Escaping the Beltway

The six million and change of us who live in the greater Washington, D.C. metropolitan area know that the District has a lot to offer. From beautiful architecture, to lush parks, to history-filled museums (many of them free!), to a diverse foodie scene, there's no shortage of things to do for the first-time visitor or the long-term resident alike.

Still, sometimes it's nice to change things up a bit and discover fresh places to explore and spend time in. One advantage to D.C.'s Mid-Atlantic location is the abundance of interesting and unusual destinations within a couple hours' drive.

This story offers nine ideas for anyone who's facing an idle weekend and is looking for something new to try within a few hours of the District, at most. Note that these should be taken as rough guidelines and not exhaustive itineraries; you'll need additional curation to ensure a feasible weekend trip and further research to tailor these escapes to your preferences!

As you read through these suggestions, you'll notice some color-coding. Places highlighted in red are towns and neighborhoods of note. Blue text indicates specific historical or cultural attractions, while green text signifies opportunities for outdoor activities.

Note: as of early 2021, due to the ongoing COVID pandemic, many of the attractions mentioned here may be operating under limited hours and/or attendance restrictions, or may be closed altogether. Please check online or by phone with any destination you'd like to visit to confirm their status.

As the nation's capital, Washington is unquestionably steeped in history. However, many history buffs are fascinated by what has taken place in the immediately surrounding region, especially during the American Civil War. A handful of the most consequential locations from the early and middle stages of the war can be seen in one two-day loop.

To catch them all in chronological order, head west from the city to  Manassas National Battlefield  (1), the site of the first pitched battle of the war. Then head up to  Harper's Ferry  (2), West Virginia, which was the site of John Brown's raid that helped spark the war, but also a later battle leading up to Antietam. Today, Harper's Ferry's steep hillside streets are lined with eateries and inns. The C&O Canal Towpath is accessible just across the river via a pedestrian bridge, and several of its crumbling locks are an easy hike upstream.

Next up is  Antietam National Battlefield  (3) itself, outside the village of Sharpsburg, Maryland, where visitors can relive the deadliest single day of the war. Nearby is Shepherdstown (4), West Virginia, a delightful little college town on the Potomac River, home to a  Bavarian-themed hotel and restaurant . Another overnight option is to the north, in Frederick; if you've been efficient enough, there may still be time to stop at  Washington Monument State Park  (5) and climb a tower that predates the renowned D.C. obelisk and offers amazing views of the countryside.

Frederick (6) is a well-preserved colonial-era town that today functions as a bedroom community for the D.C. metro. Its  vibrant, charming downtown  is a great place to eat or stay the night, and hosts a museum devoted to the  medical technology and practices of the Civil War epoch .

Only about thirty miles further up Route 15 is Gettysburg (9), Pennsylvania, where arguably the most pivotal battle of the Civil War occurred, as the Union thwarted the Confederacy's most significant invasion of northern territory in July of 1863. There's a lot to take in around the  National Military Park , but the highlights can be toured in a few hours. For the outdoorsy types, there are a few opportunities in between Frederick and Gettysburg, such as  Gambrill State Park 's (7) Civilian Conservation Corps-built overlooks, or  Cunningham Falls  (8).

Finally, if you're not suffering from Civil War fatigue yet, there's one more battlefield on the way back to Washington that represents an interesting, but little-known chapter of the war.  Monocacy National Battlefield  (10) marks the area where outgunned Union troops managed to delay a last-ditch attempt by the Confederates to capture Washington in 1864 as the war spiraled toward its conclusion. Their actions potentially saved the capital, as reinforcements were able to arrive and mount a stout defense of the city.

This itinerary goes relatively far afield and will appeal strongly to those of outdoor inclinations. It covers a lot of the territory once frequented by David Hunter Strother. A local 19th-century renaissance man, Strother was one of the first people of European descent to document this undeveloped region through his writings and sketches. He often went by a pen name, Porte Crayon, and it was his work that helped catalyze this area's touristic popularity, which continues today.

Start in  Berkeley Springs  (1), West Virginia, where Strother's family ran a hotel in one of the nation's first spa towns, going back to the colonial era. The town can boast that "George Washington had a nice soak here" as a cheeky upgrade on the "George Washington slept here" placards that dot the northeastern U.S. Four full-service spas still operate in the quaint, walkable town.

