger fish that have interesting lives, the humble Stickleback (Garmachán) is just as engaging. The males flap their bodies horizontally to create hollows in the riverbed and arrange pebbles and vegetation with their mouths. They build a tunnel shaped ‘nest’ glued together with a sticky substance they secrete from their kidneys. Females lay their eggs in the most impressive nests and males guard these eggs until they hatch – frequently fanning them with his tail to ensure they have enough oxygen to grow. Amazing! A handy ID for Irish freshwater fish can be found  here .

Freshwater Life - Invertebrates

Freshwater bodies such as streams, rivers, bogs and wetlands contain endless life stories including those of the invertebrates. We can readily see the birds and sometimes the fish too, but what are they eating? Many species of flying insects deposit their larvae in freshwater - where some metamorphose into nymphs- and it’s a hunt or be hunted world. One fascinating example is that of the Cased Caddisfly (Cruimh chadáin) larva - which can be seen in this video. The larva glues tiny fragments of wood and sand into the shape of a wearable tube – a DIY suit of armour. The flying adults that we see are often the briefest moments of their lifecycle as many stay in underwater nymph form for the majority of their lives. You can learn more about life in freshwater in this  wonderful EPA piece by Hugh Feely .

River Processes

Rivers are modern geological agents that mould and shape landscapes. The form of river landforms depends on a number of factors including the properties of underlying geologic material, the duration the river has been active and the location of the river. Rivers shape the landscape through the erosion, transportation, and deposition of materials such as sand, silt and stones.  

Rivers have three stages, the upper course, middle course, and lower course, which each have distinct characteristics and features. The contrast between the upper and lower courses can be clearly seen across the rivers and streams of the Glenbeigh area.

The upper course is characterised by having a steep gradient with erosion dominating over deposition. Features found in the early course of rivers include the river source, tributaries, v-shaped valleys, and waterfalls. Examples of upper stage rivers can be seen along the Faha Wood to Rossbeigh trail. Here two streams flow down the hillslope. The gradients are steep and the channels are narrow. As they travelled, the streams have cut downwards and eroded small steep walled valleys in the mountains side.  

The formation of waterfalls is likely due to the presence of alternating bands of rock which were overturned during the Variscan Orogeny. Although these bands all belong to the Old Red Sandstone formation slight variations in composition mean that some layers are softer than others. The softer rocks are more prone to erosion so the waterfall forms when water falls onto these softer layers. 

The middle course is characterised by having a gentle gradient with both erosion and deposition occurring. Features found in the middle course of rivers include meanders, slip-off slopes, and river cliffs. The area around the Behy Bridge shows a river at its middle course. At this point the gradient is very gentle and the river is wide with large meanders. However, the river still flows quite fast at this point, meaning that erosion is still occurring.

Behy River - Cois na hAbhainn Road

The bridge at the start of the Behy River walks is a perfect spot to look for a Dipper (Gabha dubh).  Dippers  are a truly wonderful bird to watch. Their unmistakable white bib on a dark brown body, which bobs up and down almost continuously, makes them difficult to confuse with any other bird. They will often perch on a midstream stone before plunging into the flow. Watch as the water beads simply roll off their waterproof feathers as they appear to ‘plough’ their way through the shallow water, poking and prying under stones for food. They are capable of diving into deeper pools too and will often re-emerge with a shelled food item which is unceremoniously swung at a rock until the soft contents are revealed and devoured. If you look closely, you may notice that their eyelids are covered in fine white feathers. Flowing water can be a noisy habitat and one theory is that flashing these white eyelids when blinking is an addition in communicating with other dippers - in conjunction with calls and song.

The Kerry Way

The Kerry Way is a 214km walking route taking in many of the upland and coastal trails that loop around the Iveragh Peninsula. Taking up to 10 days to complete the full loop, the trail can be broken down into individual sections that followed old market routes, for trading items such as butter, and mass paths. With the generous co-operation of landowners, access to many stunning corners of the peninsula have been turned into hiking trails by the South Kerry development Partnership with more information  here . A section of this trail passes through Glenbeigh, so the town is a lovely spot to take a break from walking and relax by the sea.

Faha Wood Car Park

A small parking area is located here - ideal for the Behy River Walk, Faha Woods or Glenbeigh to Rossbeigh walks. No toilet facilities are available.

Faha Wood Fairy Forest

Everyone knows how difficult it is to spot a fairy. A quick flash of colour out of the corner of your eye or a distant hint of music on the breeze through the trees might be the closest you'll get. If there is one place where your chances are a little higher it has to be  Faha Wood . With a population of fairies believed to be the largest in Ireland, this woodland trail has everything a fairy could need - woodland birds to sing them a song, views of Rossbeigh and a variety of trees to provide them shelter. Don't forget to look and listen carefully for the birds in the woods too - a bit like fairies, they are shy and sing beautiful songs for you to listen to. You can learn some of  common bird songs here .

Fabulous Fungi

In Faha Wood Fairy Forest, and other woods around the world, a very important part of the ecosystem are fungi, or mushrooms. They have an important job of breaking up fallen trees, branches or leaves into smaller pieces to be absorbed back into nature. This is why you often find them on old, rotting wood. Fungi come in all shapes and sizes so next time you are fairy spotting see if you can find different colour or shapes of fungi. You don't need to touch them, just leave them where they are as fungi are very important to fairies. On a wet day you might find a fairy or two taking shelter under an umbrella-like fungi or having a snooze on top of a pillow-like fungi. Grown-ups can enjoy this mushroom spotting game too – we have some more in-depth info on our fungi  here 

Geological History

The area around Glenbeigh and Rossbeigh is underlain by two distinct rock formations. The hills and mountainous regions to the south are composed of Devonian Old Red Sandstone, while the rocks from the base of Curra Hill are composed of Carboniferous limestones and shales.

The Devonian Old Red Sandstones in the area were deposited from around 385 to 360 million years ago. These rocks consist of many layers of sandstones, siltstones, slates and conglomerates which are generally red, purple, grey and green. During this time Ireland was located just south of the equator and the area was much hotter than today. The sediments which form these rocks were carried down from high mountainous regions in the north by river channels and floods and deposited within an extensive floodplain that extended from Kerry in the west to the Commeragh Mountains in Waterford to the east. The Old Red Sandstones are by far the most common rock in the area, covering almost all of the Iveragh Peninsula.

Towards the end of the Devonian, the coastline was gradually moving northwards across this floodplain and by the Carboniferous period, around 359 million years ago, the area was covered in warm shallow seas. These seas hosted abundant marine life including corals, brachiopods, crinoids and fish. The rocks deposited within this environment were predominantly limestones with some sandstones, mudstones and shales. These were generally deposited in flat horizontal layers on the shallow sea floor.