Next up is the western panhandle of Maryland. Cumberland (2) was once a bustling industrial city. Recently, though, it has capitalized on a prime location at the nexus of two long-distance bike trails, the  Great Allegheny Passage  and the  C&O Canal Towpath , that link Washington D.C. and Pittsburgh. The roughly 30-mile round trip to nearby Frostburg (3) is a doable day-cycle. Upon arrival you'll find an unusual, sloping Main Street and some solid places to eat. And the good news is it's almost entirely downhill on the way back! A less exhausting option is the  excursion train  that runs between the two towns.

Further west in Garrett County is the  Deep Creek Lake area  (4), the locus of an all-weather recreation mecca, this landlocked region's closest approximation to a beach town. Summertime activities include boating on the lake, hiking in several nearby state parks, or rafting on the Youghiogheny River. It's fun in the winter, too, with a major  ski resort  at the northern end of the lake.

Continue into  Tucker County, West Virginia  for more natural wonders. The towns of Thomas (5) and Davis are former mining and logging camps that have evolved into base camps for would-be expeditionists, featuring quirky restaurants, live music venues, and breweries.  Blackwater Falls State Park  (6) is just outside of Davis, and its namesake is accessible via a fairly brief hike.

To the south is  Canaan Valley  (7), the highest valley of its size east of the Mississippi. It's home to a golf resort and more ski slopes, as well as access to the  Dolly Sods Wilderness  (8), good for some real off-the-beaten-path hiking. For those who are into rock climbing,  Seneca Rocks  (9) are a bit farther away but are a remarkable formation whose summit can only be reached via a technical climb.

This route is the one that is most feasible to constrain to a single day trip, and it happens to be one of my favorites. It begins with an excursion to the Virginia side of  Great Falls  (1), an especially unruly stretch of the Potomac River that makes for scintillating views. (The Maryland side is well worth visiting, too!)

Next, you'll cut across the Fairfax County exurbs. If you're already hungry,  Reston Town Center  (2) is a sensible place for a break. Built as the platonic ideal of a 20th-century edge city, it has plenty of spots for lunch or a snack, and its modernity will serve as a stark contrast to the rest of the day's adventures.

The goal, ultimately, is to get to U.S. Route 50. At first, it may feel like an interminable slog through a landscape of strip malls and traffic lights, but eventually the suburban development will give way to a nearly 20-mile length of mostly two-lane bliss that will make you feel as though you've been transported to a bygone era. Starting with the village of Aldie, Route 50 traverses Virginia's prime horse and wine country. The road here is frequently flanked by low stone walls and 18th-century buildings. This was the path of one of Virginia's earliest Turnpikes to the west, and a number of anachronistic taverns still operate along the way.

Middleburg (3) is the most sizable community on this portion of Route 50. Its charming Main Street is lined with boutique shops. For those who are looking to extend this itinerary into a second day, the  Salamander Resort  provides an opportunity to treat yourself to luxurious accommodations and perhaps a massage.

After passing through Upperville (4), another hamlet that seems like it never left the early 1800s, Route 50 reaches Winchester (5). This colonial crossroads town changed hands upwards of 70 times during the Civil War, such was the strategic importance of its location. Today, its  historic Downtown core  features a thriving, four-block pedestrian mall.

It should be noted that Loudoun County has emerged as an epicenter for Virginia's burgeoning beer and wine production. Independent  breweries  and  wineries  have popped up all along Route 50, Virginia Route 7, and throughout the countryside in between. Some are perched on ridges or nestled in hollows, and just finding them is nearly as fun as enjoying the libations they serve (consume in moderation and always, always have a designated driver!). For autumn escapades, lots of farms and orchards offer pumpkin and apple picking, too.

If you do opt to take Route 7 back, you'll pass through Leesburg (6), which is yet another walkable, historic town with lots of restaurants to choose from—and an outlet mall, to take care of your consumer needs while you're out and about.

The Washington, D.C. region is fortunate to have one of the nation's great scenic drives practically in its backyard. A 70-mile trek out Interstate 66 gets you to Front Royal (1), whose wide boulevards, with their smattering of diners and motels, hearken back to the mid-20th century's road tripping heyday.

Front Royal is the northern entrance point for  Skyline Drive , a 100-plus mile New Deal-constructed jaunt that hugs the northern extent of the Blue Ridge as it snakes through  Shenandoah National Park  and intertwines with the  Appalachian Trail . The multitude of overlooks, hiking trails, natural features, and campgrounds along Skyline Drive can, and do, fill an entire guidebook; it's advisable to pick one up at one of the park visitor centers. If you make your trip during the summer high period or peak leaf-peeping season in the fall, be aware that the road can get congested and traffic can move slowly, so have patience!

If you do decide to jump off Skyline Drive at some point, do so at U.S. Route 211 (Thornton Gap) and bear west to Luray. The town itself has some worthwhile businesses and eateries to patronize, but its main attraction is  Luray Caverns  (2), an underground wonder that has drawn gawkers since the 19th century.

Back on Skyline Drive, if you're looking to overnight but camping isn't your thing,  Big Meadows  (3) is almost exactly halfway between the road's northern and southern termini. A series of rustic-styled lodges awaits, along with a dining hall for those feeling peckish from their explorations. Big Meadows is also the jumping-off point for some of the park's most iconic sights.

When the Blue Ridge Parkway ends at Rockfish Gap outside Waynesboro, you have a few possibilities. One is to keep following the Blue Ridge Parkway, which continues another 469 miles and can easily constitute a full, week-long trip in and of itself. But in the interest of time, I'll direct you either east, to Charlottesville, or west, to Staunton.

 Charlottesville  (4) is home to the University of Virginia, so it has a major college town vibrancy going for it. The university campus was designed by Thomas Jefferson and is worth wandering around. A Downtown pedestrian promenade is crammed with all kinds of options for eating and drinking. Just outside town is  Monticello , Jefferson's plantation home.

 Staunton  (5) is less heralded but has its own fair share of small town delight. It hosts the  American Shakespeare Center , which typically puts on live performances of the Bard's work almost year-round, making Staunton a great dinner-and-a-show destination.

The debate rages on: Is D.C. a northern city or a southern city? It's below the Mason-Dixon line, but it shares a lot of urban characteristics with the major metropolises of the Northeast Corridor. Regardless of where you fall in this argument, one thing that's for sure is you don't have to go very far to experience The South.

Richmond (1) was the capital of the Confederacy, but in modern times it's evolved into a well-kept secret of an urban gem that quietly boasts  all of the amenities  of the bigger cities that tend to get more fanfare. It has the requisite arts and culture, including two superb museums—the  Virginia Museum of Fine Arts  and the  Virginia Museum of History & Culture  (2)—in the city's aptly named Museum District. A  science museum  and  children's museum  are close by, too.

Elsewhere, the  Carytown  (3) neighborhood wouldn't be out of place in, say, Brooklyn, with eight blocks of hip and happening restaurants and shops. Richmond has also become a huge player in the  craft beer scene ; the former warehouse district of Scott's Addition (4) in particular has spawned over a dozen breweries and cidermakers.

Richmond's most distinctive asset, though, is in the relationship it has cultivated with its river, the James. While many other cities pour copious resources into developing waterfronts, in Richmond, the river itself is accessible in a way that no other American city is able to replicate. Because it is situated just upriver from the Fall Line, the river is shallow and rocky as it passes through the core of the city. In the summer, as the water level drops even further, many of these rocks are exposed and can easily be reached by hopscotching from one to another. This makes the James River a central gathering place for the city's denizens, like an aquatic park.

If conditions make hanging out in the river unsafe,  Belle Isle  (5) still provides plenty of outdoor recreation in its trails that loop around the island past the remnants of a hydoelectric power plant and a Civil War prison camp.

Civil War buffs can again get their fix by following the final episodes of the conflict. What was effectively the Confederacy's last stand took place less than thirty miles south of Richmond, at the ten-month-long siege of Petersburg. The associated  National Battlefield  (6) is sprawling and complex, much like the siege itself, but one noteworthy site is simply known as the The Crater—the result of an ill-fated Union scheme to detonate explosives in mining tunnels underneath Confederate positions.

Finally, the Confederate forces faced their ultimate defeat while attempting to escape to the west. They were not able to outrun the Union army, however, and Lee surrendered to Grant at  Appomattox  (7) in April, 1865.

The riverine estuaries of Virginia's peninsulas were the backdrop for one of the cradles of European settlement in North America. Visitors to the region today can still discover ample reminders of the colonial legacy.

Stop in Fredericksburg (1) on your way down or back. Situated roughly halfway between Washington and Richmond, it serves largely as a commuter community today, but it retains much of its early 19th-century flavor. Four buildings in particular have been preserved and  operate as museums  that relate their contemporary everyday life.

Make your way south to the Virginia Peninsula, sandwiched between the James and York Rivers. On this spit of land are three major attractions that illuminate different aspects of the colonial era. The three are linked by the Colonial Parkway, a scenic route designed to resemble an 18th-century wagon trail.

First, in chronological order, is the  Jamestown Settlement  (2), a reconstructed version of the earliest permanent English settlement in what would become the United States. Nearby is  Historic Jamestowne , which focuses on the actual remnants of the settlement and the ongoing archaeological efforts surrounding it.

Next up is  Colonial Williamsburg  (3), one of the largest living-history museums in the world. Consisting of 300 acres of restored or recreated buildings, the structures are laid out much as they would have been for most of the 1700s, when Williamsburg was the capital of the Virginia Colony. Costumed reenactors keep in character as you interact with them throughout the historic district.

Finally,  Yorktown Battlefield  (4) represents the last turning point of the American Revolution, where the colonial forces and their French allies laid siege to the encampment of General Cornwallis, ultimately forcing the British to surrender. In addition to touring the battlefield, visit the  American Revolution Museum  for a more comprehensive look at the entire conflict.

Once you've had your fill of colonial experiences, head across the James River to Norfolk (5), which has a long, proud military and commercial history as one of the United States' most important seaports. Today, there's plenty to do in the city. The water-themed science center  Nauticus  provides admission to the USS Wisconsin, a World War II-era battleship that served up through the Gulf War. The  Chrysler Museum of Art  is also worth a look, as its collection rivals those of art museums in bigger cities, and it offers free admission to boot.

Or, make your way up to the Northern Neck Peninsula and Reedville (6), from where you can embark on a  ferry to   Tangier Island  (7). Tangier is a place that truly feels as though time has stopped. Its relative isolation through many generations has led to its residents speaking a completely unique dialect of English. Automobiles are rare on the island; most dry-ground transportation happens via bicycle or golf cart.

This itinerary through Southern Maryland consists of a lot of the same types of things that you might find in some of the others—history, hiking, beaches, small town charm—except at a much more low-key scale, with fewer fellow tourists to have to share them with.

It starts in  Annapolis  (1), which can get crowded during certain times of year, especially on the weekends. Its warren of narrow, brick-paved streets and alleys make it a wonderful place to explore on foot. Once you've covered every inch of its historic core, the  U.S. Naval Academy  also permits a surprising degree of roaming after passing through a security checkpoint. When your feet are too sore to continue, find a spot to gawk at all the luxury megayachts and ramshackle sailboats alike as they pass through Annapolis Harbor. If you happen to be stopping by between late August and early October, the  Maryland Renaissance Festival  (2) isn't far outside town and is always a great source of merriment and people watching in a 16th-century village situated among shady groves.

For some sun-and-sand relaxation, head south to North Beach (3). This beach town in miniature comes complete with a small sandy strip on the Chesapeake, a short boardwalk, a fishing pier, and the requisite seafood joints and ice cream shops.

Further down the Calvert Peninsula, things get even quieter and more rural.  Calvert Cliffs State Park  (4) offers hiking trails through a marshy landscape before ending at a stunning vista of cliffs along the bay. Solomons Island (5) is a laid-back former shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Patuxent River, featuring an impressive  maritime museum  and numerous bed and breakfasts and restaurants overlooking the water.

Cross the Patuxent into St. Mary's County, which was the colony of Maryland's original landing point, in the 1630s.  St. Mary's City  (6) consists of an open-air museum with many structures reconstituted to resemble their 17th-century forms. Its educational attributes are similar to those at Colonial Williamsburg, only without the throngs.

At the very tip of St. Mary's Peninsula, where the Potomac River flows into the Chesapeake Bay, is  Point Lookout  (7). The eponymous state park offers trails, fishing, a small beach, and, in the warmer months, a  ferry to   Smith Island  (8), another mostly traffic-free island that time forgot in the same vein as Tangier (see previous section).

There's something special about crossing the Bay Bridge. Navigating the unnervingly narrow lanes of its hulking twin spans can be a white-knuckle experience for motorists, but the reward is free rein over the Eastern Shore, where life seems to slow down. Where to go once you've safely touched down on Kent Island at the eastern foot of the bridge depends on what kind of vibe you're interested in.

If you're really looking to escape to a place where you won't be found or bothered, you'll want to head north to Chestertown (1), a sleepy, historic college town. Nearby Rock Hall (2) is about as low-key as a beach town can get before it stops being a town altogether.

Farther south, in Talbot County, are the haunts of the rich and famous. In the county seat of Easton, the upscale vacation home domain of St. Michael's (3), or Tilghman Island's more secluded version of paradise, you're liable to rub elbows with big-shot politicos and their ilk.

Continuing on U.S. Route 50 toward the coast, you'll pass right by three more small towns that are each worth checking out in their own right. Cambridge (4) fronts the Choptank River and is close to  Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad National Historical Park  (5). This attraction commemorates the life of the remarkable woman who grew up enslaved in the area and, after escaping, devoted the ensuing decades of her life to helping other slaves achieve freedom.

Salisbury (6) features a downtown built around a canalized portion of the Wicomico river, and also a  free zoo . Berlin (7) was named  "America's Coolest Small Town"  by Budget Travel in 2014 for its charming, walkable, Victorian-era core, littered with architecturally notable structures.

Many people, though, just want to make a beeline to the beach; again, there is is no shortage of choices. If you're looking for a more lively scene that can even border on raucous,  Ocean City  (8)'s high-rise encrusted sprawl occupies over two-thirds of a 12-mile-long barrier spit. During the summer, its popularity is such that it temporarily becomes Maryland's second most-populous place after Baltimore. At the opposite end of the spectrum, you can reserve a camping space on Assateague Island (9) via the  State Park  or  National Seashore  and perhaps encounter the famous feral ponies that inhabit the completely undeveloped island.

Delaware's main beach towns—Rehoboth, Dewey, Bethany—fall into more of a "Goldilocks" zone of having all of the typical beach town accoutrements without being as crowded or wild as Ocean City. Rehoboth (10) is the biggest of the trio. One advantage to staying in Delaware is proximity to the  Dogfish Head Brewery  (11), one of the largest craft beer producers in the country. Their outdoor patio includes lawn bowling and a "Steampunk Treehouse" that make it a fun place to hang out even for those who aren't necessarily interested in beer.

City lovers who have seen most of what D.C. has to offer are in luck: Baltimore is just 40 miles up the road and offers a distinct urban experience all its own. Though "Charm City's" reputation has been shaped by film and television that portrays it in a less than flattering light, it still has its share of thriving neighborhoods and worthwhile attractions.

Most Baltimore tourism is centered around the Inner Harbor (1), a commercial development encircling the Downtown inlet of the Patapsco River. It is credited with being an early model for how cities could reimagine dilapidated waterfront areas.

A pedestrian promenade extends from the base of Federal Hill Park in the south to Little Italy in the east. Along the way, it passes a plethora of (mostly-chain) dining options, an indoor shopping center, the  Maryland Science Center , and the Inner Harbor's most famous attraction: the  National Aquarium . Camden Yards (2), the home of the  Baltimore Orioles , is only a few blocks west of the Inner Harbor. It's a true gem of a ballpark and a wonderful place to spend a summer evening. Another area that's popular with tourists is Fell's Point (3), about a half-mile east of the Inner Harbor. This historic shipbuilding neighborhood is one of the city's prime nightlife spots. Its cobblestone streets are lined with restaurants and bars, many of which host live music.

Federal Hill (4) boasts a food hall in a  historic marketplace , and its eponymous park provides a panoramic vista of Downtown and the Inner Harbor. History buffs will appreciate  Fort McHenry  (5), the site of the War of 1812 battle that inspired Francis Scott Key to pen the words that would eventually become the "Star-Spangled Banner." Canton (6) has a lot of the character of Fell's Point, but with a less boisterous atmosphere. Mount Vernon (7) is one of Baltimore's old-money neighborhoods. Grandiose homes and a  world-class art museum  are blended with a youthful vibe, thanks to the presence of the University of Baltimore and Maryland Institute College of Art.

These core neighborhoods and attractions can all be easily accessed via either the (free!)  Charm City Circulator  bus network or the  Water Taxi  system.

A little further out from Downtown is Druid Hill Park (8), an oasis of green with miles of paths and trails centering around a manmade lake. The  Baltimore Zoo  is also located within the park. Nearby is Hampden (9), a quirky business district with unique eateries and shops.

The periphery of the city has some places worth checking out, too.  Ellicott City  (10) is a one-time railroad hub with a long, sloping Main Street known for its antiques shops. It's flanked by two portions of  Patapsco Valley State Park  (11, 12), whose trails follow the once-industrially active river valley. On the complete opposite side of the city, it takes some doing to find  Fort Howard Park  (13), but the eerie remnants of its turn-of-the-20th-century battlements make it worth the detour. Adjacent  North Point State Park  (14) has a small beach, plus trails through wetland areas once occupied by an amusement park.